LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (3) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

 

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
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Preen went all kinds of sportswear on us this season, and by god, that’s definitely something we didn’t know we wanted. When we say sportswear, though, we don’t mean throw on your joggers and lets go for a hike, we mean good old, classic, American sportswear, where everything is clean and classic and simple, but still effortlessly chic and on the forefront of everyone’s mind. Heavy on the stripes that moved with the boy as opposed to ruining it (don’t worry, Thornton and Bregazzi wouldn’t steer you wrong with a stripe), and even heavier on the colours (black and white permeated, whilst hints of red, ochre, pale blue, and floral prints weaved in and out), the offerings from Preen for the new season have an element of seaside-courtside-tribal cultism about them, but in the most lust-worthy way possible. A mix of silhouettes, from body-con to billowingly repellant, has proved just how much Preen continues to develop since the brand was brought back to London. And what a perfect decision that was, right?

 

Mulberry SS15

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The second collection since the departure of its former creative director Emma Hill, Mulberry’s theme for this year was the English garden. The prints were inspired by delphinium, cow parsley and cornflower, making the pallet of the show rather subdue. Accentuated with leather, the collection seemed commercial with the design team clearly having their customer in mind and taking the words of “Ready to wear” to heart. The pieces were pretty and wearable though the overall impression was rather prim with a luxury feel.

Recently the brand seems to have been banking on the pull of celebrities, with Cara Delevigne designing a range of bags, a move away from previous Mulberrydarling Alexa Chung. And while the move to it girl Delevgine was certainly a logical one, it remains unclear whether this has really helped the brand move forward. It is easy to imagine someone like Kate Middleton in the new collection, however with Mulberry’s ever increasing prices one cannot help but wonder whether they are moving further and further away from their original customer. The Mulberry woman has certainly undergone a kind of transformation and it will be interesting to see how the brand develops once a new creative director has been appointed.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Sophia Webster
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Have any of you been into Cyberdog? If not look it up. Sophia Webster has created the ultimate clubbing inspired collection. The collection draws bits from different cultures. The bikini clad models held fear inducing poses while decorated with kabuki like eyes and white face paint. Bantu knots, dreads and box braids give off an African feel. The accessories on show were charming and colourful, speech bubble clutch bags with slogans on them and fruit printed fans. As well as net vests goggles and bright utility belts, the shoes on display included extreme knee high strappy boots, aztec heels, cut out boots and fruit decorated sliders.

 

-Deborah Ajia

 

Richard Nicholl

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Nicholl’s latest collection opened with a slip dress illuminated by fibre optics, which was an interesting start to what felt like an elevated sportswear collection infused with some casual dresses that could double as eveningwear for the right woman. Greys, whites, duck egg blue tones, a few blush pink tones and lots of metallic further pushed the sportswear aspects of the collection before moving into navy and blacks for the more elegant looks of the show. Transparency played a major role with Nicholl for SS15, which lend for a certain airiness to the collection. The evening wear Nicholl showed us this season was beautiful and had a simple elegance about them, which worked well with the more day-centric looks at the beginning of the show.

Overall, the collection had a wonderful range of pieces and Nicholl managed to dress his woman from day to night, somehow always making her look chic. SS15 felt very much in Nicholls’s comfort zone in terms of his choice of colours and cut, however the use of metallic was certainly a step forward for the designer. His ability to give us beautifully crafted and sharp tailoring never fails to make us smile.

-Charlotte Natter

 

 Marios Schwab 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Greco-Austrian Central St Martins MA graduate Marios Schwab is famed for his seductive little dresses featuring sheer fabric panels and form fitting shapes. His SS15 collection certainly featured his trademark dress but also easy tailored separates that epitomised summer in the city. Trench coats, sleeveless jackets, loose shift dresses and asymmetric hems in block colours of beige, white, teal and blue sat alongside monochrome blurred prints and cut out shirts to create a fresh and highly wearable collection.

Spaghetti strap dresses were layered over asymmetric long skirts, crop jackets with long coat tails and simple sheath strapless dresses with tie fastenings gave a stripped back look. The statement sheer gowns were still there, featuring heavily embroidered graphic panels, vibrant colour pops and metallic detailing but were an elegant feature alongside the tailored pieces.

– Jenny Slungaard

 

Matthew Williamson

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

With a collection going back to the brand’s roots, the Spring Summer 2015 show from Matthew Williamson heavily featured floral prints, a bold colour palette, flowing gowns and sumptuous fabrics.

Inspired by photographs of Marie Helvin in David Bailey’s book Chasing Rainbows, the collection was reminiscent of 1970’s Palm Springs. Lounge suits sat amongst flowing gowns, shirt dresses alongside long sleeved cocktail dresses, silk shirts paired with sheer lace skirts and flirty crop tops with asymmetric hem mini skirts, creating elegant silhouettes.

Heavily embellished dresses featured shimmering sequins, vibrant embroidered hibiscus flowers, billowing fabric and luxe ostrich feather trims. A striking colour palette of oxblood, coral, teal, emerald green, sky blue and neon pops had the Matthew Williamson DNA all over it, proving to be a gorgeous, cohesive collection which will likely feature heavily across magazine covers next season.

– Jenny Slungaard 

 

Temperley

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For SS15 Alice Temperley from Temperley London really stepped away from what the brand was previously known for, namely evening wear, and showed us a range of beautifully tailored separates and dresses. This is the second collection for Temperley since she fused her two brands (Temperley and Alice byTemperley) about a year ago and the designer’s collection certainly combines her two previous women seamlessly. Temperley’s woman does seem to enjoy power dressing with an androgynous edge, as we saw a range of suits in different colours ranging from grey to ivory tones and made out of various different fabrics come down the runway.

The inspiration for the newest collection, Temperley revealed in the supporting statement, came from the Japanses shunga paintings. This came to light in airy kimono jackets in intricate yet bold prints as well as the stencilled out layers visible under some of the jackets. The collection has a certain carefree, airy youthfulness to it, which made the collection feel like a breeze of fresh air for our summer wardrobes. The Temperley woman is certainly a sharp and confident dresser who likes to look glamorous without trying too hard. The sharp tailoring and attention to details in the collection were proof of that.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Paul Smith
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Professional and chic as always, Paul Smith brings his new collection to the catwalk with a bang. Fringes surprisingly pop up on tees, vests and shirts, these clean and smart outfits feature blazers, shirts, midi skirts, culottes, vests and trousers. They come in an array of prints and designs, from striped to plain and shiny to matte. The traditional colours of corporate wear are used with a dash of unconventional colours; blues, greys, reds and browns meet pale tones, oranges and greens. Sliders, heels and brogues are incorporated into many of the outfits. Shopper bags in a mix of leather and suede combine with the simple bracelets accompany the looks.

– Deborah Ajia 

 

Jonathan Saunders

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The first thought that came to mind when looking at the opening pieces ofJonathan Saunders’ newest collection was “Matisse”. His opening coat and trousers were adorned with cut-out pieces of leaves and bows which certainly set the tone for the rest of the collection by moving from much darker colours to a much more light palette as the show progressed.

Set to the rather eerie soundtrack of Under the skin Saunders’ woman was wearing a mix of no-nonsense pieces to much more abstract pieces later in the show, keeping the leaf inspiration throughout. The colours Saunders presented us with were quite traditional summer colours of tan tones, white and blues in different shades. And while many pieces reflected a certain masculinity, the tailored trousers and jackets, managed to keep a feminine aspect to them which Saunders expressed through the use of oversized bows and ruffles.

-Charlotte Natter

 

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‘Hate Me #ILoveYou ‘ – Behind the Scenes of this exclusive editorial for FAULT Issue 18

Get behind the scenes of Roger Weiss’ shoot, ‘Hate Me #I Love You’ – exclusively for FAULT Issue 18: The RAW Issue. The backstage video for ‘Hate Me #I Love You’ was shot by Andrea Todaro and the editorial was styled by Diana Andreea.

For more Behind the Scenes footage and fashion exclusives, visit our FAULT Film page
…and you can also check out some shots from the editorial inside the issue below:
hate me # i love you cover (Custom)
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hate me # i love you4 (Custom)

‘Hate me # I love you’ showcases designs by Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Costume National, Christopher Kane & more. Special Thanks to Studio Soldano.

 

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Fabrice Keusch’s FAULT – EXCLUSIVE EDITORIAL FOR FAULT ONLINE

Etole: PAUL SMITH

Etole: PAUL SMITH

Blazer: MARC CAIN Trousers: MARC CAIN Shoes: MARC CAIN

Blazer: MARC CAIN
Trousers: MARC CAIN
Shoes: MARC CAIN

Dress: PAUL SMITH

Dress: PAUL SMITH

Tunic: MARC CAIN Top: MARC CAIN Trousers: PATRIZIA PEPE Shoes: PAUL SMITH

Tunic: MARC CAIN
Top: MARC CAIN
Trousers: PATRIZIA PEPE
Shoes: PAUL SMITH

Top: PAUL SMITH Hat: PAUL SMITH

Top: PAUL SMITH
Hat: PAUL SMITH

Dress: PAUL SMITH

Dress: PAUL SMITH

Dress: MARC CAIN

Dress: MARC CAIN

 

Photographer : Fabrice Keusch

Stylists : Aline Reina

Hair & Makeup : Pauline Sydney

Model : Candice@Vivien’s Models

London Fashion Week Highlights – Day 3

Words: Katlin Siil

The third day of London Fashion Week was bursting with creative energy and talent as British fashion giants (Mulberry, Temperley) took to the stage alongside our bright young stars (Jonathan Saunders, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi). We also witnessed a catwalk debut (Whistles), and two trends were very noticeable: constructed punk and cleverly manipulated PVC and putting dresses over trousers and skirt suits.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

The morning star was Preen by Thornton Bregazzi with their sci-fi punk collection. There were typical punk features such as black leather, PVC and an overdose of metallic zips, but these were balanced with pretty floral prints, making the collection, against all odds, perhaps one of the softest we have seen from the duo.

 

Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell referenced the French resistance during World War II and despite the somewhat morbid subject matter it was a typically Howell-like collection of understated chic in muted hues and relaxed silhouettes. Perfectly appropriate for the English winter, it boasted soft cashmere, tweeds and comfy cottons. So very nonchalant, we will always love Howell for her own unique style and signature.

Mulberry

Mulberry

Emma Hill at Mulberry took her inspiration from swinging London. The a-line skirts (the favorite shape for the season, it seems) were short, the jackets were boxy and the puff-sleeved dresses had an almost coquette quality to them. There was, of course, lots of leather – expect skirt-suits in brown and olive green leather and detailed lady-like bags to take centre stage come fall. Not to mention the ever so adorable pups!

 

Temperley

Temperley

Temperley presented another sophisticated collection showcasing her tremendous talent for crafty detailing. The masterful contradiction in the feather-light Grecian dresses with their heavy beadwork was breathtaking, while the feminine skirts, blouses and day dresses (a tribute to silver screen siren and Hitchcock girl Tippy Hedren) will make the Duchess of Cambridge very happy. A celebrity favorite, Temperley front row was once again a star-studded affair with the likes of Olivia Palermo and Kate Nash making an appearance.

Topshop Unique

Topshop Unique

Topshop Unique – a show that seems to be the highlight of the LFW calendar, attracting even Queen Bee Anna Wintour – opened with Cara Delevingne and showcased even more leather and PVC. It was both edgy and feminine with soft cashmeres, pastels and fur stoles. The glittery finale series added a flirty playful touch.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou abandoned her usual bright colour pallet for a monochrome one. The results were splendid – it was probably the strongest, most refreshing collection we have seen from her. The oriental shapes were the perfect canvas for the digital prints of pastoral scenery complete with rivers and bridges – a delicate, almost nostalgic combination, perhaps the most stunning collection at LFW this season so far, dare we say.

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders surprised us with a less ‘Saunders’ collection than usual – missing were the repetitive patterns we have grown to love, as well as the cute matching ensembles and knit-sets. But we (almost) forgive him as he presented a strong collection of PVC and punk in a soft, feminine way. Combined with tweeds and silks, it was more retro than punk. A-lined skirts once again made an appearance, as did the very ‘Saunders’ colour pops in baby blue, orange and pink.

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson’s collections are going from strength to strength. The former go-to designer for Ibiza party girls (Jade Jagger and Kate Moss, but party girls nonetheless) is finally all grown up, dressing her woman in city-sleek combos only tastefully reminiscent of the former hippy days. The mandatory Williamson prints will always be in the mix (and thank God!), but they are now bolder, the fabrics less sheer, the structures more sophisticated and the silhouette more practical. But underneath it all, we can still see that same girl who danced the night away on a sunny beach in Spain. Only now, she is simultaneously running an empire.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith

Paul Smith also thought outside the box this season. His collection had fewer distracting details and patterns and less fuss than we are used to seeing from him. We salute Smith for incorporating the new wider and shorter trouser shape in such beautiful way, introducing bold colours and colour combinations (who wouldn’t love those azure blues and fuchsia pinks) and generally adapting to a more modern, simpler and sophisticated fashion vernacular.

 

 

 

 

 

Muse

CoCo wears Coat- Dans La Vie, Knee Socks- Topshop ,Issac wears Shirt- Etro, Trousers- Paul & Joe Homme

Issac wears Blazer- Agi & Sam, Trousers- Paul Smith
CoCo wears Dress- Marina Qureshi

Issac wears Waistcoat and trousers – Paul & Joe Homme, CoCo wears Dress- RIMZIM

Issac wears Shirt- Paul & Joe Homme, Trousers- Paul Smith, Shoes- Oliver Spencer, CoCo wears Shoes- Christian Louboutin, Cuff- Maria Piana

Issac wears Waiscoat- Paul & Joe Homme, Trousers- Paul Smith, Shoes- Oliver Spencer
CoCo wears Dress- Jeffrey Michael, Bangle- Maria Piana

  Issac wears Blazer- Asher Levine , Trousers- Paul Smith, CoCo wears Dress- Little Shilpa, Shoes- Charkviani

Issac wears Jacket- Jenny Schwarz, Shirt and Trousers- Paul Smith CoCo wears Dress- Alice by Temperley, Shoes Christian Louboutin

CoCo wears Fur Jacket- Lulu Liu, Shirt & Trousers- Gucci, Shoes- Rupert Sanderson

Issac wears Jacket- Jenny Schwarz, Shirt and Trousers- Paul Smith; CoCo wears- Trench Coat- Paul & Joe

CoCo wears Dress- Marina Qureshi, Earrings- Little Shilpa

Photography by-Joseph Sinclair, www.josephsinclair.com
Styling- Theodore Adolph-Regisford.
Make-Up- Charlene McGreene using MAC.
Hair- Aaron Carlo at Headmasters, using Headmasters styling & Hair Rehab London.
Models- Issac @ Nevs, CoCo @ Select.
Stylist Assistant- Victorine Mengot

London Collections: Men!

With London Collections: Men arriving, we now have a showcase for the best in menswear design that London has to offer, fitting neatly into the menswear schedule dictated by Paris and Milan. Big names such as Paul Smith and Burberry in the line-up, and even some support brought in from across the pond by the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, promise to finally grant British menswear all the attention it deserves.

Astrid Andersen – A/W 2012

But London Collections: Men is not just an improvement compared to the off-schedule London Fashion Week Menswear Day in terms of timing. A long list of exhibitions and presentations, and not to forget a launch event hosted by HRH The Prince of Wales himself, will celebrate British tradition and unsurpassed quality, while young designers will get the chance to present their work to international press. That mix of experience, tradition, innovation and new ideas is what makes London stand out as a fashion capital.

By creating London Collections: Men, the British Fashion Council did not only intend to offer British fashion houses a bigger media platform for their menswear lines, but also to offer international and British press and buyers an ‘eclectic and exciting mix of designers.’ Long established businesses with decades of experience, such as London’s world famous Savile Row tailors, attract an audience that is above all interested in craftsmanship and well-made tailoring, giving up-and-coming labels the chance to prove that their work is of similarly astonishing quality. Likewise, emerging designers and fresh fashion graduates from London’s countless fashion schools draw the attention of those who look for new ideas and innovation, which they will just as well find in the collection of a traditional British brand.

Agi&Sam – A/W2012

Britain’s heritage brands and tailors managed to stay relevant over the decades and continue to do so because of their worldwide reputation and incomparable skills. But also by keeping up with younger brands and making use of all the modern marketing strategies. Long gone are the times of wood-panelled stores being a standard in Savile Row, these days Mayfair’s tailors outdo each other with most exciting window displays and some of them even launch ready-to-wear collections every season. Burberry, the epitome of a traditional British brand, has one of the most star-studded front rows in the industry at each and every show.

In a similar way, young and hopeful designers turn to experienced brands for inspiration and knowledge, one of the most well-known examples being Alexander McQueen. As one of the greatest innovators of the last couple of years, he learned his craft as an apprentice in Savile Row, cutting patterns and stitching together classic bespoke suits.

MAN, a joint initiative of Topman and Fashion East, supports the newest menswear labels in London and presents their work to the world. Designer Astrid Andersen, whose collection will be shown as part of the MAN showcase, finds some of the inspiration for her innovative sportswear-inspired pieces in the craftsmanship of traditional tailors. Similarly, design duo Agi&Sam, who will present their work alongside Astrid Andersen, make us of very traditional pattern cutting and tailoring techniques, but pair them with unconventional prints and textures, playing with tradition and new ideas.

There’s no doubt that London Collections: Men’s debut will catapult the new showcase into international spotlight, along with London’s menswear designers, making the ever growing market for men’s luxury apparel more accessible for them. London’s identity as a place where tradition and innovation are equally valued and complement each other will set it apart from the rest and leaves us excited to see what’s to come.

London Collections: Men will take place from June 14 to June 17.