‘Artificial Light’ by Frederick Wilkinson – Exclusive Fashion editorial for FAULT Online

Top- Minan Wong
Pants- Layana Aguilar
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- H&M

Blue pants- Chikimiki
Print blouse- Chikimiki
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- H&M

 

Blouse- behno
Earring- H&M

Long sleeve blouse- Behno
Dress- Layana Aguilar
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- H&M

Long sleeve knit top- Chikimiki
Sleeveless knit top- Chikimiki
Skirt- chikimiki
Shoes- ALDO
Earring- H&M

Coat- Layana Aguilar
Earring- H&M

Top- Chikimiki
Long sleeve blouse (worn around neck)- Vintage
Pants- Chikimiki
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- H&M

Top- Chikimiki
Bralette- KORAL
Pants- Chikimiki
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- MANGO

Dress- Layana Aguilar
Shoes- Marc Fisher
Earring- H&M

Photographer: Frederick Wilkinson @fw_photo

Model: Asia, MSA Models NY @asiaprus @msamodels

Stylist: Lauren Walsh @laaurenwalsh

MUA: Elena Thomopoulos @elvendoe

Wig Stylist: Bamby @bambyofsuburbia

Photographer’s Assistant: Yanutzi Diaz @yanutzi

New York Fashion Week: FAULT Top Picks

Suitsupply

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Photography: Robert Perea

 

Sophisticatedly suited up…the line trailed down the block with slow stepping anticipation of the presentation that awaited us. A classic setting, warmth and polished with an endearing invitation to come stand a little closer, stay a little longer, linger for just a moment more. Gushed hearted red velvet blazers to finale close out jet black velvet. A story read from left to right and color hues transitioning to warming neutrals mixed with soft blues…the gentleman a most pleasant sight, hair delightfully dandy and they sat and stood, framed and poised. A suited Suitsupply of perfection.

Words: Chaunielle Brown

CWST
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Photography: Robert Perea

 

CWST leads us in the direction of comfy grunge, wrapped and tethered with layered pieces for an unwrapping. The dissection of grunge with the models who sported stringy, ‘I could care less, just woke up out a bed hair locks.’ The day after makeup wake up of an all night party gone salty or sour and in a multitude of crossed paths. The uniform stripe and chunky plaid, the embedded pins to decorate, a coloring of paint brushes after having sat in a cup of water, mixed and muddled giving those dark and earthy hues with rich navy blues and the necessary tonal grey buffer that knits this easy flow, warm and too cool collection together.

Words: Chaunielle Brown

David Hart
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Photography: Robert Perea

That rhythm blues all intensive, 60s inspired harlem renaissance. David Hart set a bespoken decisive tone, introducing the musical notes that had you clinging to motown make moments. A lively presentation charmed with models as musicians playing the alluring saxophone and flute to draw you in and entice. Suits and separates, rich tones and carefree neutrals, mixed with chartered blues, no ordinary plaids and striped simplicity…All marking a confident and ever-so stylistic statement

Words: Chaunielle Brown

 

NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15, DAY 4: THE FAULT SS16 DAILY EDIT

Herve Leger
Fashion-East
This exquisite show was exactly what we desire from Herve Leger. The classic bandage silhouettes we love were given a fresh interpretation with cutouts, pantsuits, flounces, and bell sleeves. There were lots of scooped out backs and exposed shoulders. The pantsuit versions felt especially new  and exciting – sleek shapes with the same fabrications as the dresses, fitted snuggly over the upper legs and then flared out into sweeping bell-bottoms. Pants worn under dresses, some colors and shimmer, a perfect pink and some sparkling black, but the show was dominated by feminine neutrals and whites, executed masterfully with dark detailing, studs, woven thread work.The models’ hair was all braided in the front and side swept neatly, with thin wisps around the face. Make up was natural and pretty, contrasting with the very sexy and glamorous clothes.
Lydia Hope Samson
BCBGMAXAZRIA
Fashion-East
BCBGMAXAZRIA let us fall into a trance under a canopy of daunting celling heights, magnifying the electricity of ‘cool.’ A warming filled sunset cascaded its lights over an exponentially elevated room while the smell of a 1970s blissful freedom filled the air.A stage set for a vintage cotton candy Californian Boho skateboard kind of freedom. The girls set an individualistic characterizing tone with their bucket hats, perfectly contrasting balance and paved footsteps with scrunched fringed leg warmer-like moccasins. A liberating spirit welcomed an echoed expressway of collectively unabashed eclectic blend of wide ranging colors, mixed prints and collaborating woven textures.

Elongated bell striped flares, glistened with touches of brocaded metallics, just the right amount of shine to weave into its colorful and tie-dyed counterparts. The silhouettes ran from boxy oversized, to a slender slim carefree ruffled frill. The rugged renegade of an effortless summer stain. You simply wanted to adopt the coolness of their airy blissful attitude.

Quintessential quilting, patchwork and knits, rich compositions and patterned embroidery introduced an expressive energy and confident edge. Gradients, marbled textiles and pastel garden delights of color were the perfectly seasoned mixings to a feather weight glide of mixed proportions.

Chaunielle Brown

NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15, DAY 3: THE FAULT SS16 DAILY EDIT

Chris Gelinas 

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A coastal adaptation breathing ‘fleeting’ European moments. The feeling of ‘A Most Talented Mr. Ripley dance, summer trotting cross country lines, cafe sitting, espresso sipping early afternoon delight. The infinite escape from noise enhanced with a “controlled vulnerability.” With pops of crimson fiery orange red against cool olive watercolor oak, crispy white and light cocoa, the integrating separates garnered a seductive sophistication. Sparked leather introductions coupled with olive and checkerboard striped prints signal an inviting flare of curiosity.

A smooth and cooling disposition ushered in blues and greens transporting and transcending fallen shoulder straps, while open cut panels of intrigue kept with a secretive air and buttoned up to the neck and slightly secluded takes on the reveal of a contrasting vulnerable appeal.
By each open seam, low neckline, and peeking mid drift, these moments flashed indeed, each look presenting another memory, moment, and empowering recall.

Chaunielle Brown

Creatures Of Comfort
Fashion-East4
Creatures of comfort was easily somehow reminiscent of fall days in school, with that specific facet of ‘grunge’ very occasionally thrown in. The particular type that inspired long, long effortless and floral dresses. The collection of course carried springlike aspects, using this collegiate color palette. Off-the-shoulder sleeves stole the show. Pant legs were sometimes bootleg-esque, permitting an easy-to-wear feel, and the sweaters and tops were noticeably comfortable looking as well.The colors were warm and interesting, and the fabrics made them all the more intriguing; it was as if one could reach out and touch the pieces on a whim. It was all very brainy and stylish, with the flowing sleeves and long dress hems giving the collection that nice balance and a hint of an edge. “Go ahead and skip one class today,” the pieces sort of whispered. One would still be fabulous and confident in these calming and expertly mixed and matched patterns. The pieces used the essence of the comfort found in daily life, with a spot of inspiration from unwinding in a fantastical wooded environment. This made them chillingly lovely.

Boat Milan
OHNE TITEL
Fashion-East4

OHNE TITEL presented a tainted love melody with a solid color platter of poppy crimson red, crisp white, iced candy blue, black licorice, and tales of teal. A chained melody of holiday dimensions, and just enough décolleté angular exposures. Light and fresh, wearable with careless ease, ideal pieces for a skipped away crystal clear brisk breeze water holiday.

Chaunielle Brown

 

NYFW SEPTEMBER ’15, DAY 2: THE FAULT SS16 DAILY EDIT

 

Mathieu Mirano

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Mathieu Mirano’s Spring 2016 collection is an innovative fusion of evening elegance, everyday accessibility, and an Amazon rainforest-inspired color story.  Twisted branch motifs, curved and layered color blocking, sequins, fringe, and surprising color pairings make this collection both intriguing and delightful.

Mirano’s passion and dedication to his work is displayed in the craftsmanship of every detail.  Textile mills in France were sourced, as well as New York artisans, creating fabrications that appear to be iridescent, shimmering, delicate and luxurious. There is a sense of liveliness and movement within the pieces, in contrast with the absolute stillness of the presentation.

Contrasting but cohesive, the color story is the most striking aspect of the collection as a whole.  Mirano incorporated bright pink, a very dark plum, gradients of ocean blues and greens, touches of orange, and bold yellow. There was a dark hunter green for the show-stopping evening dress positioned front and center. There were ombre washes of gradient colors on chiffon, and twisting sections of contrasting colors that gave fluidity to the more pristine silhouettes. All of the colors feel harmonious and decidedly wearable. Even viewing everything at once, there is a surprising synchronicity in all the saturation and boldness.

The designer stated: “My aim is to energize the field around the body and electrify it with my work. I want to design garments that are as amazing and liberated as the women who wear my collection.” He was absolutely successful, and in the months and years ahead, these amazing and liberated women will want to wear every one of the pieces in this brilliant collection.

Lydia Hope Samson

 

Leanne Marshall

Fashion-East

Leanne Marshall’s ever enchanting setting laid dramatic musical notes opening with a darkened thundering showcasing a bold softness painted black. Light, lifeless and whispering breaths of petal pieces, exposed shoulders and sheer transparency where the beginning of an organic metamorphosis of inner self. Colors transcended opening up to lighter blues, violet lilacs, and onto empowering emeralds and lapis lightning blues. Loose, lengthy and fluid mixed with ultra sheer pleasingly created an ethereal and whimsical air, with the tallest of amazon like models gliding down the runway crowned in nature’s fit twigged jewels. An ever after storybook delight.

Chaunielle Brown 

Tadashi Shoji

Fashion-East

An illuminated lavender lit setting surrounded the venue with high anticipation that soon settled into a gifted opening of heavenly white floral lace and sheer delight. Everything that can be expected and fantasized came elegantly down the runway. A lustrous garden come to life, with short and long dresses, light separates, ballerina inspired layered and pleated chiffon skirts paired with easy-go delicate sweaters and bomber zips jackets. Intricate detailing textiles aligned with emeralds, neutral creamy whites, peachy pinks, royal blues, and floral outlines andappliqué with contrasting stripe elements presented a captivating and charming expression of elegance and sophistication. Stunning elegance as hoped and mesmerizing with beautifying confidence.

Chaunielle Brown 
Creatures Of The Wind
Fashion-East
Creatures Of The Wind showcased classic reds, blacks and whites for an ever-so-cool and boyish swaggered collection. Sparkling stars, daisies, mixed with black and white grid textures accented with fishnet stockings presented an excellent assortment of interchangeable separates. Hinted influences from the 70s and 90s were felt with dresses layered over short-

sleeved shirts full-suited stamina rocked out with music worthy hair fusion. The elements of copper textures, metallics and touches of olive gave way for a new evening declaration.
Wearable and head turning, CREATURES OF THE WIND delivered collectively cool separates, ideal for the nonstop city movement and day to night transition.

Chaunielle Brown 

TOME

Fashion-East

TOME presented a confidently leading and silently seductive collection with hints of masculinity adorned by a significantly sophisticated integrated palette of neutral black, white, taupe-khaki and cream with polite pops of poppy pink and canary yellow. The impressively grand  dominating one shoulder ruffles offered a great supportive contrast to the classicism of menswear touches shown in the trousers, long sleeve low-dipped, v-neck blouse silhouettes accented by the slick back hair and bare faces. Bold with character, mixed in stripes, sheer delights and long skirts, there’s an echoing of energetic freedom, sensuality and gentle mysterious invitation.

Chaunielle Brown 

 

FAULT Focus: International Designer Sophie Zinga

 

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What was your primary inspiration when you started the Sophie Zinga label?

When I first launched the line my primary inspiration came from my country, Senegal. I remember sourcing fabrics and creating intricate designs with Senegalese hand woven fabrics.

How would you describe the brand in 3 words?

Feminine. Classic. Minimal.

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Congratulations on your first show at Paris Fashion Week! You displayed your AW’14-15 collection – what/who were the main influences behind that (if any)?

Thank you. Even though New York is my base and it’s an untraditional approach, I think my international fan base appreciated it. I think it was important to show in Paris, which is the original fashion capital of the world.

Do you have a favourite piece from the collection?

Yes my favourite piece is the gold metallic lame dress. It is glamorous silk metallic lame but at the same time keeps Sophie Zinga’s minimal quality and focus on lavish fabrics and clean lines.

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You have such a cosmopolitan background – from Dakar (Senegal) to New York via Paris and Lagos – how do these disparate influences manifest themselves in your designs?

It comes naturally. Sophie Zinga is named after myself so it reflects parts of personality, my reality and myself, which translates into my designs.

Can you tell us about some of the unique features of the label?

The label is 100% made in Senegal (West Africa).

We love Animals. No real fur policy.

We only use silks, brocades or hand woven fabrics.

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Is there a particular process you follow when designing?

I travel a lot. My parents travel a lot so I get a lot of my inspiration from traveling or from my parents’ trips. My mother is a great storyteller so she has an amazing way of giving people details about her trips that makes you feel like you were there. Other than that, it starts with sketches in my red little to-go red book I keep with me at all times. Picking out fabrics is my favourite part! I sometimes source fabrics depending on how I’m feeling.

You describe the label as “socially conscious”. Could you expand on that?

When I first thought about creating the label, giving back and creating jobs in West Africa was my biggest motivation. I have a background in development and economics and I’ve extensively volunteered and worked in development issues regarding Africa so naturally I always wanted to incorporate that in the label’s DNA. I made the conscious move of keeping the manufacturing done in 100% in West Africa. I am currently working with different multinational entities to improve to livelihoods women and girls and to give workers from disadvantaged communities the opportunities to have a dignified job in fashion, which in return benefits the whole community.

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Who would be your dream client to design for/work with?

Lupita Nyongo. She perfectly nails the essence of style in an effortless way, without trying too hard. Angelina Jolie would be an amazing client as well. She can do no wrong on the red carpet.

What are you currently working on?

I am currently working on my Spring/Summer 15 collection, which is going to be the most extensive collection yet to date. Excitement is an understatement!

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What are your plans to expand the line?

I would love to expand the line and ultimately create a diffusion line 5 years down the road. In 2016 I plan on developing accessories.

What is your FAULT?

Procrastinating. LOL.

 

Images: Ibra Ake; Mambu Bayoh

NYFW AW14 Roundup – Part 5 (Marc Jacobs, Diesel Black Gold, Rodarte, Vera Wang)

With NYFW now finished, we’ve edited and rounded up FAULT‘s fashion shows of note from the NYFW Fall/Winter (or AW ’14 to us) ’14 collections. This is our final roundup in a series of posts on our favourite NYFW AW 14 colelctions. To read the rest, just click the links to each part the bottom of this post:

Marc by Marc Jacobs:

nyfw_marc-jacobs

Marc Jacobs’ girl has got something to say this season and she’s saying it in high decimals. 90’s girl power was injected with new life under the designing force of Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley to create a loud and proud model army. The looks were uniform in parts, wild and festooned with 90’s referencing in others. Colours either stuck to the black / white / grey / red / khaki colour palette or were multi-coloured with splashes of royal blue. We’ve seen tartan everywhere this season and there were hints here or there throughout of this popular print. With varying shapes and silhouettes running through the collection, the anchoring aspects of the designs were the sheer, brazened, statement of the pieces. Plus all of the outfits were paired with either comfy looking high-tops or trainers. It looks as if the girls had great fun creating this collection and it shows, girl power is alive and she’s wearing high-tops.

 

Diesel Black Gold:

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I’m loathe to use the words ‘edgy’, but when Diesel Black Gold entered the runway, well, my first thoughts were ‘edgy’ and ‘futuristic’. The commercial aspect of this collection also means that it’s extremely wearable, a plus when your lusting after the new season pieces from the edge of the catwalk. Silver and mosaic reflective panelling featured heavily throughout the show, with reflective material and high-shine, luxe pieces. Black, silver and white were the focal colours and this reserved set of tones served the collection well. It’s all a bit spaceman-esque with a good dose of rock n’ roll thrown in for good measure and the looks translate straight off the runway into real life with ease.

 

Rodarte:

nyfw_Rodarte 

I have to admit, that when I first saw the Rodarte collection hit the runway, I was confused, and yet then I saw the sparkle; I understood. The ladylike looks that sauntered down the runway had an air of innocent femininity. I noted a 70’s influence within the sheer, drapey dresses, the crochet and the wide-leg trouser suits. All mixed together, it was a visual feast. The glittery coats and jackets got our full attention as a new season essential item. The glitter was mixed into outfits in the form of a jaunty beret, a frilled skirt and top or sparkly socks. The aesthetic was pure, frothy ‘girl’ but with elements that made it feel womanly and grown up. On reflection, the sparkling coats made the collection and we would have loved to have seen more of this worked into all of the looks, I guarantee the coats will be the most memorable piece of this show.

 

Vera Wang:

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Vera Wang turned to the dark side this season and it was a raging success, This hardly ever happens, but there was NOT ONE piece in this collection that I didn’t like in the whole show. Literally every piece was a must have for me. Vera really knocked it out of the park with this collection. Dark, dreamy, grungy and gothic are some of the words that sprung to mind when seeing the models for the first time. The outfits were well thought out, each one balanced perfectly. With oversized knitwear, leather, tartan and sheer fabric with subtle prints worn alone or mixed together, the effect was streamlined and concise. we thoroughly approve.

Keep updated here for more of our NYFW Fall collection updates from the Editors at FAULT Magazine.

Stay updated during LFW via twitter @FAULT Magazine @RachelvHolland

READ THE REST OF OUR ROUNDUPS FROM NYFW:

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Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

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NYFW AW14 Roundup – Part 3 (Prabal Gurang, Rag & Bone & more)

With NYFW in full swing, we’ve edited and rounded up FAULT‘s fashion shows of note from the NYFW Fall/Winter (or AW ’14 to us) ’14 collections. Pay attention as we give you the lowdown:

Prabal Gurang:

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As one of the most standout collections of NFW this season, Prabal Gurang’s inspiration drew deeply on the visual elements of his homeland, Nepal. The models walked zen-like past huge gongs with flushed ‘straight from the himalayan mountains’ cheeks and deep centre partings inspired by the local Nepalese women. Featuring beautiful draping, complex layering, twisted seams and ‘wrapped’ fabric details in rich hues of red and orange in the same shades of Tibetan monk robes, the collection was full of meaning and depth. Some black, grey and unexpected prints were thrown into the mix also, to create a striking  multi-faceted set of looks. Although Gurang is usually known for his statement dresses, it was actually the knits that got us the most excited, I wonder if the monks realise what trendsetters they are? We can’t wait to see what he creates next.

 

Rag & Bone:

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It’s always exciting to see the Rag & Bone show and to see what they’ve been motivated by season by season. This time there was a ‘back to basics’ feel, which translated itself in rough textures, plaid, silky shell-suit style tops, pinstripe, paint splatters and texturized rough-looking fabric. This was a uniform of sorts, but not all that easily defined, more a contrasting selection of various ‘working’ uniforms that needed further investigation to be understood. It was an intriguing display using subdued ‘muddy’ colours, greys, navy, khaki, grey, black and brown off-shot with vivid orange, that to me, references a fast food restaurant. I’m not sure if I’ll be rushing to the shops to buy this for myself, but as with all collections that throw you a little off-balance, they usually end up being a big commercial hit. It really feels that this season, there are designers striving to ‘keep it more real’ or at the very least to be inspired by real life, gritty scenarios.

 

Suno:

nyfw-suno

This was an unexpected hit for us, but Suno’s AW14 collection left us wanting more. Emerging as a truly inspiring brand, this latest collection was inspired by some found photographs of a Roma gypsy camp just outside of Bucharest. We see the Soma girl transform from the early 90’s through to 2006 in a selection of outfits that echo the passing of that time. From raw and undone styles to looks featuring rich embroidery, metallics and clashing pattern, with some loose referencing to tailoring. The collection managed to remain pulled together with the strong boots featuring a strip of metal. A clever idea to to keep each look consistent and to anchor the mix of looks firmly in the present.

 

Thakoon:

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Just when we thought we had AW sussed out, Thakoon threw this eclectic collection into the mix. Bright florals, unusual layering, shrunken poncho’s, then layers of knitwear plus capes mixed in with tailoring. This colourful collection commanded attention with it’s vivid colour palette and experimental layering. Favorite pieces were a slouchy nude-toned suit, a clashy floral bomber jacket and the blue polka dot suit worn beneath a coat-length bomber jacket. Genius.

Keep updated here for more of our NYFW Fall collection updates from the Editors at FAULT Magazine.

Stay updated during LFW via twitter @FAULT Magazine @RachelvHolland

READ THE REST OF OUR ROUNDUPS FROM NYFW:

———

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

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