FAULT MAGAZINE Reviews YMC LFWM AW/17

‘Traum Der Maschine’

In a dark and intimate show space with electronic music blaring from Factory Floor and spray paint ‘plastered’ on the walls, You Must Create transported us back to 70s Berlin in what they were calling their ‘Traum Der Maschine’ which literally translates as, Dream Machine. No surprise then that the Creative Director Fraser Moss took his inspiration from the Bauhaus movement, one of the most influential movements in modern art that paved the way in Modernist art and design with its focus on form over function, making this collection wearable yet still directional.

Another designer showcasing a Unisex collection this season, both male and female models stood sporting sheepskin flight jackets, speckled wool suits, Breton tops, wide legged trousers and zip shirts with Maze Print, inspired by the textile art of Josef and Anni Ablers. The silhouette was loose and comfortable with military style pieces in black, grey, camel and olive colours – the staple hues of A/W – offset with a burnt orange woollen bomber jacket and coat.

Moss has yet again succeeded in creating a collection of individual pieces that work well commercially but when combined, make for a harmonious body of work rooted in the punk and DIY aesthetic that makes up the You Must Create DNA.

Heather Ibberson