LFW February ’15, Day 1: The FAULT AW15 Daily Edit
The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Fashion Week. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram
J. JS Lee
JJS Lee’s signature tailored minimalism took a distinctly cosy turn at the label’s aw15 catwalk. Whilst sticking to the skinny silhouettes and clean lines, a mixture of textures came into play including shearling, quilting and rib knits. Models were cocooned in jumpers with over-the-wrist sleeves, padded high-neck tabards with open backs and long, wrap over coats.
The show played an homage to designer Jackie JS Lee’s playful childhood through exaggerated gathers of fabric on trouser waists, pulled together with string-thin cord and rough, scraggy patches of Mongolian fur on collars. Adding to the Seoul-born designer’s tomboy inspiration point, each model sported an unkempt, boyish black crop.
The predominantly black and grey colour palette was a metaphor for the protective shadow that her supporters have offered her while the drops of sunshine yellow and rosé blush on satin dresses and blouses reference the designer’s favourite colours as a child.
The show was a heartfelt homage to how far the designer has come in the five years since founding her label as well as presenting an edgy, unkempt twist to pieces that still remain smart and wearable for the business-minded woman.
Eudon Choi
A continuation of the themes in his ss15 collection, Eudon Choi’s American West girls were more glamorous, tough and modern than the prairie girls of last fashion week. With flattering flared trousers, asymmetrical leather jackets and models shrouded in tasselled scarves, these were sophisticated cowgirls on the go who strutted out confidently.
The second half featured jewel coloured satin dresses in mid lengths and boxy fits for a strong evening look. A nature theme arose with circular panels and exotic sunset colours of fuschia, golden yellow and black which was distinctly Asian in feel.
Block contrasts were present again this season from black backs of trousers with ditsy floral print fronts to large black pockets on midnight blue coats and suit jackets with a check print that stopped at the waist and a block yellow half below.
Eudon takes a more womanly approach for the colder seasons and offers fashion forward power dressing with his starchy eveningwear and talent for tailoring.
Bora Aksu
Bora Aksu enticed us this season with layered frills, intricate needlework and craft-heavy designs, which floated down the catwalk in inviting shades of mauve, lilac, pale blue, black, navy and forest green. The collection this season, focuses on love, romance and all that this entails with a familiar nod towards Oscar Wilde’s ‘The Nightingale’.
It’s good to see a designer playing to their strengths and Bora Aksu stands firm to their in-house style of craftsmanship, giving their designs a classic timelessness. Favourite pieces for AW were a long, sheer embellished black dress, which practically levitated down the catwalk in exquisite dreaminess and a pretty sheer, dusky blue dress. Bora Aksu is the perfect label for the girls who still believe in true love, magic and fairytales and it’s easy to find all three wearing one of these delicate dresses.
FELDER FELDER
From black lace to colored fur, Felder Felder offered a dynamic AW15 collection. At first, romantic lace and leather inserts emerged on the catwalk, creating a very gothic vibe. Sheer fabric revealed the body in a delicate way, while skirts and dresses fell right under the knee. One would expect this austere look for fall, but that is not what twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder had in mind for the rest of the show.
Instead, they startled us with shades of navy, red and blue along with plunging necklines and shorter hemlines. The most daring looks were made of a bright metallic fabric, which was used to create a long sleeveless gown reflecting the spotlights. In the end, the bold furry coats added just the right touch of glamour that Felder Felder has gotten known for.
Daks
From clothes to accessories, the color red poured on Daks’ AW15 collection. Creative director Filippo Scuffi chose hats, bags, tights and shoes in a vibrant shade of cherry red to match with his new fall prints. Squares and flowers added a fun twist to the monochrome looks, all while staying in the color palette of red, black and beige. First seen on socks, these colorful prints were also spotted on dresses and jackets.
Rich of a brilliant fashion heritage, the fine tailoring of Daks is known to be impeccable. The AW15 collection makes no exception with coats, blazers, pants and leather jackets gracing the runway with elegance in shape, structure and composition. Scuffi was able to create an interesting opposition of light fabrics and strong materials such as leather and velvet. Military hats and belts at the waist accentuated this powerful representation of men and women throughout the show.
Jean-Pierre Braganza
Gothic glamour was on the agenda at Jean-Pierre Braganza in moody black, aubergine, sage and oxblood. Mirrored Aztec-style prints were mysterious and engaging and stripes of varying widths framed curves in a hypnotic way. Skirts were mostly kept at midi and maxi lengths for dramatic effect and paired with leather gloves.
Eye makeup was almost demonic with black eyeliner above, on and underneath the eye and a streak of red eye shadow at the top of the cheek. Hair was plaited with wisps floating loosely.
Beware the Jean-Pierre Braganza woman.
Paul Costelloe
Paul Costelloe‘s collection for A/W 2015 was deeply entrenched in history and drama; entitled ‘Jewels in the mist’, thick textures and rich colour combined with peaked silhouettes for a certain Elizabethan vibe. Collection notes made reference to Costelloe‘s time spent in Corinaldo, the home of the Renaissance painter Raphael, and there was an Italian heritage to the quality and luxury of the looks, aligning textile history with the bouffant and bling of Italian fashion today.
The weight of wool, tweed and knit was balanced by flashes of vibrant colour- fuchsia, citrus shades, emerald green and prints that shimmered, catching light and billowing around the models in fluted sleeves and hemlines.
Overall, a cohesive collection that balanced bursts of energy with a solid tone, triumphing tradition and history over innovation or experiment.
Fyodor Golan
Fyodor Golan did not disappoint us this season with a heady, mind-altering collection inspired by ‘My Little Pony’, their visits to Hong Kong, China & Shanghai plus some floral influences thrown in for good measure. Taking us on a wild, hallucinogenic trip through the designers minds the AW collection features a play on texture, colour and silhouette. With the brands signature bold dresses and some strong print, this collection was on point for their usual style and vibe, yet feels a lot more wearable, edited and refined than past seasons.
Showstopper pieces included a pale pink shiny embellished dress, a neon green jacket / skirt combo and the trippy ‘My Little Pony’ tunic worn casually over a pair of nude pvc trousers. Accessories were on-point also, with to die for stacked neon heels and plasticky neon and nude gloves adding to the layered up, mulit-texture look. You might never want to wear Fyodor Golan in the daytime or be able even look at it with a raging hangover, but my god you’ll want to be decked out in this whilst having some nightime fun – the collection demands it.
Sass & Bide
The Sass & Bide AW15 collection was all about the glitz and the glam! Shimmery fabrics mirrored the brightness of the room while gold and silver ornaments caught the eye – almost like a disco ball. The use of metallic embroidery enhanced skirts and dresses with a beautiful sparkle; a technique reminiscent of brands such as Balmain and Versace. If most of the collection was black and white, a hint of electric blue was enough to add more drama. The AW15 season was also the occasion for creative director Anthony Cuthbertson to play with volumes and lengths, juxtaposing form fitting dresses and oversized coats or long hemlines and shorter tops.
Without a doubt, the Sass & Bide woman will look fierce next fall with a wardrobe full of glamorous – and shiny – pieces.