LCM roundup: SS’ 14 Menswear – Tuesday 18th June
If the theme of day 2 at LCM was that of collections transcending genders, then the theme for day 3 proved to be somewhat of an antithesis to the movement. The stand out shows and presentations of the day came from the classic designers renowned for their gentlemanly shapes and styles. First up was the Tom Ford presentation.
Bold colours, streamlined shapes and hand embroidered details were key to the collection. FAULT Favourite Tom Ford introduced each look personally and gave insight in to the inspiration behind each piece. Perhaps most famed for his evening wear, Tom did not disappoint with the new collection, “This seasons jacket, developed from the one we created for Daniel Craig in the latest Bond film” was perhaps the most notable revelation, stand out pieces were the floral print trousers, hand embroidered slippers and brightly coloured suede jackets. “Soft shoes with everything” stated Tom.
James Long‘s collection was inspired by the cycling event the Helltrack, the influence was clear throughout. Mesh bomber jackets, lycra tops and bold striped sweaters all projected the sporting feel when paired with the mirrored sunglasses and Kurt Geiger sneakers.
Next it was the turn of Christopher Shannon whose collection drew influence from the early Northern super clubs. Glittering hair, floral prints, latex shirts and pvc high-waisted shorts came together to make up the bold, well-receieved collection. There was a certain nostalgia surrounding the looks but it was clear to all present, that Christopher is certainly looking forwards not backwards.
Burberry made the welcome return to London this season a decision that attracted substantial amounts of publicity. Of course Burberry stepped up to the plate and delivered as usual, proving that once again the hype surrounding the brand was deserved. Set in the beautiful Kensington Gardens, the star studded show reinforced the brands importance within menswear whilst also displaying an awareness of fashion history and the creativity stemming from certain individuals, notably David Hockney. Primary colours, polkadots and stripes all helped add a playful edge to the tailored collection.
Savile Row’s Chester Barrie presented a new collection delivering a more casual approach to fashion than their usual formal tailoring. Borrowing heavily from the shapes and aesthetics of the 80’s the collection looks set to bridge the gap between casual and formal wear.
Words & photographs by Louis Sheridan (Unless stated otherwise)