Alexander McQueen 

What does the theatrical Alexander McQueen have in store for spring/summer 15? Floral meets bondage meets Aztec meets East Asia. Not quite sure how that would look?

Florals came as large narrative prints spaciously decorating dresses. There were also the overly romantic evening dresses with tiers of ruffled silk with delicate fabric flowers sewn down it.

By contrast, the black latex face masks and gladiator heels worn by the models and the thick black leather harness straps brought the macabre edginess we all love from McQueen.

The lace-up boots, whilst working with the erotic theme, also helped set the scene for Aztec influences. Grids of circular motifs looked like ancient symbols and mosaic tile maxi skirts and capes tapped into the theme too.

The distinct reference to Far East culture came in the bold red, white and black colour palette and the stylisation of the floral prints. Mandarin collars also featured as did tightly belted waists on flat-collar jackets which hinted at an attempt to appeal to the brand’s wealthy Asian following.

Despite the jumble of apparent influences, this was another strong and dramatic collection with lashings of leather and quirky prints that softened the effect to avoid looking severe.

 

Iris van Herpen

Forget ‘what’s in’ ‘what’s hot’ and what’s the latest trend, Iris van Herpen is in a league of her own. The only trend she’s concerned with is technological ones that can help her to create something new and extraordinary.

There were some very wearable pieces such as a structural power jacket that stuck out from the waist, a distressed denim-effect mini dresses with a flipped up collar and a black jumpsuit with a plunging neckline and embellished waistband but that’s not why you go to the Iris van Herpen show. You go for the alien-like blue metallic cage dress and the 3D printed, interlocking fabric that created a chainmail effect on cocktail dresses, cap sleeve jackets and a sleeveless shift dress with exaggerated hips and a waving hem line. You go for the finale dresses that, surrounded by coral-like structures, looked like living organisms.

It was typically other-worldly, typically Iris, and yet every season she gives us something to gasp about and applaud her genius as an architect of fashion.

 

Saint Laurent

Slimane appeared to have created a new subculture at Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 15 show. The uniform is a cross between rockabilly neck ties and pop prints (cherries, leopard print, stars), biker chick leathers and black sheer tights and hipster kid pork pie hats. They flaunt their long legs in ultra-high hemlines and have no qualms in taking necklines down to their navels either. They show-off their youthfulness. They clash multiple prints and mix every texture going – sequins, leather, denim, lamé, suede and fur. Platform sandals are the footwear of choice.

This collection is begging to be adopted by the hippest new poplings and given a soundtrack to complete the cult. Their style may be difficult to imitate but they’ll have everyone trying.

 

Sonia Rykiel

Next season, Sonia does boho as the Parisian label sent tiered maxi dresses, denim jumpsuits and fur gillets down the runway at Paris Fashion Week. There was a heavy dose of ‘free love’ too with sheer babydoll dresses, bandage crop tops and studded leather jackets, miniskirts and belts for a sexy twist on the daydreamer vibe.

Street style favourite culottes were also key from tailored brilliant white pairs to functional khaki and denim. The dungaree-style jumpsuits will be a hit with the office-to-bar crowd but we’ll be leaving the comeback of the poncho on the shelf.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney presented ribbed knits, parachute material jumpsuits and pyjama two-pieces in what was a rather cosy collection for spring/summer 15.

In a loungewear-friendly palette too of white, nude, navy and black, more structured elements included oversized buckle straps, cut-out oblong and semi-circle shapes on the décolletage, midriff and calves and exposed zips on lightweight jackets and coats.

Bedtime checks on shirts with matching palazzo trousers and sleeveless spring dresses with scoop necks cemented Stella’s place as the queen of nightwear as daywear yet again this season. A flurry of fine, silky dresses in a jumble of mixed prints with butterfly shaped panels closed the show for a new element to the collection to complete a 360 wardrobe for relaxed yet elegant style next season

Sacai

Sacai infused lace, prints and pleats into a utilitarian uniform for spring/summer 15 presenting the tough woman who isn’t afraid to use her femininity. Boxy silhouettes, breast pockets and large black buttons complemented the military-like khaki and navy ensembles while asymmetrical side splits in skirts added a feminine touch compared to the rigid, high collars and blunt, short sleeves.

Skirts were given delicate lace trims or sheer pleated panels juxtaposing the tough, practical fabrics. Warrior-like blue tartan also made an appearance, as did the modern office-workers battle uniform – pinstripe. Aggressive touches like the Mongolian fur lined leather jackets and feet laced up in open platform sandals make the Sacai woman an intimidating force to be reckoned with and she has a killer wardrobe to match.

 

Words: Olivia Pinnock