Martin Garrix covers FAULT Issue 26 – available to order now

Martin Garrix was shot in Ibiza by photographer Eva Kruiper and styled by Rachel Holland exclusively for the front cover of FAULT Issue 26. Click here to pre-order your copy of this issue!

FAULT Issue 26 cover star Martin Garrix was shot by Eva Kruiper and styled by Rachel Holland. Click here to pre-order your copy of this issue!

Ten minutes into an hour-long conversation with Martin Garrix, it’s blindingly obvious that there’s something more simmering underneath the surface of what people now call ‘The World’s Number One DJ’.

If you dispel the chaos and sparks that surround him on a regular basis, you’re faced with a 21 year old who is wise beyond his years – maybe even too smart for his own good. Martin is the brain behind the songs that we’ve had stuck in our heads for the past years. He knows what we want to listen to before we do. Labeled as the top EDM DJ and a self-confessed computer nerd, Martin’s got it all figured out. What makes him tick though? We try to find out. Here’s Martin Garrix – FAULTs and all.

On the pressure that followed after ‘Animals’:

“I made ‘Animals’ as a club song. I couldn’t wait to play it live to like… 300 people at that time?! Next thing I knew everybody started playing it. And then the pressure followed. The label people were like – so when’s the follow up coming? I had no fucking clue. I had nothing.”

On maintaining his integrity as an EDM artist:

A lot of EDM artists go like – ah you’re a sell out. [After the radio success of ‘Animals’] It took me a really long time to get my credibility back in the club scene. I had to do a crazy amount of club songs. And radio people kept asking about new radio singles. I had to shoot them down every time until this year – when I started doing radio songs again.”

Martin wears looks by McQ by Alexander McQueen, Homme Plissé by Issey Miyake and more in the lavish ‘I Am On Top of the World’ penthouse suite at the stunning Ushuaïa Ibiza Beach Hotel in Ibiza

On his personality:

“Oh me? I’m just a nerd, a pure 100% computer nerd. And I’m always very happy. If you ask anybody – they’d just say that I’m a crazy person who always runs around with a big smile.”

How he handles the pressure of being in the public eye:

“At the end of the day, I have a responsibility to put songs out there for my fans – so you won’t really catch me drunk before a show. I do drink and go out with my friends, but I have some common sense not to Snapchat the whole thing, do you know what I mean?”

On his decision to launch STMPD RCRDS:

“I started my own label last year called STMPD RCDRS – just so I could do whatever I wanted and whenever I wanted it. Now nobody can tell me what I can and can’t release. Plus I really wanted to support new talent in the industry – but it’s nice that I’m able to do whatever I feel like.”

On “the naughtiest thing he’s ever done”:

“We were in Paraguay … We came back after doing a show and I really wanted to go for a swim. The swimming pool was shut and I had nowhere to go – apart from the small pool in the hotel lobby. It was more like a mini-fountain, totally part of the hotel décor, by the way.

“And I just went swimming in there. Which was more like lying on the floor playing with water ’cause it was about 10 cm deep!”

Click to order your copy of the issue today

 

FAULT MAGAZINE ISSUE 26 – THE MILLENNIAL ISSUE – IS AVAILABLE TO ORDER NOW

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‘Robotina’ – Exclusive FAULT Fashion Editorial

 

Photographer: Pablo Costano

Producer: Nacho Gimenez

Styling: Mariela Ortega

MUA: Luigi Chamorro

Model: Jessica Whitlow

Photographer Assit: Manuel Rojas

“Transient” – FAULT Magazine Exclusive Online Editorial

Photographer: Jack Eames
Stylist: Bernard Connolly
Hair: Darren Ambrose
Makeup: Kelly Sadler
Milkie@ Nevs
       Brynja@ Nevs 

FAULT Magazine London Collections: Men SS17 Round up

The “big guns” of London menswear: Burberry, Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen et al dominate press coverage of the bi-annual London Collections: Men, and the new rising stars of British menswear who truly drive the capitals creativity and break new boundaries in their gloriously subversive challenges to the status quo, are often overlooked. For SS17 we at Fault are going to celebrate the kings and queens of the London underground!
Chinese wunderkid Xander Zhou has garnered a cult following amongst the London menswear pack. His playful irreverence, fondness for Americana, and toying with the traditional notions of gender, makes every collection of his somewhat of a show stopper. This season Zhou moved further into androgynous territory with an ethereal collection that melded the soft with the hard. The key words were sex and rebellion, and bare skin was wrapped in chains, over which shirts billowed like gowns, and halter neck corset style tops blew us away. A subversive genius, the designer takes traditional menswear staples, and creates something that is completely the opposite. Zhou is creating a new urban uniform for the gender fluid generation; this is a revolution that is not going anywhere.
Young British designer Bobby Abbley is another master of subversion; his favourite toy is anything Disney. This season the designer took on Aladdin, and presented a colourful and fun yet strikingly powerful collection. It’s wearable sportswear that shouldn’t be wearable, but Abbley has a habit of doing the impossible; kids clothes for grown ups because deep down, aren’t we all Peter Pan and Wendys? A signature Abbley sweater with the face of ‘Genie’ was a welcome sight, as was the playful nod to Xtina’s ‘Genie in a bottle’; “Rub me the right way” emblazoned on one of the coats shown.
Matthew Miller is a designer who is stealthy, season by season, becoming the one to watch in London. He is the designer for this generation, a man who like his peers, is facing the torment and angst of modern life, and conveying that into powerful collections that are statements within themselves. For me, Miller was a punk poet this season, because that’s what this talented designers collections are; poetry in sartorial motion, with a punk message. He offered a refined take on the gender fluid mod uniform for which he is renowned, incorporating misfits, skinheads and rebels. These are the kids you wished you hung out with. He is unique in his ability to present a collection that is both aggressively anarchic, yet subtlety romantic; I mean who else would interpret acid washed denim with a screen-printed interpretation of John Constable’s A Study of Cloud and Sky?
Father and son duo Casely-Hayford continue to go from strength to strength, and SS17 was yet another tour de force! They are truly stars of British menswear who design eminently wearable collections touched with genius! Taking each of their most significant musical influences (rock and grime) the two seamlessly merged the diverse styling to create a beautifully tailored collection of exquisitely clashing separates that would make any man look like a king. This season also saw the introduction of some beautiful womenswear pieces, part of a new personal bespoke service.
 
Sibling made the bold move of combining their men’s and women’s collections (as did several other designers) this season, signalling a departure from LFW in favour of the ever growing LCM. The aces of knitwear did not disappoint: British beef and skin, skin, skin, and even some peek a boobies; the designer duo’s cheeky irreverent knitwear designs payed homage to 50’s Americana rockabilly looks, and the good old English seaside. Imagine the cast of Grease, in a seaside ‘caf’ Margate, and theres the picture postcard that Sibling presented for SS17. Oh and real men, wear crochet and lace! The designers took there post show bow sporting Remain tees voicing their support of continued Eu referendum ahead of the upcoming vote, and a double bravo for the show soundtrack inclusion of Mariah’s ‘Fantasy’ both apt, and it had the whole audiences heads bopping!
The dark lords of British fashion: the inimitable KTZ,once again took over the notorious XXL club (if only the frow guests knew exactly just what had gone on in that space the night before!) to deliver a very wearable collection of their signature warrior goth wear. It was a more wearable collection this season, again offering their take on the post modern dystopian uniform. which drew inspiration from “dark futurism of interstellar science fiction and romanticism of celestial maps” – looked as if it payed homage to the underground rave scene of Berlin, as leather, PVC and Nylon arrived in abundance, styled alongside harnesses and chains, which added a signature element of fetishism to the collection. Hooded boys in seriously sinister embellished masks set the tone, and we even saw, brilliantly: leather skirts and dresses. KTZ also offered up their take on the lux sportswear/ lad look with baggy football style shorts and bomber jackets emblazoned with star cut outs. Oh and we must make mention of those metallic shades! KTZ again showed London and the world, why they are at the top of their game, and lead the way for the new aesthetic in men’s fashion.
 
Liam Hodges is one of the London designers flying not so quietly under the radar. His deconstructionalist designs, like those of Alex Mullins, challenge the ways in which we view traditional menswear and the accepted sartorial norms. Collaborating with famed American workwear brand Dickies, Hodges presented a mash up of 90’s hip hop styles and sporty streetwear, that he then reinterpreted that into sturdy, and very masculine workwear.. Hodges is designer who manages to do the impossible and make what shouldn’t theoretically work, werk! The “Im OK” message emblazoned on certain pieces was a cute finishing touch; perhaps a nod to The Simpsons misfit Ralph?
 
 
We took time to deliberate on the best of the brightest up and comers and the aforementioned designers are the ones to truly watch in London. We were honoured to view their collections and watch their stock rising!
 
Words: Ian Michael Turner

‘Classic Bloom’- FAULT Magazine Online Editorial, Benjo Arwas’ FAULT

 

 

Photographer: Benjo Arwas

Model: Avery Tharp @ Photogenics LA

Stylist: Eddie Schachnow @ Art Department, LA

Makeup: Nicole Chew @ Art Department, LA using MAC Cosmetics

Hair: Abraham Esparza using R and CO

LC:M JANUARY ’16, DAY 3: THE FAULT AW16 DAILY EDIT

The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Collection Men. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram

Christopher Raeburn

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Photography: Karyn Louise

Inspired once again by the untouched wilderness of Mongolia, Christopher Raeburn‘s vision for AW16 was ruggedly masculine. In hues that reflected the Mongolian steppes and the traditional dress of those who inhabit it, this sturdy collection was also well suited for such environment: classic menswear and miltary staples reinterpreted by Raeburn‘s unique creative vision to form his most wearable collection to date. We particularly loved the deep red duffel coat with matching chunky scarf, neat bomber javkets, the cheetah sweaters, ‘camouflage’ bags that matched the outerwear, and the footwear; part of Raeburn‘s continued collaboration with British footwear brand Clarks; roll on February (launch date)!
Raeburn in his still young career has become an institution to many of the fashion pack, and amongst men in general his sustainably crafted menswear has quickly garnered cult following. It is not hard to see why: his signature parkas and ponchos, chunky knits and his collected animal ‘totems represent for many the great adventures of old, tales and stories we grew up on as boys and still hanker for now as men; we alll wanted to be Mowgli or Scott of the Antarctic, and for most of us Christopher Raeburn is as close as we will ever actually get!

Words: Ian Michael Turner

 

Duchamp

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Ever wondered what it takes to dress the Duchamp way? Well you’re in luck as this season the intrepid brand has launched a collection founded on their fundamental dress codes for the London man. Winter Florals, Creative Business, Tonal Layers, Innovative Textures and Artistic Features outline the five key elements to creating the cardinal Duchamp look. Printed silk shirts, woven cocktail jackets and contemporary wool suits set a precedent for an ultramodern and artful take on traditional city wear with a reassuring palette of tonal colours from rosewood to light azure blue. At it’s core, the collection plays with the idea of contrasting components; layering clean cottons with dense, woolen jackets and pencil sketch prints with bold graphic stripes, the innovative and diverse range of fabrication and texture allows for a novel approach to cultured tailoring. Renowned for their directional approach to menswear, AW16 sees Duchamp step up their design philosophy to reflect the spirit of now and the lives of modern, city men.

Words: Sarah Young 

 

Chester Barrie

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Chester Barrie suffused an air of Hollywood’s golden age for AW16 as timeless looks become artfully updated with a rush of modernity. Held at the idyllic Waldorf Hotel in Aldwych, the ultimate modern tailor brought serious red carpet glamour in reverence of the best-dressed men to ever grace the silver screen. Integrating traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary eye, Chester Barrie creates a collection bound by woven cloths, luxury detailing and rich, sumptuous textures. Definitive pieces including the classic dinner suit and cocktail jacket are lavishly updated with navy silk and sumptuous green velvet whilst dramatic peak lapels and shawl collars provide additional depth. Taking the modern man from day to night, each piece guarantees the wearer will look their very best; be it on the red carpet or in the boardroom this is Savile Row tailoring as you’ve never seen it before. For Chester Barrie, AW16 all about breathing new life into menswear staples as the brand uphold their position as the modern tailor for the modern man.

Words: Sarah Young  

Alexander McQueen

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We’ve come to expect nothing less than absolute drama from McQueen, and the AW16 men’s collection handed it to us gladly. Set in stunning surroundings, a live pianist played out into the darkness before the presentation began and atmospheric, deep and dark music filled the room.

Gaunt and pale, hollow-cheeked models, complete with safety pin piercings puncturing their faces, drifted down the catwalk in a macabre collection that conjured up imagery of Victorian vampires and darkest fantasies.

Military and Victorian-inspired silhouettes filled the runway, with theatrical long coats, complete with velvet patchwork, bejewelled embellishments or glitzy brocade, contrasting against the bright white shell-toe trainers they were paired with.

Silver metal chains adorned the outfits and the metallic theme weaved in amongst the presentation for a faded Baroque glamour; antique gold sequins in paisley patterns festooned jackets but dissolved away towards the hips, as if they had disintegrated and worn away over time.

Neat, sharp shoulders were prevalent, and a romantic butterfly motif occurred time and again throughout the collection. Butterflies and moths were embroidered across camel coats, woven into monochrome skinny-fit suits and made their way onto the lapels of slim officer-style coats, hinting at the Darwinian theme present throughout. Fossils were also drawn onto onto oversize silk, and big, blowsy florals were present on velvet coats and slim suits, again leading us back into the true romance of this collection.

A simple colour palette of black, white, camel, oxblood and scarlet dominated, with the hints of silver and gold flashing throughout. A gothic masterpiece, intimating faded romanticism and worn-out beauty, with the bold stroke of drama that we adore from McQueen.

Words: Laura Hudson

Moschino

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It’s been two years since Jeremy Scott was appointed creative director and Moschino, and he’s taken great strides in taking the house to new heights. The AW16 men’s collection didn’t disappoint, and may just prove to be one of the weekend’s biggest talking points.

Sending out a collection packed with references to the 1980s, pop art, punk and comic books, Scott’s Moschino was a riot of colour and craziness. Added to the mix was the addition of a flurry of female models too, including Jourdan Dunn and Ruth Bell, presumably in a move to celebrate gender fluidity and freedom.

Skinny-fit suits in a blaze of colours, from magenta pink and electric blue to multi-coloured prints, stormed the runway complete with a heavy dusting of black shading and paired with matching sunglasses and contrasting accessories. These looks especially were reminiscent of 80s’ David Bowie and comic-book villains of days gone by, finished with streaks of powdery brights in the hair and residue staining the ears of models.

Double denim was taken to new extremes with acid shades and cartoonish whiskers drawn on for a ‘worn-in’ effect, paired with scribbled-on Doc Martens too.

Punk vibes were referenced too, with coloured crucifixes adorning oversized bombers and slouchy tees, and pleated half-skirts made to look like checked flannel shirts tied around the waist – all in a riot of acid bright shades, of course.

Moschino’s take on AW16 is certainly one we’ll remember – and one the whole team will be shopping at too.

Words: Laura Hudson

 

 

Turnbull & Asser

Photography: Jon Payne

Photography: Jon Payne

Turning to preeminent literature for inspiration including George Orwell’s ‘1984’, Ayn Rand’s ‘The Fountain Head’ and Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde’, for Turnbull & Asser, AW16 centers on two conflicting protagonists; ‘The Artist’ and ‘The Architect’. Despite creating a collection bound by conflictions, the insightful brand has managed to construct a seamlessly balanced aesthetic that skillfully juxtaposes key elements from each of its characters. ‘The Artist’ provides colourful chaos through wild paint stroke jacquards and an eclectic palette of electric indigo and soft magenta whilst ‘The Architect’ deftly mutes its counterpart with schematic motifs in stripped-back monochrome and moody navy. Taking contemporary tailoring to the next level, Turnbull & Asser disregard the homogenous suit in favor of creative flair.

Words: Sarah Young 

 

KTZ

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KTZ’s Majan Pejowski is of that rare breed of fashion designers who has managed to garner a devoted following that is a subculture in itself. For AW16 he stepped away from his neo gothic aesthetic slightly by injecting it with hard and hevy dose of Americana; the collection was all about American sports and the culture that surrounds them.

KTZ collections often ‘follow on’ from previous seasons, showing a stylistic journey as it happens: reflecting and building upon the aesthetics of past collections like SS16 for example which payed an homage to iconic movie the Warriors and the baseball uniforms; the stitching of a baseball was a common denominator on many of the looks shown for Aw16. The signature KTZ icons were replaced with slogans and sports style emblems and bright pageantry colours of American sports teams ran through out; black was present and correct but far less this season, baseball bats and sporting helmets added a sinister aspect that heightened the collections tough and ready aesthetic.
What was perhaps most interesting about the collection, given the current polital state of affairs in the US was the seeming and pertinet message the collection gave. Amidst this most excellent exercise in the subversion of American culture, were the militaristic accents applied to many looks; in US Airforce’s shooting star emblem was applied to collars, rendering them similar in look to Nazi uniforms. It was it appeared, comment upon the popular current World view coming out of the US: anti-immigration, Islamaphobia, the power of the ‘Police State’, and the horror of a potential President Trump.. The proud  prescence of the Union Jack during the final looks seemed a fitting conclusion, a statement that one place will always remain a bastion of freedom and creativity. Bravo KTZ!

Words: Ian Michael Turner

 

FAULT Reviews – Alexander McQueen SS16

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Spring/Summer is always a strange season for a label like McQueen – one that is so rooted in a dark, sumptuous, and often harsh aesthetic, seemingly at odds with visions of light linens and the beach. For SS16, Sarah Burton cast her models into the ocean, drawing upon military uniform and maritime imagery reworked into a vision of captain coats and nautical stripes that spoke to Victoriana (and occasionally Tim Burton.) Models had their hair wet and bedraggled, with faces deathly pale, as if we were watching a procession of fallen sailors, returned from the depths (and perhaps the clutches of a mermaid.) The tailoring was impeccable as ever, with sharp cuts, elongated hemlines and rigid structure. Anchors and compass points were applied without seeming kitsch or retro, worked onto white fabric in a chalky blue as if on Wedgwood China. It was this softness that was most intriguing – with pyjama-inspired suits, sashed at the waist. Dazzle camouflage took a few of the looks in a different direction, seeming almost to speak to a Seventies aesthetic but overall, this collection was charming in its soft Romanticism.
Words: Will Ballantyne-Reid

Alexander McQueen fever is officially in the air.

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‘Inferno: Alexander McQueen’ by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey

Five years after his untimely death, London is celebrating this genius London talent with two major exhibitions (‘Savage Beauty’ at the V & A and Nick Waplington’s ‘Woking Progress’ at the Tate Britain), alongside the stunning picture book ‘Inferno’ by Kent Baker and words by Melanie Rickey.

Focussing on one show- the breakout AW 1996 ‘Dante’, described as groundbreaking couture meets club culture, which took place at a Crypt in the midst of Jack the Ripper’s killing ground on a freezing March evening, in East London.

The venue in itself set the scene for mystery and intrigue, and the off the beaten track show was bound to be controversial with the fashpack who were keen to see what was next from the inventive young designer.

Coffee table book ‘Inferno’ is an insider’s view of that night. It showcases exclusive, intimate behind the scenes photographs, as viewed from the lens of fashion photographer Kent Baker; After meeting Lee through mutual friends, he casually asked if he could take document the evening, not imagining he would say yes!

The infamous show, set in the apparently haunted venue of Christ Church in Spitalfields, complete with skeleton on the front row, has never been re-created, but you can now see for yourself the buzz and excitement of the show preparation, unseen portraits, model shots, hissy fits and the master at work.

With words by fashion journalist Melanie Rickey, Lee’s peers, his ex, the creative teams, and models that walked for him, all tell their version of what it was like to know and work with the legend on the show. High energy, raw, dramatic, are all phrases that crop up time and time again, alongside tales of the freaky vibe, dark spirits and electricity, which make the anecdotes worth their weight in gold.

Known for always pushing the boundaries in fashion and production, this show was bound to be remembered- as a performance as well as the designs. With Lee once stating “You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for”

This is a book for everyone that agrees with that, and can appreciate couture, and a dark, thoughtful visionary. Long live that sentiment. Even now you’re gone.

By Sara Darling

Inferno: Alexander McQueen by Kent Baker and Melanie Rickey is published by Laurence King Publishing in March, available from www.laurenceking.com

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