LFW Feb ’14: Day 4 AW14

FAULT‘s fashion team hit the catwalk shows and backstage at London Fashion Week (Feb ’14) to bring you our favourite pieces from the Autumn / Winter 2014 shows. Stay connected – on TwitterFacebook or right here on FAULT Online – for our round-up of the designers and trends that we have our eye on.

 

 Roksanda Ilincic

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Is it safe to assume that come AW14 the colour Royal blue is going to be EVERYWHERE? Here it cropped up again in Roksanda Ilincic’s new collection. The pieces looked strongly influenced by modern art with staggered hemlines, interesting, angular draping, with strong use of colour and blocks of colour with sheer panels plus angular pattern repeating throughout. Stripes made a subtle appearance and could be seen on the edges of hems, around collars and and on the larger patterns of the clothing. Thick woolen, luxurious-looking pieces made way to a confetti dress made up of shards of colour, this then continued more subtly onto the other pieces that followed in the collection. Cute flat shoes and ankle socks reigned supreme, as did gorgeous chunky gold belts leaving us with a vision of the thinking woman’s wardrobe.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

OSMAN

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The Osman A/W14 collection was a beautiful collision of the Middle Eastern- Moorish prints, Byzantine blue, dusty Moroccan pink- with the surrealism of Europe in the 1920s. These influences played off each other beautifully, with sleek, minimalist silhouettes allowing for intricately ornamental embellishment, surreal embroidery, and exotic details such as sashes. The palette was bold without being too much, with shades that felt well-researched and prints that seemed authentic. It felt that this collection really took a journey and paid tribute to the nuances and intricacies of another culture. Yousefzada laid out a new shape, with asymmetrical hemlines and skinny cropped trousers that seemed a nod to Raf Simons at Dior. The surreal details – bold eyes and manicured hands – did not impose, instead adding a lightness and playful quality to what was otherwise a very heavy, luxe look.  From full evening dresses to separates and accessories, this is a collection that will translate well both in print and on the shop floor. On the runway, the richness of colour and print made a striking impact, but the finer details of the texture and elegant tailoring really took this collection to another level.

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid

 

Marios Schwab

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In what felt like a much more commercial collection for Schwab, which felt less focused on the red carpet and more about bringing the label into the closets of modern women, an edge of cool could be seen throughout. With a play on hemlines, structure and with most of the hemlines super-short, this was a focused collection from someone who knows their target audience well. Leather jackets, bomber jackets and capes were slung over pretty dresses or leather trousers. Sheer layers with elegant shapes and even trains featured in the catwalk show, there’s something in this collection that would appeal to everyone and that, lies in it’s success.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Erdem

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Erdem’s collection took on elements of the 1960′s with references of fine couture and heritage techniques woven into delicate fabric, with the designers signature flowers and blooms. With many of the pieces having a purposely unfinished feel. The attention to detail, as always expected with this label, was exquisite. Gold, black and cream brocade sat alongside wet-look coats and jackets for an interesting contrast. Some coats and dresses were unexpectedly slashed at the elbows, sheer panels popped up at the neck and the focus on embroidery and embellishment could be seen in each piece. Far from being stuffy, this is a modern Erdem glimpsing at the past while striding forcefully into the future.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

David Koma

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David Koma’s show was a slick affair, with each piece being well thought out, edited back and refined so that the brand’s message was completely clear. That the Koma woman means business. Open-toed boots or shoes clad every model, the boots of note being the knee-highs – giving the outfits a feeling of restriction yet freedom. The first looks that entered the catwalk were a rich purple in a complete body colour-block – a bold statement. This led to grey to white to black and finally to pops of royal blue. Caging detail and harnessing revealed hints of flesh, looking decidedly stern, yet, the full skirts were more of a feminine, pretty detail. Leather and ‘angular lace’ however were far from pretty, creating a bold, strong statement that despite the dominatrix overtones, look surprisingly wearable.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Burberry Prorsum

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Burberry was a painterly affair this season with botanical prints on bags, scarves and jackets with more than a passing nod to the artists muse or the 70′s bohemian, which is an unusual spin for AW14 but one that we can thankfully embrace. The longer skirt lengths, the cinched waist and the easy, draped shawls, blankets and sheepskin coats made for a high-class aristocratic mood, but one where the heroine runs away with a penniless poet, painter or musician. The monogrammed scarves, the caped trench and the hand painted bags will no doubt sell out fast as the must-have buys for the new season. The pretty delicate dresses and the wearable, statement coats will undoubtably be do well amongst the labels core fans. The Burberry powerhouse is showing no signs of slowing down, so it was fun to see Bailey having a lighter mood this season and looking to the bohemian for his inspiration, we applaud it.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

Peter Pilotto

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This was a pleasant surprise from Peter Pilotto this season after previous seasons displaying a more restricted and refined aesthetic. There was colour and print and lots of it, having varying levels of success in some pieces more than others. Literally every piece was unexpected and just when you thought that you had the collection ‘fixed’ in your head, a new equally dazzling look would emerge down the catwalk. An alpine print was used to great effect in both a dress and a padded suit, the sporty, patterned coats felt extremely ‘now’, whilst the colourful patterned detail picked up where Mary Kantranzou has left off and took us in a new direction. I loved the slouchy layering of contrasting patterned knits, more so than the earlier pieces, I can imagine the effortless comfort of wearing these looks and yet looking totally wild and eclectic at the same time. Despite reading conflicting reviews elsewehere, this collection gets a big thumbs up from me.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

GILES

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Giles is the designer who we can rely on to represent the cool British girls. This season he focused on playfulness and anarchy. The show was set in a dark car park in the East End of London to set the mood, with strobing lighting to add to the overall rebellious ‘Giles’ vibe. Punky looking girls strode the catwalk, with Brit model, Cara, snapping selfies of herself and the front row, creating an iconic catwalk moment. The theme was rebellion, the clothes either tropical bright, lime tartan or monochrome. Hummingbirds were the motif of the collection, trickling out towards the end as bugs crawling the edges of cocktail dresses. It did, as a whole feel a bit haphazard, however there were coveteable pieces in there, namely the capes, the long straight dresses, the leather items and the shorter dresses. The accessories will be perfect for wearability alone – long, leather gloves, huge scarves and punked-up boots will add an instant update to any winter wardrobe. Giles’ previous seasons are hard to follow, however we have no doubt that the best is yet to come.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

TOM FORD

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Showing a wicked sense of humour, Tom Ford took a cultural reference and spun it on it’s head with his upgraded version of the ‘Tom Ford 61′. A knockoff top that’s been doing the rounds in sub-culture – Ford’s now turned into a glittery party dress. The rest of the collection felt 60′s and a bit rock n roll with a sombre mood. Monochrome featured heavily throughout the collection, with splashes of bold red, copper and leopard print. There was a big play on textures with sequins, leather, velvet and wool. Of note were the long velvet dresses, so casual and wearable, yet so high-end at the same time. They could easily be dressed up for the red carpet with some striking jewels or down with a pair of rugged biker boots.

Ford proves season after season that’s he’s a master of the catwalk. With a huge celebrity turnout, plus using big name models such as Karen Elson, Liberty Ross, Stella Tennant and Georgia Jagger during his show, his pulling power is clear to see. And that’s the reason why we keep coming back, because we just can’t get enough Tom Ford in our lives.

Words by Rachel Holland

 

KTZ

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In the last year, KTZ has reached a whole new level of iconic brand identity. With the likes of Rihanna and A$AP ROCKY on board, the label has swiftly made an imprint upon the mainstream with its monochrome palette, bold prints and edgy proportions. In this vein, it can be easy to assume you’ll know what a KTZ show will look like before it comes down the runway. However the label somehow continues to challenge its own aesthetic, finding a new innovation whilst satisfying its cult following. This season the look was a sort of Medieval-Bionic-hybrid, with tabards and tunics in the form of oversized and embellished shirts and dresses, worn with leggings and trousers in beautifully manipulated silk and leather. Ribbed leather leggings had the look of machine parts, whilst jackets and tunic had a heavy luxury, weighted with geometric jewel patterns and studs. For their menswear presentation this season, the label sent models down the runway with snow-shrouded faces and this Arctic influence carried over; from the puffa jackets to the Doctor Zhivago hoods in pale silk lace. To put it simply, this was yet another triumph for a label that is already taking the world by storm. Who knows where they will be by next season?

Words by Will Ballantyne-Reid

 

 

‘No Surrender’ – exclusive fashion editorial for FAULT Online

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Him: coat&boots:  MCQ by Alexander McQueen, Kilt by Burberry, socks by Tabio;
Her: shirt: MCQ, trousers by Miu Miu, shoes: Rochas Paris, socks: Topman

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Her: coat by Cabinet, skirt by  Miu Miu, Belt by Maison Martin Margiela, vest by American Vintage, socks by Tabio, shoes Dolce & Gabbana;
Him: bomber jeans and boots by MCQ, t-shirt: American Vintage

 

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Him: parka&boots: MCQ, t-shirt: American Vintage, skirt from Beyond Retro;
Her: jacket by Marc Jacobs, Jeans: MCQ, shoes by Dries Van Noten socks: Tabio

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Cardigan by Maison Martin Margiela, t-shirt by DKNY, shoes by Dries van Noten, tights by Pretty Polly

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Him: Waistcoat by Kristian Steinberg, trousers and shoes by MCQ
Her: shirt: MCQ, vest: American Vintage, Skirt and trousers by MIu Miu, shoes by Dries van Noten, socks: Topman

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Her: trousers by Maison Martin Margiela; shoes: Rochas Paris
Him: shirt by Raf Simons; skirt by Miu Miu, jeans and boots by MCQ

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Him: Jacket by Kristian Steinberg, skirt by Miu Miu, jeans and boots: MCQ
Her: top and skirt by Maison Martin Margiela, shoes: Rochas Paris

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Polo top: Raf Simons for Fred Perry, trousers: MCQ

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Her: bomber by MCQ, trousers by Marc Jacobs, socks by Tabio, shoes by Dolce & Gabbana
Him: parka and boots by MCQ, trousers by Kristian Steinberg

Photography: Felicity Sagoe @ Rootdownphotographic
Stylist: Felix Elisabetta Forma
Make up Artist and Hair: Justina Sullivan
Models: Jordyn @ IZAIO Management
Lewis@ Dark Arts Alternative Model Agency
Retouching: Felicity Sagoe & Virginie Montagnon
Special Thanks: Rin, P, Paul and Martin

Black front to back – Victoria Gregory’s FAULT

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Dress – Victoria by Victoria Beckham

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Dress – Mila Schon
Jacket – Preen Line
Boots – Jimmy Choo

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Jacket – Victoria Beckham

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Jumper – Yanny London
Jeans – Blk Dnm

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Jumper – Alessia Prekop
Skirt – Burberry

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Jacket – Etro
Trousers – Felder Felder

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Dress – Karl Lagerfeld
Jacket – Blk Dnm

Photographer: Chris Moore (http://www.chrismoorephoto.co.uk/)
Stylist: Victoria Gregory (http://victoriagregorystyling.tumblr.com/)
Make up: Claudia Savage using MAC Cosmetics (http://www.claudiasavage.co.uk/)
Hair: Claudia Savage using Bumble and Bumble
Photography assistants: Morgan Sinclair, Louise Robinson
Models: Brit Brockhurst @ Elite and Shauna Bennett @ Elite

London Fashion Week: Day 4 Highlights

Monday was arguably the most anticipated day of LFW with numerous big names showing, most notably FAULT Favourite Burberry. Our day began with the geometric prints and striking yellows of Roksanda Ilincic, her collection once again showcasing her unique palette sampling expertise.

Roksanda Ilincic

Roksanda Ilincic

Next it was on to the eagerly awaited Christopher Kane show, proving a favourite amongst many show goers season after season, Kane returned with another strong collection and one of our favourite shows. Using more autumnal, wintery cuts and compositions than other designers of the day but balancing them out with delicate fabrics and floral prints.

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Erdem followed and delivered a strong monochrome collection featuring delicate lace detailing and the reoccurring sheer motive, ever popular throughout SS14.

Erdem

Erdem

In a stark contrast from the morning’s shows young designer Nasir Mazhar brought street wear to the stage with his logo-heavy presentation in the Topshop Show Space. Borrowing heavily from the mens show presented at LC:M the collection is sure to draw in yet more high profile fans.

Nasir Mazhar

Nasir Mazhar

A carefully considered digital presentation by Cristina Sabaduic followed, a beautifully produced video of her new collection projected behind models that showcased her designs how they were envisaged. A collection brought to life by movement with sheer fabrics and feminine shapes in abundance, the collection erfectly encapsulating a nostalgic summer.

Following a now trademark frantic rush to Kensington Gardens, I was greeted with walls of paparazzi and hoards of screaming One Direction fans, this could only mean two things. 1. I’d arrived at the Burberry show and 2. a certain young band member was also in attendance… The anticipation and excitement surrounding the Burberry show, is unlike many similar events, warranted. Burberry always manage to deliver. The buzz inside the glass structure this season was furthered more-so with rumours of lace detailing and updates on classic shapes – how better to impress than to improve classic favourites? The collection comprised of soft pastel hues complimented with the rumoured lace detailing, soft hues paired with soft fabrics, cashmere and wool both prevalent. The show was as theatrical as ever with the finale seeing Brit favourites Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn along with the other perfectly cast models, strolling down the catwalk to breezy summery music as petals fell from above. Burberry once again proving they know how to steal the show.

Burberry SS14

Burberry

Later on, KTZ delivered their hard-hitting street wear inspired collection to a captivated audience in Somerset House. The perfectly complimenting music mixed by A-Trak keeping crowd excitement at peak throughout. The collection played host to trademark studs and bold print, all cut to perfection with strong silhouettes comprised of numerous layers. The go-to street wear brand of the moment once again showing they’re the ones to beat.

KTZ

KTZ

Pringle of Scotland showcased a beautifully composed collection of colour and shapes in The Connaught Hotel with Cobalt blue once again showing up as a colour of SS14. We particularly liked the cutout detailing seen in the tops from the collection.

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

To end the Monday fashion marathon it was down to Giles and Tom Ford to compete with the days shows. Both more than worthy competitors. First was Giles with their beautifully realised collection of printed dresses juxtaposed with the evening gowns seen later on. My personal favourite would have to be the dress printed with a 90′s Prada advert featuring Amber Valletta.

Giles

Giles

FAULT Favourite Tom Ford is not a designer you would consider doubting and once again proved why. Evening wear at it’s very finest, leather, lace and more leather with more than a hint of sparkle, all immaculately crafted and as flattering as physically possible, I can guarantee these designs will be seeing more than just a few red carpets.

Tom Ford

Tom Ford

 

Words by Louis A W Sheridan

Burberry does Paris

If you, like me, are in love with Paris, and all the shopping that comes with it, you might not need any persuasion to pop over for a weekend!

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And with autumn drawing closer, Brit label Burberry has joined forces with iconic department store Printemps, to share the love of it’s much loved trench, as part of the ‘London Mania’ celebration. Burberry has joined forces with the store and will be transforming the windows into a series of London scenes to bring a piece of edgy and downright eclectic London to gay Paree.

Using Burberry’s iconic trench coat as the inspiration, the window displays fuse British heritage with 21st century innovation, and allow passers by to be transported into a truly unique London landscape.

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If you are lucky enough to already own a Burberry mac, you might want to participate in the ‘Art of the Trench’, which is a unique notion where the real people who wear the classic trench coat are used as models- whether known or unknown! The victims are being snapped at various locations throughout Paris and the images are being displayed in the atrium and store windows.

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To coincide with the Printemps initiative, a limited edition collection has also launched, featuring bold new denim and soft leather jackets. Each piece is inspired by the energy and excitement of the London live music scene, so if that’s not a good excuse to go to Paris, I don’t know what is!!

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‘Burberry loves Printemps’ runs from 22 August – 20 October 2013.

By Sara Darling

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LCM roundup: SS’ 14 Menswear – Tuesday 18th June

If the theme of day 2 at LCM was that of collections transcending genders, then the theme for day 3 proved to be somewhat of an antithesis to the movement. The stand out shows and presentations of the day came from the classic designers renowned for their gentlemanly shapes and styles. First up was the Tom Ford presentation.

Bold colours, streamlined shapes and hand embroidered details were key to the collection. FAULT Favourite Tom Ford introduced each look personally and gave insight in to the inspiration behind each piece. Perhaps most famed for his evening wear, Tom did not disappoint with the new collection, “This seasons jacket, developed from the one we created for Daniel Craig in the latest Bond film” was perhaps the most notable revelation, stand out pieces were the floral print trousers, hand embroidered slippers and brightly coloured suede jackets. “Soft shoes with everything” stated Tom.

photographs by Tom Ford

photographs by Tom Ford

James Long‘s collection was inspired by the cycling event the Helltrack, the influence was clear throughout. Mesh bomber jackets, lycra tops and bold striped sweaters all projected the sporting feel when paired with the mirrored sunglasses and Kurt Geiger sneakers.

James Long

James Long

Next it was the turn of Christopher Shannon whose collection drew influence from the early Northern super clubs. Glittering hair, floral prints, latex shirts and pvc high-waisted shorts came together to make up the bold, well-receieved collection. There was a certain nostalgia surrounding the looks but it was clear to all present, that Christopher is certainly looking forwards not backwards.

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Burberry made the welcome return to London this season a decision that attracted substantial amounts of publicity. Of course Burberry stepped up to the plate and delivered as usual, proving that once again the hype surrounding the brand was deserved. Set in the beautiful Kensington Gardens, the star studded show reinforced the brands importance within menswear whilst also displaying an awareness of fashion history and the creativity stemming from certain individuals, notably David Hockney. Primary colours, polkadots and stripes all helped add a playful edge to the tailored collection.

Burberry

photograph by Burberry

Savile Row’s Chester Barrie presented a new collection delivering a more casual approach to fashion than their usual formal tailoring. Borrowing heavily from the shapes and aesthetics of the 80′s the collection looks set to bridge the gap between casual and formal wear.

Chester Barrie

Chester Barrie

Words & photographs by Louis Sheridan (Unless stated otherwise)
 

‘Tan Lines’ – exclusive Summer swimsuit editorial for FAULT Online

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Photographer: Kira Bucca
Stylist: Ikponmwosa Edorisiagbon
Stylist Assistant: Olimpia Compean
Make-up: Alayna Rakes for Dermalogica
Make-up Assistant: Lilia Martinez
Hair: Aleetha Clanton
Nails: Lady Fancy Nails
Model: Michelle @ Muse Model Management
Photographer Assistant: Tam Nguyen

‘Come in Peace’: Osman Ozel’s FAULT

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top : Balmain; tights :La Senza

 

 

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tshirt-dress : Atmosphere ;sunglasses: Six ; hat: New Era; sneakers: Adidas Originals by Jeremy Scott; accessories: belong to stylist

 

 

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dress : Junya Watanabe; shoes: Pinar Arkun; socks: belong to stylist; accessories: belong to stylist

 

 

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bomber jacket : Burberry; swimsuit: Alexander Wang; short : Vakkorama; accessories: belong to stylist

 

 

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top : Pe De Chumbo; leather short : Alexander Wang; sunglasses: Six; accessories: belong to stylist

Photographer: Osman Özel
Styling :Begüm Bilge
Hair: Sedat Karakas
Make-Up: M.Emin Çetinkaya
Photo Assistants:Murat Özbey & Volkan Akinci
Model: Dasha :Option Istanbul Model Management