LUCAS SPONCHIADO

FAULT:: How has the response been since your debut last year?

Lucas:: I’m actually still studying at the moment. Last year’s collection was the result of my first year of the Master’s programme. I guess you could call it a “debut” since it was the first collection I’ve shown to the public and media since I completed my degree.

The response has been really good, it was also the first collection to receive feedback and press on the internet. I also won the Foundation Boghossian Prize which is to encourage me and help me financially with my work during my final year at La Cambre. I’ve done some interviews and appeared on different blogs, even the Vogue Italia blog. I have had good reviews, and some of the pieces – especially the shoes which were a big success – featured in different magazines. The shoes were the result of a collaboration with Joachim de Callatay. He is a brilliant shoe designer and we created the shoes together especially for my collection. So to cut a long story short…I guess the response has been very positive and encouraging.

FAULT:: Where did you find inspiration for this collection?

Lucas:: For this collection I have taken my inspiration from a woman of legend, a fairy tale and worked with a particular image, the representation of a certain idea of good and evil. This decision was inspired by Francis Ford Coppola’s “Dracula”, which encouraged me to investigate the historical aspects of the subject, and of course my own imagination.  

A historical approach influenced this idea of a woman shackled by protective or “closed” garments: her body completely covered. This also exteneded to other dimensions such as volumes (paniers), materials (orgy of fabrics and precious details), codes (collars, covered buttons…). I also found inspiration from historical graphic art with its’ blocks of color and masses of fabrics.

My imagination crystalised around the inspiring work of contemporary artists such as Le Moult, Jeff Van Tuerenhout, Philip Metten… These artists unveiled an imaginary world where a mysterious and powerful woman emerges. Their work helped me to establish certain elements of the collection such as the disposition of proportions, the mix of colors, textile choices, complex monotony, .. but also an attitude, a posture.

The vision of this powerful woman-creature inspired a certain replication of a particular anotomical construction expressed in the cut of the clothes, the way the fabric is rendered, the use of pleats, stiff structures, shoulder pads, bindings.. The anatomical inspiration, revealing skeletal structures, muscles and veins of the human body and imitation as pieces of armour or a carapace. 

FAULT:: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Lucas:: I think I would describe my design aesthetic as a fusion of rough and precious. An extreme femininity mixed with a sci-fi vision. A proud attitude – a strong posture merged with a romantic sensibility and a sense of darkness.

FAULT:: Which is your favourite piece and why?

Lucas:: That’s a very hard question to answer. I think that my favorite piece is the blue dress because I think it’s a good example of what I am trying to express in my work. At the same time it is also somehow simple, not too extravagant or wearable and I think that it makes the woman who wears it very mysterious and feminine.

FAULT:: You previously produced a menswear collection as part of your studies. Why did you decide to move into womenswear?

Lucas:: The menswear collection was a very interesting experience for me and I am very glad I did it. But womenswear is more appropriate for me. I feel able to express myself in womenswear but that does not mean that I will never work on menswear again…who knows.

FAULT:: Which fashion designers do you find influential?

Lucas:: I think the work of a lot of designers are wonderful and I don’t really like to say that this work or that one is more influential then another. I prefer to say that I am touched by this or that kind of expression and it certainly influences me in an unconscious way. I find the work of Alexander McQueen really inspirational and I love the work of Olivier Theyskens. Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu is also something that interests me.

FAULT:: What are you working on at the moment?

Lucas:: Right now I am working on my graduate and last collection as a “student” which will be shown in June at the annual show of La Cambre mode(s) in Brussels. I hope that this collection will provide some professional opportunities, I would love to work for a big label to gain more experience. And I would love to start my own label as soon as possible.

FAULT:: What is your FAULT?

Lucas:: I think that my FAULT can also be a quality, but I have to say this it one of my biggest problems. I am hardly happy when I work, I always think that I can take it further. It’s because of this “perfectionist” attitude I often have issues with organizational issues….but I’m working on that and it’s getting better.

Photography:: Pierre Debusschere

Hair and make up artist:: Florence Samain

Model:: Megan De Prins @ new models agency

Contact: ls.sponchiado@gmail.com