NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (6) SS15
Thursday 11th September 2014
|In Runway
This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at New York Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.
Vivienne Hu
Vivienne Hu’s Spring ’15 collection ranges from edgy to feminine with looks consisting of leather cut out sheath dresses to flowing, pleated dresses in soft hues. Hu showed a lot of diversity in her designs to appeal to a larger audience of women.
The most notable piece to hit the runway was the final look—a contemporary take on a wedding gown with a satin top and tulle skirt with flower detailing on the high-slit hemline.
MM6 Maison
Japanese culture meets American country western was the theme of MM6 Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Geisha-style exaggerated platform shoes were paired with oversized jackets, our favorite being the denim patchwork coat.
The first few pieces that walked down the runway are what dazzled us the most – A clear latex dress layered over a long slip and what looked to be a baby blanket wrapped around the shoulders the same way you see plenty of pro golfers and yachting enthusiasts wear their sweaters. The icing on the cake, however, was a red bandana triangle top that you probably rocked as a teenager in the nineties. Only this one was made of rubber. Overall, there was a healthy amount of experimentation in this collection.
Noon by Noor
It was a mélange of color palettes for Spring 2015 at Noon by Noor. The designers didn’t confine themselves to a narrow scheme or the expected spring rainbow of
washed-out pastels. Their collection of masculine, sporty separates and oversized evening wear provided a blank canvas for colors and prints that draw inspiration
from nature; lush landscapes of mossy florals, burgundy foliage, yellow sunshine and coral sunsets popped on leather, mesh, silk and satin. The epicene cuts, tailoring
and flats were juxtaposed by the more feminine watercolor pastels, vivid prints, and pops of silver, metallic and plexi floral appliques.Black and white was also a substantial element in solids as well as a dreamy floral print that grounded the collection as it appeared sporadically in voluminous gowns,
roomy sportswear, and boxy dresses. The collection is perfectly tailored to the androgynous, but still effeminate woman, using color, texture and distinct lines to
exhibit style, and avoiding a more traditional display exposing the female silhouette.
washed-out pastels. Their collection of masculine, sporty separates and oversized evening wear provided a blank canvas for colors and prints that draw inspiration
from nature; lush landscapes of mossy florals, burgundy foliage, yellow sunshine and coral sunsets popped on leather, mesh, silk and satin. The epicene cuts, tailoring
and flats were juxtaposed by the more feminine watercolor pastels, vivid prints, and pops of silver, metallic and plexi floral appliques.Black and white was also a substantial element in solids as well as a dreamy floral print that grounded the collection as it appeared sporadically in voluminous gowns,
roomy sportswear, and boxy dresses. The collection is perfectly tailored to the androgynous, but still effeminate woman, using color, texture and distinct lines to
exhibit style, and avoiding a more traditional display exposing the female silhouette.
Concept Korea – Leyii by Seunghee Lee
The tailored cuts and unique silhouettes at Leyii captured the modern high society woman in simple, mostly solid separates that gave the female form structure without losing femininity. The genius in Lee’s design was the minimalistic details that completely changed traditional tailored separates into thought-provoking shapes and silhouettes. Unusual hemlines, sheer solids and unexpected cut-outs delivered a subdued, almost snuck-in sex appealBrightly-colored jewel-tones were grounded with black and white solid separates and the occasional muted micro-print and textured metallic. The focus was on
asymmetric lines, seams, unique details and structured draping that went against the grain, giving the woman a flattering new shape that is totally unexpected.
asymmetric lines, seams, unique details and structured draping that went against the grain, giving the woman a flattering new shape that is totally unexpected.
Concept Korea -Beyond Closet by Tae Yong
The collection was aptly titled “School Gang,” and that is exactly what Yong delivered. The menswear collection immediately sparked memories of prep-school uniforms, letterman jackets and collegiate outerwear, but with a significant and provocative influence from the “street”. Mocking the traditional schoolboy uniform, the collection represented the ‘bad-boy’ hipster who ditched class and cruised downtown on his skateboard, listened to the latest club beats and cut-a-rug in break-dancing competitions.Vivid red, blue, moss green and black were mixed and matched in sharp lines, bold prints, and cartoonish graphics on knits, leather and crisply pressed separates. It was a youthful collection aimed at the fashion-forward pop-culture male.
Concept Korea –Resurrection by Juyoung Lee
SS 2015 for Resurrection meant a completely colorless palette, with focus entirely on textures and details. Black, white and grey filled the collection of mesh, sheer and solid fabrics, putting the spotlight on textures and disproportionate separates.
Oversized torso lengths and sleeves, boxy shapes, and leather with silver hardware gave the collection a gothic, slightly punk feel. Every look in the collection was in monochromatic grey-scale, making the heart of the collection the leather S&M-like details, flashes of skin, unusual proportions and the androgynous-rather-than-uniquely-male delineation of style.
Diesel Black Gold
Let’s be honest we’d probably give up our first born to own this collection. Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad injected his Spring/Summer 2015 collection with a whole lot of rock and roll and leather to boot. Carolina Herrera may hate on crop tops, but Melbostad knows how to make a great bralette.
Supermodels Coco Rocha and Petra Nemcova along with singer Rita Ora were sitting front row at the show while models walked the runway wearing vivid hues of icy blue, red and dare we say black? The collection included a little bit of everything from flouncy A-line cut dresses to cropped denim jeans, to wraparound tops. We could definitely see Rita Ora rocking some of these pieces on her next tour.
Naeem Khan
Naeem Khan, a favorite of celebrities on the red carpet and socialites on the step and repeat, delivered gala-ready looks this Wednesday. With a collection that included floral patterns, stripes, sparkles, graphic designs, and delicate lace, Khan didn’t focus his designs on a single aesthetic concept but instead suggested with each piece a vision of old Hollywood glamour.Khan delivered a show of exceptionally strong individual pieces that featured his trademark elements of design—intricate beading, extraordinary craftsmanship, and bold color. Separates that began the show, like black sequined shorts and a geometric patterned sweater, were overshadowed by the ballgowns and slinky satin dresses that followed down the runway. Standout pieces included a gold form-fitting gown, a bright red satin dress that clung to the model’s ankles, and a white sequined jumpsuit and matching cropped jacket with plumes of feathers billowing from the sleeve. Front row guests like Connie Britton and Bravo’s Padma Lakshmi were without a doubt eyeing their next premiere look–it was hard not to notice the “ooh’s and ahh’s” coming from the audience as Khan debuted a visually stunning spring collection.
Pamella Roland
Pamella Roland presented her Spring/Summer ’15 collection as straightforward classics, in a palette of soft muted tones contrasted with complimentary blues and some impressionistic floral patterns. Delineating the waist, Roland presented pieces that were cinched, sashed, and even feathered. Strapless dresses were draped across the waist in oversized sashes, and a high waist jumpsuit with cut outs looked modern and cross-generational. Notables were the cream lace dresses in flesh undertones, exposing daring décolletage, and a flirty blue halter dress with cut outs added youthful appeal to the collection. The Roland woman knows these garments aren’t a renttherunway moment to post on instagram, but a conventional collection they can relate to and wear overtime.