Alexander Mcqueen

 

From electric blue and military green overcoats to floral jacquard blazers, Alexander McQueen’s AW15/16 collection is bold, sharp and marvellously ‘mod’.

Silhouettes are quintessentially tailored. Hair is slicked into a side parting and wide pinstripe trousers are cropped, emphasising black stacked patent shoes. A patchwork of the patriotic words ‘honour’, ‘truth’ and ‘valour’ adorn select pieces, whilst double breasted jackets feature jewelled octagon stars like medals of honour.

Peonies are a particular motif for Sarah Burton this year, echoing the British legion’s iconic poppy. Heavy turtle neck jumpers feature peony embroidery, whilst navy six-button suit jackets are detailed with a silk peony trimming. McQueen continues to refine the male form and ultimately, never fails to impress.

-Sophie Hutchings

 

KTZ 

How does a renowned streetwear brand incorporate tailoring into their AW15 collection? They draw inspiration from A Clockwork Orange and add their own edge such as bowler hats made from leather with a cap fastening and plaster monochrome suits with patches including sinister hand prints and a portrait of Chairman Mao. We were more than a little surprised to see tailoring at KTZ but it just proved to show Creative Director Marjan Pejoski’s versatility and his ability to turn everything he touches into the coolest thing you’ll see all season.

Soon enough though, the runway filled with Marjan’s more typical styles: oversized parkas with Inuit-inspired fur trimmed hoods, mosaic-tiled hoodies and black fur jackets with animal bone designs carved out in white fur. The English gentleman theme returned at the end with black leather capes, like a gritty Sherlock Holmes, defining this as a collection that was full of ‘characters’.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Moschino

 

We thought Christmas had been safely put to bed for another year but then we arrived to the Alpine set of the Moschino AW15 show. Snow dusted fir trees filled the centre of the room and as the music went up, fake snow flittered down from the ceiling.

Unsurprisingly what followed were yeti boots, puffa jackets and shaggy fur coats and accessories, all with the Moschino touch of course. Electric blue and orange was mixed with metallic silver, fur came in clashing Dalmatian and zebra print and suits featured blue, yellow and red tartan all at once. There may not have been as heavy a dose of the shock factor as Jeremy Scott has a tendency for but of course it wouldn’t have been Moschino without a heavy dose of sex appeal. Ripped models strutted out in just y-fronts and a jumper or topless underneath their jackets. Accessorising the chalet-chic outfits were coonskin hats, long fur bed caps, ski goggles and snow boots.

It’s set to be the stand-out style on the slopes next winter.

-Olivia Pinnock