LFW SS18: Day Three
Mary Katrantzou
To kick off Sunday off, an ‘idealised infancy’ was the theme running through Mary Katrantzou’s SS18 collection; a bright nostalgia trip that anyone from the 80s could understand. Colour-block panelling stood sharply against a backdrop of paint-by-number florals, iron-on Hama beads formed Katrantzou’s signature intricate digital designs and sequinned Lego block skirts matched perfectly with lace up jelly shoes. It was as if the she made her inner child to design this collection, only with the added feminine, athletic silhouettes.
Balloon hems and sleeves added volume to each piece, whereas sporty windbreakers, racer backs and scuba tops punctuated with toggles and go-faster stripes gave it that athleisure look and feel. In a world where we’re technology by tech, Katrantzou grounded herself in her childhood and revisited the building blocks that tasked her creativity.
Chalayan
Living in today’s digital age, everyone is entitled – the notion of self worth has become a concept directed by the opinion of others. Blank post-it notes were dotted on dresses and models circled the space wearing sheer veils and sunglasses – a reflection of how consumers miss out on the exchange of digital information.
As with every season, Chalayan’s SS18 collection was all about clean lines and linear silhouettes. Master of tailoring, this collection had asymmetric folds, abstract construction and a nod to the 80s power shoulder, only smoother for the modern age. This neutral show had splashes of sunshine yellow and demanding red; on the back of the checked blazers the fabric darted out like a cape, a playful way to add some volume. Ditching the runway, this felt more like an artistic exhibition; a breath of fresh air and a sideways step from commerciality.
Emporio Armani
For the reopening of the Emporio Armani Store in New Bond Street, London, only a spectacular show would do. Walking down the runway in a soft palette of purple, pink and blue, sheer pastels, this season’s show was a total celebration of femininity. Models stormed down clad in sea life prints in candy-striped colours, which transcended to a heritage series of tight blazers and loose tailored trousers with a sports-luxe feel – the outfit we’ll be styling into next season. Punctuated metallic trousers and devoré tops, this playful collection undoubtedly got everybody’s heart racing. Thoughts? It kind of felt like we inhaled a pastel explosion, oh and the checked out two-pieces were the things that every cast member of Clueless would thank you for.
Margaret Howell
Margaret Howell did was she does best and this season focused on proportion, bringing imagination and styling to the most humble of clothing. This contemporary collection was slightly reminiscent of school children’s uniforms, taking inspiration from utilitarian pieces and proving that fashion should equal functionally. With hair and makeup like blank canvases, models strode the runway in checked shirts, knee length of course, and black buckled shoes. The silhouette was simple with boxy-sleeved shirts worn under lightweight duffle coats, just with a sporadic oversized collar or wide trouser leg that attracted the eye as if breaking the school dress code. The collection was monochromatic apart from the flash of khaki that coloured the intermittent showing of socks and light knitted tops. However the reintroduction of boxers and bermuda shorts paired with navy blazers were worn by both men and women, blurring the boy-girl-boy format that you used to find in school.
TOPSHOP
There was an undeniable party mood dancing around in the air at the SS18 TOPSHOP show. Inspired by the brands muse Kate Moss (who sat front row) and 90’s nightlife, each piece in the collection clashed in a truly fantastic way. Retro sliver mini dresses were styled with not much else, while snake print tops sat undress yellow lemon suits- right out for a music video. Texture played a hefty role as the models were draped in faux fur coats and pink satin bomber jackets. Leather trousers in shades of blue cleverly contradicted beaded tops and burgundy ruffled dresses, somehow all expected on the dance floor. The show closed with a glamorous parade of double denim, each model with a spray painted t-shirts with their name. This season’s concept of personalisation is available with the brands ‘see now buy now’ ethos at flagship stores, so we can all finally dress like we are in a modern day remake of clueless.
Versus
Donatella Versace took to the archives to inspire millennials this season at the Versus show, with an eclectic mash up of western boots, frayed jackets and bucket hats. The female models black eyeliner was rebelliously smudged and the men carried over sized bags with graphic logos printed in an unavoidable font. Sharp black matching suits were lined with red piping and low-slung trousers resurfaced with cowboy style belts. The print of the season was a thin tartan that covered tight mini skirts and shorts, only to be interrupted by the interjection of hot lime green that coated bags and shoes, creating a wardrobe for stylist rebels everywhere.