Author: Mix Cacho-Negrete

Image Credit: Umberto Fratini/Launchmetrics

Andrew Curwen’s inaugural NYFW show started off shrowded in darkness, with eerie music playing all around. As an attendee, I immediately felt on edge. Like something bad was going to happen. 

Suddenly, models started pacing around the giant runway, which was in a warehouse – nearly all of them in black, with dramatic, ghoulish makeup. And if not that, then makeup that resembled a crow on the move (literally complete with feathers coming out of model’s heads). 

Curwen’s NYFW debut did not disappoint. The craftsmanship was on display, through tight, detailed corsetry, gigantic ruffled tops, and leather high rise micro bottoms. The collection also wasn’t overpowering in number. There were probably under twenty looks but each one had so much thoughtfulness from head to toe. It really felt like Curwen made dark, witchy, Victorian-garb wearable. 

One element that stood out to me was Andrew Curwen menswear. Yes, his corsets and dresses for women were great, but his menswear was incredibly innovative. There was one gigantic coat with boxy shoulders that looked straight out of Jacob Elordi’s closet. Another look featured a sheer, distressed crop top with a web-like pattern throughout. And there was even a black strapless corset paired with handless leather gloves that was absolutely spectacular. His menswear felt like a risk with a gothic twist. It was really exciting. 

But more than the clothes, the show made it clear that Andrew Curwen has such an undeniable, confident identity as a designer. When interviewing him after the show, he shared how inspired he is by the horror genre. He also emphasised that when it comes to his storytelling, he’s not only thinking about humans wearing his clothes. He even explained that an unexpected scream that happened in the middle of the show (which shocked us audience-goers…just like in a horror movie!) I was pleased to learn just how much thought Curwen put into this show and collection – and how he’s really thinking differently from many of the other designers out there right now.

For someone so early on, I was incredibly impressed with his commitment to the Andrew Curwen world. I look forward to seeing more of him…and plan to be a little scared when I do.