FAULT MAGAZINE BACKSTAGE @ ISSA SS15



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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard

LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (5) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

OSMAN

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Starting with simple, monochrome daywear for sophisticats, the Osman show progressed with fringe detailing, fresh colours such as citrus green and peach, a striking watercolour splash print and oversized patchworks to show he still has the creative edge. Midi and maxi lengths were key along with off-the-shoulder necklines, strapless dresses and cut out shoulders. A fringed silver cape was a particular highlight along with a floor length, sheer black dress over a black body embellished with circles of beads.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Simone Rocha

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Always a whirlwind of beauty and femininity, this season at Simon Rocha it came in the form of marabou trims, bright red flower prints and broderie anglaise. Sher mac coats with thick belts were a desirable twist on the classic and cute tea dresses were given multiple dimensions with cut out flower shapes embellishing the already floral print. Marabou skirt hems, trouser cuffs and sleeve edges harked back to old school glamour but avoided being too kitsch by keeping to a strict colour scheme of black and nude. Simple pumps and brogues were also trimmed with marabou while the layers of sheer tulle and organza that featured heavily in the collection were also tied in to the styling with headscarves covering the whole face and delicate, mid-forearm length gloves with lace trims.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Fashion East

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Before we talk fashion, let’s get the giant elephant in the room out of the way. Yes a man fell through the roof during the show, yes he’s ok and an ambulance was called immediately, no he wasn’t a rogue paparazzi trying to get backstage shots, he was a construction worker from the building opposite. The audience was pretty a-gasp at the situation but the show must go on and once we were all assured the man was ok, the clothes were ready for review!

Helen Lawrence opened with deconstructed looks, vintage-style knitwear and super miniature skirts. Rough around the edges was the look with asymmetrical styles, green latex shapes dangling from garments and loose fitting tops and trousers.

Louise Alsop’s beachy sportswear of tulled parkas, slashed maxi dresses and spaghetti strap jersey midis was styled with dreadlocked hair and trainers for a laid back vibe. Lemon yellow bought energy to the black and white colour palette while tshirt dresses to the mid-thigh brought home a relaxed androgyny.

Ed Maler’s sexy cohort of pirates were a flamboyant and fanciful way to end the show. Knee high stockings, bandana headpieces, Victorian frilled waistlines, corset lacing up trouser legs and cuffs that draped over hands were the epitome of eccentric creativity. Above all it represented what Fashion East is all about; spotting raw, cutting edge talent and nurturing it to make the fashion brands of the future.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Meadham Kirchhoff 

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Before we talk fashion, let’s get the giant elephant in the room out of the way. Yes a man fell through the roof during the show, yes he’s ok and an ambulance was called immediately, no he wasn’t a rogue paparazzi trying to get backstage shots, he was a construction worker from the building opposite. The audience was pretty a-gasp at the situation but the show must go on and once we were all assured the man was ok, the clothes were ready for review!

Helen Lawrence opened with deconstructed looks, vintage-style knitwear and super miniature skirts. Rough around the edges was the look with asymmetrical styles, green latex shapes dangling from garments and loose fitting tops and trousers.

Louise Alsop’s beachy sportswear of tulled parkas, slashed maxi dresses and spaghetti strap jersey midis was styled with dreadlocked hair and trainers for a laid back vibe. Lemon yellow bought energy to the black and white colour palette while tshirt dresses to the mid-thigh brought home a relaxed androgyny.

Ed Maler’s sexy cohort of pirates were a flamboyant and fanciful way to end the show. Knee high stockings, bandana headpieces, Victorian frilled waistlines, corset lacing up trouser legs and cuffs that draped over hands were the epitome of eccentric creativity. Above all it represented what Fashion East is all about; spotting raw, cutting edge talent and nurturing it to make the fashion brands of the future.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

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FAULT MAGAZINE @ LFW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY WITH CARLY HOBBS

Monday 15 September

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For me Monday was all about one show. Giles. Not only was the rave catwalk complete with strobe lighting and Bare Necessities passes for backstage very fun, the hair and make-up was playful from inspiration to finish.

Eyes were the focus, a blend of green and black shadows done by Team Mac. This alternative smoky effect followed through to the nails, which were half and half of these same shades. Why? Well the invite to Giles was based on a monster claw from the deep – a pink leopard print hand with green and black claws. Random, but it so worked.

And while make-up and nails were out there alongside the disco-esque collection, hair was the absolute opposite. Victorian Grunge to be precise. Created by Label M and Toni & Guy, it was a mash up of deep v-parting, hair worked back using salt spray and a bed head style ponytail to finish. Slightly dishevelled, totally hot.

 

Tuesday 16 September

 

And the final day of LFW SS15 when out in one big shimmery, glitz-fuelled, glam bang. With some last summery neutrals thrown in for good measure of course.

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The theme at Osman was a modern take on Woodstock – yep the 60s are defos back for SS15 in so many ways. But it wasn’t grungy hippies, more fresh, clean and fun-loving ones. Or as make-up artist heading up this show for Maybelline, Sharon Dowcett said, ‘these girls sleep in tepees not tents.’

Her specially created look was all expensive boho, complimenting the peaches and blues of the collection. She kept the base fresh, but used a velvet crayon in a dusty, nudey pink for the lips and added festival flush to the cheeks using Maybelline Baby Lips Fluro in Stirke a Rose. The effect? Like the Osman girl had been dancing in a field all day. Only the top lashes were treated to mascara while the brows were simply defined and eyes had a soft brown liner gently blended around the socket line. A little bit 60s but not too Twiggy, so to keep things current.

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Hair-inspo came from one of the models when she was casted for the show. Nick Irwin using Catwalk by Tigi, worked from her freshly washed hair that had a whole lot of movement asking all the girls to rock up post shower for pre-show prep. He then simply spritzed a little spray on mousse up top and through the ends, pressing locks down a little around the ears. Minimal product, impressive effect.

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And the final backstage beauty spying we did was at Ashish. Showgirl minus the drag was the make-up inspo and fresh skin, moisturised lips and then full on, statement, bejewelled eyes was the end result. One of the models told us wearing the layered up glitter, gems and shimmering shadows was like having kaleidoscopes on her eyes. ‘I can see them sparkling,’ she said. And it looked incredible. There was no mascara or liner, instead an ordered gem-ladden structure along the lower line, structured out ballerina style with a nude liner. Then up top it was chaos the bronzes, golds and coral eyeshadows used as a base, then craft shop gems stuck on in clusters, at random and right up to the brows. Sharon Dowcett, heading up team Maybelline, revealed the best way to get your gem on. First dab on lash glue using tiny cotton buds – Muji do amazingly small ones – then dip a bigger cotton bud in water to dampen before using this to pick up the little studs. It stays wet long enough to grip the gem and then hold it in place on the face until it’s stuck. Clever.

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Hair was just as cool. Ali Pirzadeh for L’Oreal Paris Professional, wove strings of multi coloured tinsel into slicked down locks to give the impression of a girl that had been out dancing all night. Fun.

And for nails, Michelle Humphries, started off with two coats of a silvery base, before layering on a further two coats of Maybelline Colorshow{CORR} in Glitter It. Then the gems came out again, attached in cosmic clusters around the cuticles and tips. Disco just got served, in a fresh, modern style. What an end to an awesome SS15 showcase.

 

-Carly Hobbs (Instagram – Twitter)

LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (4) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

Mulberry

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Mulberry’s country garden inspired collection had us buzzing about their beehive of hexagon laser cuts and prints entwined with photographic flower prints. Mannequins amongst an abundance of vases filled with native English flowers and foliage displayed the muted colour palette for next season of black, stone and sky blue. Fine leather skirts and jackets kicked out at the knee and waist gave curves to an otherwise slim collection. Of course Mulberry’s real lust-worthy USP is their bags which are much daintier to complete the gentrified outfits for SS15 with snakeskin and weaved details in a clutch size with slim, metal chain handles.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Michael Van der Ham 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

With a collection dedicated to the late Louise Wilson OBE and his first foray into accessories with shoes and sunglasses, the Spring Summer 2015 collection from Michael Van der Ham certainly didn’t disappoint. Multi layered textiles, heavy beading and embroidery and clashing prints all showed off Van der Ham’s signature design aesthetic. The collaboration with Lunettes Kollektion included mirrored round sunglasses with scalloped embossing, and are guaranteed to be a sure fire hit with fashion and music’s coolest kids.

Using a colour palette of grey, navy blue, royal blue, lilac and ivory with pops of coral, the embroidered fabrics were created in silk organza and georgette with metal hammered bullion, frayed and shredded georgette, cut work edged with silver thread bobbles and lurex fringing appliquéd onto tulle. Voluminous necklines and shoulders were shown along side asymmetric hems on skirts and dresses, and high waisted trousers, shorts and skirts.

The juxtaposing sleek and voluminous silhouettes were paired with custom platform loafers in brick red, powder blue, black patent and silver and pink jacquards all featuring ruffle detailing, and are certain to be a commercial success when launched.

-Jenny Slungaard

 

Christopher Kane

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For SS15 Christopher Kane presents… the vamp. Always a popular designer at celebrity parties, wevthink the A-listers are going to be all over this collection for their next champagne-fuelled evening of Mayfair debauchery. Black and oxblood satin dresses were constructed with sheer panel midrifts and multi-straps which gave a cut out effect. Rope prints draped down sheer midi-dresses and leather sleeves and trousers hinted at fetish-wear without being risqué while tulle rara skirts were girlish without being cheap. A very stylish medium.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Burberry Prorsum 

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The impact of Christopher Bailey’s dual role was evident in the Burberry Prorsum SS15 show. Inspired by “The Birds and the Bees”, the collection was thought to evoke memories of a summer day, with sheer tulle dresses tied with fabric swatches or pair with paired with waspy waist denim jackets; flat shoes in the form of trainers and leather sliders, just the kind of shoes you could run through a meadow in; small bags casually draped across the body; it all felt very safe and commercial, every piece masterminded to be a financial success as a CEO would demand. Yes there were some pretty pieces, the raw edged tulle dresses were flattering but lacked excitement. Bailey’s creative mind came into play with the stunning finale of hand-printed trench coats emblazoned with stunning vintage book cover designs and butterfly prints, in a riot of glorious technicolor. The impact of a parade of models in the rainbow prints was powerful and for that the show was stunning.

-Jenny Slungaard

 

Peter Pilotto

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Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto are always renowned for their stunning signature digital prints, however recent shows have somewhat lacked freshness. For SS15 however, in using simple A-line shift dresses and uncomplicated silhouettes, they allowed what they are best known for, the complex engineered prints and incredible mixed media embellishments to take centre stage.

Inspired by hippy acid-trips, flowers prints set within organza were overlain by trippy neon shapes, plastic thread was woven into lace and covered with naive paisley shapes, and the signature Pilotto digital prints were replaced with bold, graphic stripes. Overall the result was an exciting, creative and highly desirable collection, the boys did well!

-Jenny Slungaard

 

Tom Ford

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It’s going to be a long winter with a number of designers making tough black, sequins and leather a key part of their collections right into spring and summer next year. Tom Ford’s 70s rock ‘n’ roll themed collection was in on the trend and oozed sexiness with crotch-skimming miniskirts flashing the model’s hold up stockings and metallic brocade flares flicked over sky scraper platform heels.

Ironically, nipples were not on the menu for the vagabond designer as strategically placed sequins added a minimal amount of modesty to sheer tops. Even the maxi skirts couldn’t resist flashing a little flesh with splits up to the mid-thigh. As ‘Addicted to Love’ strum out for the models to stomp along to, their wild-child outfits, shaggy hair and thick kohl eyes sent a clear message: don’t fuck with a Tom Ford woman.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

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FAULT MAGAZINE BACKSTAGE @ LFW: DAY (3)

Xiao Li

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Swedish School of Textiles 

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Vita Gottlieb

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Sorapol 

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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard

FAULT MAGAZINE @ LFW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY WITH CARLY HOBBS

 

Day three brought a whole lot of liner, Parisian street tans and freckles. Pretty, sprayed on freckles.

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The coolest beauty, hair and tan combo came at David Koma. Make-up was all highlighted cheeks with the slickest, straightest tram track liner in town. Sharon Dowsett aka MUA supremo was heading up Team Maybelline, to create this eye opener. Love. It was done using Maybelline Master Precise eyeliner and some masking tape, to ensure both lines were sharp. Hair was pulled back into sectioned sports luxe waves courtesy of Nick Irwin using Catwalk by Tigi. The hero lock product here? Catwalk by Tigi Bodylifting Spray, soaked in at the roots and sides, then dragged through the rest. And finally, the tan, a Parisian glow to go with London edge, was spritzed on by bronzers Nichola Joss and Jules Heptonstall. Street style tan? Done.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi_St.Tropez The Freckle Tan_arms & chest

Over at Preen by Thornton Bragazzi it was all about freckles, lots of splattered on freckles. Thinking all things beachy, St Tropez Self Tan Dark Mousse was pumped into little pots, then a large round paint brush was used to splatter on the colour over a lighter instant tan, also by St Tropez. The result? A summery smattering of DIY freckles. These were complimented by Val Garland’s drawn on freckles on the face and just-been-to-the-gym-cheeks. Tresses were swept into a wet look up front and into a crimped bun round the back.

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And all things beauty limbered up to look pretty sporty at Richard Nicholl. The muse for both hair and make-up was late 90s Kate Moss aka the Johnny Depp years. Sharon Dowsett and her Maybelline team – yep they’ve been busy – used lots of mascara and khol liner, applied like a school girl, to create naughty, sporty eyes.
Clarisonic were on hand doing 60 seconds facials on the models using the infamous cleansing brush and Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cleanser, so that skin would look super fresh with only minimal concealer required. A Nike tick shape of peachy sheen was also used on the cheekbones, which looked so beautiful and fresh. Hair-wise, locks had an athletic/Kate feel, with John Frieda Brilliant Brunette Hairspray and Liquid Shine used to pull the top back and keep the ends all kinds of textured. Oh and we couldn’t leave out the nails. Done by top nail pro Michelle Humphrey using Maybelline New York shades, she worked Green With Envy and Tutti Frutti into a transparent glaze for a washed out 90s nod. The green hue was also a high five to the Tinkerbell inspo also weaved into Nicholl’s show. Grown up pastels are so here for the new season.

 

-Carly Hobbs (Instagram – Twitter)

LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (3) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

 

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
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Preen went all kinds of sportswear on us this season, and by god, that’s definitely something we didn’t know we wanted. When we say sportswear, though, we don’t mean throw on your joggers and lets go for a hike, we mean good old, classic, American sportswear, where everything is clean and classic and simple, but still effortlessly chic and on the forefront of everyone’s mind. Heavy on the stripes that moved with the boy as opposed to ruining it (don’t worry, Thornton and Bregazzi wouldn’t steer you wrong with a stripe), and even heavier on the colours (black and white permeated, whilst hints of red, ochre, pale blue, and floral prints weaved in and out), the offerings from Preen for the new season have an element of seaside-courtside-tribal cultism about them, but in the most lust-worthy way possible. A mix of silhouettes, from body-con to billowingly repellant, has proved just how much Preen continues to develop since the brand was brought back to London. And what a perfect decision that was, right?

 

Mulberry SS15

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The second collection since the departure of its former creative director Emma Hill, Mulberry’s theme for this year was the English garden. The prints were inspired by delphinium, cow parsley and cornflower, making the pallet of the show rather subdue. Accentuated with leather, the collection seemed commercial with the design team clearly having their customer in mind and taking the words of “Ready to wear” to heart. The pieces were pretty and wearable though the overall impression was rather prim with a luxury feel.

Recently the brand seems to have been banking on the pull of celebrities, with Cara Delevigne designing a range of bags, a move away from previous Mulberrydarling Alexa Chung. And while the move to it girl Delevgine was certainly a logical one, it remains unclear whether this has really helped the brand move forward. It is easy to imagine someone like Kate Middleton in the new collection, however with Mulberry’s ever increasing prices one cannot help but wonder whether they are moving further and further away from their original customer. The Mulberry woman has certainly undergone a kind of transformation and it will be interesting to see how the brand develops once a new creative director has been appointed.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Sophia Webster
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Have any of you been into Cyberdog? If not look it up. Sophia Webster has created the ultimate clubbing inspired collection. The collection draws bits from different cultures. The bikini clad models held fear inducing poses while decorated with kabuki like eyes and white face paint. Bantu knots, dreads and box braids give off an African feel. The accessories on show were charming and colourful, speech bubble clutch bags with slogans on them and fruit printed fans. As well as net vests goggles and bright utility belts, the shoes on display included extreme knee high strappy boots, aztec heels, cut out boots and fruit decorated sliders.

 

-Deborah Ajia

 

Richard Nicholl

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Nicholl’s latest collection opened with a slip dress illuminated by fibre optics, which was an interesting start to what felt like an elevated sportswear collection infused with some casual dresses that could double as eveningwear for the right woman. Greys, whites, duck egg blue tones, a few blush pink tones and lots of metallic further pushed the sportswear aspects of the collection before moving into navy and blacks for the more elegant looks of the show. Transparency played a major role with Nicholl for SS15, which lend for a certain airiness to the collection. The evening wear Nicholl showed us this season was beautiful and had a simple elegance about them, which worked well with the more day-centric looks at the beginning of the show.

Overall, the collection had a wonderful range of pieces and Nicholl managed to dress his woman from day to night, somehow always making her look chic. SS15 felt very much in Nicholls’s comfort zone in terms of his choice of colours and cut, however the use of metallic was certainly a step forward for the designer. His ability to give us beautifully crafted and sharp tailoring never fails to make us smile.

-Charlotte Natter

 

 Marios Schwab 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Greco-Austrian Central St Martins MA graduate Marios Schwab is famed for his seductive little dresses featuring sheer fabric panels and form fitting shapes. His SS15 collection certainly featured his trademark dress but also easy tailored separates that epitomised summer in the city. Trench coats, sleeveless jackets, loose shift dresses and asymmetric hems in block colours of beige, white, teal and blue sat alongside monochrome blurred prints and cut out shirts to create a fresh and highly wearable collection.

Spaghetti strap dresses were layered over asymmetric long skirts, crop jackets with long coat tails and simple sheath strapless dresses with tie fastenings gave a stripped back look. The statement sheer gowns were still there, featuring heavily embroidered graphic panels, vibrant colour pops and metallic detailing but were an elegant feature alongside the tailored pieces.

Jenny Slungaard

 

Matthew Williamson

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

With a collection going back to the brand’s roots, the Spring Summer 2015 show from Matthew Williamson heavily featured floral prints, a bold colour palette, flowing gowns and sumptuous fabrics.

Inspired by photographs of Marie Helvin in David Bailey’s book Chasing Rainbows, the collection was reminiscent of 1970’s Palm Springs. Lounge suits sat amongst flowing gowns, shirt dresses alongside long sleeved cocktail dresses, silk shirts paired with sheer lace skirts and flirty crop tops with asymmetric hem mini skirts, creating elegant silhouettes.

Heavily embellished dresses featured shimmering sequins, vibrant embroidered hibiscus flowers, billowing fabric and luxe ostrich feather trims. A striking colour palette of oxblood, coral, teal, emerald green, sky blue and neon pops had the Matthew Williamson DNA all over it, proving to be a gorgeous, cohesive collection which will likely feature heavily across magazine covers next season.

Jenny Slungaard 

 

Temperley

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For SS15 Alice Temperley from Temperley London really stepped away from what the brand was previously known for, namely evening wear, and showed us a range of beautifully tailored separates and dresses. This is the second collection for Temperley since she fused her two brands (Temperley and Alice byTemperley) about a year ago and the designer’s collection certainly combines her two previous women seamlessly. Temperley’s woman does seem to enjoy power dressing with an androgynous edge, as we saw a range of suits in different colours ranging from grey to ivory tones and made out of various different fabrics come down the runway.

The inspiration for the newest collection, Temperley revealed in the supporting statement, came from the Japanses shunga paintings. This came to light in airy kimono jackets in intricate yet bold prints as well as the stencilled out layers visible under some of the jackets. The collection has a certain carefree, airy youthfulness to it, which made the collection feel like a breeze of fresh air for our summer wardrobes. The Temperley woman is certainly a sharp and confident dresser who likes to look glamorous without trying too hard. The sharp tailoring and attention to details in the collection were proof of that.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Paul Smith
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Professional and chic as always, Paul Smith brings his new collection to the catwalk with a bang. Fringes surprisingly pop up on tees, vests and shirts, these clean and smart outfits feature blazers, shirts, midi skirts, culottes, vests and trousers. They come in an array of prints and designs, from striped to plain and shiny to matte. The traditional colours of corporate wear are used with a dash of unconventional colours; blues, greys, reds and browns meet pale tones, oranges and greens. Sliders, heels and brogues are incorporated into many of the outfits. Shopper bags in a mix of leather and suede combine with the simple bracelets accompany the looks.

- Deborah Ajia 

 

Jonathan Saunders

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The first thought that came to mind when looking at the opening pieces ofJonathan Saunders’ newest collection was “Matisse”. His opening coat and trousers were adorned with cut-out pieces of leaves and bows which certainly set the tone for the rest of the collection by moving from much darker colours to a much more light palette as the show progressed.

Set to the rather eerie soundtrack of Under the skin Saunders’ woman was wearing a mix of no-nonsense pieces to much more abstract pieces later in the show, keeping the leaf inspiration throughout. The colours Saunders presented us with were quite traditional summer colours of tan tones, white and blues in different shades. And while many pieces reflected a certain masculinity, the tailored trousers and jackets, managed to keep a feminine aspect to them which Saunders expressed through the use of oversized bows and ruffles.

-Charlotte Natter

 

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FAULT MAGAZINE BACKSTAGE @ LFW: DAY (2)

Zeynup Kartal

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Dora Abodi

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Ccuoco

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Photography: Jean-Luc Brouard