Alexander McQueen fever is officially in the air.

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‘Inferno: Alexander McQueen’ by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey

Five years after his untimely death, London is celebrating this genius London talent with two major exhibitions (‘Savage Beauty’ at the V & A and Nick Waplington’s ‘Woking Progress’ at the Tate Britain), alongside the stunning picture book ‘Inferno’ by Kent Baker and words by Melanie Rickey.

Focussing on one show- the breakout AW 1996 ‘Dante’, described as groundbreaking couture meets club culture, which took place at a Crypt in the midst of Jack the Ripper’s killing ground on a freezing March evening, in East London.

The venue in itself set the scene for mystery and intrigue, and the off the beaten track show was bound to be controversial with the fashpack who were keen to see what was next from the inventive young designer.

Coffee table book ‘Inferno’ is an insider’s view of that night. It showcases exclusive, intimate behind the scenes photographs, as viewed from the lens of fashion photographer Kent Baker; After meeting Lee through mutual friends, he casually asked if he could take document the evening, not imagining he would say yes!

The infamous show, set in the apparently haunted venue of Christ Church in Spitalfields, complete with skeleton on the front row, has never been re-created, but you can now see for yourself the buzz and excitement of the show preparation, unseen portraits, model shots, hissy fits and the master at work.

With words by fashion journalist Melanie Rickey, Lee’s peers, his ex, the creative teams, and models that walked for him, all tell their version of what it was like to know and work with the legend on the show. High energy, raw, dramatic, are all phrases that crop up time and time again, alongside tales of the freaky vibe, dark spirits and electricity, which make the anecdotes worth their weight in gold.

Known for always pushing the boundaries in fashion and production, this show was bound to be remembered- as a performance as well as the designs. With Lee once stating “You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for”

This is a book for everyone that agrees with that, and can appreciate couture, and a dark, thoughtful visionary. Long live that sentiment. Even now you’re gone.

By Sara Darling

Inferno: Alexander McQueen by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey is published by Laurence King Publishing in March, available from www.laurenceking.com

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LFW Day 4: Ryan Lo AW14

FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on TwitterFacebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard for FAULT Magazine
@jeanlucbrouard

All Images are subject to  copyright

First Look, LFW Day 2: Palmer // Harding AW14

FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on TwitterFacebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard for FAULT Magazine
@jeanlucbrouard

All Images are subject to  copyright

LFW Feb ’14: Day 2 – John Rocha AW14

FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on Twitter, Facebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

John Rocha AW14:

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John Rocha’s Autumn/Winter ’14 show kicked off with a rock soundtrack and dramatic outfits but it stayed true to the romanticism that we all expect from the veteran London Fashion Week designer.

Ginormous ruffle collars, tiered dresses and multi-layer skirts were made for fun and frolicking and there were no prizes for spotting that flowers were the central inspiration point. Petal-like headpieces cocooned the models and A-line cocktail dresses were dotted with individual flower heads. It was toughened up with a strong black, rose red and bottle green colour palette for the darker months and rough textures were created with netting, lace and crochet. Unfinished seems hinted towards an arts and crafts aesthetic too.

The frills and flounce were intertwined with currently popular styles such as loose-fitting palazzo pants and oversized coats for a collection that was, overall, a steady but beautiful transition into the new season.

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Words by Olivia Pinnock – @OliviaPinnock

NYFW AW14 Roundup – Part 3 (Prabal Gurang, Rag & Bone & more)

With NYFW in full swing, we’ve edited and rounded up FAULT‘s fashion shows of note from the NYFW Fall/Winter (or AW ’14 to us) ’14 collections. Pay attention as we give you the lowdown:

Prabal Gurang:

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As one of the most standout collections of NFW this season, Prabal Gurang’s inspiration drew deeply on the visual elements of his homeland, Nepal. The models walked zen-like past huge gongs with flushed ‘straight from the himalayan mountains’ cheeks and deep centre partings inspired by the local Nepalese women. Featuring beautiful draping, complex layering, twisted seams and ‘wrapped’ fabric details in rich hues of red and orange in the same shades of Tibetan monk robes, the collection was full of meaning and depth. Some black, grey and unexpected prints were thrown into the mix also, to create a striking  multi-faceted set of looks. Although Gurang is usually known for his statement dresses, it was actually the knits that got us the most excited, I wonder if the monks realise what trendsetters they are? We can’t wait to see what he creates next.

 

Rag & Bone:

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It’s always exciting to see the Rag & Bone show and to see what they’ve been motivated by season by season. This time there was a ‘back to basics’ feel, which translated itself in rough textures, plaid, silky shell-suit style tops, pinstripe, paint splatters and texturized rough-looking fabric. This was a uniform of sorts, but not all that easily defined, more a contrasting selection of various ‘working’ uniforms that needed further investigation to be understood. It was an intriguing display using subdued ‘muddy’ colours, greys, navy, khaki, grey, black and brown off-shot with vivid orange, that to me, references a fast food restaurant. I’m not sure if I’ll be rushing to the shops to buy this for myself, but as with all collections that throw you a little off-balance, they usually end up being a big commercial hit. It really feels that this season, there are designers striving to ‘keep it more real’ or at the very least to be inspired by real life, gritty scenarios.

 

Suno:

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This was an unexpected hit for us, but Suno’s AW14 collection left us wanting more. Emerging as a truly inspiring brand, this latest collection was inspired by some found photographs of a Roma gypsy camp just outside of Bucharest. We see the Soma girl transform from the early 90’s through to 2006 in a selection of outfits that echo the passing of that time. From raw and undone styles to looks featuring rich embroidery, metallics and clashing pattern, with some loose referencing to tailoring. The collection managed to remain pulled together with the strong boots featuring a strip of metal. A clever idea to to keep each look consistent and to anchor the mix of looks firmly in the present.

 

Thakoon:

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Just when we thought we had AW sussed out, Thakoon threw this eclectic collection into the mix. Bright florals, unusual layering, shrunken poncho’s, then layers of knitwear plus capes mixed in with tailoring. This colourful collection commanded attention with it’s vivid colour palette and experimental layering. Favorite pieces were a slouchy nude-toned suit, a clashy floral bomber jacket and the blue polka dot suit worn beneath a coat-length bomber jacket. Genius.

Keep updated here for more of our NYFW Fall collection updates from the Editors at FAULT Magazine.

Stay updated during LFW via twitter @FAULT Magazine @RachelvHolland

READ THE REST OF OUR ROUNDUPS FROM NYFW:

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Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

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NYFW Feb ’14: DAY 3 – ADEAM AW 14

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Photographer: Audrey Melton
www.audmelt.com

NYFW Feb ’14: DAY 2 – Lee Jean Youn AW 14

Lee Jean Youn‘s AW 14 collection was about redefining what it means to be a modern woman of style in New York City. The show comprised of 30 looks using every combination of fabrics imaginable, pairing contrasting textures like black silk organza and wool pelt mix. Tightly strapped, revealing bodices were hidden under oversized wool coats and what you’d assume would be a jarringly dichotomous look was pulled off effortlessly by Youn. The thigh high stockings and spiky heels sported by every model served as further testament to Youn’s adherence to his elegant yet edgy vision.

The standout piece of the show was a cropped leather bodice with a denim draped skirt, topped with a wool pelt hat with feathers that stood straight up:

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Photography: Audrey Melton
www.audmelt.com

Text: Nancy Lu

NYFW Feb ’14: DAY 1 – JAY GODFREY AW14

 

Photography by Jenn Senn