LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (1) SS15
This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.
J. JS Lee
Opening London Fashion Week, Korean designer JJS Lee gave us the modern woman’s office wardrobe for SS15 with her signature architectural minimalism. Exaggerated, peaked cuffs, high-low hemlines and stiff pleats meant serious business while sickly sweet buttercream orange and green colours avoided it becoming overly masculine.
Her first foray into prints were created from pressed flowers which were scanned and manipulated to make scattered, abstract petal shapes in deep blue that will appeal to easy-going style lovers.
The real stars of the show though were the bags. Square grab bags with acrylic picture frames crossing over the leather to create the handle were utterly desirable and yet understated. Perfectly complementing the strong lines of the collection, they gave the outfits impact and a futuristic attitude.
JJS Lee always manages to make androgynous look empowering without being intimidating or overtly sexy and SS15 promises more of the same to fill our wardrobes with wear-and-go pieces that still get noticed.
Felder and Felder
Nature’s the thing when it comes to this collection; a mix of popping prints and blank white canvases. Felder and Felder’s latest collection is aimed at the flourishing young woman without a care. Think holiday wear, Rivera holidays and beach cruises. Loose but structured garments make up this collection which include crop tops, short dresses and funky summer coats.
The first set of looks all feature tie dye like printing or metallic bottoms. The tie dye prints are reminiscent of leopard or snakeskin. Free flowing dresses are also thrown into the mix, some even merge different fabrics together: sheer white paneling connects with vibrantly decorated material. Natural shapes and patterns embrace flowing fabrics and long legs.
The light must always give way to dark shades, leather jackets, textured co-ords and elegant netting present themselves on the runway. Some elements scream cowboy; such as fringing on jackets, leather skirts and bold leather boots.
Glittering embellishments and garments soon take center stage. Shimmering dresses and skirts hug hips. Overall the collection mixes earthy tones such as brown, red, green and yellow with fun and comfy garms. The bohemian like freshness of this assortment of garments truly captures the true spirit of young summer.
Daks
This dream like collection uses pale and sheer tones to create an almost ethereal look on the female form. Intermixed with more casual and work wear based looks, some of the collection outshines these plain pieces. These very looks are quite contemporary, adult, smart and prim, but this elaborate and appealing use of organza and other sheer fabrics create a near futuristic look. Pussybow shirts that create an umbrella of material over the wearer’s crown. Leather and other shiny fabrics also arise throughout the show.
Blues, whites, purples and grays make up the sublime palette, most of the hues used are quite saturated and almost flow from one garment to the next like an alternate colour wheel.
Asymmetric tops, shirts, tailored trousers and midi dresses also featured in this collection. There is a delicious mac in a pearlescent white with a curved cape piece, which is definitely the showstopper of this show.
Eudon Choi
Prairie dresses and ditsy Laura Ashley-style prints gave Eudon Choi’s SS15 show a girlish, country feel. Cuffed trousers, frilled hems and billowing trench coats added to this vibe but true to the designer’s more structured tendencies, deep-V suit jackets and cigarette trousers toughened up the looks.
Some pieces mixed the pastel florals with stark contrast black features such as the backs of trousers or sleeves for something that drew a little more intrigue. Pinafore straps and buttoned up backs were also nice touches of detail.
Closing the show, oversized plain white and black shirt dresses down to the ankle gave the ‘pyjama style’ trend a new twist and with a little more styling could probably avoid making someone look like they were on day release from the asylum.
Fyodor Golan
Fashion and tech have always had their little parities. Not necessarily in the sense that clothes are one day going to be made of nuts and bolts, but then again, the Fyodor Golan brand might change that. Bringing back the heavy tech laden fascinations of the 90s in the form of vibrant neons and prints that you wouldn’t necessarily see in a collection (red poppies, perhaps; American football players adorned in orange uniforms in a scrum, perhaps not), the duo atFyodor Golan were certainly willing to show a new version of the Fyodor Golangirl, and, briefly, the boy, thanks to those his n hers looks. With kitschy-neo-rave pieces that really stood out – think metallic co-ords for the guys and gals, long strands of fabric skewing to the side in a fish tail effect adorned with neon strips of colour, and the various shimmering printed stripes – it was apt that the huge inverted pyramid behind the models was projecting a distorted, glitched live stream, which reflected the colour blocking reminiscent of those blocked standby screens on televisions in horror films; all of these little techno features made the awkward yet still intriguing silhouettes that shot away from the body as if repelled by some odd magnetic force even more pleasing. However, that’s not to say there is wearability – after all, this is a ready-to-wear collection. Maybe it’s time to take out the glow sticks – anyone for a rave?
Christopher Raeburn
The site of a plane crash in the jungle may not seem like it translates well as inspiration for a new fashion collection but Christopher Raeburn spun out another edgy and interesting show using exactly that..
Despite the repetition of styles – bomber jackets, loose Bermuda shorts, shirt dresses with sheer hems, structural parker coats and backpacks – each look had its own distinct personality.
The entangled ladder strips, hinting at ropes and vines, in bright khaki and black gave curves and texture to the sporty collection. Prints of maps and faded jungle leaves were muted to fit in with the military colour scheme of stone, black, and khaki but drew you in to observe them further. Square heat transfers that were jumbled on dresses and tops referenced plane control boards to complete the story.
A highly narrative set, preluded by overhead aeroplane noises, complemented Raeburn’s SS15 menswear collection presented this June to complete the story with a twist on womenswear that feels incredibly in touch with the current zeitgeist.
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