Check out what’s hot from Barcelona’s 080 fashion week
With Barcelona Fashion Week a popular choice for various fashion editors, I was extremely lucky to have attended two seasons at the Catalonian capital, and was once again, very impressed!
Going from strength to strength since 2007, the Catalan government is keen to promote its region’s talent. The 080 BCN fashion week, has developed a reputation as a well-respected industry showcase, with designers showing their collections for AW14 across a very organized five-day event.
Housed for the first time, at the new Cultural Centre in Born, the backdrop setting certainly helped to create striking ambiance; albeit in an unusual site for a fashion show! The location is a vital marker for celebrating Catalonia’s independence and it is a dominant marker of the old working with the new, and consequently a declaration of its widely-held desire for independence. With the catwalk circling an impressive focal point of the recently discovered crumbling walls of Roman ruins- a remnant from 1711, this certainly added to the mood and temperature of the Centre, which in keeping with the AW theme, was chilly! But the host of international models including Andrés Velencoso, Jon Kortajarena, River Viiperi, Clément Chabernaud, Baptiste Radute, Arthur Gosse, Stephen James, Juan Betancourt, Dalianah Arekion, Alba Carrillo, Malena Costa, Lieke van Houten and Marina Nery, helped keep the temperature up! Added to the fact that many collections focused on layering and knits, which was a bonus!
With 34 designers and brands showcasing their collections- the major players Custo Barcelona, Slazenger,, Desigual and Mango, were joined by independent labels including Naulover, Punto Blanco, TCN, Torras, Yerse, Txell Miras, Albéniz, Celia Vela, Aldomartins, Boboli, Condor, Georgina Vendrell, Josep Abril, Justicia Ruano, Krizia Robustella, Manuel Bolaño, Martinez Lierah, Miriam Ponsa, Natalie Capell, Oscarleon, Selim de Somavilla, Ssic & Paul and Zazo & Brull, as well as last season’s 080 Barcelona Fashion Award winner Brain & Beast, and Isabel Toledo who added a bit of international elegance.
With such a wide range of designers, there is certainly something for most tastes. There was a big divide between the mens and womenswear shows. The menswear designers definitely took on an edgy slant and would not be out of place in London. The womenswear was a lot more subtle, grown-up and commercial.
With a diverse mix of shows each day, we were spoilt by the ‘King of the Patterns’, Custo Barcelona. As usual, the collection was epic, with co-coordinating designs for boys and girls. We were shown daywear, evening wear and sports wear in many different combinations- and if you take away the layering, the looks could be styled in infinite different ways. Especially known for their graphic design and prints, you can be sure that to find something innovative, bold and urban- whether you take on the whole lifestyle approach, or go for something more refined.
Other key trends making their way to the surface across the collections was tweed and checks. Aldo Martins was not for the shy, berry colours and fitted knits rubbed shoulders with clashing prints and zebra was mashed up with tartan. My personal favourite was the 70s check two-piece trousers suit, reminiscent of The Bay City Rollers! For a more sophisticated take on the trend, Escorpion gave us sophisticated monochrome with dogtooth check and knits for girls, alongside wine coloured leather and an array of pencil skirts- cute and preppy! Manuel Bolano wowed us with red and green tartan for boys and girls, and TCN turned heads with boxy check bomber jackets, slip vests and lingerie. Layered with a polo neck, to break up the full look, this is something that is infinitely wearable and very versatile. Dogtooth appeared again at the Naulover show, with a smattering of dogtooth and 50s separates, which were given a modern touch by clashing the sizes of check.
With several designers putting the fun into fashion and creating for the little more adventurous, Zazo & Brull showcased pairs of male and female models donning matching simplistic yet voluminous outfits adorned with eye-catching metallic sculptures. Think futuristic wedding and you’re halfway there. Txell Miras’s collection was a punk- inspired revolution. Heavy on leather, pcv and knits, it was ultramodern. Using black, white and silver separates, it was full of attitude and clinical extremes. For those who like PVC, but isn’t a fan of Pam Hogg! Having a front row seat for one of my favourites from last season, Albeniz, was a treat, and he didn’t fail to disappoint. Entitled “Cavaliere”, the gorgeous models sashayed out in three colour ways of black, white and red. Highlights if I must choose are the see through shirts, yeti inspired coats, butter leather bomber jackets. One look, which took my breath away, was the white hair tuxedo jacket… If only there was a girl’s version!
With collections aimed at the great outdoors, Yerse tapped into the fisherman chic market, showcasing knits, knitted socks and silks. Taking us back to nature, the hats, snoods and preppy looks were great for a practical autumn and the berry colours are bound to complement the season.
On a more extreme weather front, Miriam Pronza took us to Tibet, where the men’s and women’s line was all about keeping warm in the winter. Loose knits, pinafores, braces and layered leather textures worked for both sexes and woolly trousers, crochet tops and belts were key trends. To complement the looks were clog-boots. Not sure how practical these would be in the real world, but they worked well on the catwalk.
Krizia Robustella, another favourite from last season, was inspired by the 90s, and her sports wear range was a tongue in cheek look at 90s ski and snow wear- complete with clashing graphic prints, the ranges were equally co-coordinating for boys and girls. With leggings, quilted jackets and lots of zips- this collection will certainly get you noticed on the slopes and nods to this season’s paintbox trend.
Barcelona is certainly making it’s mark on the international fashion map, and only being two hours away, might be more influential than we think!
Words: Sara Darling