LFW SS18, Saturday 16th September, Day Two Highlights

JW Anderson

For his eponymous SS18 collection, JW Anderson drifted away from the rigid format of his usual shows and turned to a setting that went back to basics. The guests sat on chairs coiled around a stripped-back rustic installation that translated through to the tone of the clothes too. This collection was a stark contrast to JW Anderson’s previous, more abstract shows, instead, this season everything was so much more simple and wearable.

They came in the form of towel-textured dresses, minimalist two-pieces, deep V-necks and peek-a-boo detailing that reflected a state of undress. As well as cropped bardots, bralettes molded around the breasts – a decon-recon look that portrayed the plainest form of the art of construction. Keeping in line with this earthy palette, stripes ran vertically down the body ensuring this was the designer’s most wearable collection yet. And what was held under each models’ arm? Oh, next season’s ‘it’ bag, of course.

Lizzie Griffin

Markus Lupfer

Maybe the city actually takes a snooze whilst the girl never sleeps, ever thought of it like that? Markus Lupfer has. This collection was made for the woman addicted to her social life; too busy to sleep and with enough off-kilter glamour to practically be a part of old-Hollywood. Bold pinks, popping blues and jungle greens, psychedelic 3D florals, rainbows, butterflies and prints of monkeys swinging from tree to tree – it really was a collection to get lost in.

Living every minute in HD, models donned print-heavy blouses tucked into poolside hot pants and black sheer acted as an outer layer over skirts to add a slice of naughtiness. Hems were cropped to the calf to show off ballet-wrapped ankles, and models reclined on print-packed chairs donning huge sunglasses as if they were about to catch a tan – in their hedonistic-fuelled lives perhaps this was the only moment they could rest their eyes. With the world constantly shifting around us, Markus Lupfer’s girls were the only ones who can truly keep up with it all.

Lizzie Griffin

 

 

Jasper Conran

This season Jasper Conran looked to the outdoors for inspiration, designing a collection that had a fashionable practically. The focus- primary colours of blue and yellow with injections of bright greens, ripe oranges and frosty pinks as the clothes played with texture and silhouette. There was an undeniable athleisure element as models sauntered the runway in colour clashing sandals. Layering was key as translucent tops were worn under boxy bomber jackets and paired with cropped knee length crepe trousers. Sunny yellow camisoles and slip dressed were kept warm under toggled rain macs in shades of forest green and aquatic blue. Straying from the loose shapes, co-ord sets and fitted dresses in light knits featured diamond patterns and linear stripes that enhanced the figure, altogether achieving the hard balancing game of smart-casual. So what has this collection taught us? Colour blocking is back and should adorn the clothing of stylish Londoners who don’t mind getting caught in the rain.

Sarah Barnes

 

Simone Rocha

Another season, another stand out collection, as Simone Rocha’s SS18 show was like watching eclectically dressed dolls walk the runway. White satin dresses were toughened up with chunky pointed brogues, showing us how to be stylishly feminine yet masculine simultaneously. Deconstructed lace skirts were contradicted by shoulder-padded jackets that belted tight at the waist, all monochromatic but simply made colourful by texture. Simone’s love of sheerness sneaked in as garments featured netted panels exposing delicate skin on the models legs but off set by chunky earrings and hair clips. We cannot fail to mention the display of dark florals that floated down the runway. Whether it be the large scattered black flowers that adored dresses or the micro florals in buttery yellows and raw reds that covered sleeves, it is the newest trend to wear- topped off with a oversized laced collar so that you are truly one of Simone Rocha’s real life dolls.

Sarah Barnes

 

Ports 1961

Ports is well known for its sleek cuts and low key palette that is all wrapped up in a sharp cosmopolitan style. This season experimented with fringing and stripes in a collection that made us want to update our office wear instantly. Ports approached suiting in a serious manner, offering up an emerald green three-piece that showed off tailoring off to its best. Pleated skirts in crisp whites and yellows were styled with colour-coordinated tops and over sized pointed collars that pulled attention to the models necklines. T-shirt dresses were neatly covered in Mondrian style stripes in hues of yellow and blue, while the white office skirt was reborn in sheer fabric with thick checked fringing. Proving that what you wear to the office can be relaxed yet smart and that you cant go wrong with a pair of bold tasselled flats.

Sarah Barnes

LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (5) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

OSMAN

w

Starting with simple, monochrome daywear for sophisticats, the Osman show progressed with fringe detailing, fresh colours such as citrus green and peach, a striking watercolour splash print and oversized patchworks to show he still has the creative edge. Midi and maxi lengths were key along with off-the-shoulder necklines, strapless dresses and cut out shoulders. A fringed silver cape was a particular highlight along with a floor length, sheer black dress over a black body embellished with circles of beads.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Simone Rocha

w

Always a whirlwind of beauty and femininity, this season at Simon Rocha it came in the form of marabou trims, bright red flower prints and broderie anglaise. Sher mac coats with thick belts were a desirable twist on the classic and cute tea dresses were given multiple dimensions with cut out flower shapes embellishing the already floral print. Marabou skirt hems, trouser cuffs and sleeve edges harked back to old school glamour but avoided being too kitsch by keeping to a strict colour scheme of black and nude. Simple pumps and brogues were also trimmed with marabou while the layers of sheer tulle and organza that featured heavily in the collection were also tied in to the styling with headscarves covering the whole face and delicate, mid-forearm length gloves with lace trims.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Fashion East

w

Before we talk fashion, let’s get the giant elephant in the room out of the way. Yes a man fell through the roof during the show, yes he’s ok and an ambulance was called immediately, no he wasn’t a rogue paparazzi trying to get backstage shots, he was a construction worker from the building opposite. The audience was pretty a-gasp at the situation but the show must go on and once we were all assured the man was ok, the clothes were ready for review!

Helen Lawrence opened with deconstructed looks, vintage-style knitwear and super miniature skirts. Rough around the edges was the look with asymmetrical styles, green latex shapes dangling from garments and loose fitting tops and trousers.

Louise Alsop’s beachy sportswear of tulled parkas, slashed maxi dresses and spaghetti strap jersey midis was styled with dreadlocked hair and trainers for a laid back vibe. Lemon yellow bought energy to the black and white colour palette while tshirt dresses to the mid-thigh brought home a relaxed androgyny.

Ed Maler’s sexy cohort of pirates were a flamboyant and fanciful way to end the show. Knee high stockings, bandana headpieces, Victorian frilled waistlines, corset lacing up trouser legs and cuffs that draped over hands were the epitome of eccentric creativity. Above all it represented what Fashion East is all about; spotting raw, cutting edge talent and nurturing it to make the fashion brands of the future.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Meadham Kirchhoff 

w

Before we talk fashion, let’s get the giant elephant in the room out of the way. Yes a man fell through the roof during the show, yes he’s ok and an ambulance was called immediately, no he wasn’t a rogue paparazzi trying to get backstage shots, he was a construction worker from the building opposite. The audience was pretty a-gasp at the situation but the show must go on and once we were all assured the man was ok, the clothes were ready for review!

Helen Lawrence opened with deconstructed looks, vintage-style knitwear and super miniature skirts. Rough around the edges was the look with asymmetrical styles, green latex shapes dangling from garments and loose fitting tops and trousers.

Louise Alsop’s beachy sportswear of tulled parkas, slashed maxi dresses and spaghetti strap jersey midis was styled with dreadlocked hair and trainers for a laid back vibe. Lemon yellow bought energy to the black and white colour palette while tshirt dresses to the mid-thigh brought home a relaxed androgyny.

Ed Maler’s sexy cohort of pirates were a flamboyant and fanciful way to end the show. Knee high stockings, bandana headpieces, Victorian frilled waistlines, corset lacing up trouser legs and cuffs that draped over hands were the epitome of eccentric creativity. Above all it represented what Fashion East is all about; spotting raw, cutting edge talent and nurturing it to make the fashion brands of the future.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Buy FAULT Magazine’s Latest Issue Here 

Subscribe to FAULT Here

 

‘Dry & Dusty’ – a minimalist editorial shot in Beijing for FAULT Online

Matjaz Tancic001

Dress Simone Rocha
Flower Belt Masha Ma
Ring Chloé
Shoes Marni

Matjaz Tancic002

Jacket Stella McCartney
White Skirt Masha Ma
Shoes John Galliano

Matjaz Tancic004

White chiffon top Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci
Black leather skirt Loewe
Bangle Chloé
Heels Stella Luna

Matjaz Tancic009

Black Tank-top Tom Ford
Black Pants Neil Barrett
Black and White Sandals Longchamp

Matjaz Tancic005

Black pants all by Céline
White Sandals John Galliano

Matjaz Tancic003

Jacket, Pants all by Masha Ma
Heels Tom Ford

Matjaz Tancic006

White half-transparent dress, white skirt all by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

Matjaz Tancic010

Black Pants Neil Barrett

Matjaz Tancic007

White shirt Stylist’s Own
White sandals Alexander Wang

 

FAUSTO LEONI/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

MATJAZ TANCIC / PHOTOGRAPHER                                               http://WWW.MATJAZTANCIC.COM

CAMILLA WANG/ STYLIST

XIE TENG @LONGTENG/ MODEL

MARIA VITTORIA BORTOLUSSI / MAKE UP & HAIR http://www.mariavittoriabortolussi.com

London Fashion Week Highlights – Day 5

Words: Katlin Siil

The last day of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 was a beautiful finale to one of the strongest showcases we have seen in a while. Whilst the organisation of the shows was, as per usual, rather chaotic – the designers really outdid themselves. We take a look at the highlights from Day 5 and bid farewell to the fashion extravaganza that is London Fashion Week.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha inherited father John’s fashion genes. Her collections have gone from strength to strength and Tuesday morning’s sophisticated affair was a testament to her mature, developed and distinct style. Paying tribute to her two grandmothers, Rocha’s vision for Autumn/Winter 2013 is ladylike – think pretty-in-pink dresses, coats, skirt-suits, metallic tweeds and baby soft faux-fur tops and coats. A staple of Simone’s, and on trend this season, we also saw some PVC and technical materials, all shaped into covetable garments.

Roksanda Ilincic

Roksanda Ilincic

Roksanda Ilincic also channeled her more feminine side but, in keeping with her more solemn repertoire, referenced ghostly virgin brides and the more sinister side of fairytales. The candyfloss pink made another strong appearance and we’re starting to suspect a trend for the season. Roksanda was more into textures than usual: PVC, long haired faux fur, tweeds, silks and soft cable knits woven into skirts and tops. The collection stayed true to Ilincic’s aesthetic and passion for unusual lengths, shapes and silhouettes. There are only a handful of designers that can make a midi-length PVC balloon skirt look sexy and desirable and Ilincic is one of them.

Meadham Kirchhoff

Meadham Kirchhoff

Brothers Grimm, sailors, cleaners, Anna Karenina… those are just a mere few references we managed to count at Meadham Kirchhoff. We were once again presented with a full blown mixture of the historic, the real and the unreal, this time in a blacks and whites. It could have easy become a tacky mess, but the folk at Meadham Kirchhoff know the quality of good showmanship. The buyers may once again leave disappointed but the press sure enjoyed the ball, and we were among them.

Maria Crachvogel

Maria Crachvogel

Maria Crachvogel was not about surprises, or inventing something new. And I say that as a compliment. Too often have we – fashion editors and critics – come to expect something extravagant, new and groundbreaking, something that we can analyse for hours and deconstruct, forgetting what is the ultimate purpose of what we see on the stage: to stock people’s wardrobes! While a good show is always welcome (see previous paragraph), at the end of the day the designer must make a living by producing beautiful, wearable clothing with a distinct signature style. Maria Crachvogel’s feather-light draped collection of simple dresses, printed silk gowns, jackets and even trousers, was just that. You can instantly tell that it’s Crachovel, whether on the catwalk, shop floor, or worn by a friend to a dinner party. And that’s something that needs to be valued more in the midst of all this look-at-me fashion shock therapy.

Haizhen Wang

Haizhen Wang

There are always going to be high expectations for the debut solo collection of those that have scooped top prizes from the many emerging talent awards BFC has launched over the years. Those expectations were no lower for Haizhen Wang, the winner of the 2012 Fashion Fringe, and he was clearly aware of that. We recognized the same features that attracted us to him in the first place: the draped leather and heavy tweeds, heavily constructed dresses, highly detailed outerwear contrasting the light draped garments underneath. Exploring the samurai culture and aesthetic as his point of reference, Wang gave us a cohesive, well edited, distinct collection that made us excited to see what else this young CSM graduate has to offer.

Ashish

Ashish

Ashish, Ashish, Ashish… where do we start? The ironic glittered slogan tees (‘The end is near’) worn with comfy maxi skirts or pajama trousers, denim patchwork, sequined tweeds and road-worker’s safety uniforms, kufiya-patterned dresses and tops… Trust Ashish to manipulate things that are so un-fashion into a collection that everyone in the fashion world would desire. We have always loved his nomadic girl, the adventuress, the word-traveller and this season’s hippie, though more ‘street’ and urban than before, was no exception. We don’t go to Ashish to see the next season’s trends – we go for a dose of humor, wit and originality. Something we all, after 5 days of endless fashion shows and parties, so desperately yearned for. His collection is there to help us put things back into perspective, to realise that at the end of the day, fashion is about having fun!