FAULT catches up with actor Julian Morris

FAULT caught up with actor Julian Morris – star of 24, Pretty Little Liars and New Girl – to talk legends, London, and his much-anticipated new BBC drama series Man in an Orange Shirt.

Grey suit trousers and jacket – Hugo Boss Hugo Boss / Black jumper – Hugo Boss

A lot of people will recognise you from Pretty Little Liars, and the final season is now on Netflix, so how was it bringing a seven-year-long show to a close?

I came back to resolve the character of Dr Wren Kingston in a way which I felt was fun and satisfying. I’m hoping fans have been satisfied with the ending – it’s packed full of twists – and the team have been planning it for a long time. I had lot of fun with the cast and crew of Pretty Little Liars – they’re a really talented group and I made a lot of friends on the show. I think when it started in 2010, Pretty Little Liars was bold and transgressive, for example featuring young lesbians in the way it did, in the time that it did. Similarly, Man in an Orange Shirt is bold now – looking at oppression by society of gay characters, and their internal struggles too.

Micro check suit jacket and trousers – Aquascutum / Purple basic point collar shirt – John Varvartos

Man in an Orange Shirt is of course the upcoming BBC drama in which you star alongside the legendary Vanessa Redgrave – what can you tell us about the show?

Well firstly, it’s really good! Director Michael Samuels has done a great job, the cinematographer made it beautiful, the writer made it moving. It touches on something which hasn’t been properly explored in mainstream media before. My character seemed like a new challenge for me – he lives in an accepting society but has grown up with a shame, a self-oppression and a trauma that is hard to work through but truthful. All of that is explored against the backdrop of a beautiful love story. Most of my scenes are with Vanessa Redgrave, and she was phenomenal to work with. She is smart, challenging, and intelligent and she really keeps you on your toes. We got on fantastically and had this natural and immediate chemistry, I absolutely adore her. I have also been working with her son-in-law Liam Neeson too!

USA Bowery fit Jeans – John Varatos star / Mandarin Collared shirt – Zadig and Voltaire SS17 / Jacket – Brookes Brothers SS17

It sounds like you’ve been working with some pretty big names and in some amazing shows and films!

You know what, the past year has been one of dream characters and dream casts – for example filming Felt with Liam Neeson and of course Man in an Orange Shirt with Vanessa Redgrave. Some of the characters I’ve been working on have scared me and challenged me, and that’s wonderful. I’m really director-driven in the choices I make and I want to continue to work with people I love, respect and adore. There’s a very long list of amazing directors I would love to work with, but Ang Lee and Yann Demange are definitely up there.

Grey suit trousers and jacket – Hugo Boss Hugo Boss / Black jumper – Hugo Boss

You grew up here in London – what do you love about our city and what do you do when you’re back here?

Yeah, I grew up in North London, so it’s been great spending time back in London filming Man in an Orange Shirt. I live in LA now but I definitely feel like a Londoner, the city draws you in. I just love the people, the city, the history, the culture and importantly the differences. I’m very friend-orientated so I love seeing old friends in London, enjoying good food and good drink. I also love to walk around London – the history and the parks – I think it’s a British thing to appreciate good lawns and parks!

Cream English Riviera knitted texture jumper – Hackett

So you love London, friends, food, lawns – what are your other passions and interests?

I absolutely love music, I thrive on music. I was listening to the new Bonobo album on the way to our interview, and that’s great, but I love such a range of genres – electronic, folk, rock. Someone else I think is really amazing is Erykah Badu – I got to work with her on Hand of God which was an absolute dream, and she was as wonderful as I hoped. There was moment on set when I let her into my trailer and she dressed me in Ethiopian clothes and jewellery and lit some incense – it was brilliantly bizarre! I also love design – in clothing, in architecture – I really appreciate when something’s beautifully made.

White collared shirt – Hugo Boss / Navy Blue suit jacket and trousers – Hugo Boss / Navy pull over – Michael Kors

Any final comments or advice for FAULT readers?

Now is a spectacular time in history – there’s so much change, it’s such an interesting place in time to be. What’s important now is to be engaged, to hold those in power to account, to vote – even if you’re uninspired by the choices, be sceptical, challenge fake news, and seek out good journalism even if it means paying for it.

Man In An Orange Shirt – starring Julian Morris, Vanessa Redgrave and David Gyasi – airs on BBC 2 this summer.

Words Angus Wyatt

Photography Stephanie YT

Styling Indigo Goss

Grooming Lillie Russo

Stylist’s Assistant Chloe Stewart

FAULT Fashion – interview with Barbara Hulanicki

Barbara Hulanicki designer

Barbara Hulanicki. Photography by Dania Graibe

Whilst many fashion legends of the 60s have faded into history, Barbara Hulanicki, founder and head designer of Biba, is still making her artistic mark on the world.  Though she is only involved with the Biba brand, which made a high street fashion and interiors revival in 2010, on a consultancy basis she has busied herself with (much more exciting) ventures in interior design and a new fashion range called Iconclub.

The 79 year old – and OBE – now lives in Miami, designing the interiors for hotels and nightclubs and turning her narrative illustrations into scarves, bags and tshirts that inject the same sense of fun and liveliness as the Biba brand did in the 60s with a modern day update.

FAULT quizzed Barbara on her thoughts on fashion yesterday and today…

Talk us through the concepts for the illustrations on the new scarf collection…

It is so exciting to work with new digital printing techniques. In the past, I was restricted by cost because of the number of screens one would want for a design yet today it’s so wonderful to design on a computer, anything is possible. I generally start with an original illustration and we scan it in the computer and have a go with colors, styles, prints etc.

Barbara Hulanicki scarf

Why did you decide to manufacture the new scarf line in Britain?

I just wanted so badly to work with a UK factory like I did during the BIBA days where we manufactured everything in London’s east end.

What’s your design philosophy?

I just keep observing everything and watch how and when fashion changes. The most recent is how the high heel died! I was wondering when women would just say STOP.

We think it’s incredible that you’re still working, do you think you will ever stop designing?

There is no “work” word in my vocabulary. There is so much more to learn and absorb from new situations and meeting new people.

What does it take to succeed in the design business?

Perseverance and just hard plod!

Iconclub Barbara Hulanicki

What have been some of your favourite projects to work on?

There are always new projects coming up. I seem to be interior design at the moment. I am very excited about working on a Hotel in Hollywood called Runway. It is the perfect partner for my fashion project Iconclub.

Why did you decide to settle in Miami?

It was not a conscious decision. I loved it as it was so rough, so raw. I came to Miami Beach to work on a club in the late eighties for Ronnie Wood. I met Chris Blackwell during that time, and he had just bought a job lot of hotels in Miami Beach. He gave me one to begin with, The Marlin Hotel. Then I continued to work with him on his hotels for about twenty years.

What do you think about the revival of 60s and 70s fashion in modern fashion?

Oh boy! Seen and done it and to me it’s not really new, the designers are stuck!

Who do you think is creating groundbreaking fashion today?

I really like Rick Owens and a few people who are still independent and not just governed by sales figures, the people who move forward regardless.

What’s your fault?

I am lazy, terrified to give in.

FAULT Focus: Interview with milliner Mr Wood

 

2

After recently working with the likes of luxury brand Louis Vuitton for their fashion film ‘L’Invitation au Voyage’ (featuring David Bowie and Arizona Muse), British born milliner Loren Wood took the time to discuss his creative process in an exclusive interview with FAULT. A self-taught milliner and former finalist for Grazia’s annual millinery contest known as the ‘Hat Factor’, Loren has garnered attention within the industry for his fantastical works using taxidermy. Now branching out from this area of expertise, Loren gave us an insight into the world of hat-making and where his future as a milliner is heading.

FAULT: Introduce yourself, your design background and what you currently do as a vocation.

Loren: My name is Loren Wood and I am currently a Bespoke Tailoring  Student though I have worked in costume and millinery for the past 5 years.  I was always put off by studying fashion or millinery as a lot of courses out there focus too much on the design element and process while I’ve always been interested in the construction. I’d rather spend hours with a needle and thread than cutting pictures out of Vogue and sticking them together to create a pretty mood board.

I did initially apply to universities – I was offered a place at Wimbledon school of art though turned it down as the course didn’t have enough practicality. I accepted a place in Southampton solent. I can’t recall the course title but after a few months I realised that university wasn’t the shortcut that my teachers had preached and that the debt to face at the end wouldn’t have ever been justified. I reached the conclusion that it would in fact be a lot easier and cheaper to learn through work experience and internships.

 

Take us through the steps in designing and producing new hats. Where do you often pull ideas for new pieces?

Inspiration can come from anywhere. I don’t think it’s possible to look for inspiration. Inspiration is very spontaneous and shouldn’t be forced or fabricated. I avoid fashion shows, museums and galleries as much as possible as I believe it can be too influential which is never a good thing because you end up ripping off other people’s work without realising and before you know it, you’re Topshop. I do, however, find that I get inspired by individual artistic styles and movements. For example, my second collection was inspired by the Victorian painter James Hardy Jr. who was famed for his dead game compositions which in turn inspired me to create a range of head pieces using game that looked as if they were recently shot. I enjoyed the irony spending hours making dead game animals look… dead. I never sketch; too much time is wasted sketching. When an idea pops into my head, I create it. Of course it may change dramatically but that just demonstrates all the ideas that could have gone to waste.

 

On average, how long does it take you to complete a hat?

On average, start to finish, a week, maybe two. It depends completely on the specimen I use or the size etc.

 

What materials do you use the most often for your products?

Well ‘traditionally’ taxidermy was a key element in all of my work so I would source specimens from all over, now however, as taxidermy has become so popular, absolutely every seventeen year old DJ/stylist/photographer has now enrolled on a ‘stuff your own cat’ course, so my interests in using animals has dwindled. Of course this makes me sound like a hipster from hell but when I originally starting making head pieces people were interested in them because they liked the idea and recognised the references to historical fashions and saw them more as art pieces; now however people think they’re cool because taxidermy is cool and I am now presented with too many e-mails from first years wanting to use my headpieces (for free, of course) because they are planning on doing a gothic style photo shoot in a graveyard. I’m moving away from taxidermy and have become more focused on dramatic shapes and silhouettes. I use a lot of sinamay and silks.

IMG_5678

 

How were you introduced to the art of hat making?

All by chance actually. For my final major project in my art foundation I decided to make three Victorian mourning dresses inspired by gothic horror stories by Edgar Allan Poe. I made three hats adorned with crows and ravens which I had abundance of as my grandfather was shooting about fifty a day. It was the first time I ever made a hat and I didn’t think much of it until my friend introduced me to Johnny Blueeyes in 2009 who loved the idea and asked me to make pieces for about three of his shows and various other shoots. Looking back, my first attempts were awful. Hats glue gunned to death adorned with animal body parts soaked in turps. Over the years and many Youtube videos later, I became more familiar and skilled in both millinery and taxidermy. I’ve always believed you can teach yourself anything.

 

Does England influence your work in any shape or form?

I grew up in the West Country surrounded by gamekeepers and horse riders, I personally love England and am proud to be British. I am passionate about the history and culture of this country and I really doubt I could live anywhere else.

 

Are you currently working on any exciting projects you would like us to know about?

I’m currently designing and creating costumes for a theatre production which I’m really enjoying as the characters are amazing.

 

3

 

What were your favorite hats to make to-date?

My favourite hat is probably Keith, Keith is the name of the bearded dragon that sits upon the silk hat base, O; and Nesty, nesty is a piece consisting of lacquered twisted willow containing a nest with real finches and real chicks inside the nest. It is my most bonkers but probably most beautiful piece.

 

Are you yourself a big wearer of hats, or do you prefer to make them for others?

I really don’t wear hats as I find it hard to find good hats that fit, and as I am not a hatter, I can’t make my own.

 

Lastly, how do you hope to see your millinery expand and take shape in the next year or two?

As I said before, I am moving away from taxidermy, I’m focusing more on structure, shape and form. Will I ever use taxidermy again? Of course. I just feel I need to explore new ideas and try something new. I have received enough recognition for taxidermy and now I want to see what else I can do.

 

Words: Shammara Lawrence
Images courtesy of: Morgan Hill-Murphy
 

FAULT Presents: Our Top 20 Albums of 2013 (part 2)

Part 2 of our Top 20 Favourite Albums of 2013 feature. You can find part 1 HERE. Remember, these are just our personal favourite albums of the year, in no particular order. Let us know if you think we missed anything!

10. John Legend – Love in the Future

john_legend cover - web

John Legend inside FAULT Issue 13

Remember John Legend’s first album? Well, this is absolutely nothing like that. For a start, it’s executive-produced by Kanye West and features songwriting collaborations with Rick Ross. It’s unashamedly sexy, dramatic and soulful, and even manages to make schmaltz sound cool.‘All Of Me’ is a pop ballad in the truest sense, and wouldn’t sound out of place being sung by One Direction. It’s a polarising point on the album, but Legend’s smooth soul flows throughout, and he’s incredibly good at it.

Read John’s own thoughts on the album inside FAULT Issue 13. Excerpts from our interview (and some shots from inside the issue) are available here and our behind the scenes video from our shoot can be found here

John Legend – ‘All Of Me’:

 

9. Haim – Days are Gone

Haim inside FAULT issue 15

Haim inside FAULT issue 15

2013 was undeniably Haim’s year. They’ve been universally praised by the likes of The Line of Best Fit and The Guardian as well as garnering extensive airplay on Radio 1. Instant classics like ‘Falling’ and ‘Don’t Save Me’ secured their debut’s position as one of the most anthemic and memorable records of the year.

We spoke to the sibling trio in FAULT Issue 15 while they were recording Days Are Gone, in which they told us what to expect from the album (needless to say, it didn’t disappoint): “Be prepared to have some fun! We had a lot of fun making it, so I hope it sounds fun. There are a bunch of new songs as well as songs that we released before.”

Read more from the interview, or get the full feature in FAULT Issue 15 from here

Haim – ‘Falling’:

 

8. Bass Drum of Death – Bass Drum of Death

bass drum of death

While Black Lips fans await their next album, they’ll probably be filling the gap with Bass Drum of Death. The Mississippi outfit’s honest, fuzzy garage-rock may not be particularly pioneering, but they demonstrate an excellent grasp of the genre in their second full-length offering, with infectious melodies and a purposefully under-produced sound. They also really, really like reverb. Who doesn’t?

Bass Drum Of Death – ‘Crawling After You’:

 

7. Charli XCX – True Romance

Charli XCX inside FAULT Issue 16

Charli XCX inside FAULT Issue 16

She’s had a fantastic 2013 by anyone’s standards – the past year has seen Charli XCX tour with other FAULT Featured artists Ellie Goulding and Marina and the Diamonds, as well as Paramore. She’s gone from underground sensation (her first album, ‘14’ was an acclaimed underground hit in 2008, but never commercially released) to the potential ‘next big thing’ of leftfield quirky-pop. Her vocal tone is strikingly similar to Marina Diamandis but her songwriting and grasp of melodic devices is phenomenal for her 21 years.

 In her recent interview for FAULT Issue 16, Charli revealed that she “always see[s her] music in colours. , my first record, was purple, whereas this [upcoming] album is going to be red. I’m inspired visually by red lips, blazers and things that blow up!…It’s going to be much more alive than True Romance.”

Read more excerpts and see more shots from the shoot here – or get the whole story in FAULT Issue 16, available from here.

Charli XCX – ‘You’re The One’:

 

6. SUUNS – Images du Futur

suuns Slightly freaky but wholly compelling, ‘Images du Futur’ really is something of a masterpiece, juxtaposing the heady sound of electro-indie (think Holy Ghost, Cut Copy) with what can only be described as futuristic lo-fi garage. FAULT Favourites SUUNS are carving their way through multiple genres with this impressive second album, and as a result, saw themselves nominated for the 2013 Polaris Music Prize.

Check out our interview with the Montreal four-piece in full on FAULT Online here

SUUNS – ‘Edie’s Dream’:

 

5. Jessica Sanchez – Me, You and the Music

Jessica Sanchez inside FAULT Issue 16

Jessica Sanchez inside FAULT Issue 16

The American Idol runner-up showed she’s not just a pretty face with her impressive debut album. After a stint on Glee, it would have been easy for her to continue down the squeaky-clean teen pop route, but she shakes off any preconceptions with the R’n’B-influenced ‘Me, You and the Music’, which includes a collaboration with Ne-Yo and songs co-written by Tom Petty and Sia.

Read Jessica’s own thoughts on the album inside FAULT Issue 16. Excerpts from our interview (and some images from inside the issue) are available here, along with our exclusive behind the scenes video. Get the whole story in FAULT Issue 16, available from here.

Jessica Sanchez – ‘Tonight’:

 

4.Big Sean – Hall of Fame

Our (in)famous shoot with Big Sean inside FAULT Issue 15

Our (in)famous shoot with Big Sean inside FAULT Issue 15

If you miss Notorious B.I.G as much as we do., Big Sean is there to fill the void. His unashamedly retro hip-hop, with song titles like ‘MILF’ and ‘Freaky’ borders on being a pastiche without crossing the line into ‘Trapped In The Closet’ territory. Collaborations with Li’l Wayne, Nicki Minaj and 2 Chainz make this one of the most noticeable new hip-hop releases, and Sean’s lyrics segue between the humorous and the filthy with ease.

 Big Sean told us in FAULT Issue 15 that Hall of Fame featured “the best music [he’d] ever made”. Read more from the interview, and see more shots, here – or get the full story in FAULT Issue 15 – available from here.

Big Sean – ‘Guap’:

 

3. The Black Angels – Indigo Meadow

black angels

Not only did they use some seriously Sixties cover art for ‘Indigo Meadow’, they also showed that they’re still one of the American underground rock scene’s forerunners with an album that’s as melodic, lyrically dark and introspective as you’d expect from the Texan five-piece.

Read our interview with the psych-rockers in full on FAULT Online here

The Black Angels – ‘Indigo Meadow’:

 

2. Beyonce – Beyonce

beyonce

One morning, we all awoke to a new Beyonce album. No media fanfare or indeed any clues at all preceded the release of Beyonce’s self-titled fifth album, which began as an iTunes exclusive. Following the release, she announced that she ‘sees’ music, explaining the fact that each track came with its own music video. Throughout the course of the album’s accompanying visuals, she portrays an exploited pageant queen (‘Pretty Hurts’, which is co-written by Sia), a happy theme-park goer (‘XO’) and sings an entire song about having sex with Jay Z (‘Drunk In Love’).

Beyonce – ‘Drunk In Love’:

 

1. Mac Miller – Watching Movies with the Sound Off

mac miller

Mac Miller described his second album as ‘introspective’ and he certainly lived up to that promise with ‘Watching Movies with the Sound Off’. His previous style of playful party anthems has been shelved in favour of deeper lyrical content and a clear desire to make music for no-one other than himself – although the lead single is officially ‘Somebody Do Something’ (abbreviated to S.D.S) there is no particular standout track. Taking this approach is a risk, but one that’s paid off for Miller.

 Look out for more of Mac Miller in FAULT Issue 17 – more info announced this Friday 10th January!

Mac Miller – ‘S.D.S.’:

———

Read the rest of our Top 20 FAULT Favourite Albums of 2013 feature:

Part 1

Part 2

———

Words by Thea de Gallier