Now & Then – Volker Eichenhofer’s exclusive editorial for FAULT Online

Jacket and Shorts – Maison Margiela

 

Shirt – You Must Create
Trousers – Jil Sander

 

Tank Top – Schiesser
Trousers – Comme des Garçons

 

Customized Jump Suit – Dickies

 

Whole look – Dior Homme

 

Trousers – Comme des Garçons

 

Photography and Styling by Volker Eichenhofer / www.studioVE.net
Model Azhar S. (Kult Models)

Part 2: Paris Fashion Week Roundup, AW14 Womenswear

Following on from PART 1 of our Paris Fashion Week roundup, here’s our review from some of our favourite fashion designers;  CélineBalmain, ACNE, Margiela, Rick Owens and more.

 

Célineceline

 

Balmainbalmain

 

ACNE Studiosacne

 

Saint Laurentlaurent

At Céline and Balmain, animal prints were presented with a similar luxurious subtlety as at Givenchy. Céline’s Phoebe Philo worked the prints into a collection that was beautifully restrained, with a palette of black, grey, cream and camel, woven into which were a muted leopard print, hints of enlarged gingham and textiles like feathered wool and Astrakhan. Balmain’s collection was a much more clear reference to safari, with riffs on safari suits and camo colours, amidst abstracted zebra and leopard print. Zebra print also made an appearance at Acne Studios, in a collection that seemed to also draw on the safari influence, with a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s famous collection in the Seventies. This retro inspiration was clear in the swirling print patterns, the candied colour palette and wide-legged trousers. This Seventies influence was as potent as ever in the actual Saint Laurent collection, with Hedi Slimane’s ongoing tribute to glam rock androgyny helped along by Alex Turner and Miles Kane sipping champagne in the front row. From the fur and sparkles, to the miniskirts and floppy hats, amidst prints of paisley and plaid, this was a veritable feast of retro style and it is testament to Slimane’s electric modernity and eye for youth that the references didn’t feel tired.

 

Vivienne Westwood westwood

 

Maison Martin Margiela margiela

Vivienne Westwood’s collection was a true celebration of her label, possessing much more impact than her relatively tame Red Label show in London the other week. This show exploded in colour and print, combining label signatures of silhouette and shape with a youthful, almost riotous energy. At Maison Martin Margiela, there was a similar sense of heritage and label hallmarks, but here these were in the treatment of tweed, merged with the silhouettes and tailoring upon which Margiela made its name. The result was an incredibly beautiful and subtle collection that was at once feminine and finely detailed, yet effortless and utterly wearable.

 

Rick Owensrick

 

Gareth Pughgarethpugh

At the opposite end of the spectrum to the candy colours, decorative detailing and concept prints of labels like Chanel and Kenzo, some collections offered the avant-garde minimalism that has been central to Paris since the arrival of the Japanese designers to the city in the 1980s. Rick Owens, who has made this kind of punky minimalism a hallmark all of his own, delivered looks in total blocks of either black, oxblood or grey. The shapes were oversized and, again, biomorphic, with curvilinear sleeves and shell-like drapery. Pleats and variations of textile allowed for a considered experimentation, fully expressing Owens’ unique and intelligent eye.  Gareth Pugh’s collection was in a vein that was at once similar, and entirely different. Whilst minimalist in terms of being rendered entirely in white and silver, this collection was extravagant in silhouette and cut, with Pugh’s tailoring of a breathtaking standard. Consistently eye-catching, he continues to push his label forward with intricate detailing. Rei Kawakubo’s collection for Comme des Garçons was again a pushing of the boundaries of fashion, in line with her desire to make ‘objects of the body’ as declared last season. The result was in biomorphic, tubular knits that hung like literal sculptures , protruding from the body.

 

Comme des Garçonscomme

In terms of the influence of the Paris shows, it will surely be the clever treatment of colour and print that filters into the mainstream; the broken animal prints, the neon inserts, the ongoing block-colouring filtered through pleats and trouser-suits. With your local supermarket and McDonald’s now firmly absorbed into the fashion domain, perhaps the industry’s influence will be more pervasive than ever.

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid

‘Big Time Sensuality’ – Massimo Zanusso’s FAULT

 

Vintage Comme Des Garcons

Vintage Comme Des Garcons

Jacket & Trousers: Mauro Grifoni Shirt: Acne

Jacket & Trousers: Mauro Grifoni
Shirt: Acne

Smoking jacket: Giuliano Fujiwara Sandals: Marni

Smoking jacket: Giuliano Fujiwara
Sandals: Marni

Trench: Giuliano Fujiwara Hat: Archivio

Trench: Giuliano Fujiwara
Hat: Archivio

Shirt: Eton Jacket: Prada

Shirt: Eton
Jacket: Prada

Trench: Comeforbreakfast Jacket: Mauro Grifoni Trousers: Maison Martin Margela

Trench: Comeforbreakfast
Jacket: Mauro Grifoni
Trousers: Maison Martin Margela

 

Trousers: Dior Homme Shoes: Vic Matie'

Trousers: Dior Homme
Shoes: Vic Matie’

Hat: Borsalino Jacket & top: Comeforbreakfast Trousers: Dries Van Noten

Hat: Borsalino
Jacket & top: Comeforbreakfast
Trousers: Dries Van Noten

 Photographer: Massimo Zanusso

Stylist: Ilaria Chionna

Makeup: Giovanni Iovine @ W-MManagement

Hair: Marco Minunno @ W-Mmanagement

Model: Helena B @ NEXT

Brooklyn Bound: James Loveday’s FAULT

Photography: James Loveday
Styling: Fay Leshner
Models: Alicia Roundtree @ Ford & James Angelo @ Red
Hair & Make Up: Sergey Logvinov
Special thanks to Kelsey Randall & Bergdorf Goodman

Motel Summer: Alan Chan for FAULT

Alan Chan exclusive for FAULT Magazine. Shot in Vancouver, Canada.

Watch the Behind the Scenes Video on FAULT FILM

 

Opening Ceremony sweater at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Sandro shorts at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Cacharel belt at Gravity Pope Tailored Goods; Joe Fresh earrings; Sam Edelman espadrilles at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Stylist's own scarf

Joe Fresh top; Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony skirt at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Archetype sunglasses; Joe Fresh earrings; G by Guess shoes at The Bay Vancouver Downtown

Joe Fresh top; Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony skirt at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Archetype sunglasses; Joe Fresh earrings; G by Guess shoes at The Bay Vancouver Downtown

Joe Fresh top; Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony skirt at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Archetype sunglasses; Joe Fresh earrings; G by Guess shoes at The Bay Vancouver Downtown

Armani Jeans jacket at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Joe Fresh shirt and earrings; Elen Danielle skirt

Archetype blouse; Comme des Garcons Play cardigan at Gravity Pope Tailored Goods Vintage; shorts at Mintage; Steve Madden platforms at Gravity Pope

Archetype blouse; Comme des Garcons Play cardigan at Gravity Pope Tailored Goods Vintage; shorts at Mintage; Steve Madden platforms at Gravity Pope

See by Chloe sweater at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Topshop pants at The Bay Vancouver Downtown; Vintage purse at Mintage Archetype sunglasses; Joe Fresh earrings ; UNIF loafers at Jennyfleur Loves

 

Photography by ALAN CHAN (alanchanstudio.com)
Styling by PATRICA LAGMAY @ THEYrep.com
Makeup and Hair by EMAN @ THEYrep.com using MAKE UP FOR EVER cosmetics and AG hair products
Styling Assistant by NICOLA WRIGHT
Photography Assistant by JACKY LING
Model AMY G. @ Lizbell Agency