FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Katie Eary LFWM AW/17

Amidst the backdrop of pre-watershed nipple balloons, Daisy Lowe returned to the catwalk to open day two of LWFM. Was this a silken whimsical dream? It felt like it. Following dear Daisy came a psychedelic slumber party drawing from the gritty alleyways of 70s Soho, London. Paul Raymond, property mogul, strip club owner and the OG of London’s seedy post-war sex scene, heavily influenced Katie Eary’s burnt orange vision this season.

Adorned in sensually cut silk negligees, pjs and robes, Eary’s collection whispered ‘come-to-bed’ in a kind of cheeky, Carry On way. Of course there had to be; garish geometric prints, tobacco browns and rich plums (because it’s the 70s, right?), as well as cute repeat print lizards emblazoned across the show. The girls towered down in heels and high hems, and guys sleazily opened their robes just enough to see gold2 chains (and a couple of chest hairs). Oh, and we couldn’t help but love the combination of the smoking jacket with the adorable teddy bears (referencing Brideshead Revisited) clutched in-hand.

What we learnt? Bed head rules. This swinger-chic display was a retro-spectacular tribute to that glamorous sex-infused era. Eary closed the show fittingly donning heart-shaped nipple tassels. Love.

Words: Lizzie Griffin

 

Fault Magazine Reviews Belstaff LCM SS17 Presentation

 

Taking inspiration from Bruce Brown’s Motorcycle classic, Belstaff decided to bring the dirt track to London with a film-set homage to On Any Sunday, making it a weekend to remember. Heavily influenced by the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen, the models lazed back on the vintage cars and motor cycles dressed in hand-waxed leather clad and aviator shades. The cast had a carefree attitude exuding off of their rugged exterior – you could almost smell the motor oil radiating off of them. Integral to this collection was the personalisation of the leather jackets and the references to the sun-bleached palette of the film. Recognisable personas from the track were replicated in this collection: Romero with a diamond hand-waxed leather application and Mashburn’s black and yellow colour schemes. These pieces celebrated the pioneering era of 1970s racers as Frederik Dyhr, Belstaff VP Men’s Design explains, “[It] was a defining time for Belstaff because leather manufacturers on both sides of the Atlantic were really embracing this idea of personalising leatherwear and so began an era of strong colour direction”.

 

Rough-edged, lived-in looks, rich tobacco tonals and black burnished finishes set the tone for most outfits. Paying tribute to racing as a coveted sport, we saw relaxed open necklines – an ode to the racing shirts of the 1970s. As a nice surprise Belstaff showed us five looks from the Women’s SS17 pre collection, again taking carefree biker-goddess attitudes as well as hand-waxed suede and lightweight straight-leg denim. The show carried on outside thrilling the public with Twelve-time Trial World Champion Dougie Lampkin MBE performing crazy bike stunts a stones throw away from Queen Liz’s 90thbirthday luncheon. A rather noisy, but lovely birthday surprise, we think!

Words: Lizzie Griffin

‘KALEIDOSCOPE’: FAULT Exclusive Editorial – Viridiana Flores’ FAULT

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ALL: BLANK CANVAS by DIEGO GUMIEL

cardigan FOREVER 21
Shirt SELECTED.

cardigan: FOREVER 21  shirt: SELECTED

vest COS
pants ACNE STUDIOS
socks ASOS

Vest: COS  Pants: ACNE STUDIOS Socks: ASOS Shoes (stylist's own)

Shirt: Zara

Shirt ZARA

Shirt ZARA

T-shirt COS

T-shirt COS

Cardigan: FOREVER 21 Pants: AMERICAN VINTAGE headphones:BEATS

Cardigan: FOREVER 21 Pants: AMERICAN VINTAGE
headphones:BEATS

Vest: COS Pants ACNE STUDIOS

Vest: COS
Pants ACNE STUDIOS

 

Photographer: Viridiana Flores 
Stylist: Diego Gumiel 
Make up and Hair : Rocío Calvente 
Ph Stylist: Andrés Pulido
Model: Oscar Kindelan (UNO Models) 

FAULT Faves from LCM Day 1

Christopher Shannon

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

A DIY theme took centre stage at Christopher Shannon for AW15 as deconstructed casualwear was paired with accessories crafted from plastic shopping bags. The bags were a recurring motif with sweaters carrying appliqued illustrations of them with the tongue-in-cheek slogan ‘save me’. Next autumn, the designer invites his customers to get creative with his clothing too in the form of Velcro patches on sweatshirts and jackets with stick on shapes.

Remember those ADIDAS popper tracksuits you had in the 90s? They’re back thanks to Shannon except this time they’re left undone in multiple strips to create thick tassels for an ‘accidentally on purpose’ scruffiness. Unusually for a men’s collection, waists were accentuated with mini peplum hems on t-shirts and ruched midriffs on puffa jackets.

The bright white, cobalt and red pieces were supposedly inspired by a sunny summer spent in Aix-en-Provence but with all those plastic bags floating around we couldn’t help but bring to mind a certain supermarket chain…

-Olivia Pinnock

Photography: Chris Yates

 

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Todd Lynn

Good old fashioned rock ‘n’ roll was on the agenda at Todd Lynn with a live soundtrack from garage punk duo Slaves. Both menswear and womenswear were presented, though the need to differentiate the two seems pointless in the androgynous collection where models sported identical black bob wigs.

Tight, drainpipe tuxedo trousers, plunging suit lapels with nothing underneath and fringed suit jackets looked back to the designer’s early years as a designer creating bespoke suits for the likes of Mick Jagger, Marilyn Manson, Courtney Love and PJ Harvey. For the rock star’s downtime, the AW15 collection includes long shearling gilets, navy fur bombers and cropped leather jackets. For the brave, suits in a garish pea green also tapped into the vintage vibe.

There seems to be a cry for sex appeal in menswear at the moment and fortunately for Todd, this is his area of expertise.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Editor’s Pick: Jimmy Choo – LCM SS15

 

 

 

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KTZ – LCM SS15

 

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The KTZ collection for SS15 was an odyssey of classical references rendered for the street style age; gladiator skirts in mesh and leather, caps with warrior helmet detailing and medallions featuring the faces of classical busts. The signature KTZ print was woven into towelled robes, whilst jackets and overcoats in a monochrome Greek vase print made a graphic statement.

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There was a stunning attention to detail, with embossed leather shields that doubled as clutches and breastplates embellished so as to resemble ancient armour. A bold shade of orange brought to mind not only the red-figure pottery of Ancient Greece but also the colour of a basketball, epitomising the balance of classical world and street culture that underpinned the show. True to the gladiatorial inspiration at the heart of it all, this was a really strong collection and by bringing in a new world of references, KTZ once again reinvented the cult classics of their brand.

 

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Words: Will Ballantyne-Reid

Photography: Chris Yates

Editor’s Picks: Nicholas Kirkwood LCM SS15

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Menswear Editor: Kristine Kilty

London Collections: Men – A/W ’14- Top looks from Day 3 (Wednesday 8th January)

Tom Ford A/W 14

Tom Ford A/W 14

Day 3 of LC:M featured the A/W ’14 collections of London-based designers such as Burberry Prorsum, Tom Ford, KTZAgi + Sam and Katie Eary. Below, FAULT’s Menswear Editor Kristine Kilty picks out her key looks from each of the aforementioned collections:

Burberry Prorsum:

 

Tom Ford:

 

KTZ:

Agi + Sam:

 

Katie Eary:

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See our highlights from the rest of LC:M (A/W ’14 collections):

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

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