FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Burberry AW17

This season was a departure on many levels for Chief Creative Director Christopher Bailey, with what looked like his most conceptual collection so far at Burberry.

Digging deeper into who Bailey is as a designer – his influences, points of view and creative expression – made for an intensely personal collection that was infused with his love for Yorkshire artist and sculptor Henry Moore. Speaking as a fellow Northerner, seeing Moore’s sculptures on the catwalk gave me a nostalgia for visiting the Yorkshire Sculpture Park as a child, the same memory that Bailey fondly recalls of while growing up.

As a whole, the colour palette was a deviation from Bailey’s love of colour with a muted palette of black, white, grey and faded blues (taking inspiration even from the artist’s own workwear wardrobe). Bailey used Moore’s un-proportional aesthetic to change the shape of the body with a lot of asymmetric and deconstructed pieces. There were curved shoulders on tweed jackets, round exaggerated sleeves and military jackets with prominent hard, angular shoulders.

Discovering and interjecting his own personality through the lens of Burberry’s 161-year history, Bailey sent a down the runway a series of sculptural capes in what was a stunning finale. Remaking Burberry’s most historic piece in plastic, crystals, lace, feather and pearls. An unforgettable and defining collection for Bailey in what marks his second See Now, Buy Now collection.

Words: Heather Ibberson

Fault Magazine Reviews Belstaff LCM SS17 Presentation

 

Taking inspiration from Bruce Brown’s Motorcycle classic, Belstaff decided to bring the dirt track to London with a film-set homage to On Any Sunday, making it a weekend to remember. Heavily influenced by the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen, the models lazed back on the vintage cars and motor cycles dressed in hand-waxed leather clad and aviator shades. The cast had a carefree attitude exuding off of their rugged exterior – you could almost smell the motor oil radiating off of them. Integral to this collection was the personalisation of the leather jackets and the references to the sun-bleached palette of the film. Recognisable personas from the track were replicated in this collection: Romero with a diamond hand-waxed leather application and Mashburn’s black and yellow colour schemes. These pieces celebrated the pioneering era of 1970s racers as Frederik Dyhr, Belstaff VP Men’s Design explains, “[It] was a defining time for Belstaff because leather manufacturers on both sides of the Atlantic were really embracing this idea of personalising leatherwear and so began an era of strong colour direction”.

 

Rough-edged, lived-in looks, rich tobacco tonals and black burnished finishes set the tone for most outfits. Paying tribute to racing as a coveted sport, we saw relaxed open necklines – an ode to the racing shirts of the 1970s. As a nice surprise Belstaff showed us five looks from the Women’s SS17 pre collection, again taking carefree biker-goddess attitudes as well as hand-waxed suede and lightweight straight-leg denim. The show carried on outside thrilling the public with Twelve-time Trial World Champion Dougie Lampkin MBE performing crazy bike stunts a stones throw away from Queen Liz’s 90thbirthday luncheon. A rather noisy, but lovely birthday surprise, we think!

Words: Lizzie Griffin

FAULT Focus: Discussing design with Emerging Talent, Victoria Scandale

 

International designer Victoria Scandale first debuted her brand at Milan Fashion Week but is showing no signs of slowing down. Back with their SS16 collection, Scandale has not shied away from vibrant colours and bold prints this collection but she has still managed to maintain the luxurious and high-end theme of the brand. High-quality craftsmanship is at the forefront of the collection and it shines through in all the VC pieces.

We caught up with the designer to talk about her collect, her ideas for the future and find out what it means to be a Victoria Scandale woman.

 

You’ve been designing clothing pretty much all your life. Can you remember what sparked your original interest?

It started from drawing outfits at a very young age…I was only drawing houses until my teacher told me maybe I should  try something else. So I tried drawing people in different coloured outfits. I couldn’t stop. A few years later my grandmother taught me how to make all this come into life with a sewing machine.

We’ve read you initially chose the somewhat stable path when you graduated from with a degree in economics. Looking back, are you thankful that you did, having a clear understanding of economics is one of the skills some fashion designers lack, yet something any good business person needs?

Yes, definitely. Although it is not my passion understanding this side of the fashion business is very important and I am grateful and happy I had a chance to get an education exactly this way.

 

When was the deciding moment you chose to make a career out of it?

Once I realised that the world belongs to dreamers. The best you can do in life is turn your passion into your dream job. Additionally, due to my numerous travels, I was always meeting a lot of inspiring people; their support helped me and eased the whole process. The fashion industry is highly competitive, it’s not easy. So it truly has to be your passion should you decide to make it your job.

 

 

Can you tell us some unique features about the SS16 collection?

It’s vibrant, volumetric and aims to find the fun around. I love to work with new cuts and play with volume in details: it’s somewhat magical. Cottons, silks and jacquards are shown in a pretty unusual way, but still very elegant. From daytime to cocktail party at night, from sneakers to high heels, women wearing pieces from the SS16 collection won’t be seen as boring or not elegant enough, that’s for sure !

 

Your designs and chosen prints are very bold, bright and colourful (perfect for spring/summer), yet they aren’t outlandish. Was it hard to find a way to use such colours and prints without taking it too far?

It’s easy and hard at the same time when it comes to fashion. I love prints and colours. But I try to find a limit, testing and thinking about the women who will wear the clothes I design. Who ? Where to ? Then it becomes much more understandable. And easier.

 

You’ve done a lot of travelling; what country would you say inspired you most when it came to designing?

Inspiration is everywhere. France has always been my first inspiration, it is the perfect source of elegance, the French lifestyle is unique and recognised everywhere. Recently I discovered South Korea. Everything about this country is awesome: the technology and high level of innovations combined with the respect of traditions, skyscrapers located nearby the old buildings of ancient dynasties…It’s perfect harmony together. And the way South Korean women dress is a feast for the eyes, like an endless fashion week.

What do you feel are the strongest pieces of the SS16 collection?

The tectonic orange dress is a “must have” that goes with every type of shoes. The orange culottes are nice too as they can be worn with a simple white t-shirt for an effortlessly chic look.

 

What do your designs reflect about yourself, are you a “Victoria Scandale woman”?

I am a dreamer, a free soul, it shows through my designs. I’ve experienced a lot in my life, I’ve gone from this super well-educated girl to hard rock lover and back again, I’ve travelled from one country to another and more… I found myself, I’m confident and I love to explore. I can say that I know what life tastes like. This is what the Victoria Scandale is about, strong and elegant but adorable and playful.

 

What are you plans to expand the line?

I plan on adding a shoe line in the nearest future.

 

What is your FAULT?

Overthinking. Fortunately, it’s a fault I have no problem living with 🙂

The Fashion Debates: A Night of Discussion In Hopes Of Finally Making Fashion Fair

 

Oh the fashion industry! The glamour, the clothing and the wondrous personalities. However, like any industry, pull back the veil and what you find might not always be as positive as you’d previously expected. Enter, ‘The Fashion Debates‘. Launched by fashion journalist Olivia Pinnock, the newly launched event looks to discuss the unfair treatment and unethical practices currently employed within the industry. This isn’t an event to just recycle old argument points but instead hopefully discover a sustainable solution to all the troubles plaguing the industry.

Topics including sweatshop labour, racism, body image and feminism, will be discussed during the events and as a publication with fashion at its core, we are thoroughly looking forward to the each event. Despite our own efforts to feature a diverse lineup in every issue and implementing a ban on fur clothing, there is much more still to be done inside FAULT and throughout the industry.

The series will include a variety of speakers from within the fashion industry, with Carry Somers, Founder of Fashion Revolution, Clare Lissaman, Director of Ethical Fashion Forum and Mysource, and Stella Heng, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Sports Philosophy, announced to speak at the first event.

The debut Fashion Debate will be focussing on the challenges of sweatshop labour and take place on 19th May at 7pm at The Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design. Tickets are £10.

 

To find out more and to purchase tickets, head over to www.thefashiondebates.com

 

WINTER INDULGMENT AT CONSEPT

CONSEPT

‘ConSept’, a new and one of a kind concept store on the King’s Road in London invited FAULT to it’s annual winter party, along with a host of other Fashion VIP’s.

Situated in the old post office just opposite the landmark Chelsea Town Hall, Consept offers lovers of luxury an exclusive shopping experience. Stocking only unusual and difficult to source pieces, such as Hermès bags, 24kt gold-dipped Chandeliers and  limited edition fashion and furnishings, the store has made it onto the elite’s fashion map for it’s eclectic mix.

With an array of sought after, celebrity endorsed, ready-to-wear brands that are only stocked at ConSept in the UK, a visit here is essential for life’s indulging in life’s luxuries, gold crown anyone?

 

 

 

‘Tinder’ – FAULT Online Exclusive Editorial by Simian Coates

 

Necklace: Zorya Ear jewellery: Antipearle

Necklace: Zorya
Ear jewellery: Antipearle

Swimsuit: Tereza Vu. Leather cape: Layko. Shoes: Casadei. Sunglasses:  Italia Independent. Ring: Antipearle.

Swimsuit: Tereza Vu. Leather cape: Layko. Shoes: Casadei. Sunglasses:
Italia Independent. Ring: Antipearle.

Hooded cape: Jiri Kalfar Swimsuit: Tereza Vu Necklace: Antipearle

Hooded cape: Jiri Kalfar
Swimsuit: Tereza Vu Necklace: Antipearle

Swimsuit: Žaneta Malénková.  Shoes: Michael Kors. Necklace & Bracelet: Zorya.  Sunglasses: Italia Independent.

Swimsuit: Žaneta Malénková.
Shoes: Michael Kors. Necklace & Bracelet: Zorya.
Sunglasses: Italia Independent.

Swimsuit: Agent Provocateur Bracelet: Zorya. Cap, stylists own.

Swimsuit: Agent Provocateur
Bracelet: Zorya. Cap, stylists own.

 

Photography: Simian Coates
Stylist: Veronika Metz
Hair & Make Up: Marta Korousová
Model: Maja Hriníková @ 2W Scout

FAULT MAGAZINE BACKSTAGE AT LFW – TOGA SS16

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Credit: Vic Lentaigne

FAULT MAGAZINE BACKSTAGE AT LFW – PALMER HARDING SS16

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Credit: Nigel Pacquette