FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS PPQ AW17

A collection aptly named ‘It’s Very Black and White’, designer duo Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker weren’t wanting to disappoint this season. Perhaps it’s because the duo are usually known for their bold prints and vivid colours (their AW16 collection was a wild spectrum of colour), that they thought it best to plainly put things in black and white from the offset as to not give any false hope.

Set at the Crypt on the Green in London with a live DJ playing beat techno music, the atmosphere couldn’t have felt more true to PPQ’s roots. The underground vibe helped to set the collection within the label’s beginnings in London subculture and continuously refers to this collaboration between fashion and music that is at the heart of their designs (PPQ also run a record label, 1-2-3-4 Records).

Having a monochrome palette throughout allowed for a more in-depth exploration and play with texture, lines and fabrics. White fur trimming was seen a lot around necks and sleeves alongside black feathers that were found stuck in the models hair. Tartan prints and horizontal stripes made the collection have a slight grunge feel to it that was set against the flamboyance of luxurious fabrics such as velvet, satin and tweed to help keep you warm during the colder months.

All looks were paired with Adidas Gazelle Shoes in black and white (what else?) which helped to reinforce the relaxed street vibe mixed with old school glam that saw throughout the collection, putting a modern spin on classic looks. Which only leaves me to ask, can be black be considered a colour yet?

Words: Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Fyodor Golan AW17

In respect of the events of last year, it should come as no surprise that designers are using slogans to make bold and empowering statements on the catwalk this season. ‘Don’t Call Me Princess’ is perhaps the perfect example of the type of woman who designer duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman had in mind when designing their AW17 collection.

Celebrating their 5th anniversary since debuting their first collection in 2011, this collection didn’t hold back the celebrations with explosions of colour, print and the mixing of plastic, cotton and denim materials that were revealed through interesting cut outs, showcasing the duo’s signature experimental cuts through the intricate layering of pieces.

Starting out with minimal and simplistic pieces, things quickly escalated to the collections bold wash of rainbow colour citing the Power Puff girls and German large scale spray paint artist Katharine Groose as an inspiration for the explosion of colour in a nostalgic, 90s watercolour fade.

The stand out item from the show was by far the introduction of the Post-It note. Cut into geometric shapes and stuck on leopard print coats, dresses and shoes or stuck onto plastic skirts with reminders to give ‘more love’, this show was boldly optimistic and a written note reminder that ‘girl power’ is here to stay.

Words: Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Eudon Choi AW17

The master of tailoring, Eudon Choi, didn’t fail to disappoint yet again this year with a collection rooted in his precise tailoring and penchant for detail.

Kicking off the first day of Fashion Week, Choi set the tone for the masculine relaxed tailoring that we saw many designers follow in the succeeding days. Starting off with monochromatic looks -made up of crisp white cotton shirts, grey wide leg trousers and smock dresses – the collection soon transitioned to varying shades of olive khaki, muted orange and cornflower blue.

This season, Choi was influenced by the Austrian/Czech architect Adolf Loo, suitably a pioneer of the modernist movement a.k.a minimalism. In particular, Loo’s essay ‘Ornament and Crime’ was a heavy influence on this collection, taking his idea of removing ornament from everyday objects to produce a series of looks that were simply striking in their natural materials.

His beginnings in menswear were clear in this collection, showcasing his sharp, clean tailored looks against more relaxed and oversized trousers, coats and dresses. His feminine touch was found in small stylistic details such as large gold buttons down the side of trousers, D-Rings with long straps that added movement and fluidity to structured jackets and the odd satin dress in pale pink. All in all, a collection that looked elegantly effortless yet required great attention to detail.

Words: Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Bora Asku AW17

This Autumn/Winter, Bora Asku offered us his version of the feminist movement. Invitations depicted the 20th Century feminists holding up signs that shouted ‘peace’ and ‘freedom’, to which we later saw in person on the sleeves, collars and cuffs of the modern feminist women who walked down the catwalk.

It is perhaps of no surprise then that the collection was dedicated to Princess Sophia Duleep Singh, a dedicated active member of the British Suffragette movement. There was certainly an air of romanticism in his love letter to Sophia that ran throughout the collection, with Vintage-look dresses that were adorned with layers upon layers of frills, lace and ribbon. Yet the freedom of movement that the loose fit allowed was juxtaposed against heavy, black uniform boots that harshly stood out against the dominating pastel colour palette. Equally, playing with the duality of Sophia’s character that was both hardworking, whilst still retaining a bit of that girlish femininity.

Staying true to his vision of the Asku girl, this demi-couture collection was both seductive and intriguing, assertive yet innocent. A reminder to the 21st Century Woman that you can still dress feminine and be a feminist.

Words: Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS DAKS AW17

Renowned for being everything that is quintessentially English, this AW17 the DAKS ‘Savile Row Woman’ was given an urban edge.

The characteristically British herringbone, Prince of Wales check and houndstooth design were strong prints throughout the collection that also featured the ‘Daks Club Flannel’ in collaboration with Fox Brothers. Relaxed tailoring was also a strong feature here, making an appearance across many shows during LFW,  with classic menswear tailoring being mixed against softer, feminine shapes.

The London Sky hues were the source of inspiration for the colour palette, with the expected forecast of cloudy greys offset against accents of sliver piping, royal blue stones and pink florals to add a romantic and womanly touch.

To sum up, the DAKS woman exuded an effortless elegance this season. Coats were hung leisurely over the shoulders and trousers were kept baggy and oversized, rolled up to reveal a bare ankle. Tailored co-ord trousers and coats were worn with grey beanie hats, broken up with shirts in contrasting patterns. It almost felt as if all that was needed to complete the look was a grande Starbucks coffee to go and suddenly, any modern woman is prepared to face the pressures of modern day life in both style and comfort.

Words: Heather Ibberson

NY MFW FW17 HIGHLIGHTS | STEVE AOKI X DIM MAK COLLECTION

Steve Aoki put on quite a production with his Dim Mak collection. Professional skateboarders replaced models and showcased a runway with a half-pipe. The atmosphere was charged with high energy as the band flooded the room with music and skateboarders took to the stage. A mix of cool streetwear and skater style electrified the entire room.

Words + Photographer: Mikah James

FAULKNER X THE NYLON PROJECT

Eric Scullin, Lucas Asher, Dimitri Farougias, Christian Hogan

Revolutionary transcendent music with a borderless echoing frame of vibrational change, FAULT presents to you, FAULKNER. An instant draw of curiosity with an embedded foundational name, this talented mix of East and West coast four rocked statements of awareness as they joined The Nylon Project kicking off New York Fashion Week. Founded by Jordana Guimaraes, The Nylon Project refreshes and reminds us of the daily unrelenting flashes of homelessness and the pressing needs of those without on our New York City streets. The united collaboration and substantial support of fashion and celebrity influencers such as FAULKNER and Christina Milian are continuously and actively working to highlight this urgency and raise funds to donate 1,500 meals by February’s end. The leading and resonating campaign, “It Can Be You,” undoubtedly reels you in and speaks to every one of us. It plays true, cautioning us indeed, “It Can Be You” as you will find and see as we took the time to sit and chat with lead singer, guitar and songwriter Lucas Asher of FAULKNER post performance and runway show.

Educate us a bit on your origins and the band’s.

I was in Dumbo area, I’m a New Yorker but then I went to L.A. cuz I hooked up with RZA from the The Wu.

 

How did you hook up with RZA from The Wu?

I just hustled him, I hit him up like everyday for like half a year and then he finally reached out and was like, “Yo kid send me a track.” And then I sent him a joint called “New York Anthem” and he liked it and so we worked on it at Rick Rubin’s Studio and then the New York Yankees started playing it at all their home games. And then it just went from there.

 

How did you link up with the rest of the guys?

In L.A. I’m the New Yorker, they’re the L.A. guys.

 

So have you guys known each other for long?

Three years. Good chemistry though, ya.

 

What does Faulkner mean? Does it have any relation to the writer?

No, no relation to the writer. I’ve been to 30 countries and I was in Egypt and there was a shaman and he told me to name my band FAULKNER. He said it would be successful and to be honest its going pretty good so far.

 

In this journey, have you always wanted to do music? 

Always, always music. And I listen to a lot of hip hop because of the aspirational qualities to it. And that’s why I’m part of The Nylon Project, just cuz I was homeless at one point. And I’ve always just been a hustler, and just gotten stuff done. And so I always was just the kid listening to hip hop, like a hip hop madden and stuff, and now I play in a rock band, so it’s an irony.

 

What do you feel, with everything that is going on now and that we are facing, what do you hope to do with your music as far as reaching people and especially where you’ve been through and you’ve been in that position, what do you want to translate to people? 

Be an aspirational band that people can believe in. Because we came from the streets. You know And now we’re living our dreams finally, the world, working with the Wu Tang Clan. So just believe in your dreams and the aspirational of quality there’s so much negativity in the world. We just want to focus on the positive.

 

 

What are you influences as far as music aside from Wu Tang, and hip hop and specific fashion and music influences?

David Bowie, for me it’s James Dean too. I think red jackets and rebels, even Eddie Murphy had that red jacket. To me when I walk into a room and see someone in a red jacket I assume their the rebel in the room, and so that’s kinda what it represents to me, is rebellion. So ya, I love fashion, I’m always in L.A. on Melrose or in Soho looking at cool new and upcoming designers. There’s this designer in Soho called Miguel that I really love right now, he has this little shop in Soho.

 

What is he known for?

Like Mandarin collars, Asian influences. Ya, he’s dope. But I love discovering like boutique cool designers.

 

Always supporting everyone who is coming up.

Ya, ya. So musically other than hip hop, is Freddie Mercury and David Bowie probably.

 

What is the first thing you think about when you wake up and the last thing on your mind before you go to sleep?

First thing, I usually meditate and get into warrior mode. Cuz everyday I see it’s just like, “Let’s get it.” I usually do a quick meditation and then get into warrior beast mode and kick it off.

 

What is your FAULT? 

I think I invest so much in people and my art. I just I pour everything I have into it and when you do that and it’s the wrong person…or something, you’ve got a lot invested in that.

 

I guess that is something that everybody in the artistic realm goes through. You’re going to end up investing in people and it is the heart you have as well.

Ya, you got to go for it all the way.

 

Do you have anything you want to add? About moving forward or this time that we’re living in?  

Oh ya, with culture. We’re trying to reflect that right now even in our music. That’s what “Revolutionary” is about. The first song we played. We shot that music video in Hawaii on the Na Pali Coast. People can go check out that video on Youtube. That’s kind of what we’re talking about in the song. Is how divisive ideologies can be and how inclusive ideologies can be. And you can see one leader that has an ideology that brings everyone together and then another leader that has an ideology that separates everyone. So obviously standing from one of those and not the other.

Very well said, thank you so much again. 

FAULKNER’s majestic movement of progress engages us to recall and retell musical sounds and encourages us to be the change we all so eagerly seek. No question that these four artistically accomplished and gifted gentleman, Eric Scullin on lead guitar, Dimitri Farougias on bass guitar, Christian Hogan jam rocking on the drums and lyricist Lucas Asher have just begun on an intended and predestined magically tuned ride.

The electrifying unit that accompanies FAULKNER is resounding. And with all they have to offer, they are led by the JV.Agency force who is also a consciously contributing factor with publicist, Jaz Valencia’s newest leather accessory introduction. This dazzling, economical and functional iPhone purse is ideal for those of us who live on the edge, non stop from coast to coast, with much to carry and not enough hands. Fit for rock and roll aligned with studs, in black leather, THE VALENCIA, designed in New York is now available to all. Cause for action while you shop, as your purchase will contribute to the distribution of meals for the homeless in NYC.

 

“WE BELIEVE A GIRL CAN NEVER BE TOO FABULOUS, TOO SMART, OR WEAR TOO MUCH LEATHER…”

FAULT would like to thank FAULKNER, Jaz Valencia of the JV. Agency and Amanda from A.FAYE PR for having us and taking the time. Apart from the gripping music and funk of fashion, the great story is that of an open heart and helping hand, to reach those without, because we can and we understand, and so we are charged and entrusted to take a stand. There’s no better moment than now to strike with a revolutionary artistic change.

Words and Photographer: Chaunielle Brown

“Transient” – FAULT Magazine Exclusive Online Editorial

Photographer: Jack Eames
Stylist: Bernard Connolly
Hair: Darren Ambrose
Makeup: Kelly Sadler
Milkie@ Nevs
       Brynja@ Nevs