As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.

 

Phoebe English

The Phoebe English SS16 presentation was a dark and dramatic collection; a heavily monochrome collection in stark, sharp shapes dominated, with a mix of soft and structured fabrics, all with an unfinished edge.

Models presented oversized black dresses, cut in slouchy shapes with slashes, or layers of sheer fabric adding texture and drama. Dresses also featured woven panels overlaid with unravelling edges, creating an undone look that sat well alongside the models’ bedhead hairstyles.

Other pieces seemed to be inspired by traditional workwear, with pinafore-style dresses in hardy natural linen, uneven edges and loose ribbon ties. White shirts were fashioned into ruffly dresses with the woven panels making a second appearance, while edges were left raw and unfinished. The entire collection left us feeling a little uneasy beside the polished perfection of other collections this season, but we get the feeling that perhaps that was the whole point.

Laura Hudson

 

Paul Smith

When a brand has such a strong aesthetic as Paul Smith, it’s a certainty that the show won’t disappoint. Paul Smith’s SS16 show was a welcome explosion of colour, with shades of teal and tangerine featuring heavily throughout.

The collection paid homage to Smith’s latest menswear collection, with oversized tailoring and masculine shapes making their mark on the runway. Shapes were slouchy yet sophisticated; the fashion editor’s dream! Double-breasted suit jackets were worn buttoned up and belted, while oversized blazers hung over similarly loose trousers. Models showcased culottes and oversized smocks in bright colours and clashing prints, while the tailoring element was kept sleek in shades of neutral navy, teal, grey and white.

We especially loved the oversized orange satin coat – a tangerine dream! – and the mannish blazers that would toughen up any number of feminine dresses when Spring rolls around. A classic collection, perfect for those who love Paul Smith’s minimalist vibe.

Laura Hudson

 

Margaret Howell

Suitably sporty and a little bit bookish, Margaret Howell’s SS16 collection was pared-back and perfectly Parisian. Howell’s style staples were all present and correct for this season, with an array of crisp shirts and paper-bag tailored trousers, in classic monochrome with a chic shot of scarlet.

Pointed Peter Pan collars, co-ords and sheer rain macs added a subtle 60s flair to the collection; we can just see Howell’s collection being worn playing tennis in the Tuileries, scanning the shelves of the Sorbonne library, or having a picnic on the banks of the Seine.

Sleek, simple shapes made up the majority of the collection; it felt completely wearable and looked effortlessly elegant – typically Margaret Howell, of course.

One thing’s for sure, we’re definitely going to be pairing black socks with white loafers next Spring if it looks this good!

Laura Hudson

 

Mary Katrantzou

An astronomical phenomenon swept through fashion week on day three. A celestial display of shimmering fabrics, star cluster prints and midnight jewel tones. Mary Katrantzou stuck to the desirable, never tasteless, party dresses that she does best with a cosmological theme. 

Above-the-knee skirts were balanced out with high necklines, many in a racer front cut. Styled with thick ribbed tights and multi-buckle, pointed ankle boots, these party girls are cool and confident.
Of course it wouldn’t be a Mary Katrantzou collection without some print. As well as dotted, swirling constellations, Asian influences were also present. Curved lines framed the body and separated panels of clashing prints inspired by nature akin to a Persian rug.
We’re on board for a magic carpet ride to the stars next season!

Olivia Pinnock

 

Pringle

Celebrating its 200th anniversary, Pringle of Scotland is of course one of Britain’s most revered brands, and we were all keen to see what contemporary vision this ever-developing company would bring to the catwalk for SS16.
Employing traditional knitting techniques to stunningly modern effect is always a key element of Pringle of Scotland’s shows, and this season was no different. Macramé and crochet featured heavily in the latest collection for an innovative twist on the traditional, with emphasis placed on contrasting textures. Macramé bralets were teamed with silk, while baby-soft sweaters were paired with hardy cut-out leather.
Sticking mostly to a stark monochrome colour palette, flashes of contemporary metallics were used to great effect too, with fluid silver silk and glimmers of gold adding a feminine feel to the collection. Loose, open knits and slouchy shapes gave Pringle a gorgeously grungy vibe too.
Printed chiffon and shirting were also prevalent in this latest collection, with a 3D effect print causing waves on the front now, while asymmetric proportions, cold shoulders and crochet applique added a hint of sensuality.

Laura Hudson

 

Claire Barrow

As you walked into the Claire Barrow SS16 presentation, you got the sense that you had reached a post-apocalyptic parallel universe. Models were sprawled over a black satin canvas, although it looked more like they had submerged themselves in a swamp of oil. The confronting image was the exact point Barrows wanted to make. She wanted to have her audiences confront their reality and in turn question their future. The idea behind her collection was what kind of world would we live in without technology?

Barrows is well known for incorporating political messages in her work, often drawing inspiring images and messages on her garments. This season was no exception to that rule. The feeling of vulnerability was perfectly displayed in the use of basic undergarments. Not one to waste any canvas space, Barrow’s also used tights and leather underpants to convey her message. Dresses were layered and ruffled, leather trousers were ass-less and suits were beautifully tailored.

Barrow’s confronting dystopia was exactly was this season’s fashion week needed. It’s the experience of seeing brilliantly hand crafted garments but also having your own ideas and values challenged.

Emma Ellen

 

Zoe Jordan

Presentations have always offered designers a new approach at displaying work to an audience. More like an art show than a parade, it invites the audience to get involved and be much more intimate with a collection. But as technology advances and many industries start taking that digital plunge, designers must continue finding new platforms to best present their collections each season.
Zoë Jordan is one of those few designers taking a step in the direction of film. For her SS16 collection ‘Archipelago’ she decide to use KCD’s online –only runway platform, one that allows her to reach a much bigger international audience. With regards to the new digital platform she states that it ‘has facilitated insightful and interesting conversations with my audience’ allowing her to understand what it is ‘what they want, wear and stand for.’

The presentation is set against a rock and sand covered area; it’s tranquil but also feels quite remote. This made me pose the question; if I were stuck on an island what would I take? The Zoë Jordan SS16 collection of course. The pieces in this collection exude strength whilst remaining practical. Wide legged trousers, shift dresses and shirts provide this comfort but it is the beautiful tailoring in the jackets and detailed construction of the hooded jumpers that provide the strength. But it is the fabrications – everything from the mesh to the print design that makes this collection what it is.

An interesting way of presenting her collection, Jordan deserves recognition for taking a risk. Many are not cottoning on to this trend, but I’m sure as time goes by many will be jumping on board.

Emma Ellen

 

MM6 Maison Margiela

If the stars of Ziggy Stardust and Mick Jagger were to collide, MM6 Maison Margiela SS16 collection would be the result. With Galliano directing the diffused brand’s design team you can only hope for something electric and extraordinary.

Electric is definitely how you would define this collection. Inspired by London and the brand’s creative community, this season seemed to depict what a futuristic East London may potentially look like.

Yet it can only be said that this was the brand’s own “glam metal” squad as the roughness of the jeans and t-shirt look was glamorised by the constant use of sequins (from gloves to a bum bag being used as a bandeau top). Out of all the looks, the strongest would have to be the brown sequined suit. Double breasted with an exaggerated collar and worn with a scarf that swept the floor, no other look felt as strong as this did. Yet out of all of the garment details, a personal favourite would have to be the use of the bow collar. This exaggerated neckline is quite soft; therefore I felt it toned down the harshness and brightness of the collection. The collars were worn well over deconstructed jackets and sleeveless sweaters. I felt that this made the collection a more wearable option for the MM6 follower.

The point of this collection was to represent the creative individuals who inspire all forms of art; from those that are thrown together, to the structurally intricate, from the dark to the dazzling. With that being said it is no doubt that the brand hit its mark.

Emma Ellen

 

Belstaff

There is only word to describe the Belstaff SS16 collection and that is tranquil.

Everything from the garments to the atmosphere of the show embodied this peaceful mood. But to say it was a show is simply not enough; an experience is more befitting. As you entered the room, the soothing sound of waves craves filled the air, as models posed against a backdrop of ocean views.

The beauty that manifests in power inspired Belstaff’s most recent collection. It is forces such as the thrust of a wave to the movement of the wind that influence this strength and beauty.
Water is identified as being nature’s most powerful element and force. It is this kind of energy; in particular that of the sea that influences the overall style. It has influenced the play on tones – lighter shades reflect the shallows whereas darker tones signify the depths of the ocean, the energy and movement of water can be felt in the texture of the fabrics and silhouettes of the garments. Soft delicate silks, hung from the body providing contrast to the leather and suede jackets.

The Belstaff woman is a force to be reckoned with; something the brand has truly emulated through this collection. She exudes true femininity, which is where true beauty meets with great power.

Emma Ellen

 

Osman

Osman’s SS16 collection was an ode to artist, Frida Kahlo. Inspired by the love letters written by Kahlo to her husband Diego Rivera, the collection explores the passionate emotion that consumed her.

Kahlo always felt a sense of pressure, between dressing like a traditional Mexican woman would and more like the modern she was. This caused anguish and uncertainty, for she just wanted to be loved.

The collections open in tones of black and white. Keeping it simple but also traditional. Shirts are white and crisp, adorned with traditional ties and heavy black leather belts. The looks are quite androgynous which seems representational of Kahlo’s painting Self-portrait with cropped hair. The collection then moves into tones of red, where designs shift between suits and frilled dresses, really playing on Kahlo’s own gender confusion. In beautiful Osman form, the garments transpired into beautiful artworks themselves- once blank canvases; the fabric was now decoratively detailed with sweeping brush strokes.

Yet it is the motif of a tree, its roots anchored deep into the garments that really bring this collection home. The first tree we see is embellished onto the garment, long thing roots race down the body in a deep blood red. The next and final garment shows the same tree, but this time the tree has grown and is full of life. Kahlo has a painting entitled Tree of Hope, a self portrait that sees her holding a flag that bares the phrase ‘tree of hope remain strong.’ Kahlo found life to be a challenge, including her relationship with Diego. The tree is a representation of the strength and hope that things can only get better.

The beauty of this collection is that it did not try too hard. Many designs get lost in the moment of what was rather than what is. This modern take on someone who was once considered a modern woman, is a befitting and colourful tribute.

Emma Ellen

 

David Koma

If one word were to define the David Koma SS16 collection it would be ‘woman’. It was a strong and mature collection, defined by its figure hugging silhouettes and classic colour palette. As far from the “girlish and pretty” cliché you could get, its style depicted the new modern femininity needed both in fashion and society.

For a young designer, Koma has already shaped his brands style identity- something that can take designers years to establish. Drawn to the ultra body-contouring silhouette, Koma has been able to craft pieces that truly define the female form. His ability to use contrasting panels, create intricate design lines within the garment and refine its shape is what has allowed him to jump so far ahead in the fashion game.

The SS16 show was a prime example of how he has been able to do all of the above within one stunning collection. He has been able to accentuate the female form through the use of corsets, belts and transparent contrast panelling. To achieve the “feminine” look, the shape of the garment needs to exaggerate the shoulders and hips and give the appearance of a nipped in waist. Koma has been able to achieve this look with the use of a dropped shoulder and bell sleeve, and swing skirts. ?The colour palette of this collection is of classic tones- black and white, a nude pink and tones of blue. In keeping with simple colour choices, Koma has been able to focus on the silhouette and of course the small details, such as the embellishments.

As Koma is so young and already with a brand that knows its place within the industry, it will be interesting to see where it goes, but also how the David Koma woman will grow and evolve.

Emma Ellen

 

KTZ

What isn’t there to say about the KTZ SS16 Womenswear collection? It was fierce, it was strong and it was leather clad.
The idea behind the collection was that “everything is possible”, exposing the KTZ woman’s determination, sensuality and her imagination. Designer Marjan Pejoski drew inspiration from cultural references, which allowed him to combine the styles of 80’s post-punk icon Siouxsie Sioux, the African Mursi tribe and the futuristic film Blade Runner. All of these influences allowed Pejoski to create a style ‘that knows its past, anticipates the future, but is firmly grounded in the present.’
The garments in this collection were reminiscent of body armour. Shift dresses and loosely tailored coats allowed the attention to be all on the texture and details of the garments. In true KTZ fashion leather, PVC and mesh all made their way into the collection, where they were combined and layered. Silver coins were used to embellish the garments, from the fringing on the hemlines to its entire surface; it accentuated the armour-like image of these KTZ warriors. The monochrome tones of the collection moved onto tones of sand brown, where creased coats and boxy skirts and jackets appeared to be made of boxes and paper bags. This provided a nice transition in tone and texture, for models then came in shift dresses splattered in primary paint colours. This ‘art attack’ was visually and texturally alluring, as you just wanted to go up and feel the garments.
That’s what I love about a KTZ collection – you can look and you most certainly want to touch. Their ability to arouse all the senses with their powerful and dominating looks, is what makes this brand’s future so right now.

Emma Ellen

 

Temperley

‘Because it’s just joyous – and it should be! It should be wearable, it should be fresh – and ultimately, [be] clothes to make girls feel good.’ These are the words of Alice Temperley, the mind behind her visionary label Temperley.

These words not only describe the mood of the collection, but how fashion should be in general. Temperley wins point not just for creating a collection that makes you want jump on the next plane to Cuba, but for setting realistic standards in fashion.

For the spring/summer season, Temperley set her sights on the sultry and decadent Havana. ‘The romance and decadence of Cuba and [a] bygone era… Making fashion that is ultimately wearable and also transports you at the same time.’
The eye-popping collection was a refreshing change from the general look of the week, but still kept in line with the brand’s bohemian aesthetic. Dresses of cotton and silk seemed to float around the models as they glided down the catwalk, beautifully embroidered and appliqued with tropical flower and bold palm leaf motifs. The same motifs were used as print on many garments, in brilliant shades of blue, green and yellow.

Overall the collection was easy. It felt relaxed and comfortable, which is something every single woman looks for. Temperley have been able to deliver by combining style and comfort, which is something that is not easily or often done.

Emma Ellen