Fault Magazine Reviews Belstaff LCM SS17 Presentation

 

Taking inspiration from Bruce Brown’s Motorcycle classic, Belstaff decided to bring the dirt track to London with a film-set homage to On Any Sunday, making it a weekend to remember. Heavily influenced by the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen, the models lazed back on the vintage cars and motor cycles dressed in hand-waxed leather clad and aviator shades. The cast had a carefree attitude exuding off of their rugged exterior – you could almost smell the motor oil radiating off of them. Integral to this collection was the personalisation of the leather jackets and the references to the sun-bleached palette of the film. Recognisable personas from the track were replicated in this collection: Romero with a diamond hand-waxed leather application and Mashburn’s black and yellow colour schemes. These pieces celebrated the pioneering era of 1970s racers as Frederik Dyhr, Belstaff VP Men’s Design explains, “[It] was a defining time for Belstaff because leather manufacturers on both sides of the Atlantic were really embracing this idea of personalising leatherwear and so began an era of strong colour direction”.

 

Rough-edged, lived-in looks, rich tobacco tonals and black burnished finishes set the tone for most outfits. Paying tribute to racing as a coveted sport, we saw relaxed open necklines – an ode to the racing shirts of the 1970s. As a nice surprise Belstaff showed us five looks from the Women’s SS17 pre collection, again taking carefree biker-goddess attitudes as well as hand-waxed suede and lightweight straight-leg denim. The show carried on outside thrilling the public with Twelve-time Trial World Champion Dougie Lampkin MBE performing crazy bike stunts a stones throw away from Queen Liz’s 90thbirthday luncheon. A rather noisy, but lovely birthday surprise, we think!

Words: Lizzie Griffin

FAULT Reviews – Matthew Miller SS16

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The Matthew Miller show was a clean and concise statement for SS16; the colour palette was limited to black, white, palest pink and dark denim blue, whilst tailoring provided a structure of separates. Miller experimented with texture, presenting beautiful coats that were crackled and warped as if coated in paint. Denim was frayed at the hem, spilling over and delicate. This was balanced by the strong tailoring of suit jackets and slack-structured trousers. Beyond these flourishes, the collection was classic Miller and his design DNA has been consistently coded over the last few years. Going forward, there is definitely scope for him to be more experimental – to retain this core without it becoming tired.

Words: Will Ballantyne-Reid

Burberry – LCM SS15

 

 

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The sun shone for the Burberry show this afternoon in their usual glasshouse space in Kensington Gardens stripped back for an open air show with British music newcomer Ben Clementine accompanying on piano.

 

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The laid back agenda continued with casual suits in muted dusky blues, mustard, plum, camel and navy. Oversized satchel bags, scarves loosely thrown once around the shoulders and giant lookbooks carried under the arm were scrawled with a handwritten-style font with words such as ‘exploration’, ‘adventure’ and ‘fields’. The crucial accessory however were the felt bucket hats on every model’s head.

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Matchy-matchy head-to-toe colour was relaxed by pairing with multicoloured trainers, ready for a summer spent in the great outdoors.

Words: Olivia Pinnock

Duchamp – LCM SS15

 

 

224415Duchamp’s presentation of their finely suited models was a veritable soirée. At the breathtakingly beautiful Rosewood London hotel press, buyers and industry sipped on earl grey champagne cocktails and helped themselves to the sushi buffet and macaroons and the models did much the same. Clinking glasses, chatting and laughing, it was sometimes difficult to tell who was a model and who was simply enjoying the party; we eventually distinguished them by a collective rugged handsomeness and by the fact that they were wearing the best made suits in the room.

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Grey check, white linen and blue suits with brown shoes were part of new Creative Director Gianni Colarossi’s vision for ‘elegant English gentry’ and ‘contemporary Riviera’ for next season. Moving on to the rather flashy eveningwear in the form of a silk paisley and a lightweight purple velvet jacket. It’s an occasion to bring out the occasionwear too as Duchamp celebrates 25 years in business this year. Rather!

 

Words: Olivia Pinnock

Have a look at all the great lines Duchamp currently offer: HERE 

Editor’s Pick: Jimmy Choo – LCM SS15

 

 

 

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Huntergather – LCM SS15

 

 

 

 

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Next spring/summer, according to Hunter Gather, on the playground is where we’ll spend most of our days. Chilling out, maxin’, relaxin’ all cool and shooting some b-ball outside of the school.

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Maybe not quite so literally, but the bold primary colours, baggy high-waisted trousers (we knew we’d turn into our father one day) and graphic prints had us reminiscing about our favourite retro TV show. We were also reminiscing over the jelly shoes on the models’ feet; the new beach bar attire for funky feet it seems.

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Although the bold, appliqué shapes were inspired by the recent Matisse exhibition in London, with their colourful character on a relaxed silhouette, they ultimately added to the feel-good, dance hall rhythm of the collection.

 

Word: Olivia Pinnock

KTZ – LCM SS15

 

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The KTZ collection for SS15 was an odyssey of classical references rendered for the street style age; gladiator skirts in mesh and leather, caps with warrior helmet detailing and medallions featuring the faces of classical busts. The signature KTZ print was woven into towelled robes, whilst jackets and overcoats in a monochrome Greek vase print made a graphic statement.

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There was a stunning attention to detail, with embossed leather shields that doubled as clutches and breastplates embellished so as to resemble ancient armour. A bold shade of orange brought to mind not only the red-figure pottery of Ancient Greece but also the colour of a basketball, epitomising the balance of classical world and street culture that underpinned the show. True to the gladiatorial inspiration at the heart of it all, this was a really strong collection and by bringing in a new world of references, KTZ once again reinvented the cult classics of their brand.

 

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Words: Will Ballantyne-Reid

Photography: Chris Yates

Editors Picks: Christopher Shannon – LCM SS15

 

 

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_ARC0234.450x675_ARC0370.450x675   Menswear Editor: Kristine Kilty