LFW SS18, Saturday 16th September, Day Two Highlights

JW Anderson

For his eponymous SS18 collection, JW Anderson drifted away from the rigid format of his usual shows and turned to a setting that went back to basics. The guests sat on chairs coiled around a stripped-back rustic installation that translated through to the tone of the clothes too. This collection was a stark contrast to JW Anderson’s previous, more abstract shows, instead, this season everything was so much more simple and wearable.

They came in the form of towel-textured dresses, minimalist two-pieces, deep V-necks and peek-a-boo detailing that reflected a state of undress. As well as cropped bardots, bralettes molded around the breasts – a decon-recon look that portrayed the plainest form of the art of construction. Keeping in line with this earthy palette, stripes ran vertically down the body ensuring this was the designer’s most wearable collection yet. And what was held under each models’ arm? Oh, next season’s ‘it’ bag, of course.

Lizzie Griffin

Markus Lupfer

Maybe the city actually takes a snooze whilst the girl never sleeps, ever thought of it like that? Markus Lupfer has. This collection was made for the woman addicted to her social life; too busy to sleep and with enough off-kilter glamour to practically be a part of old-Hollywood. Bold pinks, popping blues and jungle greens, psychedelic 3D florals, rainbows, butterflies and prints of monkeys swinging from tree to tree – it really was a collection to get lost in.

Living every minute in HD, models donned print-heavy blouses tucked into poolside hot pants and black sheer acted as an outer layer over skirts to add a slice of naughtiness. Hems were cropped to the calf to show off ballet-wrapped ankles, and models reclined on print-packed chairs donning huge sunglasses as if they were about to catch a tan – in their hedonistic-fuelled lives perhaps this was the only moment they could rest their eyes. With the world constantly shifting around us, Markus Lupfer’s girls were the only ones who can truly keep up with it all.

Lizzie Griffin

 

 

Jasper Conran

This season Jasper Conran looked to the outdoors for inspiration, designing a collection that had a fashionable practically. The focus- primary colours of blue and yellow with injections of bright greens, ripe oranges and frosty pinks as the clothes played with texture and silhouette. There was an undeniable athleisure element as models sauntered the runway in colour clashing sandals. Layering was key as translucent tops were worn under boxy bomber jackets and paired with cropped knee length crepe trousers. Sunny yellow camisoles and slip dressed were kept warm under toggled rain macs in shades of forest green and aquatic blue. Straying from the loose shapes, co-ord sets and fitted dresses in light knits featured diamond patterns and linear stripes that enhanced the figure, altogether achieving the hard balancing game of smart-casual. So what has this collection taught us? Colour blocking is back and should adorn the clothing of stylish Londoners who don’t mind getting caught in the rain.

Sarah Barnes

 

Simone Rocha

Another season, another stand out collection, as Simone Rocha’s SS18 show was like watching eclectically dressed dolls walk the runway. White satin dresses were toughened up with chunky pointed brogues, showing us how to be stylishly feminine yet masculine simultaneously. Deconstructed lace skirts were contradicted by shoulder-padded jackets that belted tight at the waist, all monochromatic but simply made colourful by texture. Simone’s love of sheerness sneaked in as garments featured netted panels exposing delicate skin on the models legs but off set by chunky earrings and hair clips. We cannot fail to mention the display of dark florals that floated down the runway. Whether it be the large scattered black flowers that adored dresses or the micro florals in buttery yellows and raw reds that covered sleeves, it is the newest trend to wear- topped off with a oversized laced collar so that you are truly one of Simone Rocha’s real life dolls.

Sarah Barnes

 

Ports 1961

Ports is well known for its sleek cuts and low key palette that is all wrapped up in a sharp cosmopolitan style. This season experimented with fringing and stripes in a collection that made us want to update our office wear instantly. Ports approached suiting in a serious manner, offering up an emerald green three-piece that showed off tailoring off to its best. Pleated skirts in crisp whites and yellows were styled with colour-coordinated tops and over sized pointed collars that pulled attention to the models necklines. T-shirt dresses were neatly covered in Mondrian style stripes in hues of yellow and blue, while the white office skirt was reborn in sheer fabric with thick checked fringing. Proving that what you wear to the office can be relaxed yet smart and that you cant go wrong with a pair of bold tasselled flats.

Sarah Barnes

EDITOR’S PICK: JW Anderson – LCM SS15

 

 

 

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London Collections: Men – A/W ’14- Top looks from Day 2 (Tuesday 7th January)

Day 2 of LC:M featured the A/W ’14 collections of London-based designers such as Alexander McQueen, JW Anderson and Kay Kwok. Below, FAULT’s Menswear Editor Kristine Kilty picks out her key looks from each of the aforementioned collections:

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Alexander McQueen:

 

JW Anderson:

 

Kay Kwok:

 

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See our highlights from the rest of LC:M (A/W ’14 collections):

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

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What Men Want: Key Trends from LCM

With the second season of London Collections Men, sweeping us off our feet in early January, there were a lot of lustful looks from the fashionistas at the AW13 collections. Especially as the snow was imminent, and the wintry clothes looked so appetizing.

Several key trends were prominent, although as usual there were the usual out-takes which probably won’t be featuring on the high street, but maybe in high end
magazines!

My pick of the crop are the return of the check. Bigger and bolder than before, menswear is getting more confident! E Tautz fused grey and orange in a delightful combination of Prince of Wales check in suiting, and even used it in directional-cut coats and knits. YMC favoured a more subdued hue and used reds and greys in a safe “day jumper”. Angelo Galasso was a far more opulent take on the check with suits and jackets oozing luxury using hounds tooth and herringbone patterns alongside mink fur bow ties, and crocodile skin coats! Or if that last sentence terrified you, you can stick with the day-friendly lumberjack style shirting at Lou Dalton

Prints have always been popular with designers, and the male shopper and this is set to flourish in SS13, with AW taking this lead. Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen brought back slick heritage tailoring, and fused monochrome reds with a very memorable stained glass print. Daring and dandy, for fashion seekers only! Katie Eary’s collection was based on death and decay, but far from being a moody teenage bedroom horror book fantasy, it was actually quite upbeat, with inky sports basics taking centre stage in a range of bright hues, with florals rubbing shoulders with printed hems and chunky gold accessories. Agi and Sam, mashed up patterned trousers with mis-matched shirts, Jonathan Saunders introduced tie- dye and Joseph Turvey worked the spotty look, in easy to wear separates in a dalmatian print.

Knits are always popular with the girls, and this season the boys can get their hands on the infamous ‘housewives favourite”. With newbie designers Sibling promising “fuck off knitting” you can only imagine it’s not going to be what your granny gets up to! Oversized with a capital O, and inspired by cartoon characters. Mickey Mouse mittens and giant scarves competed the show. But if clashing colours and taking up two seats on the bus is your thing, then Sibling is bound to be already on your radar. Topman Design is also offering a much safer nod to knitwear. Styled on the catwalk as a head to toe block colour look, this is bound to work better, in the real world as a nod to the knit. The sweaters independently are safe and snuggly, with Christopher Shannon also sending out a novelty Christmas sweater or two!

Another key trend is androgyny. Qasimi Homme led the field with wearable leather, inspired by film noir, the collection focused on updating traditional menswear classics, such as cropped suit jackets, and military coats by incorporating oversize drop shoulders. Detailing was central to the collection with the introduction of contrast leather and detachable pony collars on shirting which is a subtle and extremely wearable way to work a leather look. JW Anderson is the label to look for if you are slightly more experimental . Clinical and some might say, carnal separates worn with knee high boots might be a bit much for the traditional. But if your body is a blank canvas, and you like to let your clothes do the talking, this is definitely a designer to look at.

Bringing fashion back to reality with a bump, and a collective sigh of relief! I am personally pleased to announce that the bomber is back. Cropped, above the waist jackets in a variety of hues, with Astrid Andersen, Christopher Raeburn and James Long marshaling the mini overcoat. Layered over everything from suits to sweat pants, it is set to be the new Aviator, probably combined with some space age shades- or is that just the stylist in me coming out?

By Sara Darling
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MARIKA PAGE’S TOP PICKS FROM LCM ’13

 

Marika Page – one of FAULT’s Fashion Editors and Freelance Stylist – presents a round-up from this year’s London Collections: Men. 
 

2 minute Q&A:

FAULT: Stand-out show? M: Richard Nicoll for wearability but also exciting show pieces like his silver jumpsuit!  Celebrating post-punk ‘no-wave’ rebellion featuring beanies and paint splashed prints.

Best newcomer? Xander Zhou for hitting all the right trends:  Typography (his ‘boys will be boys’ sweaters), long coats and colour ‘accenting’ against black.
 
Weirdest item/style/pattern? Christopher Kane’s Frankenstein graphic prints, J.W. Anderson’s bandeau tops and ruffled shorts, and Sibling’s mushroom shaped hats.
 
Top piece of advice for stylists looking forward to Autumn/Winter? Look to Katie Eary‘s show for how winter florals can be made to look masculine.
 
General advice on styles to look for/avoid? Long coats, bomber jackets, combining sports wear and tailoring, colour ‘accenting’ red and black, typography, holographic, and oversized wear.  A major presence of bright orange presented in the collections which personally I would avoid (as it’s so difficult to wear!).
 

Images sourced from Style.com, Vogue.com, and Fashion156.

The men of London are a very lucky bunch

From an insiders point of view, menswear day at London Fashion week is much more relaxed, the pace has slowed down considerably, and the fashpack allow themselves to wear what they would normally and chill, without fear of being papped (or not papped if their outfit isn’t ‘funky’ enough!) It also brings alot of commercial interest from the big buyers/editors, who can pretty much get to all the shows as they don’t overlap and are in fairly sensible locations!

With 25 designers showing, and particular attention paid to developing the rising talent, the cross section of menswear is getting more diverse each season.
This season’s menswear day opened with James Long, a recipient of the first NEWGEN MEN talent support scheme.

His show took us on a summer expedition into the jungle; With his use of leopard spots and snakeskin in his collection of woven tops and shorts. Natural linens and cotton yarns with added sparkle mean that this will also keep you cool in the city. Easy to wear and very practical.

LFW

Elsewhere, Topman Design put pyjama suits on the map for the men, showing in the Royal Opera House with the likes of Rick Edwards, Alex Zane and the boys from Dirty Sexy Things, crowding in to the full to the rafters show;, The show opened with 40s inspired double breasted suits and soon moved onto paisley and more exotic styling in the shape of loose bottoms and an array of clutch bags!

Christopher Shannon showed us that tassels could bring a whole new lease of life to the humble shirt; His collection as a whole was quite utilitarian, but by adding tartan and appliquéd sweaters into the mix, this broadened the range and the shirts, bomber jackets and brogues kept is ideal for summer in the city.

For a more preppy collection, look no further than Hardy Amies, who showed a classy collection of shorts suits, for a sophisticated palette. With the colour range including dusty pink, reds and turquoise, this is definitely reminiscent of romance, and was inspired by Venice and churches.

J W Anderson kept things edgy with molecular prints from the school science lab. The geometric prints were worn with woven leather overlays. Paisley also made an appearance on shorts suits and sleeveless tops and ankle skimming trousers were a main stay.

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The fantastically talented Katie Eary has been collaborating with Kayne West, as the models swaggered down the catwalk at the off schedule venue. Highlights were the tangerine two piece suits, two tone white and metallic trousers and the panther prints. Not for the faint hearted, but definitely fit for a rap star. And from my seat opposite Mr West, he seemed to agree.

Closing the main stage at Somerset House, was KTZ who sent out a mens (and womens) tribal/bondage inspired collection, entitled “It began in Africa” which featured lots of leather, strapping, baseball caps and tattoo prints; Fitting into the niche of the boy who likes to show his body, KTZ are leaders of the edgy pack.

No menswear day would be complete without an appearance of Kate Moss on the FROW, and this time she chose to accompany husband Jamie Hince to the final show of Fashion Week at James Small- His collection included floral shorts and shirts and a selection of transparent shirts and t shirts. Very rock n roll.

Menswear day at LFW certainly does offer something for everyone and long live the celebration of the diversity that fashion offers.