London Fashion Week SS18, Backstage with Faustine Steinmetz

     

Photographed by Adele Baron

LFW February ’15, Day 2: The FAULT AW15 Daily Edit

The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Fashion Week. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram

 

House of Holland

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Henry Holland’s usual loud-and-proud designs were shown by stiffly stood models moved around the show by travellator, proving there’s always an element of fun to fashion at House of Holland.

Looking like they had just been churned out of a factory, boxy blouses and peasant-skirt dresses came in thick horizontal black and yellow ‘warning’ stripes with exposed stitching. Shaggy fur coats reaching down to the knee also sported chevron stripes in red, white and blue. Tartan, gingham and check also made a vibrant entrance on pyjama trousers, peplum hem tops and wrap-over dresses and coats with jagged hemlines.

The silhouette was generally loose and unfinished with a few pieces that pulled in tight at the waist with black PVC waistbands for contrast effect. Rather ‘proper’ neckerchiefs were a surprising accessory choice but the flat, black patent ankle boots were a great way to make the look modern and relaxed.

House of Holland will certainly brighten up your AW15 with some high voltage colour and print.

– Olivia Pinnock 

 

 

Faustine Steinmetz

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While Faustine Steinmetz are a relatively new brand, they’ve created a lot of buzz from specialising as a label from the very start.
In creating their collections using only one fabric – denim, Faustine have quickly become trendsetters within the industry by offering up something completely fresh and unique from other current British designers.  The label has managed to rise up the ranks quickly thanks to their innovative technique, approach, designs and ethos and are now becoming a go-to cult label for UK fashion editors, myself included.

Treating the everyday denim garment with their special handmade techniques, this season took a step further towards defining the ‘Faustine Steinmetz’ look. Featuring hand painting onto fabric, frayed edges, delicate details and oversized shapes, the aesthetic is strong yet understated. The models posed casually, styled with sleek pared-back hair and clean skin to reinforce the overall beautiful simplicity of the brand.

Faustine focuses on sustainability and responsible sourcing, creating one of a kind pieces to be loved and worn forever versus current fast, seasonal and adrenalin-induced fashion. Perhaps their popularity reflects the change that fashion is desperately seeking, is it time for more calm, socially responsible fashion labels? Only time will tell but my feeling is a resounding yes.

-Rachel Holland

 

 J.W Anderson

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J.W Anderson’s show marked a real departure for the designer, from a restrained, 70s-infused, quasi-androgynous aesthetic, to a collection that spoke of 80s luxe, with all its maximalist merging of colour, print and textile. Anderson’s silhouettes, so often used to elongate limbs and manipulate the body in  a way that speakers more of abstract shape, instead clung to hips and waists, with a feminine silhouette, cinched in jewel-coloured velvet and paired with knee-high boots. This is not to say that Anderson has lost his quirky cool by any means; if anything, this was one of his strongest collections yet, with a complex smorgasbord of prints and textiles layered in a way that spoke to his curatorial sensibilities. His attention to detail and colour theory is well-established, and it was interesting to watch it play out on a more complex, grander scale than usual.

Will Ballentyne-Reid

 

Emilia Wickstead

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Cocoon shaped sleeves and a pinched waist were on the menu for Emilia Wickstead’s Autumn/Winter 15 collection. A colour palette, which began with nude and pastel blue tones, decorated the midi length dresses and boucle trousers that created nostalgia of a more retro era. Wickstead moved away from the a-line shapes of last season and instead created pretty drapes and full peplums that exuded the natural style that she is known for.

Mid-way through, the show took an adventurous turn with burnt orange check covering dresses in all lengths and a pair of culottes that we think will be on everyone’s Autumn/Winter 15 wish-list. The stand out piece of the collection was, by far, the interjection of black PVC, with a full length dress that added confidence and attitude making the collection stand out amongst the rest this season.

Emilia Wickstead introduced elegance and glamour to the London Shows for Autumn/Winter 15 with a collection was one of our favourites from the designer. With styles that took a new and daring direction, we already cannot wait for the Spring/Summer collection.

Jael Fowakes 

 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Vic Lentaigne

Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery offered one crazy show at London Fashion Week! The collective created a Betsey Johnson-like world where models wore tousled black wigs, mesh stockings and shiny socks in strappy heels. Very long scarves accessorized most of the looks while collar pins bejeweled necklines. Blazers, sweaters, dresses and turtlenecks were all part of the knitwear dominated collection in shades of pink, black and orange. A fabric similar to latex hugged the body in a very form fitting way and gave a certain edge to the runway show, along with accents of fur and pink handwriting.

Elisabeth Labelle

 

Julien Macdonald

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Julien Macdonald redefined the meaning of goth with this gloomy collection. Hair slicked back, dark berry lips, choker necklaces, long gloves and knee-high socks created an austere look for fall. Black was obviously predominant, but other colors – such as purple, green, blue and silver – underlined details throughout the collection. Thin belts accentuated the waist of many dresses whereas zippers at the center of a piece would reveal another layer underneath. Other gothic elements included mesh, lace and embroidery mimicking Victorian crinolines.

Elisabeth Labelle

 

Holly Fulton

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Shot exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

 

Holly Fulton‘s show was a send-up of retro ideals- Vogue spreads from the late 60s and 70s with fringed models in swirling prints and synthetic materials, mixed with a Valley of the Dolls vibe; lace and pastel shades, prim collars and scalloped hemlines just above the knee. When it was strong (which was for the majority of the show), the effect was blissfully eccentric- a Wes Anderson-directed Stepford Wives, intelligent, beautiful and intricately complex. When the embellishments, appliqué and other details were removed, the shapes and colours often became overly bland, losing their modernity and charm. But overall, this was a beautifully rendered collection with a strong undercurrent in femininity, unexpected tailoring, and stunningly subtle Surrealist prints.

Will Ballentyne-Reid

 

Lucas Nascimento

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The AW15 collection of Brazilian-born Lucas Nascimento seemed to be inspired by a warmer destination far from his London home. Bold prints of exotic flowers and dresses with thin straps exuded warmth and sunshine. Knitwear being his specialty, Nascimento created once again finely crafted knits taking the shape of sweaters, dresses and even jumpsuits. V-necks with contrasting colors became the norm as the show went on, varying from purple to black, olive green, orange and blue. Nascimento also added texture to his collection by using a funky material enhanced with rows of lurex threads or placing a layer of mesh upon a colorful fabric.

Elisabeth Labelle

 

Markus Lupfer

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Vic Lentaigne

 

The theme for Markus Lupfer’s AW15 collection is ‘a walk in a secret garden’ which took us a while to clock on to because we were momentarily distracted by the adorable white rabbits hanging in glass bowls as we entered the presentation.

All became clear as models, posing between spindly branches, wild flowers and wooden swings, showed off sporty dresses with muted, Hawaiian-style flower prints and laser-cut floral designs in khaki that looked like an army camouflage net. Accessorised with cosy beanie hats, glittery trainers and daisy-shapes sunglasses from the Markus Lupfer for Linda Farrow line.

Bomber jackets, parker coats and roll neck jumpers made for practical outerwear for keeping warm while mirrored embellishments on sweaters added a sprinkling of magic to further the ideas of enchanted forests and fairytale woodlands. A holographic jacquard fabric also features gnomes, fawns and squirrels entwined in the design.

We can certainly get on board with a collection that’s comfortable and looks cool… and one where we get to stroke rabbits at the show.

– Olivia Pinnock 

 

Gareth Pugh

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Gareth Pugh presented a theatrical AW15 collection seemingly inspired by the Elizabethan era. Modern metallic ruffs, vests structured like armors and ample skirts hitting the ground channeled this austere look. If the army of models wore chains and leather knee-high boots, the red cross painted on their face became the quintessential element to this fashion Inquisition.

Elisabeth Labelle

 

 

FAULT Magazine Backstage @ Faustine Steinmetz AW15

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Vic Lentaigne

LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (1) SS15

 

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

 

J. JS Lee

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

Opening London Fashion Week, Korean designer JJS Lee gave us the modern woman’s office wardrobe for SS15 with her signature architectural minimalism. Exaggerated, peaked cuffs, high-low hemlines and stiff pleats meant serious business while sickly sweet buttercream orange and green colours avoided it becoming overly masculine.

Her first foray into prints were created from pressed flowers which were scanned and manipulated to make scattered, abstract petal shapes in deep blue that will appeal to easy-going style lovers.

The real stars of the show though were the bags. Square grab bags with acrylic picture frames crossing over the leather to create the handle were utterly desirable and yet understated. Perfectly complementing the strong lines of the collection, they gave the outfits impact and a futuristic attitude.

JJS Lee always manages to make androgynous look empowering without being intimidating or overtly sexy and SS15 promises more of the same to fill our wardrobes with wear-and-go pieces that still get noticed.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Faustine Steinmetz
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The Faustine Steinmetz show, presented at the ICA, was a beautifully fragile collection; pale and ethereal shades of blue, mint, lilac and heather purple, and fabrics treated with a sumptuous subtlety. Fringing, texture and fraying thread meshed together to convey a frail and tragic-feminine aesthetic- Ophelia drowning in the water covered in old flowers and moss.
Yet there was also a clarity and contemporary twist to the collection; with trouser suits, masculine-tailoring and references to the Nineties revival that has now lasted so long with white tank tops, wet hair and a sensual androgyny. Denim was incorporated with incredible skill, contributing to the modernity of the show yet appearing almost as velvet in its shimmer and fringing.
There was an incredible biomorphic quality to the pieces presented, from the organic textures to the fragile suspension of the fringing and the natural roughness of the frayed denim. Faustine used this collection to showcase her promise as a designer and she came through, allowing us enough to piece together an aesthetic and be excited for her future.

-Will Ballantyne-Reid

 

Felder and Felder

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Nature’s the thing when it comes to this collection; a mix of popping prints and blank white canvases. Felder and Felder’s latest collection is aimed at the flourishing young woman without a care. Think holiday wear, Rivera holidays and beach cruises. Loose but structured garments make up this collection which include crop tops, short dresses and funky summer coats.

The first set of looks all feature tie dye like printing or metallic bottoms. The tie dye prints are reminiscent of leopard or snakeskin. Free flowing dresses are also thrown into the mix, some even merge different fabrics together: sheer white paneling connects with vibrantly decorated material. Natural shapes and patterns embrace flowing fabrics and long legs.

The light must always give way to dark shades, leather jackets, textured co-ords and elegant netting present themselves on the runway. Some elements scream cowboy; such as fringing on jackets, leather skirts and bold leather boots.

Glittering embellishments and garments soon take center stage. Shimmering dresses and skirts hug hips. Overall the collection mixes earthy tones such as brown, red, green and yellow with fun and comfy garms. The bohemian like freshness of this assortment of garments truly captures the true spirit of young summer.

Deborah Ajia

 

Daks

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

This dream like collection uses pale and sheer tones to create an almost ethereal look on the female form. Intermixed with more casual and work wear based looks, some of the collection outshines these plain pieces. These very looks are quite contemporary, adult, smart and prim, but this elaborate and appealing use of organza and other sheer fabrics create a near futuristic look. Pussybow shirts that create an umbrella of material over the wearer’s crown. Leather and other shiny fabrics also arise throughout the show.

Blues, whites, purples and grays make up the sublime palette, most of the hues used are quite saturated and almost flow from one garment to the next like an alternate colour wheel.

Asymmetric tops, shirts, tailored trousers and midi dresses also featured in this collection. There is a delicious mac in a pearlescent white with a curved cape piece, which is definitely the showstopper of this show.

Deborah Ajia

 

 

Eudon Choi 

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Prairie dresses and ditsy Laura Ashley-style prints gave Eudon Choi’s SS15 show a girlish, country feel. Cuffed trousers, frilled hems and billowing trench coats added to this vibe but true to the designer’s more structured tendencies, deep-V suit jackets and cigarette trousers toughened up the looks.

Some pieces mixed the pastel florals with stark contrast black features such as the backs of trousers or sleeves for something that drew a little more intrigue. Pinafore straps and buttoned up backs were also nice touches of detail.

Closing the show, oversized plain white and black shirt dresses down to the ankle gave the ‘pyjama style’ trend a new twist and with a little more styling could probably avoid making someone look like they were on day release from the asylum.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

 

Fyodor Golan 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

Fashion and tech have always had their little parities. Not necessarily in the sense that clothes are one day going to be made of nuts and bolts, but then again, the Fyodor Golan brand might change that. Bringing back the heavy tech laden fascinations of the 90s in the form of vibrant neons and prints that you wouldn’t necessarily see in a collection (red poppies, perhaps; American football players adorned in orange uniforms in a scrum, perhaps not), the duo atFyodor Golan were certainly willing to show a new version of the Fyodor Golangirl, and, briefly, the boy, thanks to those his n hers looks. With kitschy-neo-rave pieces that really stood out – think metallic co-ords for the guys and gals, long strands of fabric skewing to the side in a fish tail effect adorned with neon strips of colour, and the various shimmering printed stripes – it was apt that the huge inverted pyramid behind the models was projecting a distorted, glitched live stream, which reflected the colour blocking reminiscent of those blocked standby screens on televisions in horror films; all of these little techno features made the awkward yet still intriguing silhouettes that shot away from the body as if repelled by some odd magnetic force even more pleasing. However, that’s not to say there is wearability – after all, this is a ready-to-wear collection. Maybe it’s time to take out the glow sticks – anyone for a rave?

-Colin Dawidziuk

 

Christopher Raeburn

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

The site of a plane crash in the jungle may not seem like it translates well as inspiration for a new fashion collection but Christopher Raeburn spun out another edgy and interesting show using exactly that..

Despite the repetition of styles – bomber jackets, loose Bermuda shorts, shirt dresses with sheer hems, structural parker coats and backpacks – each look had its own distinct personality.

The entangled ladder strips, hinting at ropes and vines, in bright khaki and black gave curves and texture to the sporty collection. Prints of maps and faded jungle leaves were muted to fit in with the military colour scheme of stone, black, and khaki but drew you in to observe them further. Square heat transfers that were jumbled on dresses and tops referenced plane control boards to complete the story.

A highly narrative set, preluded by overhead aeroplane noises, complemented Raeburn’s SS15 menswear collection presented this June to complete the story with a twist on womenswear that feels incredibly in touch with the current zeitgeist.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

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