10 FAULTless Collections from Berlin Fashion Week 2023

Berlin Fashion Week 2023 Review

Image: Caroline Kynast

Words: Miles Holder

Berlin Fashion Week 2023 is where the fashion world converges to witness the most exciting collections and emerging trends. This year’s event showcased a plethora of talented designers, each bringing their unique vision to the runway and proving themselves truly FAULTless. From bold and sophisticated ensembles to minimalistic elegance, these top collections left a lasting impression on attendees, fashion enthusiasts and of course, us! Check out this list of the 10 FAULTless Collections from Berlin Fashion Week.

Berlin Fashion Week 2023 Editor’s Pick

ODEEH 

ODEEH, the Berlin-based fashion label, delivered a captivating show with their bold and sophisticated collection but who are we kidding, we love them EVERY BFW . The standout feature of the show was their exceptional use of bold colours, prints and sequins to add a FAULTLEssly striking element to the overall aesthetic.

ODEEH’s clever use of print further elevated their collection, resulting in a visually unforgettable lineup of looks from full print design suits, to kimono-style tops and a devilishly captivating printed jacket and shirt combo pictured below. The styling of the collection seamlessly incorporated a mix of fabrics and patterns, creating a dynamic yet cohesive visual experience throughout the whole show. The result was a collection that exuded elegance and experimental flair, striking a delicate balance between traditional and avant-garde fashion.

The ODEEH brand, founded in 2008 by Jörg Ehrlich and Otto Drögsler, embraces a rare atelier tradition. Their dedication to craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail is evident throughout their collections and their openness to international collaboration, grandiose colour scheming and all round love of what they do, made this showcase truly FAULTless.

Litkovska

While a difficult show to report on from the overcrowded sidelines of the bustling Kraftwerk Berlin, Litkovska’s designs pushed through and presented one of the standout collections of the entire Berlin Fashion Week. The power, strength and resilience reflected in each look served as a powerful reminder of the designer Lilia Litkovska’s commitment to drawing attention to the plight of her homeland, Ukraine. This collection not only showcased exceptional craftsmanship but also embodied the beauty and stories of her heritage.

The collection featured beautiful silhouettes that were expertly crafted through the impeccable tailoring skills of the designer. The stylist’s ability to layer various materials and textures while also maintaining coherency throughout the collection was another highlight of the showcase. The collection is incredible diverse, drawing inspiration from different sources while still keeping Berlin at the heart of the clothing. It was evident that the designers put great thought and intention into each piece, resulting in a captivating, thought-provoking and FAULTless show.

Danny Reinke

Danny Reinke’s latest collection, “LUSTGARDEN,” showcased at the Berlin Fashion Week 2023, was a mesmerising display of fashion inspired by the triptych “Garden of Earthly Delights” by Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch. The collection exuded a utopian dream-like atmosphere, depicting a love paradise where positive emotions carry the essence of sexuality. It successfully played with contradictions while symbolising gluttony and lust prevalent in today’s society.

The eclectic range of textures and tailoring in the collection made it truly captivating. From minimalist oversized suits in womenswear, menswear printed with bold patterns to glittery ensembles, the designs constantly changed direction, yet each piece was expertly crafted in accordance to a uniform standard of excilence. Reinke’s meticulous attention to detail was evident in every garment, ensuring a high standard of craftsmanship and despite the avant-guard inspiration, the clothing remained always accessible.

Among the standout looks, a belted trench coat adorned with brooches caught the eye, blending elegance with an edgy twist. A men’s crochet shirt featuring a vibrant floral pattern, paired with a woven clutch, created a unique and stylish combination. Additionally, a lavender sheer dress stood out as both alluring and sophisticated, leaving a FAULTLess and lasting impression on the runway.

Acceptance Letter Studio

Acceptance Letter Studio seamlessly blended varying cuts of clothing, resulting in a beautifully cohesive and captivating display. The collection exuded a sense of fun and reminded the audience that fashion should be enjoyable as well as wearable. The comfortability of the garments, particularly the flowing trousers and belted shorts, made them perfect summer staples.

Designer Jakeyoung Shim’s anthropological approach to fashion design added depth and historical context to their creations, while their dedication to creating garments that people feel great in enriched the wearer’s lives. ACCEPTANCE LETTER STUDIO’s commitment to challenging industry norms and fostering a positive impact was commendable, making their designs resonate with those who value both style and values-driven fashion.

Marke

Marke’s presentation at Berlin Fashion Week showcased a stunning collection that seamlessly blended minimalistic design with exquisite tailoring. The collection’s muted colour palette allowed the impeccable cuts to shine through, resulting in a collection which leaned heavily on the designer’s attention to detail and skill. The addition of illustrated bags added a delightful touch to the overall presentation and impressed onlookers.

The standout feature of the collection was undoubtedly its emphasis on minimalism without sacrificing style or interest. MARKE’s designs demonstrated that minimalistic fashion can be far from boring, and instead can exude a sense of timeless elegance.

Designer Mario Keine drew inspiration from a process of self-reflection, particularly reminiscing about childhood fascinations and interests that still subconsciously shape his design process. The presentation of the collection was enhanced by a volumetric art installation created by set-designer Yannic Hohaus, accompanied by animations from 3D artist Mara Rudnick and a sound concept by Robert Eisinger.

MARKE’s presentation at Berlin Fashion Week 2023 was a testament to the brand’s ability to create minimalistic designs that captivate and inspire. With their emphasis on sophistication, attention to tailoring, and commitment to sustainability, MARKE continues to make a mark in the fashion industry as a brand that values both style and ethical practices.

Esther Perbandt

Esther Perbandt’s fashion show at Berlin Fashion Week was a captivating display of all-black minimalism. The collection, titled “Concrete Jungle,” showcased the designer’s strong lines, intricate tailoring, and beautiful minimal designs, bringing a touch of classical inspiration into the modern day. The show was a true reflection of Berlin’s fashion landscape, incorporating whimsical headpieces, balloons, and a live performance to create an unforgettable event.

The collection’s versatility was evident, with looks that explored gender norms and challenged traditional fashion boundaries. One standout ensemble featured a leather-belted women’s suit and a gentlemen’s vest and kilted trousers look. The collection proved that minimalistic design can be far from monotonous, emphasising the brand’s dedication to making sophistication a staple in everything they do.

Esther Perbandt, known as Berlin’s queen of black, has made a name for herself with her interdisciplinary approach to fashion and her distinctively black collections. Her fashion show presentations are renowned for their performative and captivating nature. In 2020, Perbandt gained international exposure as a finalist on the popular designer casting show “Making The Cut,” where she showcased her talent under the mentorship of Naomi Campbell and Heidi Klum and with their dedication to sophistication and versatility, Esther Perbandt continues to solidify their position as a force within Berlin’s fashion scene.

Bobkova

BOBKOVA’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection, showcased at Berlin Fashion Week, was a stunning display of beautiful tailoring and elegance. The collection featured oversized suits, muted jumpsuits, floral print playsuits, and matching sunglasses, showcasing the brand’s versatility and strong styling skills. Each look exuded a sense of minimalistic sophistication, with standout pieces that left a lasting impression.

The collection drew inspiration from Ukrainian gardens and the designer’s love for gardening, reflecting a sacral attitude towards nature deeply rooted in Ukrainian culture. The colour palette ranged from subtle tones such as vanilla, milky lime, dusted rose, and blush to bold and fresh colours like lavish green and sunny yellow, reminiscent of Ukraine’s landscapes.

BOBKOVA’s conscious approach to fashion production was evident throughout the collection with all garments being produced in Ukraine, with a focus on up-cycling to minimise waste.  

The Spring-Summer 2024 collection perfectly captured the essence of strength and femininity while trouser suits with oversized shoulders, paired with wide-legged or fitted trousers, showcased both comfort and style.

Each piece showcased the brand’s dedication to minimalistic design, impeccable tailoring, and sustainable practices, solidifying BOBKOVA’s position as an influential force in the fashion industry.

LML Studio

LML Studio wowed the audience at Berlin Fashion Week with their latest collection that perfectly blended strong silhouettes and whimsical patterns to deliver a fun yet still high fashion collection. The show was a delightful combination of performance art and playful fashion, showcasing the designer’s ability to capture the essence of Berlin while adding modern touches to the aestetic.

The collection exuded a distinct Berlin aesthetic, with nods to the city’s vibrant and eclectic style. Classic Berlin signifiers were cleverly incorporated into the designs, giving the collection a sense of authenticity. At the same time, the designer pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion, infusing the collection with playful elements that brought a sense of joy to the runway.

Among the standout pieces were flowing wide-legged trousers and sleeveless waistcoats, adding a touch of sophistication to the collection. The use of whimsical patterns and unexpected details created a visual feast for the eyes, showcasing the designer’s creativity and attention to detail.

LML Studio continue to display their creative vision and dedication to sustainability with every collection – this showcased both their impeccable craftsmanship and design sensibility and we’re extremely excited to see what’s next to come.

Rebekka Ruétz

Rebekka Ruétz’s collection at Berlin Fashion Week 2023 was a regal display of confidence and impeccable tailoring. The combination of leather and royal-inspired designs created an undeniable aura of strength and elegance. As the diverse lineup of models graced the runway, it was clear that Ruétz paid homage to the classic Berlin aesthetic while also offering a glimpse into the evolving modernity of the city.

The collection, titled “sæla” meaning lucky-se-lucky in Icelandic, captured the essence of fortuitous circumstances and enveloped the audience in a mystical cloud of charisma. With a total of 35 looks, including striking X and H silhouettes, Ruétz catered to the “modern Amazons” of today. The runway was set to a mix of film music and female power rock, creating a powerful and empowering atmosphere.

Ruétz’s collection showcased her keen eye for tailoring and her ability to blend traditional influences with contemporary elements. Each piece exuded confidence and looked effortlessly at home within the Berlin setting. The collection was a testament to Ruétz’s talent for capturing the spirit of the city while infusing her own unique vision.

Haderlump Atelier Berlin

Haderlump Atelier Berlin once again proved their impressive talent with a standout collection at Berlin Fashion Week. This season, they showcased their best work yet, featuring a range of eye-catching designs from slit cut blazers to flowing patch-quilted jackets, dramatically cropped t-shirts to expert leather work, every piece in the collection arrested our attention.

The collection was characterised by striking silhouettes that exuded confidence and style. Despite the bold designs, the womenswear still maintained a sense of femininity, demonstrating Haderlump’s ability to blend edginess with elegance – a much needed to skill in order to get the “Berlin look” right. Each garment was meticulously crafted, showcasing the brand’s commitment to quality and ethical production.

Haderlump’s dedication to sustainability is evident in every aspect of their brand. All products are designed and handmade in their Berlin Atelier, allowing for a deeply personal touch in every piece.

The name “Haderlump” pays homage to the rag collectors of the past who saw value in what others deemed worthless – a sentiment that dear to the designers who themselves find beauty in the discarded. All in all, this collection once again proved why Haderlump Atelier Berlin are one of the most exciting design teams in Berlin right now and we’re excited for what comes next.

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