LFWM: SS18 QASIMI REVIEW

The shadows of the cast walking behind the translucent sheet on set offered an ominous presence, which set the tone for the Qasimi SS18 presentation. With looks of intent explorers, models stormed onto the stage in a dusty colour palette wearing loose silhouettes, making us feel as if we were in a desert of nylon. “Yearning for simpler times in response to today’s bombardment of information and technology” Qasimi’s ‘FREEFALL’ collection was inspired by the Boudin tribes of the Middle East. The desert dwellers were clad in sun-baked hues of dusty pinks, yellows, oranges and khaki.

Using modern military parachute fabrics, the collection was a comfortable uniform that fused together traditional craftsmanship with modern tech. There were ruched detailing, drawstrings, two-way zips and pockets with an abundance of space. Cargo pants, lightweight bomber jackets and drawstring sacks were the accessory, which make us think that this is just as practical for the average London commuter as well as the nomadic tribes recalled in this presentation.

Words: Lizzie Griffin

LFWM: SS18 PHOEBE ENGLISH MAN REVIEW

Laboured construction was the vibe at the Phoebe English Man presentation, where the collection seemed to naturally re-invent the meaning of casual menswear. Functionality overtook decoration as the concept was based upon the development of textiles and finishes and being mindful with fabrics. Using natural fibres, the collection featured canvas linens, lightweight cottons and comfy denim. The clothing evoked a utilitarian feel, shirt dresses, loose joggers and button shirts were displayed in sky blues and grassy greens and worn in boxy layers. Outerwear that looked durable to the eye came in the form of loose fitting trench coats and collarless long bomber jackets. The clothes almost looked clinical, yet were toughened up with oversized seams, externally visible on the minimal striped jumpers and sandy cropped shorts. The models were accessorised with slouching backpacks, workman boots and thick sock and stood moulding pottery from lumps of clay to truly show the refreshing practically and ease of the collection- even if it looked like a solo scene from Ghost.

Words: Sarah Barnes

LFWM: LIAM HODGES SS18 REVIEW

British born Liam Hodges showcased a collection of signature wide tailoring, patchwork layering and sculpted faces. This seasons show depicted a expressive masculinity, keeping the label a must for the mad and bad. With the concept and inspiration being taken from the constant noise we are exposed to in society, the collection mirrored back with models storming the catwalk with a stylist aggression- not a glimmer of weakness to be seen. Sportswear, street wear and punk references moulded a collection of tracksuits in shades of blue, pink and khaki. Oversized jumpers disregarded ‘normal’ proportions and yellow camouflage jackets hung of models with a sense of purpose. Quilted jackets and caramel trench coats were harshly decorated with black markings, reminiscent of military uniforms. The show was accessorised with accents of orange and slogan black bags that hung cross body, only to be toped off with leather aviator hats. Screaming mouths were painted over the models own to symbolise the one big emotion Hodges needed to express. While a mascot of a bear with a grimacing face made its way down the runway, a parting reminder that bears are not always cute and cuddly and that this collection was for the generation who will not be silenced.

Words: Sarah Barnes

Cannes Designer Watch 2017: Stars Stun In Saint Laurent Winter Collection

Amanda Steele – FAULT Magazine’s Future Face Of Fashion

Despite being only seventeen Amanda Steele has already created quite the storm within the fashion industry. Despite her young age, Steele epitomises everything it means to be a model in the current industry. With a strong fan base within and outside of the industry it’s clear that Amanda has all the tools and business know how to become not only a great model but a brand within herself. FAULT Issue 25 features Amanda as our Future Face Of Fashion FAULT with a special FAULT Focus Cover Shoot. Please enjoy the preview below featuring  Alexander Wang, Balmain, Christian Louboutin and much more.

See the full shoot in print & digital editions of FAULT Magazine issue 25!

Byline: Miles Holder

Photography by Nelson Blanton | Styling by Sammy K Makeup by Anthony Merante | Hairstyling by Kristin Heitkotter Thanks to Apex Photo Studios for use of their location

 

 

 

 

 

NYFW HIGHLIGHTS | BERENIK

The Berenik Autumn/Winter 17 presentation definitely made its impact on fashion week with one of the most cohesive and natural RTW collections to be seen. The first thing the super cool Swiss creative, artist and designer did right was choosing Pier 59 Studio space to put on a fashion art performance. This seems to be the latest cult craze in the fashion world, whether it be showcased at Pier 59 Studios or Skylight Clarkson.

Pier 59 is the ideal location for any visionary, with nothing but plenty of open space and opportunity. Veronika Brusa, Berenik Creative Director/Designer was able to create a powerful energy by mass producing original artwork against the backdrop of the seemingly endless white walls, LORDE’s thumping “TEAM” in the background and a room full of creative movers and shakers, physically and figuratively speaking. I felt like I was in a perfect utopian bubble where everyone worked together, moved together, danced together or even stood still together in oversized wool knits and cozy yet loose fitting ensembles.


The power of community and connection seemed to be the underlying current of the night. The dancers were models, the models were actors, but they were all one in the same which was really interesting to watch the energy flow from one human being to the next.


Veronika didn’t shy away from the prints and wearable art pieces which is one of the reasons why the brand is so popular amongst street kids and art schoolers, who were enthralled by the art fashion presentation. “We all want to be connected,” Veronika said during a brief interview I had with her before the show. You could definitely see that the current state of world affairs played a major role in this collection. Art…fashion, should reflect the times and that’s exactly what The Berenik show felt like; a foreshadowed alternative from the apocalyptic state of how things are, to this dream-like state where all the problems of the human existence were solved by coming together for the greater good of the whole. The color palette for any minimalist of course was neutral with pops of wearable art like printed shirts, bomber jackets and short shorts. The fabrics were oversized and thick and free forming, which I’m sure was for the purpose of creating these utilitarian inspired designs. In short, there is a freedom of evolution and release significantly symbolized by Berenik’s talented representation and reveal of the garb we choose to wear upon our backs.

Words: Seth Heru | Images: The Bromley Group

HTGAWM’s Jack Falahee discusses lessons learnt from the LGBTQ community in FAULT Issue 25

 

Photography by Joseph Sinclair
Styling by Angel Terrazas
Grooming by Mishelle Parry at Celestine Agency

Jack Falahee ‘Playing Connor | Finding Jack’

Words: Miles Holder

How To Get Away With Murder first appeared on our screens in 2014 and is to this day one of America’s most progressive and expertly written television dramas. Oscar award winning actress, Viola Davis stars as the powerful, female, African-American lawyer without a defined sexuality nor reason to explain one. As an African American female actress, she will no-doubt have faced similar prejudices to that of the character she plays; however the same can not be said for the whole cast. Enter, Jack Falahee. Despite years of training at prestigious acting schools, it was the role of a homosexual college student, Connor Walsh that would provide Jack with a clear and untilfiltered glimpse into the LGBTQ community. It’s a credit to Jack’s skills as an actor, that Connor’s character and his sometimes turbulent relationship with his HIV-positive boyfriend have created strong discussions within and outside of the LGBTQ community. With that in mind, I sat down with Jack to find out what the character that means so much to so many different people – means to him.

You’ve got an impressive resume – you’ve studied so many different acting methods, what is it about television and the screen that mean you’ve gone down that route?

When I was at NYU I was originally admitted to study musical theatre but when I started hanging out with kids who had grown up with ballet classes and vocal coaches, I quickly realised I was a bit out of my depths. If I felt that way in a class of forty students, then going to an open audition for a broadway show was going to be a nightmare; and it was and I was cut very quickly.

I went to Amsterdam and studied the experimental theatre and then Shakespeare in the States but when I got into television acting, I was really inspired by the technical side of it. I grew up enjoying movies but when I started studying it I became aware of angles, what “the shot” was and just everything that is done to make a screenplay come to life. That really fascinated me and will likely lead to me producing and directing in my future.

What period of Connor’s character resonated with you the most?

Fundamentally he and I are very competitive and also very jealous people – it’s something which I’m personally working on but I don’t think Connor is! I grew up with 3 siblings and 2 brothers who are all wildly brilliant and whilst it was a house full of love, it was also incredibly competitive so I definitely relate to Connor in that way.

When you first got the role, did you think the show would have such an impact?

Frankly, you’re not thinking about that when you’re a struggling actor; you’re thinking about getting a job so you can pay rent and survive so I never really sat down and considered I’d be spending years of my life on the project.

I’m still not over how the much of an impact the show has made and a lot of that is Connor’s character and his importance to fans. It’s emblematic of my straight privilege, but I never thought his character would be so important to the LGBTQ community. When the finale came out and Oliver proposed to Connor, seeing the Twitter reaction was so overwhelming and I was just overjoyed at how meaningful the character is to people.

What are the best lessons you’ve learnt from your fans?

100% opening my eyes to the LGBTQ struggle and I can’t stress that enough. Going into this, it was never written on the page that “Connor Walsh is a homosexual”; so when it came to the first love scene I just thought, “wow this guy is willing to do whatever it takes to get ahead” and now I know that was the heteronormativity in my mind back then that was rationalising this whole aspect of his character. It wasn’t until Pete Nowalk was like “oh no, Connor is gay” that I’ve been really trying to become a student of the history of LGBTQ rights and learning more about the struggle of those in the past and in the present day.  I asked Pete and my friends for a reading list on LGBTQ history because one of my favourite aspects about being an actor is that I’m continually having to learn about things I’ve been very uneducated on in the past. I’ve grown up with friends and family who aren’t straight white males so it was important for me  to do Connor’s character justice. The outpouring of love from the fans was so gratifying and humbling for me. Receiving messages from fans saying “Connor & Oliver helped me come out to my parents” is deeply rewarding and to be any small part of the courage needed to come out will forever be a blessing to me.

Are you comfortable with your sex symbol status?

No! Well, it depends [laughs]. I go back and forth on this, on one hand, it’s a great boost to my confidence but on the other hand, it’s a very vulnerable thing to be. Women live their lives being objectified and reduced to just their bodies every day and it is awful so I’ve been discussing it with the women close to me. I obviously can never understand how women can go through life that way but I can see a glimpse of what that experience might feel like and it’s not a nice one.

Nine times out of ten, it’s all good fun and nice things are being said but that 10% of the time when people disregard my space or my wellbeing is not okay. People tell me “that’s what you signed up for” and I really don’t think it is! I was this chubby, awkward kid and now I’m a sex symbol with the help of great makeup and lighting experts making me look a certain way on tv and magazines.

What is FAULT?

I think that there is a part of me which is always seeking validation which is very informative of why I’ve become an actor; regardless of what might happen, I think I’ll always be seeking approval.

Read Jack’s full interview and see more exclusive photographs only in FAULT’s Special #25

AVAILABLE TO PRE-ORDER NOW

Kehlani: Focused, Fashionable and FAULTY in FAULT Magazine #25 Covershoot

 

Photography by Jacob Hodgkinson
Styling by Rachel Holland
Makeup by Nicky Weir
Hairstyling by Stefan Bertin
Styling assistance by Ines Oom, Tara Theiss & Stephanie – Min Hua Choo

Kehlani – ‘A Rise With Grace’

Words: Miles Holder

The rise of Kehlani hasn’t been an easy one; at every stage in her career she has been given a new cross to bear or obstacle to climb but despite all her hardships, she has always emerged triumphant. Releasing her critically acclaimed debut album ‘SweetSexySavage’ in January 2017 and currently on her highly rated world tour, while it’s been a long time coming, it would seem that Kehlani is finally seeing the fruits of her many years of hard labour. Speaking with a delicate manner but a hardened confidence far beyond her 21 years of age, we sat down to find out more about one of R&B’s most exciting artists.

Looking back, were you happy with how your album did?

I think it was really good for the time that it came out. There was a lot of negative commotion happening especially in my country with the US election so I think that something easy and positive was definitely needed at that time.

You air your personal feelings and fears out there on the album, is it hard to expose so much emotion for the world to hear?

With me, it’s all or nothing; go hard or go home. We all as know what’s really going on and people will feel it if it’s not really me on the track. I want to make people feel through my music – we all put up with fake shit all the time so I wanted to contribute something that’s the real me.

Music has always been your life and it’s something you’ve been working on for so long, did that not put a lot of pressure on you to succeed when dropping new music?

For me, the pressure doesn’t come from outside people, it’s all what I put on myself in the creative process. I’m asking myself “Could I hit that note better” or “should I shift beats differently”, but I’m not thinking about the sales-numbers because that doesn’t really matter. I just worry about making sure whatever I’m working on is a better project than the last.

How do you deal with the pressure of all the show business?

I’m doing so much that I never have time to really stop and think about it all. I don’t have the focus and it’s hard to manage but at the end of the day, it’s got to get done! Ain’t non of this shit easy for anyone.

What advice would you give to your younger self?

I’d tell myself to just stay focused and get as much rest as you can because you’re about to turn up! [laughs] But seriously, I’d tell myself to learn how to prioritise myself and to learn how to protect my energy. If I had entered the industry with more knowledge on self, how to protect myself and emotional take care of my life then things would have been much easier.

Being a sensitive, open and loving person has definitely led to some downfalls but I do wish I’d learnt some emotional grounding as a kid but I don’t beat myself up about it because it’s hard and most people don’t even learn half of that until they’re old.

When you shut your eyes and you think of your perfect future, what is it?

I want to be a mum. I want to have my kids and just settle down. If I keep going as fast as I’ve been going, I’m going to be over it and it’ll be time for the quiet life one day.

What’s your message to all young people out there who might have gone through or are going through the same struggles you have?

Don’t let the world discourage you or let the things that weigh on your shoulders crush you. Know that for me, it’s really hard and as a woman especially because we’re so caring and we have large hearts which make us want to fix the unfixable and carry a weight too large to bear. I just hope everyone out there knows to just breathe through it and to take everything at their own pace. Most importantly, people should never forget to take care of themselves.

What is your FAULT?

I don’t know how to answer that because I’m so human and I never stop to imagine that I’d only ever have one fault. We all have FAULTs, being twenty-one-years-old reminds me that I’m human because I’m pretty sure I have a fuck up every single day. I can’t think of just one thing -that’s my FAULT.

Read Kehlani’s full interview and see more exclusive photographs only in FAULT’s Special #25

AVAILABLE TO PRE-ORDER NOW