With NYFW in full swing, we’ve edited and rounded up FAULT‘s fashion shows of note from the NYFW Fall/Winter (or AW ’14 to us) ’14 collections. Pay attention as we give you the lowdown:

Prabal Gurang:

As one of the most standout collections of NFW this season, Prabal Gurang’s inspiration drew deeply on the visual elements of his homeland, Nepal. The models walked zen-like past huge gongs with flushed ‘straight from the himalayan mountains’ cheeks and deep centre partings inspired by the local Nepalese women. Featuring beautiful draping, complex layering, twisted seams and ‘wrapped’ fabric details in rich hues of red and orange in the same shades of Tibetan monk robes, the collection was full of meaning and depth. Some black, grey and unexpected prints were thrown into the mix also, to create a striking  multi-faceted set of looks. Although Gurang is usually known for his statement dresses, it was actually the knits that got us the most excited, I wonder if the monks realise what trendsetters they are? We can’t wait to see what he creates next.

 

Rag & Bone:

It’s always exciting to see the Rag & Bone show and to see what they’ve been motivated by season by season. This time there was a ‘back to basics’ feel, which translated itself in rough textures, plaid, silky shell-suit style tops, pinstripe, paint splatters and texturized rough-looking fabric. This was a uniform of sorts, but not all that easily defined, more a contrasting selection of various ‘working’ uniforms that needed further investigation to be understood. It was an intriguing display using subdued ‘muddy’ colours, greys, navy, khaki, grey, black and brown off-shot with vivid orange, that to me, references a fast food restaurant. I’m not sure if I’ll be rushing to the shops to buy this for myself, but as with all collections that throw you a little off-balance, they usually end up being a big commercial hit. It really feels that this season, there are designers striving to ‘keep it more real’ or at the very least to be inspired by real life, gritty scenarios.

 

Suno:

This was an unexpected hit for us, but Suno’s AW14 collection left us wanting more. Emerging as a truly inspiring brand, this latest collection was inspired by some found photographs of a Roma gypsy camp just outside of Bucharest. We see the Soma girl transform from the early 90’s through to 2006 in a selection of outfits that echo the passing of that time. From raw and undone styles to looks featuring rich embroidery, metallics and clashing pattern, with some loose referencing to tailoring. The collection managed to remain pulled together with the strong boots featuring a strip of metal. A clever idea to to keep each look consistent and to anchor the mix of looks firmly in the present.

 

Thakoon:

 

Just when we thought we had AW sussed out, Thakoon threw this eclectic collection into the mix. Bright florals, unusual layering, shrunken poncho’s, then layers of knitwear plus capes mixed in with tailoring. This colourful collection commanded attention with it’s vivid colour palette and experimental layering. Favorite pieces were a slouchy nude-toned suit, a clashy floral bomber jacket and the blue polka dot suit worn beneath a coat-length bomber jacket. Genius.

Keep updated here for more of our NYFW Fall collection updates from the Editors at FAULT Magazine.

Stay updated during LFW via twitter @FAULT Magazine @RachelvHolland

READ THE REST OF OUR ROUNDUPS FROM NYFW:

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Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

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