NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15, DAY 2: THE FAULT SS16 DAILY EDIT
Mathieu Mirano
Mathieu Mirano’s Spring 2016 collection is an innovative fusion of evening elegance, everyday accessibility, and an Amazon rainforest-inspired color story. Twisted branch motifs, curved and layered color blocking, sequins, fringe, and surprising color pairings make this collection both intriguing and delightful.
Mirano’s passion and dedication to his work is displayed in the craftsmanship of every detail. Textile mills in France were sourced, as well as New York artisans, creating fabrications that appear to be iridescent, shimmering, delicate and luxurious. There is a sense of liveliness and movement within the pieces, in contrast with the absolute stillness of the presentation.
Contrasting but cohesive, the color story is the most striking aspect of the collection as a whole. Mirano incorporated bright pink, a very dark plum, gradients of ocean blues and greens, touches of orange, and bold yellow. There was a dark hunter green for the show-stopping evening dress positioned front and center. There were ombre washes of gradient colors on chiffon, and twisting sections of contrasting colors that gave fluidity to the more pristine silhouettes. All of the colors feel harmonious and decidedly wearable. Even viewing everything at once, there is a surprising synchronicity in all the saturation and boldness.
The designer stated: “My aim is to energize the field around the body and electrify it with my work. I want to design garments that are as amazing and liberated as the women who wear my collection.” He was absolutely successful, and in the months and years ahead, these amazing and liberated women will want to wear every one of the pieces in this brilliant collection.
Leanne Marshall
Leanne Marshall’s ever enchanting setting laid dramatic musical notes opening with a darkened thundering showcasing a bold softness painted black. Light, lifeless and whispering breaths of petal pieces, exposed shoulders and sheer transparency where the beginning of an organic metamorphosis of inner self. Colors transcended opening up to lighter blues, violet lilacs, and onto empowering emeralds and lapis lightning blues. Loose, lengthy and fluid mixed with ultra sheer pleasingly created an ethereal and whimsical air, with the tallest of amazon like models gliding down the runway crowned in nature’s fit twigged jewels. An ever after storybook delight.
Tadashi Shoji
An illuminated lavender lit setting surrounded the venue with high anticipation that soon settled into a gifted opening of heavenly white floral lace and sheer delight. Everything that can be expected and fantasized came elegantly down the runway. A lustrous garden come to life, with short and long dresses, light separates, ballerina inspired layered and pleated chiffon skirts paired with easy-go delicate sweaters and bomber zips jackets. Intricate detailing textiles aligned with emeralds, neutral creamy whites, peachy pinks, royal blues, and floral outlines andappliqué with contrasting stripe elements presented a captivating and charming expression of elegance and sophistication. Stunning elegance as hoped and mesmerizing with beautifying confidence.
sleeved shirts full-suited stamina rocked out with music worthy hair fusion. The elements of copper textures, metallics and touches of olive gave way for a new evening declaration.
Wearable and head turning, CREATURES OF THE WIND delivered collectively cool separates, ideal for the nonstop city movement and day to night transition.
TOME
TOME presented a confidently leading and silently seductive collection with hints of masculinity adorned by a significantly sophisticated integrated palette of neutral black, white, taupe-khaki and cream with polite pops of poppy pink and canary yellow. The impressively grand dominating one shoulder ruffles offered a great supportive contrast to the classicism of menswear touches shown in the trousers, long sleeve low-dipped, v-neck blouse silhouettes accented by the slick back hair and bare faces. Bold with character, mixed in stripes, sheer delights and long skirts, there’s an echoing of energetic freedom, sensuality and gentle mysterious invitation.
Chaunielle Brown