FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS PPQ AW17

A collection aptly named ‘It’s Very Black and White’, designer duo Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker weren’t wanting to disappoint this season. Perhaps it’s because the duo are usually known for their bold prints and vivid colours (their AW16 collection was a wild spectrum of colour), that they thought it best to plainly put things in black and white from the offset as to not give any false hope.

Set at the Crypt on the Green in London with a live DJ playing beat techno music, the atmosphere couldn’t have felt more true to PPQ’s roots. The underground vibe helped to set the collection within the label’s beginnings in London subculture and continuously refers to this collaboration between fashion and music that is at the heart of their designs (PPQ also run a record label, 1-2-3-4 Records).

Having a monochrome palette throughout allowed for a more in-depth exploration and play with texture, lines and fabrics. White fur trimming was seen a lot around necks and sleeves alongside black feathers that were found stuck in the models hair. Tartan prints and horizontal stripes made the collection have a slight grunge feel to it that was set against the flamboyance of luxurious fabrics such as velvet, satin and tweed to help keep you warm during the colder months.

All looks were paired with Adidas Gazelle Shoes in black and white (what else?) which helped to reinforce the relaxed street vibe mixed with old school glam that saw throughout the collection, putting a modern spin on classic looks. Which only leaves me to ask, can be black be considered a colour yet?

Words: Heather Ibberson

London Fashion Week: Day 1 Highlights

Day 1 of LFW was as hectic as expected, large crowds, schedule clashes and torrential rain all failed to quell the air of excitement and tension surrounding Somerset House. My first show of the day was Bora Aksu with his strongest collection so far, backstage prior to the show all eyes were drawn to the delicate lace detailing paired with pale summer tones, all nods to his Turkish heritage.

Backstage at Bora Aksu

Backstage at Bora Aksu

Backstage at Bora Aksu

Backstage at Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu

Next up was FAULT Favourite Felder Felder with their new deep sea inspired collection. Plenty of emerald hues on offer and delicate fabrics offset by daring cutouts and sheer panels. Stand out pieces were the sheer bodysuit and the cascading maxi.

Felder Felder

Felder Felder

Late morning saw crowds gathering outside somerset house once again for the J. JS Lee show, the excitement was deserved, camera phones flashed throughout the show documenting the expertly constructed minimalism. The bold mix of blues and pinks helped add interest to the subtler shapes from the collection.

J. JS LEE

J. JS LEE

Early afternoon brought the DAKS show, favourites amongst many LFW goers for their classically refined stylistic choices. This season saw a nostalgic nod towards the 50’s with headscarves and checked prints, a refreshing, more autumnal approach to SS14..

Daks

Daks

Next was a visit to the beautiful Carlton House Terrace for Eudon Choi’s show. Set against the opulent surroundings the subtle floral patterns, muted colours and stripped back shapes all gave off a relaxed air, something I hope to see in his upcoming River Island collection.

Eudon Choi

Eudon Choi

My final show of the day was the hotly anticipated PPQ, backstage prior to the show Percy and Amy showed no signs of nerves, after the first look, it was clear why. Aimed at the red carpet the collection was bold and glamourous. Backless gowns, long trains and short dresses were the call of the day.

Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux backstage at PPQ

Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux backstage at PPQ

Backstage at PPQ

Backstage at PPQ

Backstage at PPQ

Backstage at PPQ

PPQ
PPQ

 

London Fashion Week Highlights – Day 1

Words: Katlin Siil

Day one of London Fashion Week was a colourful mixture of what London has to offer as a fashion capital. We saw sleek minimalism (Zoe Jordan), construction-deconstruction (Jean Pierre Braganza), ironic kitsch (PPQ) and rock’n’roll structuralism (Sass and Bide). If at times it felt as if the designers hadn’t fully developed their ideas and the general quality was slightly sub par, the first day of the 5-day fashion extravaganza was nonetheless full on energy and creativity.

Zoe Jordan

In the morning, Zoe Jordan gave us her take on Autumn/Winter 2013 with a typically architectural show inspired by Catholic churches in Rome and post-modernist masters. Crisper and cleaner than usual, Jordan stuck to a limited colour pallet and carried the catwalk of sharp tailoring and soft silks to its strong finale.

Design duo Fyodor Golan proved worthy winners of the Fashion Fringe 2011 award with their Belle De Jour inspired collection full of constructed theatric gowns reminiscent of the golden age of French cinema.

KTZ

KTZ

Lunchtime fun was provided by KTZ. If the twitter and Instagram campaign started by Mugler’s Nicola Formichetti was anything to go by, we were in for a big one. Never a disappointment, the masters of playful punk once again put together a soup of influences from street art to poker cards to the traditional costume of Hasidic Jews.

Jean Pierre Braganza

Jean Pierre Braganza

Jean Pierre Braganza remained in his comfort zone of reconstructed tailoring mixed with geometric prints, and why not? – it is something he has mastered over the past few seasons. Though darker and more lost (in a good way) in his sci-fi world than usual, Braganza once again demonstrated just how well he manipulates pattern and fabric, how limitless his fantasy world is and how well he controls it.

PPQ

PPQ

PPQ – the go-to brand for young Cool Britannia – steered clear of the usual black-grey-white with their lusciously colourful ode to Mad Men. However, it was an early 90s take on the trend – slicker, sleeker, shorter and more revealing. Complete with pompous hairdos decorated with velvet bows (or flying saucer hats), it was as if Betty Draper had designed the collection herself. With the help of Princess Diana.

Sass & Bide

Sass & Bide

You can trust the collection to be a stellar one, if the hordes of fashion insiders and celebrities alike (Olivia Palermo and Mary Charteris among others) take it as their duty to head to the hidden back streets in the badly lit St James’s in search of it.  Impossible to find without Google Maps or a competent driver, St John’s church played the part of a magnificent backdrop to Sass  & Bide Autumn/Winter 2013 collection. A cult label with a strong rock’n’roll DNA did not disappoint those that made the trek. It was a riveting showcase of figure hugging structured tailoring, sleek shifts, metallic knits (maxi dresses!) and silky white gowns with heavily beaded metallic corsetry. Edited to perfection in a simple colour pallet of black, white and yellow, Sass & Bide were the fitting finale to Day 1 of London Fashion Week.

 

 

 

Are you ready for Spring Summer 13? Read this and you will be….

With London Fashion week all but a distant memory, the ever-evolving world of fashion is now looking towards next summer! Especially relevant as the nights are closing in, boots are dug out of storage and comfort food is on the menu. It’s only the access to next seasons’ bikinis and the promise of pina coladas that are going to get us fashionistas through the winter months!

With that in mind, fashion next season is taking on a number of stand-out trends. As usual, there is something for everyone, but if you can pin point key pieces from the catwalks, the high street will be bursting with their own take on the following come next spring.

Futuristic is still making an impact, with Burberry re-working their classic trench in a number of chocolate box shades including purple, pink and lilac- which obviously impressed frow-er Harry Styles- perhaps because his girlfriend Cara Delevingne was walking for the show- and even wrapped up in a trench coat, she oozed summer sex appeal. More suited to the summer (or not with if this year is anything to go by!!) Matthew Williamson used metallics on leather and as embellishments; With foils and high shine pieces also being shown at Christopher Kane, Antonio Beradi, Markus Lupfer and Jonathan Saunders. Highlights being the boxy cuts, and phosphorescent shades, which added an edgy mermaid appeal to Saunders’ collection. Bernard Chandran used a grey, white and black palette, but added a few sequins into his mix as well as white PVC and a streak of rebelliousness. His collection even included a full sequin tracksuit, and you can’t get much more futuristic than that! Which, if you are that way inclined, will be on your next summer hit list … (read mine!!)

Monochrome is going to be big with the power dressers; Simple silhouettes, and basic shapes were prevalent on a number of catwalks, leaving room for accessorizing or keeping it nice and neat. With Sass and Bide returning to London fashion week after a season off, their collection fused masculine and feminine- and could best be described as aggressive power dressing- shell adornment has never looked better on a simple understated dress. Block colours were back at Topshop Unique, Roksanda Ilincic and Hemyca who used a strong collection of black and white basics, with subtlety beaded necklines and belts. Adam Andrascik’s collection was full of separates with contrasting stripes. Shirts and skirts/trousers combos coupled in basic easy to wear shapes added to the subtle sophistication, and asymmetric hemlines with a touch of sheer panelling are a well-received cheeky wink!

Sports luxe is another trend that seems to have wedged a place in the fash packs hearts. Inspired by this year’s Olympics, or just generally the joy of running around in sporty gear in the summer, designers were sending out models faster than tennis ball practice! Christian Blanken has long aligned himself with the sportswear aesthetic, producing collections in a practical fashion for fashion and not sport! Fusing python print, suede and liquid metal, there is something for the girl on the go, all staying true to a fuss free philosophy of mix and match basics. David Koma’s collection was a lot more specific and referenced female tennis stars of the 1920s; Basing the collection on bodycon and dropped waist dresses, the collection was mostly a very wearable and extremely practical full house. With the colour palette of green, tangerine, blue and white- its freshness will be sure to inspire, and if the go faster stripes make you go faster, all the better! Liz Black also offered a complimentary sports inspired silhouette; With her colour choice being pink and black, she used perforated elements, which lent a cosmopolitan edge and breaks the mould of tradition. Zoe Jordan also based her collection on a sports luxe theme with a mash up of girly shades and tomboy shapes; there was a mixture of crop tops, blazers, harem pants and bombers. Completed by baseball caps and sunglasses, this is one for the kool kidz! Talking of cool crowd, Ashish showed a much more reserved collection than usual, but it still had oodles of personality! Sequins mixed with denim mixed with scrunchies and styled by Anna Trevelyan who completed the back to the nineties grunge look with white Reebok classics. And if that isn’t enough to make you want to break out a sweat, there must be something wrong!

If dressing safe is not your thing, another key trend is mismatch. Strong in the belief that clashing works, designers including Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Meadham Kirchoff, Peter Pilotto and Issa lead us down the path that is not for the faint hearted; Mashing up colours and shapes all in the name of fun, you can find anything from hypercolour, fringing, pom poms and paisley! Henry Holland brought us 90s neon complete with tiny cropped tops; Also appealing was the PPQ inspired psychedelic collection; If you’re a fan of the mini/maxi extremes are you will fall in love with the embellished dresses, jumpsuits and halter necks. Leutton Postle also offered an eclectic mix. Definitely screaming summer, the clash of patterns – blocks, triangles, stripes, mish matched collars, tongue in cheek tassels and to die for shoes, they add a sense of drama to any spring summer wardrobe. The Louise Gray collection screamed FUN! Based on graffiti, there is much to be said about the appeal of a “Hot” “Yeah o Yeah” and other expletives! Definitely a talking point, the leather, appliqué and chiffon was showcased as high energy and with Barbie as a show sponsor, I guess we shouldn’t have expected anything less! Holly Fulton is another designer who steers well away from the ordinary! Transporting us to the City of Angels- LA, the bubblegum colours and riotous prints have already sent a teaser of an unimaginable hot summer, cruising around with oversized sunnies and the roof down on your Chevy Corvette.

Gaining a more grown up reputation, stripes and checks crossed over to SS and cropped up on several catwalks and are a refreshing contrast to a nautical look. Jonathan Saunders played with metallic stripes in cool blue and silver, while Giles experimented with thick black and white horizontal stripes.


Markus Lupfer was a bit more experimental and featured bold chevron patterns meshed with floral motifs and graphic, tribal elements. Acne also sent out monochrome stripes and a selection of black and white stripe separates. With the Queen of Tartan, Vivienne Westwood, also featuring a beige palette with high waist trousers as one of her key pieces.As an easy to wear trend, Clements Ribeiro offered possibly the most transferable collection; With bright striped polo tops, and tartan pencil skirts, this is something to wear straight from the catwalk.

Above all, there is much to look forward to, and with tights also seeming to have made a bit of an impact, SS13 fashion might be ready for the great British summer!

By Sara Darling

Check it Out- AW trends from LFW

Perhaps it’s because this is such a special year for the UK, with the Olympics and the Queen’s diamond jubilee, that designers have been touched by our rich history in the AW collections. This is a great time to be in London, and the designers at February’s AW12 fashion week certainly agreed.

Major trend for AW is turning back time to the traditional. Checks, dogstooth and tweed were showcased at several big players, with the heritage brand Burberry and of course, Dame Viv, holding the flag high.
This was also adopted by Corrie Neilsen, and KTZ who did a take on the 2012 kilt; Clements Ribeiro and PPQ who also dipped their toe in the plaid water and flashed accessories as opposed to full looks at their shows.

Corrie was my first glimpse of the tartan trend at her packed out show at Somerset House on Friday; She chose to champion her Scottish ancestry by using bold black, white and red tartans coupled with billowing trains, as well as her trademark peplum waists and ladylike necklines. Although it sounds extravagant, it is altogether wearable.

Kokon to Zai was all about the layering; Belts, necklace, berets, legwarmers, clutch bags, earrings and bling… the amount of detailing that went into this show was phenomenal and I loved it! The menswear and womenswear had the usual punky androgynous feeling, with boxy jackets for both boys n girls. Pieces were defined by belts, heavy shoes and the occasional sprinkle of sparkles.

Opening the show with all-plaid black and white looks, the designer layered different sized tartans over one another creating an artistic array of oversized shirts and wide-sleeved, bomber jackets for men, alongside long skirts paired with wrap around blazers cinched at the waist with heavy leather belts for women. It was big checks over little checks over medium checks. Red and yellow also made an appearance, coupled with contrasting linings, and my ultimate favourite was the sophisticated red tartan sequined twin set.

More traditional tartans were spied at Clements Ribeiro and Vivienne Westwood Red Label, who used blue to shake hers up a bit. As one would expect from Ms Westwood, this was far from the norm- big was beautiful!

On the Burberry stage, we were transported back to the country estates, complete with tweed caps and cord in subdued tones- olive, burgundy, plum, mustard and brown. All you need to complete this look is a small pair of Miss Marple reading glasses.

With so much to choose from, it’s almost a shame we have to endure SS…! But I am actually looking forward to the Mulberry and Holly Fulton ice cream tones for spring, so actually the tweed can wait!

By Sara Darling

London Fashion Week Day 1 Highlights