‘Anywhere I Lay My Head’ – Pauline Darley’s FAULT

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Playsuit : Agnes B. Shoes : Converse x Martin Margiela

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Head piece : Stylist’own!Jacket : H&M Brief : Allude

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Shirt : Jean Paul Gaultier vintage Jewels : Stylist’s own Braces : Pierre Cardin Divided Skirt : ASOS Shoes : Dr. Martens

 

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Playsuit : Agnes B. Shoes : Converse x Martin Margiela

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Shirt : COS Top : Topshop Jacket : H&M Braces : Other’s stories Playsuit : Tim Hamilton Shoes : Dr. Martens

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Coat : Massimo Dutti Socks : Falke Shoes : Dr. Martens

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Coat : Massimo Dutti Brief : Allude

Photographer : Pauline Darley @Le Crime
Model : Chloe François @Karin
Assistant : Lara Guffroy
Make up : Stephanie Jacquet
Hair : Brigitte hairstylist using Tigi Products
Styling : Gemma Bedini

Part 2: Paris Fashion Week Roundup, AW14 Womenswear

Following on from PART 1 of our Paris Fashion Week roundup, here’s our review from some of our favourite fashion designers;  CélineBalmain, ACNE, Margiela, Rick Owens and more.

 

Célineceline

 

Balmainbalmain

 

ACNE Studiosacne

 

Saint Laurentlaurent

At Céline and Balmain, animal prints were presented with a similar luxurious subtlety as at Givenchy. Céline’s Phoebe Philo worked the prints into a collection that was beautifully restrained, with a palette of black, grey, cream and camel, woven into which were a muted leopard print, hints of enlarged gingham and textiles like feathered wool and Astrakhan. Balmain’s collection was a much more clear reference to safari, with riffs on safari suits and camo colours, amidst abstracted zebra and leopard print. Zebra print also made an appearance at Acne Studios, in a collection that seemed to also draw on the safari influence, with a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous collection in the Seventies. This retro inspiration was clear in the swirling print patterns, the candied colour palette and wide-legged trousers. This Seventies influence was as potent as ever in the actual Saint Laurent collection, with Hedi Slimane’s ongoing tribute to glam rock androgyny helped along by Alex Turner and Miles Kane sipping champagne in the front row. From the fur and sparkles, to the miniskirts and floppy hats, amidst prints of paisley and plaid, this was a veritable feast of retro style and it is testament to Slimane’s electric modernity and eye for youth that the references didn’t feel tired.

 

Vivienne Westwood westwood

 

Maison Martin Margiela margiela

Vivienne Westwood’s collection was a true celebration of her label, possessing much more impact than her relatively tame Red Label show in London the other week. This show exploded in colour and print, combining label signatures of silhouette and shape with a youthful, almost riotous energy. At Maison Martin Margiela, there was a similar sense of heritage and label hallmarks, but here these were in the treatment of tweed, merged with the silhouettes and tailoring upon which Margiela made its name. The result was an incredibly beautiful and subtle collection that was at once feminine and finely detailed, yet effortless and utterly wearable.

 

Rick Owensrick

 

Gareth Pughgarethpugh

At the opposite end of the spectrum to the candy colours, decorative detailing and concept prints of labels like Chanel and Kenzo, some collections offered the avant-garde minimalism that has been central to Paris since the arrival of the Japanese designers to the city in the 1980s. Rick Owens, who has made this kind of punky minimalism a hallmark all of his own, delivered looks in total blocks of either black, oxblood or grey. The shapes were oversized and, again, biomorphic, with curvilinear sleeves and shell-like drapery. Pleats and variations of textile allowed for a considered experimentation, fully expressing Owens’ unique and intelligent eye.  Gareth Pugh’s collection was in a vein that was at once similar, and entirely different. Whilst minimalist in terms of being rendered entirely in white and silver, this collection was extravagant in silhouette and cut, with Pugh’s tailoring of a breathtaking standard. Consistently eye-catching, he continues to push his label forward with intricate detailing. Rei Kawakubo’s collection for Comme des Garçons was again a pushing of the boundaries of fashion, in line with her desire to make ‘objects of the body’ as declared last season. The result was in biomorphic, tubular knits that hung like literal sculptures , protruding from the body.

 

Comme des Garçonscomme

In terms of the influence of the Paris shows, it will surely be the clever treatment of colour and print that filters into the mainstream; the broken animal prints, the neon inserts, the ongoing block-colouring filtered through pleats and trouser-suits. With your local supermarket and McDonald’s now firmly absorbed into the fashion domain, perhaps the industry’s influence will be more pervasive than ever.

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid

The Waiting Game: Terry Whitaker’s FAULT

The Waiting Game - T.Whitaker - Look 1 (1)

Jacket by Chanel
Top by Fendi
Skirt by Chanel
Shoe by Fendi
Ring by Maison Martin Margiela

 

Jacket by Fendi  Skirt by Chanel Necklace by Chanel Shoes by Christian Louboutin

Jacket by Fendi
Skirt by Chanel
Necklace by Chanel
Shoes by Christian Louboutin

 

Coat by Saint Laurent Dress by Saint Laurent Boots by Saint Laurent  Rings by Carat  Cuff by Chanel

Coat by Saint Laurent
Dress by Saint Laurent
Boots by Saint Laurent
Rings by Carat
Cuff by Chanel

 

The Waiting Game - T.Whitaker - Look 3

Coat by Saint Laurent
Dress by Saint Laurent
Boots by Saint Laurent
Rings by Carat
Cuff by Chanel

 

Dress by Prada Boots by Christian Louboutin Gloves by Chanel Cuffs by Chanel

Dress by Prada
Boots by Christian Louboutin
Gloves by Chanel
Cuffs by Chanel

 

The Waiting Game - T.Whitaker - Look 6

Coat by Chanel
Skirt by Philosophy
Shoes by Fendi
Belt by Chanel

 

The Waiting Game - T.Whitaker - Look 7

Cape by Alexander McQueen
Dress by Giles
Clutch by Lanvin
Booties by Christian Louboutin
Bracelet by Chanel
Necklace by Chanel
Earrings by Chanel

Photographer: Terry Whitaker @ www.terrywhitaker.co.uk
Model: Amelia @ Leni’s Model Management London
Stylist: Jen Michalski-Bray @ www.jen-michalski.com
MUA/Hair: Nina Fay Robinson @ www.ninafayrobinson.tumblr.com using Laura Mercier and Bumble and Bumble

Strokes of Brilliance – Christopher Helmut Grosser’s FAULT

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trouser suit – BCBG Max Azria
leather necklace – Logan Neitzel
shoes – Yigal Azrouel

 

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coat & hood – Yigal Azrouel
ring – Tsura
shoes – MM6 Maison Martin Margiela

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top – Ports 1961
headpiece – Colette Malouf

 

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dress – MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
earrings – Tsura
earring (top) – Michael Spirito
bracelets – Bing Bang
shoes – Dr. Martens

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necklace – WXYZ

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skirt & waistcoat – Marissa Webb
t-shirt – All Saints
earrings – Voce Keen
cuffs – Virgins, Saints & Angels
shoes – Dr. Martens

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leather top & skirt – Ter et Bantine
headband & necklace – Virgins, Saints & Angels

Photographer: Christopher Helmut Grosser @
www.chrisgrosserphoto.com
Stylist: Verena Hafner @ www.verenahafner.com
Hair: Helen Reavey @ www.helenreavey.com
Makeup: Julianna Grogan @ www.juliannagrogan.com
Model: Iryna Iysogor @ Major Model NYC

‘No Surrender’ – exclusive fashion editorial for FAULT Online

1_1

Him: coat&boots:  MCQ by Alexander McQueen, Kilt by Burberry, socks by Tabio;
Her: shirt: MCQ, trousers by Miu Miu, shoes: Rochas Paris, socks: Topman

2_1

Her: coat by Cabinet, skirt by  Miu Miu, Belt by Maison Martin Margiela, vest by American Vintage, socks by Tabio, shoes Dolce & Gabbana;
Him: bomber jeans and boots by MCQ, t-shirt: American Vintage

 

3_1

Him: parka&boots: MCQ, t-shirt: American Vintage, skirt from Beyond Retro;
Her: jacket by Marc Jacobs, Jeans: MCQ, shoes by Dries Van Noten socks: Tabio

4_1

Cardigan by Maison Martin Margiela, t-shirt by DKNY, shoes by Dries van Noten, tights by Pretty Polly

5_1

Him: Waistcoat by Kristian Steinberg, trousers and shoes by MCQ
Her: shirt: MCQ, vest: American Vintage, Skirt and trousers by MIu Miu, shoes by Dries van Noten, socks: Topman

6_1

Her: trousers by Maison Martin Margiela; shoes: Rochas Paris
Him: shirt by Raf Simons; skirt by Miu Miu, jeans and boots by MCQ

7_1

Him: Jacket by Kristian Steinberg, skirt by Miu Miu, jeans and boots: MCQ
Her: top and skirt by Maison Martin Margiela, shoes: Rochas Paris

8_1

Polo top: Raf Simons for Fred Perry, trousers: MCQ

9_1

Her: bomber by MCQ, trousers by Marc Jacobs, socks by Tabio, shoes by Dolce & Gabbana
Him: parka and boots by MCQ, trousers by Kristian Steinberg

Photography: Felicity Sagoe @ Rootdownphotographic
Stylist: Felix Elisabetta Forma
Make up Artist and Hair: Justina Sullivan
Models: Jordyn @ IZAIO Management
Lewis@ Dark Arts Alternative Model Agency
Retouching: Felicity Sagoe & Virginie Montagnon
Special Thanks: Rin, P, Paul and Martin

‘Flying the Flag’: Christoph Köstlin’s FAULT

bustier alexander mcqueen rented at ilove different pants cos  belt kleiderreich vintage leather jacket samsoe&samsoe

bustier: alexander mcqueen (ilove different)
pants: cos
belt: kleiderreich vintage
leather jacket: samsoe&samsoe

 

dress michael kors

dress: michael kors

?white leather jacket marlene birger  slimsuit filippa k necklace cos sunglasses ic berlin

white leather jacket marlene birger
slimsuit filippa k
necklace cos
sunglasses ic berlin

black shawl cos  top daniele alexandrini pants alexander wang available at the f95 fashion store  belt d&g vintage

black shawl cos
top daniele alexandrini
pants alexander wang (f95 fashion store)
belt Dolce & Gabana vintage

?leather pants drycorn furwest rebecca sammler bustier celyn b. rented at ilove different

?leather pants drycorn furwest rebecca sammler
bustier celyn b. (ilove different)

?top diesel vintage pants cos leather bag giorgio brato available at f95 the fashion store

?top diesel vintage
pants cos
leather bag giorgio brato (f95 the fashion store)

?top diesel vintage pants cos leather bag giorgio brato available at f95 the fashion store  shoes prada rented at ilove different

top diesel vintage
pants cos
leather bag giorgio brato (f95 the fashion store)
shoes prada ( ilove different)

?top diesel vintage

?top diesel vintage

?top American Apparel leather skirt cavalli vintage shoes alexander wang rented at killershoe beige bolero martin margiela necklace cos  grey gloves cos

?top American Apparel leather
skirt Roberto cavalli vintage
shoes alexander wang rented at killershoe
beige bolero martin margiela necklace cos
grey gloves cos

photography, idea & concept: christoph köstlin www.christoph-koestlin.com
production: pophouse www.pophouse.org
styling: mine uludag www.ninaklein.com
makeup & hair: jehan radwan www.jeycouture.com
model: trine h. www.scoopmodels.com
photographer‘s assistant: germán alemánn
thanks to: jeanette, lartaun, sandra & orlando

The Sober Age of Couture

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Christian Dior

With the Spring/Summer 2013 Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris fresh in our minds, FAULT contemplates the new sober era of Paris couture.

Haute couture is fundamentally lavish and decadent by default. Catering to an audience for whom money is no object – a prerequisite in belonging to the notoriously exclusive club of couture clientele – luxury will always be a key part of its DNA. The recent seasons have, however, shown a fresh approach – the theatrics of yesteryear have been replaced by a simpler and more sober take on the subject. Paris is bursting with fresh ideas and nowhere else has the change been as obvious as in haute couture. As the 16 fashion houses took to the stage the trend towards new sobriety became clearer than ever.

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Christian Dior

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Giambattista Valli

It would be presumptuous to put all the ‘blame’ on just one man, but Raf Simons certainly has got something to do with it. Only presenting his second couture collection at Christian Dior this season, he has already demonstrated enormous talent and remarkable ability to learn new aesthetic languages and make them his own. Simons spent months studying his master Christian Dior, perhaps the most famous man of haute couture, and is now – respectfully – translating Dior’s vocabulary into a modern artistic expression. By reinventing the ‘New Look’ Simons put a fresh and relaxed spin on a-line skirts and cinched waists. Giambattista Valli also turned down the volume in his collection: while remaining loyal to his repertoire of opulent proportions and flower blossoms, he ditched his usual loud colour pallet for a less vocal combination of blacks and whites, creams and toned down pinks and yellows. It was still Valli at his best, but lighter and easier to digest.

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Valentino

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Elie Saab

The house of Valentino at the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli has been promoting the new simplicity for seasons. Borrowing from the fashion repertoire of forest fairies, the ethereal beauties of pre-Raphaelite paintings and the golden age of couture, they re-imagined not just couture but Valentino’s own heritage. The mandatory red popped up in the shape of flirty strapless dresses that would have made Grace Kelly jump with joy. The go-to designer for the red carpet stylists, Elie Saab, masterfully covered up his glamour puss in long-sleeved grownup gowns and stuck to sober pastels without making discounts on his signature style of heavy beading and luxurious embroidery.

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Chanel

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Chanel

While Dior, Valli and Valentino paid tribute to the golden age of couture, Karl at Chanel remained true to his usual habit of plagiarising himself. While we may be accustomed to Lagerfeld re-heating the same soup over and over again it was refreshing to see him try to adopt the same rhythm as the younger designers. The Chanel girl of the season is lovely – she covers up and she keeps her cool. She is grown up and sophisticated, even in the feathery fairy dresses (do we see a trend here?) of the finale set. Karl perhaps made the biggest statement of the season by sending out not one, but two brides in the finale, clearly expressing his views on same sex marriage.

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Versace

Even Donatella at Atelier Versace chose a more sober approach by experimenting with pinstripe suits (!). Naturally it was all gold embellished and provocatively over-decorated, but what would Versace be without being too much? Pants and pantsuits (with little less embellishment, naturally) were also seen at Armani Privé and Alexis Mabille, opening the door to a whole new set of ideas.

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Armani Privé

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Alexis Mabille

There are many reasons why couturiers are exploring their more sober and sophisticated heritage. Undoubtedly John Galliano’s unceremonious dismissal from Dior in 2011 and Raf Simons’s subsequent appointment as the new Creative Director influenced the new aesthetic, as did the bankruptcy of Christian Lacroix in 2009. Both men were known as the pioneers of exuberant decadence, their catwalks often resembling the opera stage. Galliano’s dismissal marked the end of an era making way to new creativity. It may also have something to do with the inclusion of avant-garde fashion house Maison Martin Margiela to the couture schedule and it most definitely has a lot to do with the economic downturn of recent years. The younger designers in Paris have steered the ship to calmer seas – the future of Paris couture is respectful, both towards the female body and its own heritage.

Words: Katlin Siil

L’Altra Notte

Photographer: Max Botticelli
Stylist: Vanessa Cocchiaro
H & M: Rory Rice
Model: Annemijn @ IMG Milan