FAULT MAGAZINE Reviews Casely-Hayford LFWM AW/17

‘Cutting Facets’

There was a lot to celebrate this season for the duo behind Casely-Hayford’s AW17 collection. Not only was it creative director Joe Casely-Hayford’s 30th year, but there was also the introduction of the brands 1st Women’s Ready-To-Wear collection that fluidly embedded itself within the menswear collection.

Such an event presented itself as the perfect opportunity for the family duo to explore what the CaselyHayford house is through an exploration of re-inventing the ‘facets’ that have defined their signature style over the years. That is, reinventing classic Savile Row menswear tailoring for the modern English man. 

Over-sized large navy overcoats and black trousers with grey textured circles showed the classic tones of an Autumnal palette, aside from one striking orange piece that juxtaposed against the colour palette for good measure. Expecting nothing less, we saw them drawing from the archives with 70’s style printed shirts and 80s sportswear references with a collaboration from shoe designer Helen Kirkum, known for her unique handmade trainers made from recycled shoes.

Handwriting the new rules for Outwear this Autumn/Winter, sweaters transformed into coats and coats were draped over the shoulders like cardigans. Playing with ideas of proportion and volume, over-sized items were balanced against the houses signature fitted pieces and pinstripes and checks worked together in harmony for a blending of texture and print.

Needless to say, the father-son duo certainly gave a cause for celebration with a provoking collection that gave classic tailoring a fresh cut.

Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE Reviews Bobby Abley LFWM AW/17

Taking a detour from his love of Disney’s Mickey Mouse (as seen at previous A/W collections), this year Bobby Abley took inspiration from his other childhood dream, that is, the Power Rangers.

Both male and female models transformed into the iconic characters as they trail-blazed down the catwalk in bright primary colours, wearing ranger jackets and sweaters in all 5 colours (helmets to match) alongside a more contemporary neutral palette of tan tones in relaxed streetwear fits. The sense of a nostalgic sentimentality was evident in the references to 90s streetwear trends in accessories, from the addition of baseball caps to large hoop earrings and hair scrunchies as seen on the girls.

Rangers dinosaur stencil prints were a common feature (the Power Rangers alter egos) and were often split and joined with another print to reinforce this idea of duality and transformation. Knitwear and accessories were flooded with a loud ‘BA’ logo, boldly showing that this collection is all about Bobby Abley and his take on pop culture history. Long straps were tied around the wrists and waist as a nod towards martial arts and the use drawstrings further helped to create this puffy silhouette in tops that billowed out like a bag full of air.

His unwavering skill to blend playful imagery with cutting edge design makes Bobby Abley a powerful force within the industry as the master of wit and charm. And before you can say ‘Go Galactic!’, his pieces are available to buy inSelfridges as the designer debuts his first straight-to-store concept.

Heather Ibberson

 

FAULT MAGAZINE Reviews YMC LFWM AW/17

‘Traum Der Maschine’

In a dark and intimate show space with electronic music blaring from Factory Floor and spray paint ‘plastered’ on the walls, You Must Create transported us back to 70s Berlin in what they were calling their ‘Traum Der Maschine’ which literally translates as, Dream Machine. No surprise then that the Creative Director Fraser Moss took his inspiration from the Bauhaus movement, one of the most influential movements in modern art that paved the way in Modernist art and design with its focus on form over function, making this collection wearable yet still directional.

Another designer showcasing a Unisex collection this season, both male and female models stood sporting sheepskin flight jackets, speckled wool suits, Breton tops, wide legged trousers and zip shirts with Maze Print, inspired by the textile art of Josef and Anni Ablers. The silhouette was loose and comfortable with military style pieces in black, grey, camel and olive colours – the staple hues of A/W – offset with a burnt orange woollen bomber jacket and coat.

Moss has yet again succeeded in creating a collection of individual pieces that work well commercially but when combined, make for a harmonious body of work rooted in the punk and DIY aesthetic that makes up the You Must Create DNA.

Heather Ibberson

FAULT MAGAZINE Reviews Wan Hung LFWM AW/17

 

Feeling like you’ve just stepped into Chinese Laundry for a banquet meal (which just so happens to be the location for his promotional Fashion Film), this season, Wan Hung invited his guests to join him in an early celebration of theHainanese Chinese New Year for his formal debut presentation at London Fashion Week Men’s.

Once again, showing his fondness and nostalgia for his native Hainan Island in China as previously seen in his S/S 17 presentation, Wan Hung cleverly juxtaposed the natural beauty of Hainan for a more urban contemporary man. Bringing a piece of paradise into the everyday modern man’s wardrobe.

Doing what he knows best, we saw a reinvention of the classical silhouettes seen in tailoring through textile and print development. This season, traditional Chinese Tang Suit Robes given a Western twist with traditional complex Chinese knitting combined with innovative fabrics such as glitter fabric and high tech wadding. Prints were developed into designs from the Chinese character for ‘Good Luck’, which were united across the collection in a colour palette of red, silver, gold and tropical blues.

With the day after the final shows for London Men’s Fashion Week – 10thJanuary – marking a year since the loss of style icon David Bowie, it’s clear to see his influence continue to inspire young creatives from the white and black PVC disco platforms, cropped flare denim pants to the glisten of glitter among cheekbones and the back of model’s hair.

Yet another impressive collection for the designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014 as we see him continuing to nurture his sense of self-identity with his longing for his home island back in Hainan.

Heather Ibberson

 

LFWM AW17, EDITOR’S PICKS: DAY FOUR – FAULT MAGAZINE

Day 4 of LFWM featured the A/W ’17 collections of designers such as Belstaff and QASIMI . Below, FAULT’s Menswear Editor Kristine Kilty picks out her key looks from each of the aforementioned collections:

Belstaff

QASIMI

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS SONGZIO LFWM AW/17

 

Day four of LFWM was smited by the great Tubepocalypse, but FAULT were undeterred, present and correct for Paris based Korean fashion house SONGZIO AW17 show. The SONGZIO collection was a sublime effort, beautifully designed and crafted menswear that left us in awe; leaving no wonder to why GQ recently proclaimed that SONGZIO created “wearable art”!
Heavy on the black, and heavy on the Victorian influence: this Dickensian-esque collection (with the odd Hogwartian look thrown in for good measure!) was an homage to London’s past (and maybe also to the fog of recent weeks!), to the heritage of menswear and the male art of dressing; that which so long ago established this city as the epicentre of menswear. SONGZIO presented a strongly masculine collection, with a defined yet free flowing silhouette: modern classics inspired by the the rich heritage of menswear, and brought to life with splashes of neutrals, pinks, and vibrant orange. Many garments were ‘painted on’ /with painted linings beckoning seductively from beneath. Amongst the final looks, were several reminisce of the that worn by the cowboys of the old wild west; same era but very different continent; and given ‘Westworld’s’ recent success very timely!

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Ximon Lee LFWM AW/17

 

GQ China have become an established presence on the London menswear catwalks, each season showcasing some of the excellent Chinese design talent. This season it was the turn of H&M Design Award winner Ximon Lee, under his eponymous label XIMONLEE. Entitled “SHAME”, Lee delivered a sublime collection that was part fashion, part art; and a delightful musing on the modern male. Lee plays with structure and proportions, to propose his vision of menswear classics, and  responds to traditional notions of gender norms. Lee is also reflecting upon the societal ‘shame of our nudity’ that is the reason we cover up by dressing. At first glance we see beautiful over-sized outerwear and separates, that upon closer inspection reveal cutaways revealing glimpses of skin; the body the garments are otherwise hiding beneath their volumes. Collars are exaggerated and drape the shoulders. Sheer shirts and trousers are embroidered with pearls for a delicate yet masculine touch. Louche tailoring, leather bomber jackets band deconstructed leather bras and knitwear, out a killer offering from XIMONLEE. This is Mad Max in touch with his feminine side, this is wonderful!

WordsIan Michael Turner

FAULT MAGAZINE REVIEWS Masion Mihara Yasuhiro LFWM AW/17

 

Mihara’s AW17 show was undoubtedly inspired by cultures of different times and the possibly fashion holds through creativity. The collection challenged the view that the pursuit of simplicity is in fact complex. The garments on offer did not exude elaborate decoration or embellishment yet instead the search for subtle detail, silhouette and basic pieces that were elegantly classic.

Shown in an exposed brick setting, the models wore garments that followed the theme of tonal dressing. With an emphasis on outerwear, gradient shades of purple and dark maroon military coats were layered in a lightweight yet firm fabric. Structured battle jackets in black or green leather were detailed with simple zip hard wear and neutral coats in rust, cream and brown were belted with large buckles. The modern puffer was shown in crisp khaki and paired with over sized trousers and chunky leather shoes. Hooded pullovers in navy’s and greys and micro checked shirts presented an element of deconstructed tailoring that gave the collection that much sought after simplicity.

Words: Sarah Barnes