As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.

 

Fashion East

Fashion East celebrated a huge milestone this season; the graduate initiative launched by Lulu Kennedy turned 15! And they celebrated in style, with three eclectic collections from designers Caitlin Price, Richard Malone and This Is The Uniform.

Price’s collection was inspired by that age-old quandary of what to wear when dressing up to go out. The collection blended the boundaries of day-to-night dressing, with 90s-inspired tracksuits and cargo pants placed beside ballgowns in matching shades of pastel pinks and blues. Full silk skirts were paired with bandeau crop tops, bomber jackets and crisp white trainers for Price’s signature edgy take on formalwear, with an undeniable 90s girlband feel.

This Is The Uniform, from Jenna Young, gave us a presentation inspired by Young’s Blackpool upbringing, in a youth club set-up with models tucking into McDonalds and chocolate bars and playing ping-pong throughout. The collection was heavily inspired by sportswear and offered up sleek, simple shapes in a clean colour palette of crisp white and crimson, mixing sheer fabrics with shiny satins and even a few string vests!

Conversely, stripes and frills in a zingy citrus colour palette were the order of the day for Malone’s collection. His presentation showcased a range of distinctive, oversized silhouettes, with gargantuan frills in monochrome stripes throughout. Malone cited Argos uniforms and aprons as his inspiration, with tabard-like pinafore dresses and wide-cut shirts in shades of orange and navy making their mark in the presentation.

Laura Hudson

 

Palmer-Harding

Palmer-Harding served up a stunning sophisticated collection for SS16, dominated by the directional shirts that the brand is renowned for. This womenswear presentation saw the humble shirt expanded and moulded into an exciting and contemporary collection, filled with interesting shapes and stunning details.

Sleeves of classic white shirts were slashed and cuffs and collars were oversized for emphasis, while some shapes were lengthened and extended into sleek but structured shirt dresses in cotton and linen, with Swarovski crystal embellishment and sheer panels thrown into the mix too. Shirts were paired with silver-gilded leather skirts in powder pink and burgundy, or with leather jackets slung over the shoulders, complete with slashed open sleeves and brass hardware.

Palmer-Harding’s show was inspired by the work of artist Nathan Peter and his idea of distilling materials into their purest form; linens and cottons were dethreaded for a stunning tasselled effect, to form stripes lifted from the fabric, rather than woven into it, while leather garments were gilded by hand. The show was described as a “celebration of the human touched, crafted and artisanal skill”, which it delivered in typically elegant fashion.

Laura Hudson

 

Mother of Pearl

Mother of Pearl served up a whimsical collection packed with nostalgic touches for SS16, mixing cutesy vintage influences with the modern sports luxe vibe that the brand is so well known for.

The collection offered up a subtle, sophisticated colour palette of navy, white, sky blue and blush, with splashes of vibrant mustard, punchy coral-red and sleek monochrome throughout. Models showcased a collection filled with contemporary twists on retro favourites; pie-crust collars, straw boaters, Victoriana vibes and ruffles and frills aplenty blended with sleek, slimline shapes to create a collection that reminded us at times of Pippy Longstocking and Mary Poppins, with some Barbarella boots thrown in for good measure.

We loved the schoolgirl pinafores in sky blue and gingham, while the pale colour palette screamed sunny days in spring, all blue sky and blossom. As for standout pieces, we can see the simple blush pink coat becoming a season staple come 2016!

Laura Hudson

 

Julien Macdonald

If we can say one thing about Julien Macdonald, it’s that you’re always guaranteed a real show. And the notoriously decadent designer did not disappoint with his SS16 collection, as he presented a typically lavish women’s collection, as well as sending men down the runway for the first time.

Macdonald’s womenswear collection was inspired by the idea of a futuristic warrior woman, with a metallic colour palette and intricate beading acting as their armour. There was also a touch of the Grecian goddess about it, with gladiator sandals and draping shapes aplenty. Laser-cut printed silks added a welcome explosion of colour to the collection, with dashes of buttery yellow, cobalt and purple making their mark among the khaki and charcoal looks sashaying down the runway.

No Julien Macdonald show is complete without a showstopping ballgown, and Macdonald provided us with several; although we particularly loved the finale outfit, an embellished white jumpsuit/ballgown hybrid. And Macdonald’s menswear debut didn’t disappoint either, with a similarly Grecian warrior theme for the boys; printed silks and slashed knits were paired with those gladiator sandals – and navy toenail polish!

Laura Hudson

 

Markus Lupfer

A ‘natural’ progression from AW15, Markus Lupfer transformed last fashion week’s ‘enchanted forest’ models into a meadow of flowers with a hint of Mexicana for SS16. Floral, black lace tank tops and boxy blouses were matched with black organza dresses and bomber jackets with embroidered wild flowers for a less girlie take on the stereotypical spring/summer trend. The designer’s signature cheekiness was present in a comic book style illustrated print of a Mexican wrestler on peg trousers and t-shirts. Youthful, casual silhouettes of skater dresses, spaghetti strap vest tops and capris paired with starry eyed sunglasses were full of fun and flirtiness but the Markus Lupfer girl is never naïve or quaint.

Olivia Pinnock

 

Holly Fulton

Sitting on the benches of the catwalk space and waiting for the Holly Fulton show to start at London Fashion Week’s new home in a Soho car park, we sparked a conversation about why the designer has perhaps not enjoyed the same level of growth as some of her peers. Maybe it’s a lack of funding opportunities, maybe it’s the handcrafted nature of a lot of her work that is harder to scale up but in a packed room that was buzzing with excitement, it was clear that Holly Fulton is an absolute gem to the London fashion crowd. As the show got under way, we were still filled with butterflies at the sight of a truly beautiful collection that Holly has so consistently offered since she debuted with Fashion East six years ago.
Fitted hourglass silhouettes were modernised with bursts of volume at the hem and elbow of dresses, classic blouses took creative office wear to new heights with heavily jewelled collars and a feminine colour palette of teal, purple and pink was punked up with a few select pieces in neon green.
The prints, of course, were a highlight. Collages of pinwheels, diamonds, starfish, tidal waves and flowers made the mainstay denim flares and jacket original and pencil dresses with glittering front panels that bit more special.
Taking inspiration from another feisty, beatnik female, this season Holly looked at the work of surrealist artist Eileen Agar to create her prints as well as the attitude of playfulness that’s matched with a strong will. Stomping down the catwalk in their Louboutin collaboration wedges, looking like non-conformist secretaries in their cat eye glasses, it summed up Holly’s desire to dress women as the most empowered and feminine versions of themselves and that’s what make her a quietly assured British fashion darling.

Olivia Pinnock

 

Sibling

What I love about a Sibling collection is its energy. They have this ability to create a style that is fun and sexy, but never in a cliché way. Focusing on their SS16 collection, one that oozes grunge and glam, designers Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery found inspiration in the likes of Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin.

The collection itself was a take on classic silhouettes, which allowed the designers to focus on texture and print. Having built their aesthetic on the use of knitwear, it was no surprise when models donned brightly striped knitted and crocheted swimwear. What did provide a great contrast was the use of vinyl. Smooth compared to the rough texture of the knits, it added a sleek and sexy feel the collection much needed. Models wore leopard print slips, ponchos and one-pieces, which added that “Sibling” touch to the collection. As described by the brand, leopard print motifs and vibrant colours play an important role in their identity. However, it’s the hand crocheted poncho and maxi dress, with panels made to look like records that deserves the credit. Fun and edgy pieces, these are the kinds of garments that you turn to Sibling for.

This is a brand that continues to push the conventional boundaries of fashion. They create pieces that are exciting and challenging, always testing what we think we know. Which is the reason they have every single one of us coming back each season for more.

Emma Ellen

 

Faustine Steinmetz

 

The idea behind Faustine Steinmetz collection was distortion. Inspired by artists Joseph Kosuth and Salvador Dali, Steinmetz was drawn to their ability to distort the form and meaning of their object beyond its classic form. Whilst Dali physically distorted the form of his object, Kosuth would re-imagine his pieces, challenging the viewer to question their original meaning.

As a brand, Faustine Steinmetz focuses on creating a sustainable product that is spun, dyed and woven all by hand. They are known for reimagining staple pieces that everyone has, taking the garments original form yet, revolutionising its concept and transforming it into something that is unique.

Her ability to create contemporary everyday pieces is the reason why Faustine Steinmetz’s presentation is must each season. With regards to her SS16 collection, she stated that she ‘wanted to make the ordinary precious’, a vision that seems relevant to the brands identity. Models broke through walls in garments that had been stretched, pulled, melted and knotted, honing the idea of deconstruction. The starting point of the collection was denim, where we saw trousers and jackets intricately embroidered with green ivy, birds of paradise and gypsophila flowers. Then the collection transformed – we started to see the breakdown of this beauty. Denim became frayed and faded, and tracksuits made from ethically sourced cotton were frayed to a gossamer-like thinness.

To say that this collection was a mix of jeans and tracksuits is an understatement. Faustine Steinmetz has revolutionised the way we see everyday fashion, by allowing us to bare witness to a collection of intricate and timeless pieces that will stand the test of time.

Emma Ellen

 

Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead is the definition of modern femininity. Everything from her choice of silhouette to colour, transforms each collection that this brand creates.

The inspiration for this season’s collection came from George Cukor’s The Women, a film that explores the roles of strong, defiant and confident women. In Wickstead’s own words, it’s “the modern woman’s no nonsense approach to life” that she aims to represent.

The kind of woman we saw portrayed on the catwalk was the kind who plays on classic looks. She is confident and smart, but she’s not afraid to take risks. But more importantly what we saw in this collection was femininity with a little bit of zest added to it. Models wore voluminous skirts, flared trousers and tops with billowing sleeves. In true feminist form, the female figure was accentuated with the garments silhouette – slimming pencil skirts, dresses and coats nipped in at the waist. But what set this collection a part from others was the use of colour. Tones of golden yellow and pastel peach opened the show adding sass and providing a refreshing take on the classic style. The yellow and purple geometric print also provided the modern twist the collection would need. From the yellows, came the usual tones of pink, lilac and green, finishing off with a saturated floral print that screamed ‘I am woman, hear me roar.’

When you go to a Wickstead show, you know what you’re in for – a refreshing vision of what makes the modern woman who she is. Wickstead has refined this woman and the brands identity so much so that each collection is a beautiful spectacular to watch.

Emma Ellen

 

Fyodor Golan

Fyodor Golan’s SS16 collection took its cue from the world of Transformers, models of which lined the seats of the front row. The collection reflected this, but not in the way one might have expected. Instead, the clothes seemed to speak of the cyber-world, with digital flower prints in neon shades that popped against black and metallic backgrounds, rendered in duplicate as if copied and pasted from a Tumblr dashboard. The tailoring was experimental, with asymmetrical hemlines, cross-cut skirts, off-centre halternecks and scissored sleeves. It was this detailing that set the collection apart, taking the Internet influences (which can always feel slightly overdone) and breathing new life into them.

Will Ballantyne