LFW February ’15, Day 3: The FAULT AW15 Daily Edit
The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Fashion Week. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram
Vivienne Westwood
The Vivienne Westwood show had a wearability that reflected not only the streetwear influence that has always permeated her label, but also referenced sportswear. Light fabrics, jumpsuits and shorts, gym socks, racing stripes; through day and evening looks there was an ease to the silhouette and cut of this collection. The models walked with ease (not always the case with Westwood past, cc: Naomi ’93) and though always heavily layered, this season’s looks consisted of separates that would actually make sense beyond the eccentric intricacy of Westwood’s famous assemblages. Prints were as strong as ever, and especially sharp- thick geometric prints veered between sleek athletic modernity, and of Mother Nature; exotic animal prints, kaleidoscopic nature patterns and at one stage, peacock feathers. The show notes voiced Westwood’s support for the Green Party, reiterating her stance against our current consumption, and this aesthetic nod to the environment was a charming and surprisingly restrained way of expressing her ever-present political chagrin.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Dark romance was the theme for this year’s collection by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for Preen with the designer duo setting out to give the 70s hippie chic an urban update.
Lose, boxy shapes were dominant in this AW season with an element of attempted juxtaposition throughout. The success of contrasting silhouettes and shapes usually relies on matriculate tailoring, something that was slightly lacking in the season’s Preen show for me. However, the recurring pop colour through many of the collections pieces made the collection feel colourful despite the dark base of most pieces. Personal favourites were the blue floral dresses at the end of the show as they posed an interesting contrast to the rest of the collection and felt distinctly summery despite being part of an AW collection.
Overall the collection felt a little too full of ideas – Thornton and Bregazzi in the past have proven to be not only full of ideas but also to be able to throw a lot of different ideas into a collection. However, this season it felt as though the pair had trouble changeling their ideas into clear and coherent silhouettes and colour pallets.
With a brand spanking new creative director in place the expectations for Mulberry’s AW15 collection were certainly set high. With Johnny Coca arriving at the English fashion house in July the Mulberry design team took inspiration from English manor houses of the Georgian era. Mouldings, stuccos and architectural decorations acted as the basis for prints and embroideries with a recurring theme of neo-classical filigree motif used throughout the collection.
Once again the house emphasised their love of artisan craft as they have in the last year, showcasing their artisan works at festivals such as Wilderness. The intricate details and sharpness we saw this season further showed Mulberry’s approach to their collection through artisan craft.
Mulberry also took the opportunity to showcase their newest bag: The Roxette. Seen in an aray of colours and different kinds of leathers, the bag certainly has the appeal of sturdy yet delicate kind of companion that Mulberry has done so well in the past. This season was a big departure from what we saw last season and it will be interesting to see how the brand takes shape under its new creative leadership.
David Koma
Known for his bold, geometric designs and architectural shapes paired with body con shapes, David Koma has well and truly perfected through the seasons. With 60’s style shifts, leather separates and cut-out, form fitting jumpsuits, the David Koma woman looked badass. Gothic Barbie seems to be a strong new direction for him, with delicate flared sleeves, saucy top to bottom zippers and sheer panel details, oh and the ultimate bed hair. I really want to be a David Koma girl #justsaying
Issa
Jamie O’Hare’s debut collection for Issa was a fairly rock n roll inspired affair, all cutout panels, jacquard animal prints, draped fabric and fringing, man there was a lot of fringing! Whilst being fairly reminiscent of designs put out by Cavalli, Ford and McCartney, the collection was still polished and totally commercial. Gorgeous prints, a heavy use of black and white with pops of red, blue and yellow and draped fabrics, the collection retained the signature Issa look but a sexier new direction with O’Hare at the helm. With subtle cutouts, sheer yet strategically placed panels, and that generous fringing all protecting your modesty, it’s just the kind of outfit your mum would approve of.
Matthew Williamson
There were more than just stars on the front row at Matthew Williamson as he showcased the aw15 collection inspired by the signs of the zodiac. A fuchsia satin blouse and electric blue satin dress were embroidered with gold zodiac symbols and a heavily embroidered blue evening gown featured mystical swirls amongst the glittering beadwork.
It wouldn’t be a Matthew Williamson show without some bright, feminine prints and we weren’t left wanting. Next season’s offering includes a purple leopard print jumpsuit, maroon pegged trousers with wispy botanical flowers in marigold and sky blue and the same floral design in varying shades of red on an evening coat with fur trimmed sleeves and a floor-length evening dress with thigh high split.
Also taking inspiration from 70’s bohemian silhouettes, maxi length skirts and dresses billowed around the models’ legs and button-through styles added to the sex appeal.
We think the vibrant colours, dashes of regal gold and roaring leopard print will most appeal to Leos next season!
Temperley
Make way for the African Queen of Temperley London next season! Glamorous, flowing evening looks came in burnt orange, bronze, yellow, white and black in distinct African prints. Animal print-like chevrons and thick rows of triangles, diamonds and circles were seen on contemporary culottes and long, flower trumpet shape skirts and an armadillo skin gold jacket all made for a refreshingly luxurious take on the theme.
Long, skinny evening scarves matched each outfit in print and fabric and provided a seamless link between the African-inspired styles and the 1930s concept that ran throughout as well. This came in the form of dainty, flat slipper shoes, double-breasted black jumpsuits, spaghetti strap, sequined evening dresses and velvet art-deco shapes on chiffon dresses.
Tunics and suit jackets were smart daytime pieces but, as usual, Temperley’s evening looks are some of the most covetable around.
Topshop Unique
This season Topshop Unique had a distinct feeling of ‘posh’ about its collection. Creative director Kate Phelan showed us what she thinks the well-bred (and the not so well-bred) countryside-moved-to-London Chelsea girls of 2015 should be wearing: clean, sophisticated, tailored dresses, pants and skirts teamed with big knits, fur and feathers and pieces of leather. The thistle and dandelion prints that weaved their way throughout the show were unusual and interesting while still echoing the privileged upbringing of the Topshop Unique girl.
The collection felt slightly safer than previous seasons as well as a lot more grown up. More importantly Phelan’s latest collection had that essence of cool that only English party girls seem to possess; the ability to just get out of bed, run their fingers through their hair, touch up their mascara and throw on the first thing they see, seemingly without a care in the world. Cara and Kate are the prime examples of this quintessentially and apparent laisse-faire attitude that you cannot buy, one is simply born with it. Now for AW 15 you can attempt to at least look the part, even if this means spending a good amount of time looking like you just woke up like this.
Phoebe English
Dust sheets in the corners and wires around the walls, the BFC presentation space became the perfect showcase for the Autumn/Winter collection of designer Phoebe English. Serious and smoky; this season the Phoebe English girl is not to be messed with.
The looks were monochromatic and intricate with layers of shrimp netting, tulle and PVC that created a killer collaboration of textiles. Oversized hoodies and shiny worker boots were made feminine with black hair gems and sequin trimmings.
Collars up and hair pinned the Phoebe English Autumn/Winter 15 collection is all about the details in the construction. The most iconic of the designs were the mesh trousers that amplified the vast amount of construction and creation thatPhoebe English never fails to bring to her work.
Translucent netting created looks that were like real life fashion x-rays. A collection infused with a dark confidence, Phoebe English confirmed once again that her widely recognised talent is always moving in the right direction.
Pringle of Scotland
A brand with over 200 years of heritage that is rooted within every collection, this season Pringle Of Scotland provided a collection that was contemporary and minimal. Whilst not breaking boundaries this collection may break the bank, we predict that sales of this collection will be high. The usual autumnal colour palette of navy’s, greys, burgundy’s and nudes was used to create a collection providing stylish basics and classy staples that have the ability to add finesse to every woman’s wardrobe.
Embossed leather, suede, lace and mohair were amongst the textures intertwined to create pieces that showcased the high design capability of the brand. An interjection of leopard print and sheer knitted skirts added an underlying sense glamour and allure to an otherwise casual chic show, showcasing the brands ability over the years to provide pieces for every one of their loyal customers.
This artisanal collection was modest and clean, and a representation of PringleOf Scotlands place within the industry. Would we wear the collection? Hell yes.
Jonathan Saunders
Jonathan Saunders’ newest collection can probably best be describes as bright and beautiful. His technicolour AW15 collection once more shows of the Scottish designer’s love of colour and might also be a reflection of his current mood having recently secured a nice backing of a private investor to further expand his ready-to-wear line. Other designers might have struggled mixing and matching colours the way Saunders did, but you can tell that he has had a lot of practice in experimenting and playing with strong colours.
Graphic shapes and patterns mixed with precise tailoring gave the pieces a certain raffinesse while leaving us with a distinct feeling of the fun and funky 60’s. Teamed with knee-high laced boots the Saunders’ woman is both confident and outgoing, as she certainly wouldn’t go unnoticed. I loved the accessories, the nude lace-up boots in particular, that accentuated the pieces throughout and. Overall the collection certainly reflecting Saunders’ theme for this season: Joy and optimism.