LFW SS18: Day Two
JW Anderson
For his eponymous SS18 collection, JW Anderson drifted away from the rigid format of his usual shows and turned to a setting that went back to basics. The guests sat on chairs coiled around a stripped-back rustic installation that translated through to the tone of the clothes too. This collection was a stark contrast to JW Anderson’s previous, more abstract shows, instead, this season everything was so much more simple and wearable.
They came in the form of towel-textured dresses, minimalist two-pieces, deep V-necks and peek-a-boo detailing that reflected a state of undress. As well as cropped bardots, bralettes molded around the breasts – a decon-recon look that portrayed the plainest form of the art of construction. Keeping in line with this earthy palette, stripes ran vertically down the body ensuring this was the designer’s most wearable collection yet. And what was held under each models’ arm? Oh, next season’s ‘it’ bag, of course.
Markus Lupfer
Maybe the city actually takes a snooze whilst the girl never sleeps, ever thought of it like that? Markus Lupfer has. This collection was made for the woman addicted to her social life; too busy to sleep and with enough off-kilter glamour to practically be a part of old-Hollywood. Bold pinks, popping blues and jungle greens, psychedelic 3D florals, rainbows, butterflies and prints of monkeys swinging from tree to tree – it really was a collection to get lost in.
Living every minute in HD, models donned print-heavy blouses tucked into poolside hot pants and black sheer acted as an outer layer over skirts to add a slice of naughtiness. Hems were cropped to the calf to show off ballet-wrapped ankles, and models reclined on print-packed chairs donning huge sunglasses as if they were about to catch a tan – in their hedonistic-fuelled lives perhaps this was the only moment they could rest their eyes. With the world constantly shifting around us, Markus Lupfer’s girls were the only ones who can truly keep up with it all.
Jasper Conran
This season Jasper Conran looked to the outdoors for inspiration, designing a collection that had a fashionable practically. The focus- primary colours of blue and yellow with injections of bright greens, ripe oranges and frosty pinks as the clothes played with texture and silhouette. There was an undeniable athleisure element as models sauntered the runway in colour clashing sandals. Layering was key as translucent tops were worn under boxy bomber jackets and paired with cropped knee length crepe trousers. Sunny yellow camisoles and slip dressed were kept warm under toggled rain macs in shades of forest green and aquatic blue. Straying from the loose shapes, co-ord sets and fitted dresses in light knits featured diamond patterns and linear stripes that enhanced the figure, altogether achieving the hard balancing game of smart-casual. So what has this collection taught us? Colour blocking is back and should adorn the clothing of stylish Londoners who don’t mind getting caught in the rain.
Simone Rocha
Another season, another stand out collection, as Simone Rocha’s SS18 show was like watching eclectically dressed dolls walk the runway. White satin dresses were toughened up with chunky pointed brogues, showing us how to be stylishly feminine yet masculine simultaneously. Deconstructed lace skirts were contradicted by shoulder-padded jackets that belted tight at the waist, all monochromatic but simply made colourful by texture. Simone’s love of sheerness sneaked in as garments featured netted panels exposing delicate skin on the models legs but off set by chunky earrings and hair clips. We cannot fail to mention the display of dark florals that floated down the runway. Whether it be the large scattered black flowers that adored dresses or the micro florals in buttery yellows and raw reds that covered sleeves, it is the newest trend to wear- topped off with a oversized laced collar so that you are truly one of Simone Rocha’s real life dolls.
Ports 1961
Ports is well known for its sleek cuts and low key palette that is all wrapped up in a sharp cosmopolitan style. This season experimented with fringing and stripes in a collection that made us want to update our office wear instantly. Ports approached suiting in a serious manner, offering up an emerald green three-piece that showed off tailoring off to its best. Pleated skirts in crisp whites and yellows were styled with colour-coordinated tops and over sized pointed collars that pulled attention to the models necklines. T-shirt dresses were neatly covered in Mondrian style stripes in hues of yellow and blue, while the white office skirt was reborn in sheer fabric with thick checked fringing. Proving that what you wear to the office can be relaxed yet smart and that you cant go wrong with a pair of bold tasselled flats.