Kzeniya

FAULT: How would you describe the Kzeniya brand, and the thought process behind it? Looking at your degree (graduated from St Martin’s College of Art & Design) and your employment history (previously worked for Alexander McQueen), fashion is clearly something that you’re passionate about, but what is the story of how you came to develop the Kzeniya label?

Kzeniya: I’ve been interested in fashion since I was really small. I was fascinated by the ‘theatrical fashion’, dresses that look like costumes. Clothes and accessories that enhance your look, your perception, make you distinctive; make your interaction with the world appear like a performance on the stage. As a result I decided to study performance design at St Martins as opposed to fashion training. After graduation I designed set and costumes for many theatre productions, I was then designing and organising events with fashion installations and shows.  I spent a year researching new materials, technological innovations that could be used on clothes and accessories to break the link between a product as static ‘thing’ with a limited function and intractability and an ever changing, versatile surrounding and person wearing it.  I started developing 3D holograms on leather that change depending on the angle and light. I decided that a leather accessory is a perfect medium for my new prints. My first collection was for Spring Summer 2011.  I am now developing holographic prints further. Meanwhile I totally fell in love with accessories; it’s fascinating to see how people wear leather bags with bold metal hardwear which is almost fetishist and so sculptural.  It’s amazing to realise how a bag can alter someone’s look, enhance a figure. A woman can wear a simple black dress and statement bag and instantly satisfy both practicality and the striving for a unique style.

www.kzeniya.com

FAULT: Your website says that your products are ‘ethically-sourced’ –  could you go into some more detail?

Kzeniya: When I started my company I visited many factories and saw some with frankly appalling working conditions, unhygienic, unsafe, with bad treatment of their staff.  Today in the age when many business transactions are made by e-mail and internet sometimes you don’t know who you actually dealing with. I realised how important it is to make sure that my products are made with dignity, that suppliers that I work with respect the environment, that decent labour standards are met during the manufacturing of my products. I can now proudly say that my products are made in a small, family run factory, in a beautiful Spanish town by the sea. I outsource materials from Italian tanneries who also respect the same values.

FAULT: It is not overstating the case to say that some of your pieces are a triumph of the synergy between art and design. The bespoke 3D holographic prints give each piece the quality of artwork while the relative simplicity of your overall designs means that they are also eminently functional. But do you think that we are increasingly losing the practicality of design to the aestheticism of art?

Kzeniya: Sometimes it seems so, but when you start thinking about the history of fashion, when women used to wear tight corsets with the hair in the shape of ships and men used to wear lots of gear like stockings and wigs, you realise that actually our generation is very practical.

French colour changing wallet with flap and large claw spikes. £172

FAULT: Finally, what is your FAULT?

Kzeniya: I guess I can be a bit shy and insecure sometimes.