Kilian Kerner

Inspired by a recent visit to Ireland, Kilian Kerner presented earthy greens, oranges and browns, botanical prints and pleats aplenty. The bold prints have been adapted from photographs taken by Kerner whilst staying in Dublin.

It wasn’t just the landscape that inspired the AW15 collection but Kerner’s feelings of security while he was there. This was explored in many dimensions from slouchy blanket ponchos and wraps to the camouflage-like nature of the prints and tough officewear in wide pin stripes.

Both womenswear and menswear were decidedly androgynous with both men and women sporting boxy, suit jackets and pleated skirts. The abstract prints were also seen across both genders.

More than just a red carpet favourite, Kerner has created a beautiful, sophisticated and intelligent collection for beautiful, sophisticated and intelligent men and women.

Odeur

The Swedish brand combines two of the coolest style tribes in the world to create cult-worthy pieces: classic Nordic minimalism and Japanese street edge.

The AW15 collection was classically black, white and grey and featured no-nonsense, straight, loose fitting clothing. Rigid features such as high necks and thick, choker collars were paired with softer designs including translucent maxi dresses for both men and women.

A slogan sweater dress with the definition of ‘contrast’ and a mathematical formula to create it brought the message home that when it comes to dressing, opposites are always effective.

Sadak

A fusion of traditional Balkans dress, Indian chintz pattern and hip hop culture has given Sasa Kovacevic’s label a tribal spirit for AW15. Oversized shirts and hoodies, baggy basketball shorts and coat sleeves that smothered the models’ arms punched a lot of swag, as did the tattoo-like prints that covered almost every piece of clothing. A broad figure was created with exaggerated sleeves and t-shirts were elongated to create tunics. Vivid orange brought energy and athleticism to the collection.

The fabrics in the collection may all be organic, but this isn’t for softies. This is warrior style!

So Popular

Bondage is back for menswear label So Popular. The models stomped out with slicked back hair and black strips painted across their mouths. Leather shorts, trousers and tunics had a fetishist vibe, ropes twisted across the front of jumpers and an eyebrow-raising waterproof cape in white plastic was the only splash of a colour other than black.
Trousers were low in the crotch and high on the ankle and a casual wool jacket surprised with traditional tails on the back, demonstrating the designer’s craft for mixing classic tailoring into an urban uniform.

Although Berlin-based Daniel Blechman has been around for twelve seasons, this is his first show on the main runway at Berlin Fashion Week and he’s chosen a dramatic collection to show that’s sure to leave an impression.

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