LFW February ’15, Day 4: The FAULT AW15 Daily Edit
The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Fashion Week. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram
Erdem
Erdem is one of our go-to labels for opulent and luxurious British-inspired design. Always heavy on the craftsmanship with stunning details and unusual, intricate needlework, there’s always something to be found that resonates within FAULT’s aesthetic.
This season the 50’s were directly referenced within the set design and dresses made from brocade, ruched tweed, shiny silk and trimmed with oriental, floral fabric sashayed down the catwalk. Pieces of note were the caped dresses, the hardy winter coat deftly merging into a green silk evening coat and the exquisite cut-out lacework dresses in bold jewel-toned hues, instantly demanding to be made into a red carpet moment.
Patterned details on dresses were formed but with some distressed edging and loose, frayed seams, continuing well from the previous seasons influences. Overall an ‘undone’ but structured feel reigned the Erdem catwalk, less serious than last season yet still tailored, fitted and immaculate on presentation. Shapes were more on the modern side, with the pattern and the embroidery referencing the historic influences that Erdem favours and simple shapes allowing the embellishment to do most of the talking.
Christopher Kane
Sex was on the menu at Christopher Kane for AW, but not any type of sex, this season Kane gave us ‘Lovers’ Lace’. Inspired by the team’s recent life drawing classes. Sprawled and intertwined bodies were depicted across panels on dresses with zigzags and slashes of skin representing the ‘electricity’ of intertwined bodies and the frisson of a lovers liaison.
Colours were rich, dark, and luxurious with flashes of bright metallic colour and red lining on some pieces to loosen up the more structured styling of the suits, the pencil skirts and the more structured dresses.
Complicated, yet wearable and innovative, Christopher Kane gave us another season of all that we love about the designer, being able to surprise us, catch us off guard and yet remain of interest to both the buyers and the fashion press.
Peter Pilotto
Connect Four, Snakes and Ladders and Ludo were the fun board games that inspired this sophisticated Peter Pilotto AW15 collection, that was anything but childish. Slicked hair and orange eyeshadow walked the catwalk to video game infused house that, throughout, constantly reminded us of the inspiration for this collection. White, brown, green and blue were clashed with neon’s against black thigh slit midi skirts and high neck jumpsuits that really looked like a 90’s video game screen.
The final dress was everything a final dress should be, it pulled together the elements seen previously in the collection and added even more wow to an already incredible show. Halter-necked with a cut out triangle on the chest, pinched at the waist with a contrasting brown and an orange paint stripe across a full skirt; this piece was like a bonus life in the board game inspired show.
The clever play between colour, textiles and shape created a collection that once again proved that Peter Pilotto is one of the most stand out designers at London Fashion Week. The playful element to the collection was fun and spirited, showing the scope in appeal of this collection; we can envisage it on any woman and especially ourselves!