As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates. 

J. JS Lee  ‘Freedom And Liberation’

 

For Jackie Lee this collection was more than expression, it was reflection. The collection aimed to celebrate the designer’s newfound carefree attitude, but it also reflected her sense of freedom.

Lee, inspired by hanging street art and the linear structure of an open birdcage, also found direction in the mood of 1970’s California- a period of time known for being electric, free and of true exploration. With its relaxed feel, came relaxed silhouettes – oversized and voluminous shapes juxtaposed with soft tailoring. Models donned minimalistic tailored suits that honoured the strong and professional individual that the J. JS Lee woman is. In contrast, others donned billowing maxi dresses that played on the relaxed and carefree attitude of Lee’s inner self.

The aim was to visually represent Lee’s own personal journey of taking flight. A movement so subtly seen in the garments details, particularly in the laser cut bird shaped applique on sleeveless blazers and shift dresses.

The collection embodies a sense of freedom that we all aim for. Its ‘less is more’ approach enabled Lee to hone the relaxed style synonymous to the brands identity. Now we have seen what she is doing, we can only wait in anticipation to see where she goes next.

Emma Ellen

 

Daks  ‘Art Deco Collection’

When you entered the Daks Spring/Summer 2016 show, it was hard not to be impressed by the extravagant display that greeted you – a marble runway stretched out of the length of the room. Yet it was what followed that truly made the show the

Last season, creative director Filippo Scuffi said ‘In the future we may go back’. A statement that justifies the transition to a more daring collection last season, but also defines the modernist approach for this season.

The modern approach to the Art Deco theme saw the brand experiment with the romantic and decorative influences of the 1920s and 1930s. From the dropped-waist pleated dresses of the twenties to the detailed prints that can be only drawn from the thirties.

The silhouettes of the collection followed on from previous collections – classic feminine styles nipped in at the waist with belted tailored jackets and slimming pencil skirts, along with billowing maxi dresses and skirts. All paid homage to the feminine and metropolitan Daks woman.

But let’s cut to the chase and talk about those prints that not only defined the garments, but the brands season. Rich and unique are these prints with their thirties feel, the first being a window-check design and the other being of superimposed leaves and flowers.

On a whole, the collection was sophisticated and feminine. The textures and choice of colours helped the brand represent a strong and modern attitude so common with their identity. It was luscious and rich and I must say, they definitely made a decadent impression.

Emma Ellen

 

Zandra Rhodes 

 

The only way to start off Fashion Week is with a pink bang by the name of Zandra Rhodes. The morning was a cause for celebration – it was the brands first show in over a decade and the creative genius behind the brand is also turning 75. A career that has spanned for over 50 years has seen Rhodes revolutionise textile design, something not lost in this collection.

When you think of Zandra Rhodes you think colour and print. Her game is still strong and it comes in the form of wild prints and bejewelled caps.

The collection was divided into colours – fuschia pink, blue and orange. Floaty silk dresses, voluminous flared skirts and chic trouser and jacket combinations helped play on the exciting and fun mood of the collection. But it wasn’t just the colour or the silhouettes that made these garments pop. It was the prints. The prints were a representation of Malaysian culture and celebrated the country’s craft and design industries. Banana leaves and abstract shapes gave the collection the eye opening reaction so common with a Rhodes collection.

The amazing thing is, Rhode’s influence is still relevant today. In this industry that is ever changing, it’s so hard to been seen, let alone to continue to create influence. Zandra Rhodes collection was more than a celebration it was a testament to success within fashion. So Zandra, congratulations on the collection, once again you have our attention. Please proceed.

Emma Ellen

 

PPQ  ‘Forgetful Dynasty’

The atmosphere at the PPQ SS16 had a sense of the unexpected. Whilst waiting for the show to begin, you just didn’t know what you were about to see. It was the unexpected mood that designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker aimed to achieve with their collection entitled ‘Forgetful Dynasty.’

‘Forgetful Dynasty’ is a representation of another world. It tells the story of a ‘lost dynasty who haunt the refections of their former estate.’ The story represents a dynamic scene of bold shapes and patterns, inspired by Chinese prints and colours, which provides the edge the story needs.

The grace and splendour of this Dynsaty is seen in the flowing fabrics of the garments – Grecian style gowns that frame the wearer’s forms and trail in their wake and in the feminine slimming silhouette of each piece. Yet as feminine as each look is, there is a dark tone and harshness that contrasts to it. Leather jackets, sharp necklines and the use of black help fuel this tone.

PPQ defines itself on designs that are bold and cutting-edge, with strong silhouettes and loud prints. Their SS16 show fell nothing short of this as they aimed to not let you forget this dynasty.

Emma Ellen

 

 

Bora Aksu 

Romantic retro vibes hit the catwalk at Bora Aksu for SS16, with ethereal glamour and a candy colour palette dominating the collection, in a celebration of colour and light. Models adorned with intricate facial lace swept down the runway wearing romantic ruffled dresses in sheer organza and lace, in shades of soft ballet pink and clean, crisp white, looking like 21st century debutantes on the way to a ball. Aksu mixed these feathery fabrics with a stronger, more structured look too; sending models out in floaty white dresses in silk tulle, paired with sharp, tailored cotton jackets.

This delicate vibe contrasted sharply with the riotous explosion of colour towards the end of the collection, with acid yellows, hot pinks and zingy corals in crocheted lace making their mark, in statement maxi dresses and towering flower crowns, that took us straight to a sun-soaked 1970s summer.

The inspiration for this magical collection came from Aksu’s own memories of summers growing up in Izmir, where the lush gardens offered stunning colours at dawn, while the latter part of the collection was inspired by 20th century photographer Etheldreda Laing, famed for the vivid colours captured in her images. Vintage-inspired, super sophisticated and just a little bit other-worldly, this was certainly one of Aksu’s most enchanting collections to date.

Laura Hudson

 

Jean-Pierre Braganza

Jean-Pierre Braganza served up sensual daywear with a twist for his SS16 collection; think office-appropriate separates in entirely inappropriate fabrics. Slinky silks, leather and feathers all made an appearance, alongside more practical fabrics too, for a powerful but feminine collection.

Models paraded down the catwalk in a slick black collection, showcasing plunging necklines and risqué hemlines – including an oh-so sexy longline waistcoat dress that threatened to bare all, and thigh-skimming shorts paired with an elegant duster coat.

A brighter side of the collection showcased a more wearable look, with fluid painted silks in bold blues, reds and yellows dominating the runway. Shapes were sharp, sleek and powerful whilst looking almost weightless as they flowed on the catwalk – a perfect look for when you want to feel and look like the #bossbitch.

Laura Hudson

 

Molly Goddard

A factory line of sandwich-makers set the scene for British designer Molly Goddard’s kitsch SS16 collection, with inspiration coming from the gloomy weather of the late English summer, and the artificially bright sandwiches served by the models (seriously, the fillings matched the outfits to perfection!).

Models were swathed in frothy sheer tulle prom dresses, all created with Goddard’s signature; an offbeat, punky, oversized silhouette, in acid-green tulle and salmon pink, with ruffles and layers aplenty, and details including frilled sleeves and embroidered flowers.

Alongside this were slightly sleeker shapes, with tartan smocks and retro-inspired babydoll dresses in muted tones of soft grey, faded pink, cream and burgundy, all with that signature playful vibe. Goddard harked back to summers past too, with smocked cotton two-pieces, complete with knickerbocker shorts, in utilitarian colours. The perfect collection for that inevitably rainy English summertime!

Laura Hudson

 

Felder Felder

The Felder Felder SS16 show had an incredible lightness to it, and it was all down to the textiles and colour palette. The show opened in iridescent shades of blue, with tailored separates that caught the light- at once romantic and modern. The lines were sharp (suit jackets and cut-out detailing), with a lack of frills or over-appliqué. Instead the Felder sisters let colour inserts, light-handed prints and textures do the talking; from light knits and lace-cuts, to hidden linings and tropical imagery in faint colours that anchored the collection in spring/summer.

Will Ballantyne