As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.

 

Antonio Berardi

The beauty of Antonio Berardi’s SS16 collection was that there was something for everyone. His knowledge and understanding of the female form is what enabled him to bring this vision to life. Berardi believes ‘that a woman’s clothes should reflect her femininity, propriety and sense of quality’. So what did this season say about the Antonio Berardi woman?
The last season saw the image of the everyday woman transformed with a fantastical twist. This season, Berardi was giving his woman a choice of whatever she wants. Between the playful and professional, the collection offered an abundance of choice. Maxi dresses with longa and flowing skirts provided the elegance whilst tailored jacket provided a sharp contrast. Structure was a main focus in this collection, from the layers to the tailoring. This style is true to the brands aesthetic, as Berardi is known for combing the styles of his heritage – traditional English tailoring techniques with the bohemian styles of Sicily. ?The collection was also defined by the palette offered- soft pastels, bold tones and dazzling prints. The colour choices also defined the mood of each piece, again reiterating the choices we have.
Not often are we given so much choice or opportunity by a designer to choose the style of woman we wish to be. Antonio Berardi has allowed for this, handing us back the control to choose our style direction. Not only is it refreshing, but it is also empowering, which is exactly what he aims for.

Emma Ellen

 

Peter Jensen

Absent from London Fashion Week since AW12, Peter Jensen’s SS16 collection presentation has been eagerly awaited, to say the least.

The designer claimed back his territory at London Fashion Week with one of his trademark presentations, inspired by his stylist and friend Shirley Kurata, and her looks, in turn inspired by fashion of the Sixties and Eighties.
Contemporary Mod looks were high on the list, with dropped-waist dresses aplenty, polo shirts with embroidered name tags, button-down shirts and circle skirts, all in retina-burning primary colours, finished off with sequinned sports socks. We particularly loved the embroidered cactus sweaters! Models presented the looks shielded by brightly-coloured visor helmets, only a slash of bright red lipstick visible.
The SS16 collection was super fun and so wearable; we can’t wait to spot this collection doing the rounds on our favourite celebrities come Springtime!

Laura Hudson

 

Burberry

There’s only one show at fashion week where rain is appropriate. In a moment of pathetic fallacy, the heavens opened for Burberry and their signature mac coats.
This season they were black in a rather sombre spring/summer collection. Gold brocade embroidery or contrasting metal buttons and buckles were only a hint of brightness. Throughout the mini dresses, tank tops, blouses, capes and lace skirts, black continued to be the key theme, with a few touches of cream, white and gold and the processing of models could have been mourners at a funeral. Perhaps a military funeral given the subtle rope toggle loops, white slacks and gold knot buttons.
It wasn’t all solemn, utilitarianism though, cut-out cage dresses, long sleeved, sheer skater dresses and lace dresses with hems cut to the outline of the lace pattern gave something for party goers to dream about this season. Dotted around the collection were a few floating maxi dresses in white satin, red polka dot tulle and a black and white print with fan shaped collar which were particularly dreamy.
The lace and pleated black capes had a sense of Victoriana about them adding to the surprisingly subdued season for Burberry but surprises are what keeps this heritage brand fresh.

Olivia Pinnock

 

Peter Pilotto

One of the most eagerly-anticipated shows of the season, Peter Pilotto saw the BFC Show Space packed out this afternoon, as tastemakers clamoured to see the SS16 collection.

Bringing their well-honed brand of sports-inspired chic to the catwalk, the Peter Pilotto boys took some of last season’s silhouettes and rejuvenated them, using an abundance of fabric for a “more is more” approach.

Swinging and pencil skirts came swathed in layers of delicate Chantilly lace, while macramé was used alongside satin on the asymmetric skirts and flared culottes for a gentle patchwork feel. Ruffles were used to huge effect throughout the collection; sleeves, waists and skirts were covered in in flattering, floaty frills that added a feminine edge to otherwise structured outfits.

The whole collection felt perfectly pretty whilst maintaining that slick, modern edge that the duo are so well known for. The feminine frills mixed with strong structures and delicate pastels worked well with strong, athletic-inspired accents. The collection also debuted the first Peter Pilotto footwear collection, comprising a peeptoe stiletto boot, a flat mule and an ankle-strap mid-heel; perfectly wearable accompaniments to a perfectly wearable collection.

Laura Hudson

 

Roksanda Illincic

Fresh from celebrating 10 years of her brand, Roksanda Illincic launched the next chapter with long, elegant styles in sherbet pink, blue, yellow and orange. Tubular dresses were finished with bell sleeves, like flower trumpets to add shape. Gathered necklines at the top of straight across strapless dresses and short, tattered layers silk also added texture to the slim and chic collection.
Punctuating the zingy, summery colour palette were contrasting black stripes to create a ‘liquorice all sorts’ effect. Other dresses used black strips in a more artistic fashion, creating a print like a modern abstract painting, which was enhanced by the set of cardboard cubes, cylinders and curved walls that the models weaved in and out of.
Requiring little styling, these are dresses you can put on and instantly look amazing. Roksanda has consistently proved that less is more with her minimalist, feminine style that often exceeds trends, future proofing herself for another 10 years.

Olivia Pinnock

 

Christopher Kane

From last season’s Matisse-like life drawings, Christopher Kane moved into spray paint print fabrics and Picasso-like jagged collages in vivid colours. Art school cool is well and truly back on trend. Slinky, asymmetrical slip dresses with side slits and LBDs with cut out geometric shapes added some sex appeal to the quirky designs, which was on point for the cool, creative and youthful women who dress up for the evening in Christopher Kane. Coats and shift dresses in a patchwork of different coloured neon lace were also so very Christopher.

Rainbow fringed skirts softened the sharp collage work that looked like broken glass and slouchy jumpers worn off the shoulder and covered in random embellishments created a carefree attitude. Cable ties were used as accessories around models’ arms, hair, necks and through belt loops, sending the message to DIY and play with your style and your expression.

Though there were some simple, loose-fitting black dresses and white blouses, it’s neon that we’ve loved Christopher Kane for before and it’s the neon we all want for ss16!

Olivia Pinnock

 

Barbara Casasola

Barbara Casasola’s SS16 collection was a minimalist’s dream. In a strict colour palette of creamy white, brick red, emerald green, toffee brown and black, Casasola presented the waiting audience with a pared-back collection designed to bring the audience down to earth.

Inspired by the idea of “what lies beneath”, the collection left nowhere to hide, with streamlined silhouettes and unadorned fabrics. Models glided down the catwalk in fluid silk tank dresses, sleek double-breasted suits and floor-sweeping coats; fuss-free and exceptionally elegant. Cold shoulders, slashes, tiers and cut-out waists lent us a glimpse of what lay beneath in a literal sense, while the garments themselves had an overall effect of mysterious, luxurious glamour.

Stand-out garments included the cream satin suit, elegant oversized and nonchalant in its fit, and the matching floor-length satin coat, and the opening garment; a silver-white silk tank dress that rippled like water (apt, given the rain outside!) and had every head turning as the wearer drifted down the runway. If this is the new summer, count us in.

Laura Hudson

 

Joseph

Joseph’s SS16 collection stormed the catwalk in a blaze of monochrome glory; the strict colour palette only allowed for mere glimpses of anything other than the bare basics, with flashes of acid yellow, soft lemon or nude pink making brief appearances.

Androgyny was the key word for the collection; barefaced models strode the catwalk in oversized, boxy shapes and mannish separates, paired with box-fresh shell-toe trainers for that classic sports-luxe look. Shirts were knotted at the waist and tied together to create dresses, or extended into maxis. Tees were knotted and worn with wraparound skirts created out of shirts, while dresses were created out of knotted leather or cotton.

Mannish single-breasted suits, worn open and oversized, were the most masculine element to the collection, with sheer shirts and pastel colours the only feminine elements.

Towards the end of the collection, focus turned to colour clashing and trailing elements; Asian-inspired tunics in mismatched metallic fabrics were worn with sheer gauze culottes, with belts akin to strait-jacket ribbons trailing on the catwalk. The ribbons were added on to more tailored looks at the end of the collection, adding a somewhat sinister and futuristic edge to a thoroughly modern collection.

Laura Hudson