LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (4) SS15
Mulberry
Mulberry’s country garden inspired collection had us buzzing about their beehive of hexagon laser cuts and prints entwined with photographic flower prints. Mannequins amongst an abundance of vases filled with native English flowers and foliage displayed the muted colour palette for next season of black, stone and sky blue. Fine leather skirts and jackets kicked out at the knee and waist gave curves to an otherwise slim collection. Of course Mulberry’s real lust-worthy USP is their bags which are much daintier to complete the gentrified outfits for SS15 with snakeskin and weaved details in a clutch size with slim, metal chain handles.
Michael Van der Ham
With a collection dedicated to the late Louise Wilson OBE and his first foray into accessories with shoes and sunglasses, the Spring Summer 2015 collection from Michael Van der Ham certainly didn’t disappoint. Multi layered textiles, heavy beading and embroidery and clashing prints all showed off Van der Ham’s signature design aesthetic. The collaboration with Lunettes Kollektion included mirrored round sunglasses with scalloped embossing, and are guaranteed to be a sure fire hit with fashion and music’s coolest kids.
Using a colour palette of grey, navy blue, royal blue, lilac and ivory with pops of coral, the embroidered fabrics were created in silk organza and georgette with metal hammered bullion, frayed and shredded georgette, cut work edged with silver thread bobbles and lurex fringing appliquéd onto tulle. Voluminous necklines and shoulders were shown along side asymmetric hems on skirts and dresses, and high waisted trousers, shorts and skirts.
The juxtaposing sleek and voluminous silhouettes were paired with custom platform loafers in brick red, powder blue, black patent and silver and pink jacquards all featuring ruffle detailing, and are certain to be a commercial success when launched.
Christopher Kane
For SS15 Christopher Kane presents… the vamp. Always a popular designer at celebrity parties, wevthink the A-listers are going to be all over this collection for their next champagne-fuelled evening of Mayfair debauchery. Black and oxblood satin dresses were constructed with sheer panel midrifts and multi-straps which gave a cut out effect. Rope prints draped down sheer midi-dresses and leather sleeves and trousers hinted at fetish-wear without being risqué while tulle rara skirts were girlish without being cheap. A very stylish medium.
Burberry Prorsum
The impact of Christopher Bailey’s dual role was evident in the Burberry Prorsum SS15 show. Inspired by “The Birds and the Bees”, the collection was thought to evoke memories of a summer day, with sheer tulle dresses tied with fabric swatches or pair with paired with waspy waist denim jackets; flat shoes in the form of trainers and leather sliders, just the kind of shoes you could run through a meadow in; small bags casually draped across the body; it all felt very safe and commercial, every piece masterminded to be a financial success as a CEO would demand. Yes there were some pretty pieces, the raw edged tulle dresses were flattering but lacked excitement. Bailey’s creative mind came into play with the stunning finale of hand-printed trench coats emblazoned with stunning vintage book cover designs and butterfly prints, in a riot of glorious technicolor. The impact of a parade of models in the rainbow prints was powerful and for that the show was stunning.
Peter Pilotto
Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto are always renowned for their stunning signature digital prints, however recent shows have somewhat lacked freshness. For SS15 however, in using simple A-line shift dresses and uncomplicated silhouettes, they allowed what they are best known for, the complex engineered prints and incredible mixed media embellishments to take centre stage.
Inspired by hippy acid-trips, flowers prints set within organza were overlain by trippy neon shapes, plastic thread was woven into lace and covered with naive paisley shapes, and the signature Pilotto digital prints were replaced with bold, graphic stripes. Overall the result was an exciting, creative and highly desirable collection, the boys did well!
Tom Ford
It’s going to be a long winter with a number of designers making tough black, sequins and leather a key part of their collections right into spring and summer next year. Tom Ford’s 70s rock ‘n’ roll themed collection was in on the trend and oozed sexiness with crotch-skimming miniskirts flashing the model’s hold up stockings and metallic brocade flares flicked over sky scraper platform heels.
Ironically, nipples were not on the menu for the vagabond designer as strategically placed sequins added a minimal amount of modesty to sheer tops. Even the maxi skirts couldn’t resist flashing a little flesh with splits up to the mid-thigh. As ‘Addicted to Love’ strum out for the models to stomp along to, their wild-child outfits, shaggy hair and thick kohl eyes sent a clear message: don’t fuck with a Tom Ford woman.
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