NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (1) SS15

Friday 5th September 2014

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at New York Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen

Nicholas K

Explorers, nomads and warrior women trekked the desert landscape of Nicholas K’s Spring/Summer ’15 collection. Setting the tone with Mideast beats and bass, the brother-sister design duo, lured viewers into the Sahara with pieces that could be movie inspired straight out of Dune and Riddick.

True to their signature style of ease and accentuated drama- the collection flowed with layers of lightweight fabrics, utilitarian silhouettes and earth coloured tones. Structured jackets in black and khaki, were detailed with leather buckle closures and wide contrasting pockets. An olive colored coat, with black long sleeves and funnel collar added interesting volume and proportion.

Blouses hung with ease, below the waist with twist front draping. They were paired with shorts and pants, that were cuffed above the knee in silken fabric with side slits. Short dresses in camouflage and olive, were loosely belted and accessorized with oversized hoods, scarves, or fringed shawls wrapped around the waist.

Fitted black leather shorts, leggings with leather knee pads, and lace-up stilettos by designer Kiyoon Baek- added the extra edge the collection needed. A stand out piece was an embellished black mini dress, that shimmered at first to resemble glass or metal vials attached, turned out to be made of pens. Not sure why you need pens in the desert, but vials full of scorpion venom would have captured my warrior imagination better.

Nicholas K continued to showcase their strong point of draping and merged successful luxe aspects from prior seasons with their signature style to create a refined collection that is sure to satisfy their customer base and add new fans.

-Maria Lau

Jay Godfrey

For Spring 2015, designer Jay Godfrey was inspired by the Western frontier and delivered a collection that rock ‘n’ roll devotees would feel comfortable wearing on a prairie, or in the city.

His presentation at the Hudson Hotel was accompanied by live music immersing drumbeats and guitar riffs that electrified the space. The collection was a departure from his signature sexy graphic style, and showcased new silhouettes and fabrics. Updating the American look, there were country western blouses with see-through lace skirts. A beige fringe poncho with quilted metallic pants, added movement and accentuated texture to the collection. Denim was incorporated in a fitted body conscious dress, or in a long quilted skirt with high slit. Lace made a delicate statement in the dresses and skirts, while a more voluminous tea-stained hilo skirt brought prairie drama to the mix.

Rock ‘n’ roll made an raucous appearance in a fitted animal print tuxedo jacket and pant. While the true collection standouts were the black and white chevron sequined pieces. A cropped tuxedo jacket and cigarette pant, and a head turning, low V fitted gown that only the most statuesque dare wear.

All creatives know that risk doesn’t always bring reward, but this collection by Jay Godfrey proves change can be refreshing and little wild.

-Maria Lau

Tadashi Shoji

A New York fashion week veteran, and one of the few creative minds whose designs become key red carpet looks season after season, Tadashi Shoji’s Spring/Summer ‘15 collection packed an evening wear punch. Directly influenced by the overall vibe of the historically rich city of Venice, the collection’s outstanding use of lace and tulle, mirrored the poised nature of the Italian women Tadashi presumably sought to emulate. While most of the looks were within a colour palette of cream, mauve pink and royal blue, one mustard coloured cape dress with midriff cutouts particularly stood out; not only as the last garb to grace the runway, but also for its uniqueness as an imagined award season look.

-Shammara Lawrence

Desigual

Desigual SS15 collection was all about fun, vibrant colors and bold prints. For this collection of an astounding 57 looks, French fashion designer Monsieur Christian Lacroix takes inspiration from South American mixed with Mediterranean motifs with warm, tropical colors and strong geometrical prints.

Noted supermodel Adriana Lima opened the show with her hair crowned in a floral bouquet wearing a loose-fitted floral Hawaiian print top with black keyhole and shorts in die-cut floral print. Here the models weren’t afraid to have a bit of fun and be flirtatious with the crowd. Celebrities including Rosario Dawson, Poppy Delevigne, and Olivia Palermo was front row for the show.

-Nancy Lu

Chromat

Chromat is a New York based swimwear and apparel line that is heavily influenced by architecture and futurism. The show started off with a bang as a gorgeous plus sized model opened in a retro-inspired black two-piece bikini underneath a large caged boustier. The variation of silhouettes within the swimwear ranged from strappy two-pieces to a black neoprene one-piece with multiple cut-outs, and white piping. The swimwear looks were modern and the caging effect enhanced the garments as they created new shapes that made each suit stand-out from the one before it. I was also impressed by the accessories offered in the collection. There a was a range of caged cuffs,and even a few masks that were styled well with the swimwear.In addition, Chromat showcased several dresses which stemmed from the modernism of the accessories and swimwear. The use of neoprene with the sculptural cages contributed to a very strong brand point-of-view which allows Chromat to stand-out amongst the crowd.

–Sophie Gray

Meskita

Alessandra Meskita’s Spring/summer 2015 collection is an ethereal combustion of feminine sex appeal, angelic dreams and defined structure. She has managed to create fluid-like movement out of the sheer, metallic, accordion pleats that made up the “wings” of her collection. Against the grain of using draping to create flow and movement, Meskita’s collection drew hard lines along a woman’s body to define her every curve, while maintaining the mystery of a wood nymph.

Almost every piece in her collection shone in gold, pink or silver, with a rare pop of reflective pastel. The innocence of the colors played on the goddess theme of ancient Greece, while the proposition of feminine attraction shone in flashes of skin. The seductiveness of the waist, back, legs or chest was never lost, and yet each piece managed to evoke almost fairy-like innocence. A collection that capitalizes on feminine beauty and confidence while never losing sight of the magnetism that awakens the male psyche.

-Shaliz www.glamourhouse.com

Zana Bayne

What first struck me while I was waiting for the Zana Bayne presentation was the crowd of fashion elite who were in attendance. Celebrity stylist Johnny Wujek air-kissed with industry professionals as fashion blogger Susie Bubble shuffled in while anxiously awaiting the start of the presentation. All of whom quickly ran to their seats as the lights began to dim. Zana Bayne is best known for her aggressive S&M inspired leather accessories; although her SS15 presentation titled “Moon Bathers” offered a softer and more romantic point-of-view. Many of the harnesses and boustiers were adorned with crystals, leather star cut-outs or other feminine details which romanticized the severity of the strong leatherwork. Pieces were in a variety of colors including black, white, creme, and gray leather; styled on top of an oversized stark white button-down. In addition, Zanapresented many different latticed gowns, which were complemented by dainty umbrellas, or soft leather turbans. Zana has developed quite a following over a few short years and her transition to a feminine more romantic side was well received by even the most harsh of fashion-critics.

-Sophie Gray

Buy FAULT Magazine’s Latest Issue Here

Subscribe to FAULT Here