LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (2) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

Lulu & Co 

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This youthful and adventurous collection brings the best of colour and pattern to the fashion medium. Exuberant and mischievous graphic prints are splurged over casual tees, shorts, dresses, tailored trousers, skirts and cute jackets. The shapes incorporated into the surface decoration include spots, lines, splodges and planetary symbols. The eye of Horus also pops up from time to time. Who doesn’t want the ancient Egyptian sign of royal power on their threads? No one, that’s who.

Models pose, their apparel exudes a sporty but flirty vibe, with items ranging from tight and sassy to baggy and potent. Oranges, purples, blues, greens, reds and yellows dominate the majority of the garments on display. This blend of pattern, tone, colour and print is challenged through the use and combination of the lot, each melts into one another and creates one solid and quirky surface design.  One major summer trend is monochrome and Lulu and Co have not left this out of their latest compilation, one of the most feminine pieces in the lot is an enticing low neck dress with an a-line skirt.

-Deborah Ajia

Markus Lupfer 

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We arrived at Bondi Beach for Markus Lupfer’s spring/summer 15 presentation. Of course not literally Bondi Beach – a studio space near King’s Cross on a cloudy London day in fact – but inside, the sun was shining.

Models danced, chatted and smiled around a VW camper van in shining metallics in vibrant purple and orange fluoro. Amongst the palm trees a beach bar was set up and the all-blonde model cast pouted playfully for cameras through their colourful, mirrored sports shades.

Further sporty touches were added with exposed zips running down tops and dresses and jewel embellished jelly shoes completed the fun-time looks. Wrap around, asymmetrical mini-skirts and loose, half buttoned down shirts were as relaxed as their beachy, free-flowing hair.

Let the good times roll!

-Olivia Pinnock

Sibling

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For SS15 the trio behind Sibling showed us a collection very much true to their quirky yet recognisable sense of style. The oversized boys atop their models sleep hair and a hint of red lipstick accentuated the collection’s playful and innocent side. Known for their knitwear Sibling presented us with some bold coloured graphic prints, flirty frills and the way to unusual evening wear. Of course there were some fantastic knitwear pieces in the midst of the collection but characterised by their delicateness and lightness. The collection was every street style woman’s dream being intricate, bold and yet super wearable. Brogue flats included.

-Charlotte Natter

Hunter

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When you think of the quintessentially British brand Hunter, you immediately think of boots, camping and festivals, key parts of a traditional British summer. This compilation of outfits is an extension of such and takes inspiration from the army, using dusky greens, greys and browns on masculine silhouettes. It’s a truly unisex collection with a mature feel. When bright lilacs are introduced to the collection, this is where it really gets interesting. The macs, waterproofs and shorts become much more engaging in style and colour. Graphic prints of black, silver and blue bring an almost 80’s feel to the otherwise drab styling presented. The final piece caught my eye the most; a psychedelic waterproof poncho dress.

-Deborah Ajia

 

Holly Fulton

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

The queen of ladylike prints didn’t disappoint at London Fashion Week as she opted for Mosaic-like flower shapes in strong black on white, grey and yellow. Far from flat, the collection also featured the strong print shapes in embellished beads for a touch of shine mixed with PVC strips and crop tops.

Mid-length skirts and thick crossover straps were elegant. Folky without being bohemian, the luxe wool and silk fabrics demonstrated great quality pieces that feel great to wear while the Eastern vibe of the shapes incorporated traditional elements with international appeal.

Block heel sandals and round sunglasses tapped into current trends with the styling but the womanly outlines made this a collection to last.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Antipodium

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Jean-Luc Brouard
Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Jean-Luc Brouard

There’s legitimately something refreshing when a brand showcases it’s new collection that encapsulates the idea of “ready-to-wear” – if your clothes have to be put in to stores in six months because of tweaking, it’s not exactly ready to wear, is it? Trust Antipodium, then, to present something that you could most definitely wear, right out of the presentation should you wish! It was an easy affair, the offerings for the new season; pastel shades of sorbet colours and citrus-y brights dominated, injected with the staple black and whites that every good collection needs. The silhouette, whilst minimal, was definitely for today’s girl – fresh lines, cool styling a quirks (see: shirts tucked in to waistbands and unbuttoned all the way, buckled collars under crisp shirt collars, and so on), and the unmistakably grungy way everything stayed together. Maybe it’s a new approach for Antipodium, and it’s an approach that paid off – from the dishevelled hair down to the sports sandals, everything about this girl said that she was powerful. And you don’t mess with a powerful girl – after all, if she’s a part of the Antipodium gang, she’s definitely going to kick you ass.

Colin Dawidziuk

 

J.W. Anderson

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

J.W. Anderson’s collection for SS15 was certainly a step away from his previous rather dark collections and showed us a much lighter take on fashion. Layering dominated much of the collection in combination with wide-brimmed floppy hats made entirely out of black leather. The collection had a certain nautical feel to it withAnderson using navy, whites, and leathers (in black and tan) as well as showcasing stripes and gold buttons in several of his pieces. The use of leather in soft, tailor tops and waistcoats as well as the perfectly tailored trousers the designer send down the catwalk are a reminder of Andersons beginnings in men’s wear and his signature “Things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man.” This was maybe one of Anderson’s most wearable collections, however he continues to push and challenge his creativity and continues his exploration of fashion.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Nasir Mazhar
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The Nasir Mazhar show was a real step-up for the designer. The logomania for which he has made his name was treated with more subtlety than before (…it’s relative), woven into drapery, hung in panels and fixed in metallic inserts, whilst the colour scheme was rich with Byzantine jewel tones, flashes of neon and glitch-effect prints.
This cyber-luxe theme took hold across the collection, almost superseding the streetwear influence always so present in Mazhar‘s work. Models were styled with graphic make-up and headgear, with a vibe that hit somewhere between manga-videogame-empress and a techy Princess Leia.
The cut of the clothes took the collection to the next level and the drapery added a visual layer without losing the effortlessness and street influence of the beand. The simple crop tops of previous collections were embellished this season with corset detailing and structure, levelled by Lycra trains and stretch-inserts. By balancing the cheek of East London with nods to a more luxe aesthetic, Mazhar has given us a preview of how far his label can go.

 

House of Holland
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One of the problems with SS15 is that it is unleashed upon the city just as the seasons are changing, and as summer is becoming a distant memory. All signs point towards winter and yet, the collections are often designed with the beach in mind. Henry Holland seemed aware of this balancing act with his House ofHolland collection this season, presenting a vision of summer that overlaid hippie prints and colour schemes with clean, preppy silhouettes and separates. This was a show that spoke of a more appropriate (and relatable) vision ofspring/summer, somewhere between the East Coast-quirk of the Hamptons and a Seventies-based Indian Summer.
The prints were decorative and enchanting, with paisley and Eastern motifs amongst neon geometric prints that had a hint of Bridget Riley. There was a touch of Wes Anderson and his iconic Margot Tenenbaum in the candy-coloured striped polo shirts, Seventies vibe, side partings and kohl-lined eyes. Flashes of metallic added little to the collection but the blending of prints was refreshing and playful.
Holland does wearable well, and his prints are even better. With this collection, he once again knocked it out of the park.

 

 

Lucas Nascimento 
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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

Graduating from his usual spot at Rio Fashion Week, NEWGEN recipient Lucas Nascimento made a sophisticated arrival at London Fashion Week. Saharan minimalism for SS15 came in the form of clean cut silhouettes in bright sunset hues of orange, sky blue, navy and yellow. Soft leather made a regular appearance in loose shift dresses and collarless jackets. Off-centre folds revealed flashes of contrasting colours from the inside of garments and half-leg skirts layered over trousers contributed to the trend for asymmetry in this collection. Sheer palazzo trousers and draped tops made us dream of lounging in the hareem but modern detailing including drawstring toggles and cut-away sleeves made the show ultimately about crisp and contemporary fashion.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

 MARCHESA
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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette
Led by Georgia May Jagger, Marchesa served up a fairytale of stunning embroidered detail, luxe embellishment and frothy, whimsical seventies-inspired shapes. The house, focused on what they do best – high-end craftsmanship presented in a highly wearable red carpet dress.
With slightly oversized shapes, loose cuts and soft silhouettes, the Marchesa woman this season was a relaxed flower child, heavily embellished, with nature-inspired embroidered print and breathtaking beading that glimmered along the runway.
Looks of note were a short forest green embroidered dress, which although oversized made a uniquely flattering cut. Then a whisper of a delicately sheer, rose petal pink dress, plunging at the neckline yet demure on the bottom half. Expect fashion editors to be fighting over this one.

 

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