Magliano FW24 at Pitti Uomo 105: A Fusion of Rebellion and Classicism
Luca Magliano, the Bologna-born designer, returned to Pitti Uomo 105 as the honored guest designer for Fall/Winter 2024, showcasing a collection that reflects his growth, maturity, and a profound connection to his roots.
Held at the Nelson Mandela Forum, a grand venue in Florence, Magliano’s show was a cinematic affair, with models emerging from clouds of smoke and descending the arena’s grand staircase. The set was designed as a “device of strain and an impromptu occasion for glamour,” reflecting Magliano’s metaphorical exploration of political dynamics.
For FW24, Magliano explored the classic shapes of menswear, infusing them with doses of femininity to appeal to a broader demographic. Powerful women like feminist poet Patrizia Cavalli, Italian actress Anna Magnani, and German artist Hanne Darboven inspired the collection, and their strong portraits mirrored Magliano’s commitment to inclusivity on the main stage of menswear.
The designer’s interpretation of the concept of ‘classic’ leans towards an extended feminine form. “Being at Pitti means reflecting on the idea of classic, and our take is feminine, a sort of new neutral that belongs to gay identities and to queer culture,” explained Magliano. The cuts are deconstructed, rearranged, and transformed into new-age classics, challenging fashion’s binaries.
Collaborations played a significant role in the collection, with Neapolitan-shaped suits hand-sewn by Kiton and eccentric headwear by Borsalino. Magliano emphasized the collaborative nature of the line, stating, “It’s about starting a cultural conversation with people that don’t see things like you. You have to look for a common ground.”
Overall, Magliano’s FW24 collection is intellectual, insurgent, and ironic. It seamlessly blends formality with messiness, expert tailoring with artistic undone elements. The collection proudly embraces the hardships of the queer community and takes a futuristic approach to categorical clothing, exemplifying the essence of Magliano’s distinctive style.
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Read our review of Todd Snyder Fall Winter 2024 – A FAULTLess Triumph at Pitti Immagine Uomo 105