Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years, A Retrospective

The House at the End of the World, 2005 By David LaChapelle Studio Viktor&Rolf, Bedtime Story, ready-to-wear collection, AW 2005

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fashion royalty Viktor&Rolf, are celebrating a 25 year retrospective at the Kunsthal gallery in Rotterdam, Holland. From May through to 30 September 2018, fans of the designers can get an up close and personal viewpoint of some of their most famous and innovative pieces. From the theatrical Van Gogh Girls of 2015, the iconic 2010 Chainsaw Massacre collection, with gaping, gravity-defying holes in each piece, to the overtly padded 2005 Bedtime Story collection, consistently taking the designer’s concept of ‘Wearable art’ to the highest levels of art and dramatic haute couture.

Russian Doll, haute couture collection, AW 1999

 

Canadian curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot has worked directly in collaboration with the Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren,  to create a thoroughly intriguing exploration into the various areas of inspiration in the designers’ World. Enabling the general public to view in accurate detail, the construction of each iconic runway couture garment and a glimpse into the genius psyche of the Viktor & Rolf partnership.

 

Van Gogh Girls, haute couture collection, SS 2015

 

In their own words: “We often play with the idea of two people being one, or both of us being of one mind, and we play with our image to express that.” This theme is visible throughout the retrospective, showcasing the power of two creative minds in creating serious art-based fashion and then fabricating these mind-bending concepts into reality. These show-stopping and notable couture pieces by the design duo are now all available for scrutiny at the Kunsthal, a homecoming for the Dutch designers.

 

Viktor&Rolf by Anton Corbijn Amsterdam, 2018

 

Over 60 haute couture pieces from the designers’ archives have been carefully selected by Loriot for the Kunsthal retrospective, including stage costumes created for ballet and operas, alongside special pieces, such as the costume created for Madonna’s 2016 Miami Art Basel fundraising concert. New works from the latest collections, ‘Boulevard of Broken Dreams’ and ‘Action Dolls’ are also displayed for the first time within the retrospective.

Solidifying Viktor&Rolf’s 25 year journey to date within their home country of Holland, the retrospective features their strongest collections, marking a chapter of exceptional high couture work and achievement so rarely achieved by designers within fashion. The fact that the duo have also managed to remain as unpredictable, ground-breaking and art-driven within that timeframe, well, we cannot wait to witness the next 25 years of their creative partnership.

 

Getting There

Rotterdam or Amsterdam airport is only a short (less than an hour) flight from London. We flew from Heathrow to Amsterdam via British Airways and the flight only lasted a mere 45 minutes. A train shuttle will then quickly transport you across to Rotterdam with the metro system being extremely easy to navigate on arrival.

 

Accommodation

The 5 star Design hotel, Mainport is offering a Viktor & Rolf Hotel package for visitors of the Kunsthal. Upgrade your visit to the exhibition by booking the V&R hotel package, which includes a City XL room, entrance to the Kunsthal ‘Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years’, a signed catalogue of Viktor&Rolf, a poster, the champagne breakfast buffet on the relaxing riverside terrace, cocktail bar, rooftop swimming pool, gym & sauna. Mainport is ideally located at the shores of the Maas in the city centre and it’s then only a short walk or metro journey into the town centre.

Book here: www.mainporthotel.com/en/viktorrolf
The offer is 144.50eu per night until the 30th September.

 

Places to Eat

Heroine Restaurant

Unique 70’s inspired decor combined with cosy fine dining.
Address: Kipstraat 12, 3011 RT Rotterdam, Netherlands
Phone: +31 10 310 0870

Supermercado

A unique concept restaurant & bar situated in a disused Swimming pool,  featuring Mexican & Latin-American cuisine. After the meal the rooftop turns into a dance party for a fun dining experience.
Address: Schiedamse Vest 91A, 3012 BG Rotterdam, Netherlands
Phone: +31 10 404 8070

Ayla

Mediterranean food suitable for lunch, brunch, bites, dinner or drinks.
Interesting food combinations & killer cocktails.
Address: Kruisplein 153, 3014 DD Rotterdam, Netherlands
Phone: +31 10 254 0005

FAULT Magazine Brand Focus: Harcourt london

 

With London Fashion Week now behind us, here at FAULT we’re selecting this year’s best gift ideas to provide for a very fashionable Christmas season. Today we’re turning our attention to the up-ad-coming coming brand Harcourt London and their plan to bring luxury and classic design to the masses with their range of affordable watches.

The brainchild of a racing driver, his sports agent/half-brother and a city broker, we very nearly dismissed Harcourt as just a side-project by untrained professionals trying to enter an already saturated market. But, after lifting the lid and investigating further into the brand, you’ll see as we did, that Harcourt is far more than meets the eye…

The origin of the name “Harcourt” tells the tragic but commendable story of the brand’s inception. Named after Anthony Harcourt the late father of co-founder Jack Clarke, the brand is their way of ensuring the Harcourt name lives on where Antony could not. Describing the brand as a “germ of an idea”, Jack did indeed see it through to release and as they say, the rest is history.  Despite the past tragedy planting the seeds for Harcourt to grow, the young  team is also looking to the future with a pledge to donate a portion of their profits to a cancer charity.

The Harcourt debut series consist of seven minimal unisex designs all bearing the brand’s signature “H” on the 12-hour marker with options for both 36mm and 40mm available. For our hands-on review, we’re looking at the most noir (and therefore most FAULT) design entitled The Royal T model. Despite what at first seemed like a rather cringe title, alike to everything “Harcourt”, we did a little digging and found the reasoning behind this. Much like everything that makes up the Harcourt brand, there is a historic value to the choice of name with Royal T being named after the Clarke family house dating back to 1800.

It’s commendable to see a young brand taking the time to consider every creative choice they make. The more we investigated the more we found that every aspect from the brand name to the name of the models and brand ethos has been very carefully thought over; every step Harcourt take is a considered one and this is the key in the early stages of ANY business so it’s great to see that they’ve discovered this so early.

Each watch comes in a giant crypt of a case which is an odd choice for a brand priding itself on their ability to be minimal but creative. In our opinion, the case doesn’t do a lot for the product inside and while a statement, it loses points on presentation because of it.

We’re happy to report that the watch inside is a thing of beauty. Watches aren’t the easiest product to design, many have failed to tread the thin line between minimal and boring, but the Royal T is both minimal but a exceptional piece to add to the collection. I found the watch made for an easy pairing with many of my London Fashion Week looks, from shows to industry meeting/dinners, the Harcourt watch sat well with my outfits of choice. The watch paired well with a block black and white dinner jacket/shirt combo and for spring and summer, we’d suggest pairing ‘The Taylor’ model from the same range with linens, pastels, and beiges for the perfect spring look.

The Royal T build quality is solid and the perfect example of affordable luxury done right. Far too often we have found that many of the products trying to make the luxury affordable have only succeeded in building a cheaper looking product but Harcourt have nailed it and eEvery wardrobe needs a minimal and classic timepiece like this. Time and time again we’ve seen products with similar designs and purpose which either disregard the quality and look plastic or overshoot on pricing without adding any visible advantages.

If you’re looking for a watch for all occasions which bears a price tag which will reflect both the necessity and need, FAULT highly recommends the range offered by Harcourt. With a strong start and a commendable brand message, process, and product, we see big things to come in the future for Harcourt. The Royal T is definitely one for the Christmas list…  

Harcourt on the web

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FAULT Magazine @ NYFW PAFF presentation

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The Polish American Fashion Foundation hosted their first-ever NYFW show at the New Museum on Bowery, featuring three designers in an engaging display of Polish design talent. Perfectly tailored music, opened up the room with a known favorite, Bitter Sweet Symphony by The Verve, and later wrapped us in arms with live mini instrumental orchestra. Custom made perfumes left mesmerizing lingering scents and a heartfelt opening by Aleksandra Borowczak (PAFF founder) set the tone for a well-deserved milestone in Polish fashion history!

Viola Spiechowicz opened the show with voluminous beige jackets, bell sleeves picture stamping clips of China with white linen dresses, bathing suits, and tunics. It was an effortless dance played well with the classical music notes leading each look. Cinched waists delicately floating and slim lines gave structure to the soft palette of whites, beiges, and light blue. Whimsical and dreamy, the collection echoed a sense of freedom for women as they moved from moment to moment, country to sea and through time stamped eras, particularly that of Gidget with 1950s swimwear and sophisticated 1900s air of the Gibson girl!

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Mia, comprised of mother and daughter Anna and Iwona Marganski, was sexy and architectural. Sculptural black separates with hints of white were accented with leather detailing, cuffs, and high, striking collars. The collection lined a futuristic setting engaging the mind to enter into a moment of what could be!

The highlight of the evening was an exciting presentation by Paprocki and Brzozowski, a design duo working together since 2000. Marcin and Mariusz have already achieved recognition in their native country, and will finally be known internationally. The designers showed a Polish Renaissance-inspired collection of elegant silhouettes and luxurious textiles. Their refined color scheme included rose-colored brocade, luxurious white chiffon, and sparkling black beading,interspersed with a few surprising moments of the most brilliant green silk!

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The overall point of view, both individually and collectively, was clear and strong. These designers are knowledgeable, passionate, and dedicated to their craft. New York is lucky to be welcoming these Polish designers into the dialogue of contemporary fashion.

Words: Lydia Hope Samson

Alexander McQueen fever is officially in the air.

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‘Inferno: Alexander McQueen’ by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey

Five years after his untimely death, London is celebrating this genius London talent with two major exhibitions (‘Savage Beauty’ at the V & A and Nick Waplington’s ‘Woking Progress’ at the Tate Britain), alongside the stunning picture book ‘Inferno’ by Kent Baker and words by Melanie Rickey.

Focussing on one show- the breakout AW 1996 ‘Dante’, described as groundbreaking couture meets club culture, which took place at a Crypt in the midst of Jack the Ripper’s killing ground on a freezing March evening, in East London.

The venue in itself set the scene for mystery and intrigue, and the off the beaten track show was bound to be controversial with the fashpack who were keen to see what was next from the inventive young designer.

Coffee table book ‘Inferno’ is an insider’s view of that night. It showcases exclusive, intimate behind the scenes photographs, as viewed from the lens of fashion photographer Kent Baker; After meeting Lee through mutual friends, he casually asked if he could take document the evening, not imagining he would say yes!

The infamous show, set in the apparently haunted venue of Christ Church in Spitalfields, complete with skeleton on the front row, has never been re-created, but you can now see for yourself the buzz and excitement of the show preparation, unseen portraits, model shots, hissy fits and the master at work.

With words by fashion journalist Melanie Rickey, Lee’s peers, his ex, the creative teams, and models that walked for him, all tell their version of what it was like to know and work with the legend on the show. High energy, raw, dramatic, are all phrases that crop up time and time again, alongside tales of the freaky vibe, dark spirits and electricity, which make the anecdotes worth their weight in gold.

Known for always pushing the boundaries in fashion and production, this show was bound to be remembered- as a performance as well as the designs. With Lee once stating “You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for”

This is a book for everyone that agrees with that, and can appreciate couture, and a dark, thoughtful visionary. Long live that sentiment. Even now you’re gone.

By Sara Darling

Inferno: Alexander McQueen by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey is published by Laurence King Publishing in March, available from www.laurenceking.com

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Fault Reviews: Yves Saint Laurent

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Tournage YSL

Set against the beautiful backdrop of Paris in 1957, the film tells the heady story of Yves Saint Laurent, played by Pierre Niney, and his lover Pierre Bergé, played by Guillaume Gallienne. Together as both business partners, soul-mates and eventually Pierre taking the role of carer to the troubled and reckless Yves, the film delves into the personal and creative life of the young designer.

The imagery is as stunning as you can imagine, featuring the original YSL garden in Marrakech, Morocco and various evocative scenes across Paris.  Original couture pieces from the YSL archives feature throughout the film, with a cast decked-out in a film wardrobe to die for. The full effect of the movie, creates a rich and idealistic story of the making of an internationally acclaimed fashion brand and how a designers relationship with their models, staff, friends and the people surrounding him / her can make or break a career.

Yves Saint Laurent, is portrayed as a creative genius, a tortured artist and a revolutionary designer, with Pierre as the rock that held the entire show (and Yves life) together season after season. Although this story sometimes glosses over some of Yves’ life and fails to explore what happens after he and Pierre separated, it’s worth seeing for the beautiful scenery, the costumes, and a deeper understanding into one of the greatest designers of our time.

Directed by Jalil Lespert

With Pierre Niney de La Comédie-Française, Guillaume Gallienne de la Comédie-Française, Charlotte Le Bon, Laura Smet and Marie de Villepin

YVES SAINT LAURENT is released in cinemas across the UK on 21st March 2014

 

 

 

 

First Look, LFW Day 3: Bernard Chandran AW14

FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on TwitterFacebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard for FAULT Magazine
@jeanlucbrouard

All Images are subject to  copyright

NYFW AW14 Roundup – Part 3 (Prabal Gurang, Rag & Bone & more)

With NYFW in full swing, we’ve edited and rounded up FAULT‘s fashion shows of note from the NYFW Fall/Winter (or AW ’14 to us) ’14 collections. Pay attention as we give you the lowdown:

Prabal Gurang:

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As one of the most standout collections of NFW this season, Prabal Gurang’s inspiration drew deeply on the visual elements of his homeland, Nepal. The models walked zen-like past huge gongs with flushed ‘straight from the himalayan mountains’ cheeks and deep centre partings inspired by the local Nepalese women. Featuring beautiful draping, complex layering, twisted seams and ‘wrapped’ fabric details in rich hues of red and orange in the same shades of Tibetan monk robes, the collection was full of meaning and depth. Some black, grey and unexpected prints were thrown into the mix also, to create a striking  multi-faceted set of looks. Although Gurang is usually known for his statement dresses, it was actually the knits that got us the most excited, I wonder if the monks realise what trendsetters they are? We can’t wait to see what he creates next.

 

Rag & Bone:

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It’s always exciting to see the Rag & Bone show and to see what they’ve been motivated by season by season. This time there was a ‘back to basics’ feel, which translated itself in rough textures, plaid, silky shell-suit style tops, pinstripe, paint splatters and texturized rough-looking fabric. This was a uniform of sorts, but not all that easily defined, more a contrasting selection of various ‘working’ uniforms that needed further investigation to be understood. It was an intriguing display using subdued ‘muddy’ colours, greys, navy, khaki, grey, black and brown off-shot with vivid orange, that to me, references a fast food restaurant. I’m not sure if I’ll be rushing to the shops to buy this for myself, but as with all collections that throw you a little off-balance, they usually end up being a big commercial hit. It really feels that this season, there are designers striving to ‘keep it more real’ or at the very least to be inspired by real life, gritty scenarios.

 

Suno:

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This was an unexpected hit for us, but Suno’s AW14 collection left us wanting more. Emerging as a truly inspiring brand, this latest collection was inspired by some found photographs of a Roma gypsy camp just outside of Bucharest. We see the Soma girl transform from the early 90’s through to 2006 in a selection of outfits that echo the passing of that time. From raw and undone styles to looks featuring rich embroidery, metallics and clashing pattern, with some loose referencing to tailoring. The collection managed to remain pulled together with the strong boots featuring a strip of metal. A clever idea to to keep each look consistent and to anchor the mix of looks firmly in the present.

 

Thakoon:

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Just when we thought we had AW sussed out, Thakoon threw this eclectic collection into the mix. Bright florals, unusual layering, shrunken poncho’s, then layers of knitwear plus capes mixed in with tailoring. This colourful collection commanded attention with it’s vivid colour palette and experimental layering. Favorite pieces were a slouchy nude-toned suit, a clashy floral bomber jacket and the blue polka dot suit worn beneath a coat-length bomber jacket. Genius.

Keep updated here for more of our NYFW Fall collection updates from the Editors at FAULT Magazine.

Stay updated during LFW via twitter @FAULT Magazine @RachelvHolland

READ THE REST OF OUR ROUNDUPS FROM NYFW:

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Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

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FAULT Focus: Internationally renowned designer Tadashi Shoji for FAULT Issue 14

Tadashi Shoji

FAULT: Tell us about the inspiration behind your Fall/Winter 2013 collection.
Tadashi: The Fall/Winter 2013 collection tells a tale of exiled nobility, inspired by the splendor of the Russian Empire and the eventual fall of imperial Rule.  I recently visited St. Petersburg, Russia, and was most impressed by the city itself, shrouded in the darkness of winter. The resplendent Winter Palace shone brilliantly against the shadowy backdrop of a darkened sky. It was a time fraught with turbulence. Exiled royalty exiled to Siberia, disguised in peasant clothing. Inspired by this escape, this collection marries aristocratic style with folkloric details.

What are your best moments and biggest achievements in the last 30 years? What moments were more challenging?

The first time I showed at New York Fashion Week in 2007 was a challenging yet proud moment.  I felt that showing in New York would raise the brand image as well as expose us to international customers and editors, which is important to our growth.  Another special moment was seeing Best Supporting Actress nominee Octavia Spencer in my dress at last year’s Academy Awards red carpet – and at the podium when she won the Oscar!

What inspired and motivated you to release this capsule collection? What do these looks mean to you?

We reissued and modernised six iconic dresses from the archives.  These dresses were carefully chosen and hand-picked to be reproduced as they define a signature look: the tiered dress.  I still use this technique to this day in my designs, and women appreciate the way the lines drape over and flatter the body.  I wanted the capsule collection to represent colours from the current Spring 2013 collection but in silhouettes that span the past 30 years.

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Find out what’s in store for Tadashi Shoji in the near future and his long-term plans exclusively in FAULT Issue 14!

FAULT MAGAZINE ISSUE 14 (SPRING ’13) – THE TASTE ISSUE – IS AVAILABLE TO ORDER HERE NOW.

 *FAULT MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE FOR DELIVERY WORLDWIDE*

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