GQ China have become an established presence on the London menswear catwalks, each season showcasing some of the excellent Chinese design talent. This season it was the turn of H&M Design Award winner Ximon Lee, under his eponymous label XIMONLEE. Entitled “SHAME”, Lee delivered a sublime collection that was part fashion, part art; and a delightful musing on the modern male. Lee plays with structure and proportions, to propose his vision of menswear classics, and  responds to traditional notions of gender norms. Lee is also reflecting upon the societal ‘shame of our nudity’ that is the reason we cover up by dressing. At first glance we see beautiful over-sized outerwear and separates, that upon closer inspection reveal cutaways revealing glimpses of skin; the body the garments are otherwise hiding beneath their volumes. Collars are exaggerated and drape the shoulders. Sheer shirts and trousers are embroidered with pearls for a delicate yet masculine touch. Louche tailoring, leather bomber jackets band deconstructed leather bras and knitwear, out a killer offering from XIMONLEE. This is Mad Max in touch with his feminine side, this is wonderful!

WordsIan Michael Turner