FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on Twitter, Facebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

 

Sister by Sibling

We will move on from elephant in the room (shoes) to focus on what Sibling actually came to do – to bring us innovative and modern knitwear with a playful and fun edge. The styling of the collection felt gothic and 70’s with large wide-brimmed fedoras, long hemlines and crocheted capes. The knitwear ranged from the intricate and spidery knits to the more wearable pieces such as the thicker knitted sweaters, jackets and the crocheted skirts. This was a brave and adventurous collection for Sibling and it’s success now depends on the interest and sales generated, despite the obvious setbacks the catwalk show faced.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

J.W. Anderson

This was an interesting one from J.W Anderson – a designer who’s aesthetic and fashion status is increasingly on the rise. In this collection there were strong silhouettes in the shape of high necks, wide sleeves, pleated / draped mid-calf hemlines, low necklines, huge obi-style belts and large funnel-necks. The fabric felt raw in parts and luxurious in others with a few subtle prints and some textured fabrics to add variation. The pieces themselves were more like sculptures than wearable clothes and the whole collection felt more like an art show than a feasible commercial collection. Although we are big JW Anderson fans, we’re holding out for next season.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Richard Nicoll

Nicoll’s collection felt strongest when he stuck to the signature colour of the collection – royal blue. With panels of royal blue scattered throughout the looks, with dipped blue panels screen-printed onto denim or in outfits of head to toe blue, or just peeping out from under an oversized shirt. Then even sometimes it could be seen simply in the shoe that the model was wearing, then the result was uniform, well thought-out and strong. There were smatterings of pink, gold and red used in the collection also, but these faded away against the blue pieces that we’d seen earlier. The grey items, although helping to create balance, again seemed to fade into the background in contrast to the boldness of the blue. The blue was also unexpectedly seen in textures of sequins, metallics and sheen, it reminded me of a day in the Majorelle gardens of Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech, with the sporty vibe of a ski resort and some classic british ladylike chic thrown in for good measure.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Holly Fulton  Holly Fulton knows the woman who buys her clothes. Season upon season, she has a clear design identity and her latest collection was yet another expression of this. Opening in pastel shades of robin’s egg blue and blush, the clothes had a lightness to them, with sheer fabrics, dropped waists and an easy prettiness. As the show progressed, embroidery and appliqué allowed for an interesting play of texture, whilst ornamental detailing was rendered in Art Deco designs that felt, if not fresh, at least young and feminine. As the palette became richer, with black and dark rose pink introduced for separates and inserts, a faint houndstooth print gave the collection more range without losing the lightness of the opening looks. Some of the looks with drop-waists, pastel prints and bejeweled necklines seemed to take a bit too much reference from Prada collections of the past, but Fulton has a design aesthetic all of her own. Was it groundbreaking? No, but the buyers- and her clientele-will be happy with this season’s results.

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid

 

John Rocha John Rocha’s autumn/winter 14 show kicked off with a rock soundtrack and dramatic outfits but it stayed true to the romanticism that we all expect from the veteran London Fashion Week designer. Ginormous ruffle collars, tiered dresses and multi-layer skirts were made for fun and frolicking and there were no prizes for spotting that flowers were the central inspiration point. Petal-like headpieces cocooned the models and A-line cocktail dresses were dotted with individual flower heads. It was toughened up with a strong black, rose red and bottle green colour palette for the darker months and rough textures were created with netting, lace and crochet. Unfinished seems hinted towards an arts and crafts aesthetic too.

The frills and flounce were intertwined with currently popular styles such as loose-fitting palazzo pants and oversized coats for a collection that was, overall, a steady but beautiful transition into the new season.

Words by Olivia Pinnock

 

Palmer Harding

I remember meeting Palmer / Harding during their first ever London Fashion Week season a few years back, where they were showing on a stand inside of Somerset House. Their focus was the humble white shirt, which they executed perfectly with absolute clarity and obsession. I remember thinking to myself  ‘watch this label’, because the attention to detail was so acute and the designers themselves some of the nicest people that I’ve met in fashion. Now here we are, menswear and womenswear wrapped up under the Palmer / Harding label and a runway show in full swing. They’ve remained true to their roots, with the shirting and various aspects of their tailoring aesthetic, used throughout in the pieces. A minimal style carried the more complex pieces through the collection and a restricted colour palette was a smart move in terms of commercial success. My favorite look was the white ‘tasseled’ skirt suit that was both a nod to the labels past and then to their future.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

House of Holland

House of Holland, to me, sums up young British style. It’s quirky, it’s playful and very tongue in cheek. This new AW14 collection felt more grown up in parts than his previous seasons, with full silk skirts, some sophisticated dresses and then a few dressy shirt / top combo’s. Then there were the pom pom shoes, the backpacks and the slogan / provocative t-shirts, plus cutesy prints for more of a nod to Henry’s signature, fun style. Has the Henry Holland girl grown up? No. But in a sea of minimalism with everyone following strong silhouette’s this season, it’s nice to see someone not afraid to let rip and enjoy themselves. And isn’t that really what British style is all about?

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg’s collection was a political affair: models opened the show with placards declaring it a dedication to Pussy Riot, no pieces from it are for sale, and even the PR girls wore t-shirts emblazoned with ‘Pussy Riot Rule.’ As the show unfolded, it ran with a current of anarchic energy- from the riot of colour, the subversive model choice (East London fashion-kids Andy Bradin and Josh Quinton amongst others) and the soundtrack of protest anthems and punk tracks. Aside from this political punch, Hogg’s designs made a real statement of their own. Allowing herself to breakaway from the metallic jumpsuit that has become her label trademark, some looks took on a New Romanticism with rose embellishment, ornate headpieces and full-scale ballgowns that combined intricate detailing with a punk spirit. This show was an event- a protest, a celebration, a show of support (with Simon LeBon, Stephen Jones, Rankin et al. in attendance.) Even without the political message at the heart of the collection, the clothes could have stood alone. But in publicly paying tribute to Pussy Riot- in a collection entitled ‘Courage’- Hogg’s designs took on a special significance and made a sincere statement of allegiance.

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid