Collaborating with the world's leading artists in Fashion, Film & Music
Photographer: Vito Faugiana
Stylist: Stefano Guerrini
mua and hair stylist: Marika Bongiardino
photographer’s assistants: Sara Fasani and Veronica Mirandi
stylist’s assistants: Piermattia Aiello and Cecilia Gioetti
set assistant: Giacomo Tagliati
model: Michelle Zwaal @ Women direct Milano
Words: Katlin Siil
Gone are the days when London as a fashion capital took the backseat while Paris and New York dominated the scene. Still underfunded, London nonetheless boasts some of the most remarkable talent out there, drawing from its underground roots and adapting to a demanding commercial market. Day 4 at London Fashion Week demonstrated what sets us apart – we are the capital of forward thinking and innovative power, but we also pay tribute to our heritage. The combination of the two have created the perfect environment for nurturing fashion designers who, fresh out of LCM and CSM, are ready to take on the world.
Peter Pilotto
Darker than usual, fashion duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos opened the morning with a Spanish renaissance inspired collection of their signature style prints and clever silhouettes. Full of bold reds and bright blues, the collection referenced fine art with its bold brushstrokes, along with the blazing Mediterranean sun. Last season favorite, the puffa-jacket, returned to the stage, along with a new looser jacket and coat, slashed skirts and the very Pilotto overdose of prints.
Antonio Berardi
Detailing was also the name of the game at Antonio Berardi. He presented a cohesive collection in a limited colour palette, mainly in dark grays and blues, paying tribute to the female form with his constructed shift dresses, waistcoats and jackets. The simplicity of the collection was balanced by the long train. It made an appearance on several occasions attached to short dresses, jackets and most notably in the long gowns of the finale set.
Louise Gray
Louise Gray’s collection was the much appreciated colour pop in an otherwise dark day. Typically Gray, it was a somewhat schizophrenic cacophony of mismatched prints, clashing colours and ironic styling in the form of librarian glasses and oversized bags. But it all melted together into a playful collection that made total sense. Broken down, it consisted of strong, wearable pieces from cute knits to fun short dresses to tailored separates.
Erdem
Erdem, known for his luscious bright florals, stuck to darker hues this season. There was still the familiar flower patterns and lace, ladylike dresses and easy wearable skirt suits, but it all had an almost gothic edge to it. It was the cleverly placed sheer details, feathers and shimmer that made the collection sexier. If a designer who has become so loved for his style still feels he wants to – needs to – take risks and explore new territories, then he really has all to gain and nothing to lose.
Burberry
Star models strutting down the catwalk, celebrities sitting like birds on a wire in the front row – it can only be Burberry. For many, the Burberry show is the only reason to travel to London between New York and Milan. And Christopher Bailey did not disappoint – he rarely does. Burberry collections don’t re-invent the wheel, but you can count on them to be 10 minutes of absolute aesthetic pleasure. This season, the Burberry girl was clad in animal prints, ballerina flats and carrying oversized clutch bags. She was sophisticated and a bit Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour and she was definitely more grown up – something we’ve seen in many collections this season.
Osman
Osman gave us perhaps one his strongest collections to date. It was opulent and showered in cold brocade, but it was the refreshingly simple colour pallet of whites and pale greys that created the fitting backdrop for his crafty patterns and detailing. The sheer tops went beautifully with the heavy tailored dresses, while the furs tops complemented the brilliantly cut trousers. There is something to be said about an all-white collection: it just works. Especially after seasons and seasons of bright collections and in the midst of all this black.
Giles
Trust Giles to bring a bit of theatrics to London Fashion Week. The man known for staging some of the most spectacular shows (The Black Swan drama at the Royal Courts of Justice, anyone?) gave another stellar performance and anyone who was anyone was there to witness. In typical Giles fashion there was an abundance of print, pattern and fabric. The familiar laser-cut leather made its mandatory appearance, while the floor-length flowing gowns, oversized puff sleeves and the dusty make-up on the models gave the whole affair a very ethereal feel. That, and Kristen McMenamy opening the show. Giles, we salute you for sticking to your guns (or scissors, as the case may be) and not paying attention to trends and all that jazz!
J.W. Anderson
J.W. Anderson can do no wrong. He can give us boys in skirts and tube tops (LCM collections ring a bell?) and we still think he is a genius. That’s probably because he is with his so very distinct, so very unique and so very-very desirable painfully simple style. A pioneer of fuss-free fashion, his Autumn/Winter 2013 collection was minimal and sleek. He gave us an almost clinical show of cleverly draped blacks and whites, paired with tennis shoes and sleek hair – something only JW Anderson can make look feminine and sexy.
Photographer : Cihan Oncu
Styling : Anil Can
Make up : Melis Ilkkilic
Hair : Nuri Sekerci
Dress by Kimchi Blue
Necklace BCBG by Max Azria
Blouse by Zara
Pants by Zara
Necklace – BCBG by Max Azria
Dress by Vintage Neiman Marcus
Shoes by Alexander McQueen
Scarf by Zara
Dress by Vintage Neiman Marcus
Scarf by Zara
Dress by Lucca Couture
Blouse- BCBG by Max Azria
Necklace by Zara
Dress by Top Shop
Shoes by Steve Madden
Coat by Burberry
Belt by BCBG by Max Azria
Shoes by Guess by Marciano
Bustier by Top Shop
Skirt- BCBG by Max Azria
Shoes by Alexander McQueen
Necklace by Zara
Headpiece by Top Shop
Jacket by Top Shop
Pants- BCBG by Max Azria
Shoes by Alexander McQueen
Blouse by Zara
Pants by Zara
Necklace- BCBG by Max Azria
Shoes by Steve Madden
Jacket by Top Shop
Pants- BCBG by Max Azria
Shoes by Alexander McQueen
Photographer: Miguel Starcevich
Styling: Luke Storey & Lauren Messiah
Makeup: Anna Branson
Hair: Johnny Z
With London Fashion week all but a distant memory, the ever-evolving world of fashion is now looking towards next summer! Especially relevant as the nights are closing in, boots are dug out of storage and comfort food is on the menu. It’s only the access to next seasons’ bikinis and the promise of pina coladas that are going to get us fashionistas through the winter months!
With that in mind, fashion next season is taking on a number of stand-out trends. As usual, there is something for everyone, but if you can pin point key pieces from the catwalks, the high street will be bursting with their own take on the following come next spring.
Futuristic is still making an impact, with Burberry 
Monochrome is going to be big with the power dressers; Simple silhouettes, and basic shapes were prevalent on a number of catwalks, leaving room for accessorizing or keeping it nice and neat. With Sass and Bide
Sports luxe is another trend that seems to have wedged a place in the fash packs hearts. Inspired by this year’s Olympics, or just generally the joy of running around in sporty gear in the summer, designers were sending out models faster than tennis ball practice! Christian Blanken has long aligned himself with the sportswear aesthetic, producing collections in a practical fashion for fashion and not sport! Fusing python print, suede and liquid metal, there is something for the girl on the go, all staying true to a fuss free philosophy of mix and match basics. David Koma’s collection was a lot more specific and referenced female tennis stars of the 1920s; Basing the collection on bodycon and dropped waist dresses, the collection was mostly a very wearable and extremely practical full house. With the colour palette of green, tangerine, blue and white- its freshness will be sure to inspire, and if the go faster stripes make you go faster, all the better! Liz Black also offered a complimentary sports inspired silhouette; With her colour choice being pink and black, she used perforated elements, which lent a cosmopolitan edge and breaks the mould of tradition. Zoe Jordan also based her collection on a sports luxe theme with a mash up of girly shades and tomboy shapes; there was a mixture of crop tops, blazers, harem pants and bombers. Completed by baseball caps and sunglasses, this is one for the kool kidz! Talking of cool crowd, Ashish showed a much more reserved collection than usual, but it still had oodles of personality! Sequins mixed with denim mixed with scrunchies and styled by Anna Trevelyan who completed the back to the nineties grunge look with white Reebok classics. And if that isn’t enough to make you want to break out a sweat, there must be something wrong!
If dressing safe is not your thing, another key trend is mismatch. Strong in the belief that clashing works, designers including Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Meadham Kirchoff, Peter Pilotto and Issa lead us down the path that is not for the faint hearted; Mashing up colours and shapes all in the name of fun, you can find anything from hypercolour, fringing, pom poms and paisley! Henry Holland brought us 90s neon complete with tiny cropped tops; Also appealing was the PPQ inspired psychedelic collection; If you’re a fan of the mini/maxi extremes are you will fall in love with the embellished dresses, jumpsuits and halter necks. Leutton Postle also offered an eclectic mix. Definitely screaming summer, the clash of patterns – blocks, triangles, stripes, mish matched collars, tongue in cheek tassels and to die for shoes, they add a sense of drama to any spring summer wardrobe. The Louise Gray collection screamed FUN! Based on graffiti, there is much to be said about the appeal of a “Hot” “Yeah o Yeah” and other expletives! Definitely a talking point, the leather, appliqué and chiffon was showcased as high energy and with Barbie as a show sponsor, I guess we shouldn’t have expected anything less! Holly Fulton is another designer who steers well away from the ordinary! Transporting us to the City of Angels- LA, the bubblegum colours and riotous prints have already sent a teaser of an unimaginable hot summer, cruising around with oversized sunnies and the roof down on your Chevy Corvette.
Gaining a more grown up reputation, stripes and checks crossed over to SS and cropped up on several catwalks and are a refreshing contrast to a nautical look. Jonathan Saunders played with metallic stripes in cool blue and silver, while Giles experimented with thick black and white horizontal stripes.
Markus Lupfer
Above all, there is much to look forward to, and with tights also seeming to have made a bit of an impact, SS13 fashion might be ready for the great British summer!
By Sara Darling
Photographer : Mustafa Cetin
Styling : Ceren Cetinoglu
Model : Mari Liis Roots – Joy Model Management,Istanbul
Hair : Huseyin Acikgoz
Make-up : Yasin Sefik
Post-production : Firat Meric
With London Collections: Men arriving, we now have a showcase for the best in menswear design that London has to offer, fitting neatly into the menswear schedule dictated by Paris and Milan. Big names such as Paul Smith and Burberry in the line-up, and even some support brought in from across the pond by the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, promise to finally grant British menswear all the attention it deserves.
Astrid Andersen – A/W 2012
But London Collections: Men is not just an improvement compared to the off-schedule London Fashion Week Menswear Day in terms of timing. A long list of exhibitions and presentations, and not to forget a launch event hosted by HRH The Prince of Wales himself, will celebrate British tradition and unsurpassed quality, while young designers will get the chance to present their work to international press. That mix of experience, tradition, innovation and new ideas is what makes London stand out as a fashion capital.
By creating London Collections: Men, the British Fashion Council did not only intend to offer British fashion houses a bigger media platform for their menswear lines, but also to offer international and British press and buyers an ‘eclectic and exciting mix of designers.’ Long established businesses with decades of experience, such as London’s world famous Savile Row tailors, attract an audience that is above all interested in craftsmanship and well-made tailoring, giving up-and-coming labels the chance to prove that their work is of similarly astonishing quality. Likewise, emerging designers and fresh fashion graduates from London’s countless fashion schools draw the attention of those who look for new ideas and innovation, which they will just as well find in the collection of a traditional British brand.
Agi&Sam – A/W2012
Britain’s heritage brands and tailors managed to stay relevant over the decades and continue to do so because of their worldwide reputation and incomparable skills. But also by keeping up with younger brands and making use of all the modern marketing strategies. Long gone are the times of wood-panelled stores being a standard in Savile Row, these days Mayfair’s tailors outdo each other with most exciting window displays and some of them even launch ready-to-wear collections every season. Burberry, the epitome of a traditional British brand, has one of the most star-studded front rows in the industry at each and every show.
In a similar way, young and hopeful designers turn to experienced brands for inspiration and knowledge, one of the most well-known examples being Alexander McQueen. As one of the greatest innovators of the last couple of years, he learned his craft as an apprentice in Savile Row, cutting patterns and stitching together classic bespoke suits.
MAN, a joint initiative of Topman and Fashion East, supports the newest menswear labels in London and presents their work to the world. Designer Astrid Andersen, whose collection will be shown as part of the MAN showcase, finds some of the inspiration for her innovative sportswear-inspired pieces in the craftsmanship of traditional tailors. Similarly, design duo Agi&Sam, who will present their work alongside Astrid Andersen, make us of very traditional pattern cutting and tailoring techniques, but pair them with unconventional prints and textures, playing with tradition and new ideas.
There’s no doubt that London Collections: Men’s debut will catapult the new showcase into international spotlight, along with London’s menswear designers, making the ever growing market for men’s luxury apparel more accessible for them. London’s identity as a place where tradition and innovation are equally valued and complement each other will set it apart from the rest and leaves us excited to see what’s to come.
London Collections: Men will take place from June 14 to June 17.
