FAULT Focus: Remembering Corinne Day

“I’ve always known what I’ve liked and I’ve always gone in the opposite direction of everyone else. I get bored easily of seeing the same thing over and over.” – Corrine Day

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Few women have changed the face of fashion like the late, great Corrine Day. Beginning her 20 year career as a self-taught photographer in the eighties, Day grew to become one of fashion’s most celebrated, prominent and well-loved characters – not only for her groundbreaking work with publications such as Vogue, i-D and The Face, but for her gritty, personal documentary photographs which captured a frank and disarming snapshot of nineties post-rave London from the clubs and council estates where they transpired. Four years on from her untimely death in 2010, the anti-glamour photographer’s unquestionable nous for capturing glimpses of happiness, sadness and incredible beauty in everyday, kitchen sink situations remain as seminal now as the day they were taken.

A one-time international model, Day begun to toy with cameras in the mid-eighties whilst bored on set in the company of Mark Szaszy – the former male model who would later become her husband and treasured life partner. With no formal training, she began shooting her surroundings with a natural instinct that would follow her throughout her career. In 1989, Day had an interview with Phil Bicker, art director of The Face. Through Bicker, Day met stylists Anna Cockburn and Melanie Ward, with whom she was to create some of her most iconic images. Photographing an unknown 14-year-old Kate Moss, plucked from the fringes of Croydon, the unlikely cockney duo shot the notorious ‘Third Summer Of Love’ editorial (had the second really ended?) for The Face whilst having a lark together in Cambersands. The eight-page shoot saw a rambunctious Moss frolicking on the beach clad in Romeo Gigli, Joseph Tricot, battered Birkenstocks and the most magnificent (albeit impractical) feather head-dress from the now defunct Covent Garden boutique World.

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“I was just having a laugh,” Moss is quoted saying of the shoot. “Corinne just wanted to bring out everything I hated when I was 15. My bow legs, the mole on my breast, the way I laughed.”

She would then take Moss with her to Vogue, subsequently forming a formidable friendship that would last until Corrine’s untimely death (Corrine is credited with being the first photographer to shoot Moss for a Vogue cover.) In 1993, Day was commissioned by newly appointed editor, Alexandra Shulman, to inject some much needed reality into proceedings. In the UK, Bjork’s debut portrayed the Icelandic songstress messy haired and clad in an oversized grunge knit, Blur had just released their seminal album Modern Life Is Rubbish and acid house raves were evolving into darker jungle and happy hardcore all-nighters. Cool Britannia was just around the corner, magazines like i-D, Penthouse and RayGun were reporting from the counter-culture underbelly whilst Vogue still touted the impossible and antiquated beauty of supermodels Cindy, Naomi, and Michelle.

Shulman was to receive the much-needed injection of gritty realism that Condé Nast so desired. A waifish and milky-limbed Moss posed nonchalantly in the scruffy Brewer St flat Day occupied at the time for Under-Exposure. Grubby carpets, visible pubic hair, an uncovered duvet, tan tights pulled halfheartedly over sheer underwear. This was the first anti-glamour shoot Vogue had displayed of its kind. The on-paper lingerie shoot took a life of it’s own, paying homage to Day’s haunting personal photography style outside of the fashion world. Corinne Day later said that she took the famous ‘fairy lights’ shot on a day when Kate had been crying after a fight with her then-boyfriend, resulting in the vulnerability that turned this into one of the most iconic and controversial images produced in the ’90s. It’s the most reproduced image of the entire editorial, but the clothes (pink Liza Bruce vest and Hennes chiffon knickers) are rarely remembered, or credited.

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The strapline on the March issue of Vogue that year read ‘London style…London Girls!’, but upon its release, the tabloids whirred into a frenzy, proclaiming the shoot promoted ‘heroin chic’ and ‘bordered on paedophilic’. In the wake of controversy, Day retreated from fashion, choosing instead to tour America with genre band Pusherman, documenting her travels in her lo-fi, grunge aesthetic. The result was her celebrated tome and exhibition of works of works, Diary. Released in 2000, the book contained graphic, raw and honest photos of Day and her friends – most prominently unlikely muse Tara St. James.

Shot amongst the shabby sofas and peeling wallpaper of run-down tenements of Soho and its surrounding areas, the collection documented the sex, drugs and squatting of her bohemian circle of young dreamers. We see Tara crying, smoking, nursing her baby, running around the flat in a string of tinsel, laughing amongst a grotty 3-piece bathroom. The photographs would be deemed voyeuristic were it not for Day’s proximity to and involvement with her subjects; in a harrowing few entries she documents her own brain-tumor diagnosis in 1996, preparal for surgery, and later recovery. By then she was extremely ill and no grizzly details were spared, omitted, censored, a true testament to her unquestionable skill for spotting beauty amongst ruins and diamonds in the rough.

 

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Corinne was diagnosed with a slow growing, grade 2 brain tumor called in November 1996, during which time she was given a prognosis of 8 years to live. Despite her sudden death in 2010, Day’s presence is still felt in the industry today – so often we flick through a fashion glossy and spot some reference, homage or small semblance of Corinne’s celluloid thumbprint. To view her photos is to be invited into her world, one of honest realism – a raw energy that photographers still seek 20 years on.

 

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Words: Liz Connor

‘40’: A Retrospective of Kate Moss by artist Russell Marshall (from 17th Jan)

On the eve of the fourth decade of iconic model and personality Kate Moss, artist Russell Marshall will reveal his latest body of work in her honour. A connoisseur of celebrities due to his time working as the art director for one of Britain’s top newspapers, the artist is drawn to celebrate those personalities who stand out as ‘legendary’ as opposed to ephemeral upon the crowded media landscape. In this spirit, he has engaged with Moss as a subject to produce canvases depicting the model in her various states of glory, through his preferred medium of screen printing.

Russell Marshall - rock chick, mother, model, love her 2011

Russell Marshall – ‘Rock chick, Mother, Model, Love her’, 2011

FAULT will be present at the unveiling of Marshall’s latest body of work to preview the impact of these interesting ideas of media legend upon viewer and artist alike.

Organized in collaboration with Imitate Modern, one of the eminent galleries of the Marylebone set, and Beautiful Crime, a fresh  and interesting new art brand and promotions company, this exhibition will surely draw a new lease of life from an already fascinating example of British pop culture.

Russell Marshall - 'Westwood Geisha', 1992

Russell Marshall – ‘Westwood Geisha’, 1992

Where: Imitate Modern Gallery, 27a Devonshire Street, London, W1G 6PN
When: 17th Jan-15th Feb (open Monday-Saturday, 10am-6pm)

Words by Kat Rutherford

Tyra Banks presents art show, 15, in collaboration with the team behind our FAULT Issue 15 Beauty cover shoot – Udo Spreitzenbarth & Ty-Ron Mayes

TYRA BANKS Presents:15

TYRA BANKS Presents: 15

From September 9th – November 9th ’13 at Jack Studios, New York City, supermodel Tyra BanksFAULT’s Issue 15 Beauty section cover star- will present an exhibition of photographs of herself taken in the style of some of her famous modelling counterparts.  Tyra has once again collaborated with the team that worked on her shoot for FAULT – photographer Udo Spreitzenbarth and creative director Ty-Ron Mayes - to create a series of unretouched, monochramatic images that seek to capture the essence of iconic fellow supermodels – friends, colleagues and competitors alike.

“When Spreitzenbarth and Mayes approached Banks in 2012 about working on an art project together, Banks shared with them her vision of 15. The series then became a reality through artist collaboration with hairstylist Sher Rae Tucker–a protégé of the legendary Oribe, and Emmy award-winning make-up artist Valente Frazier.

In the age of pixilated veils, there is no digital manipulation to the imagery. 15 is Tyra Banks in raw, un-retouched images: the photography, styling, and transformative hair and make-up, along with Banks’ extraordinary ability to emulate each character, takes the notion of “black and white” beyond the portrayed models’ varying ethnicity and a description of the photographs.”

… “Named for the number of the iconic women portrayed, and the age at which Tyra began her modeling career, 15 includes interpretive images of Banks personifying the supermodels: Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Lauren Hutton, Jerry Hall, Iman, Kate Moss, Twiggy, Brooke Shields, Claudia Schiffer, Carmen Dell’Orefice and Grace Jones. Banks also portrays the new wave of talent that has resurrected the genre: Kate Upton, Karlie Kloss and Cara Delevingne. Rounding out the 15, an adult Tyra emulates herself at 15 years old.

With the generous support of Chantelle and VeeV, Tyra Banks Presents: 15 will open on September 9, 2013, with a VIP reception from 7-8pm followed by a general reception from 8-10pm at Jack Studios, 601 W 26 St. (12 FL), New York City

 

Tyra Banks Presents: 15

Images of Banks as 15 iconic supermodels

Photographs by Udo Spreitzenbarth

September 9-November 9, 2013

 Jack Studios, 601 W 26 St. (12 FL), New York City

About Udo Spreitzenbarth

Udo Spreitzenbarth is an international fashion and art photographer. Spreitzenbarth was born in Germany and currently lives in New York City with his wife, model/actress Melissa Kurland. While studying architecture at the Technische Universität Darmstadt, Spreitzenbarth developed an interest in modeling and fashion photography. It was then that he realized his passion for being behind the camera. After his first year in New York City, he shot his first billboard campaign that landed on a screen in Times Square. His editorial photography has been featured in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan and more. His art photography has received international acclaim with a successful series of solo exhibitions in Berlin, Frankfurt, Shanghai, and Beijing.

Kids dont Drink and Drive: Dream and Drive

The Kills are not just an indie band, they are a very good looking and extremely talented indie band! With one half married to uber model Kate Moss, the other side of the coin, Allison Mosshart can certainly hold her own in the pretty woman stakes. With the band’s tenth anniversary looming, and a whole lot of interesting tales on the way, it’s no wonder that a book documenting their time on the road, which for the past nine years has been quietly brewing, has just looking for an excuse to be released!

‘Dream and Drive’ a new coffee table book by photographer Kenneth Cappello is an intimate, personal and down right compulsive insight to the bands up and downs on tour. Including rare and never see before footage, Cappello, as a friend, has caught the duo in all lights. From sunrise strolls to late night parties, the unique book is shot in a reportage style and has been pulled together from over 20,000 photographs and 600 rolls of film.


Available from the Marc Jacobs bookstore Bookmarc, the exhibition launched in London’s Hoxton Gallery last night to a packed Private View. I spied Mr Hince, but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to pap him next to an image of himself- but I can confirm he looks very much like his pictures! And when he disappeared into the crowds, I was left admiring the scenery with Pam Hogg. So not a bad night all in all!

Check it out –  at the Hoxton Gallery, Kingsland Road, London until 2nd October or if you miss that, you can always buy the book.

By Sara Darling

Dazed and Confused- A good exhibition if ever I saw one

Today has been a day of culture, as I popped along to the “Making it up as we go along” exhibition. Trying to squeeze twenty years of one of the edgiest British fashion magazines into the rooms at Somerset House is no mean feat, but the exhibition, curated by Jefferson Hack and Emma Reeves, cherry picked the most memorable and visually inspiring stories, shoots and artwork, in a very Dazed way.

The show was not all about art on walls, but was displayed on cubes and mirrored boxes, which helped with the bottleneck of visitors who were vying to get in to the cosy rooms at Somerset House. Five rooms and the corridor were taken over by the magazine, and I have a feeling it could have easily taken over another five

Choosing the highlights must have been a logisitical nightmare and name checking all the photographers an impossible task; So many creatives have been involved with the style magazine, but it is the iconic covers and controversial stories which have made the cut.

Throughout the exhibition, I kept my eyes peeled for magazines I purchased in my youth. Some were there- shame I haven’t still got them! But I think the same about The Face magazine and I worked there..

As a go to bible for reference, students and fashionistas, Dazed & Confused has been one step ahead of pop culture since its explosive launch in London in 1991; With Rankin on board, it soon developed into a platform for emerging artists, designers and musicians who all wanted a piece of the pie. As an independent title, controversy remains part of its appeal, and the exhibition references some of it’s most memorable stars including Björk to Blondie, Pharell Williams to Kate Moss.

It’s almost too much to take in, in one visit, but as its free I might even go again!

Showing until 29th January 2012.

By Sara Darling

The men of London are a very lucky bunch

From an insiders point of view, menswear day at London Fashion week is much more relaxed, the pace has slowed down considerably, and the fashpack allow themselves to wear what they would normally and chill, without fear of being papped (or not papped if their outfit isn’t ‘funky’ enough!) It also brings alot of commercial interest from the big buyers/editors, who can pretty much get to all the shows as they don’t overlap and are in fairly sensible locations!

With 25 designers showing, and particular attention paid to developing the rising talent, the cross section of menswear is getting more diverse each season.
This season’s menswear day opened with James Long, a recipient of the first NEWGEN MEN talent support scheme.

His show took us on a summer expedition into the jungle; With his use of leopard spots and snakeskin in his collection of woven tops and shorts. Natural linens and cotton yarns with added sparkle mean that this will also keep you cool in the city. Easy to wear and very practical.

LFW

Elsewhere, Topman Design put pyjama suits on the map for the men, showing in the Royal Opera House with the likes of Rick Edwards, Alex Zane and the boys from Dirty Sexy Things, crowding in to the full to the rafters show;, The show opened with 40s inspired double breasted suits and soon moved onto paisley and more exotic styling in the shape of loose bottoms and an array of clutch bags!

Christopher Shannon showed us that tassels could bring a whole new lease of life to the humble shirt; His collection as a whole was quite utilitarian, but by adding tartan and appliquéd sweaters into the mix, this broadened the range and the shirts, bomber jackets and brogues kept is ideal for summer in the city.

For a more preppy collection, look no further than Hardy Amies, who showed a classy collection of shorts suits, for a sophisticated palette. With the colour range including dusty pink, reds and turquoise, this is definitely reminiscent of romance, and was inspired by Venice and churches.

J W Anderson kept things edgy with molecular prints from the school science lab. The geometric prints were worn with woven leather overlays. Paisley also made an appearance on shorts suits and sleeveless tops and ankle skimming trousers were a main stay.

LFW

The fantastically talented Katie Eary has been collaborating with Kayne West, as the models swaggered down the catwalk at the off schedule venue. Highlights were the tangerine two piece suits, two tone white and metallic trousers and the panther prints. Not for the faint hearted, but definitely fit for a rap star. And from my seat opposite Mr West, he seemed to agree.

Closing the main stage at Somerset House, was KTZ who sent out a mens (and womens) tribal/bondage inspired collection, entitled “It began in Africa” which featured lots of leather, strapping, baseball caps and tattoo prints; Fitting into the niche of the boy who likes to show his body, KTZ are leaders of the edgy pack.

No menswear day would be complete without an appearance of Kate Moss on the FROW, and this time she chose to accompany husband Jamie Hince to the final show of Fashion Week at James Small- His collection included floral shorts and shirts and a selection of transparent shirts and t shirts. Very rock n roll.

Menswear day at LFW certainly does offer something for everyone and long live the celebration of the diversity that fashion offers.

Glassing-if you haven’t heard of them already, you will!

Glassin

If you want to jump on the latest celebrity sunglasses bandwagon, look no further than newbie brand Glassing; Already spied on the visages of Kate Moss, Mischa Barton and P Diddy, they have added to their ‘Music Skin’ range which is influenced by four different musical genres- Blues, Opera, Jazz and Funky..

Moss was spotted in the black and gold ‘blues’ shades and I am lusting after a Funky pair, and at a not bad designer price, that might happen sooner than I think!

The latest addition is called Swing and uses this seasons trade mark crackle effect on each frame, meaning no two pairs are the same. Inspired by 60s styling and particularly John Lennon, these frames come in cobalt blue, pink and black. Not for the shy and retiring, but if you want to hang with the A list…!

Designed by Italians, who have lived in Ibiza and now seen across the faces of the all the cool kids in town. Choose your music and make your mark. Available at Harrods and www.glassing.it

Question Time with the new CK One boy…


Aaron Frew is gaining an international reputation in the world of fashion, thanks to being the current face of CK One; As well as already achieving one of his life’s dreams of working with the worlds best photographers, stylists and designers, and he is still only twenty! Signed to D1, one of the busiest agencies in London, they always have a keen eye to spot new talent. If you think you could be the next Frew, or fancy yourself as a bit of a Moss, get in touch to show them your personality. In this agency, size doesn’t matter! They are currently seeking new faces, so what have you got to lose? Check them on twitter for contact details. twitter.com/d1models.

CK ONE

FAULT: How long have you been modelling?
Aaron: I’ve been modeling since I was 16, so it would be for four years but full time only a year.

FAULT: How did you get discovered or did you go to Agencies yourself?
Aaron:  I got spotted on myspace from a photographer when i was 16 but I approached agencies myself.

FAULT: What was your biggest campaign so far?
Aaron:  The biggest campaign I’ve done so far is for a CK ONE it was amazing being part of it and it was so much fun working with all the other models from around the world and being shot by Steven Meisel was so amazing!

FAULT: Does your job take you all round the world?
Aaron:  My job has taken me to a few places mostly New York – I went 5 time last year; Ive also got to go to Paris and Germany and traveled up and down the UK.

FAULT: What would you do if you weren’t a model? What were you doing before?
If I wasn’t a model today, I would probably still be living in the East Midlands with my mum and working a normal 9-5 job in a shop. Before I was model, I was a sales assistant back in my home town- it was very long and boring.

FAULT: Did you find ever think you wouldn’t make it, as you are shorter than the average male model? Do you have your own male model heros?
Aaron:  I’ve always been a very ambitions person and I never give up! So when I want something I go for it and I wont stop till I get it! So I always thought I would get somewhere in the fashion world! But I never thought I would be where I am today with an amazing agency D1 MODELS supporting me and being a short model! There are a few male models I look up to and who inspire me. They are: Ash Stymest. Luke Worral and the new face of fashion Issac Carew!

FAULT: Do you have much competition at castings? You have a very definite look.
Aaron:  Everyday I face competition at castings because clients always prefer the taller lad. Even if they like my look, a lad who maybe a tiny bit taller will get booked over me so I have to show them my energetic personality and hope it enough to back up my look and that it makes up for not being 6 ft!

FAULT: Whats the best thing about being 5’7?
Aaron:  The best thing about being 5 ft 7 is that straight away I’m different to all the other models and I always get the funny look from other models and clients which I kinda like! I would prefer to be different than be the same as everyone else! What you see is what you get!

FAULT: Clients obviously like your look, do you feel there’s a space for more ‘muses’ now in fashion – who don’t have to be stereotypical?
Aaron:  Totally! Fashion is changing in many ways especially with models, more unique quirky models are appearing in magazines and on the runway! Each model now has something different about them. e.g Lara stone my good friend-she’s known for her gap in her teeth; Kate Moss for her height, Alice Dellal for her shaved sided hair.

FAULT: Who do you look up to?
Aaron:  I look up to Kate Moss, she’s achieved so much for being short! She’s my muse! so strange that she shot ‘ck one back in 1994-1995 and I just shot ck one in 2011 and we were the short models in the campaign!

FAULT: Who would you love to shoot for?
Aaron:  I would love to shoot for JEREMY SCOTT, GIVENCHY, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, MUGLER ….. I could go on forever i wanna do it all and more!

FAULT: Have you got aspirations to get into presenting/acting like a lot of other successful models?
Aaron:  When my modelling career comes to end, I would love to go in presenting, either on telly or doing a radio something in which I can with interact with other people!

FAULT: What’s next for Aaron Frew?
Aaron: Whats next for me eh? You’ll be seeing my face alot more I’ll tell you that now. The world is my oyster and I’m guna work until I’ve achieved all my dreams and more!