‘Tinder’ – FAULT Online Exclusive Editorial by Simian Coates


Necklace: Zorya Ear jewellery: Antipearle

Necklace: Zorya
Ear jewellery: Antipearle

Swimsuit: Tereza Vu. Leather cape: Layko. Shoes: Casadei. Sunglasses:  Italia Independent. Ring: Antipearle.

Swimsuit: Tereza Vu. Leather cape: Layko. Shoes: Casadei. Sunglasses:
Italia Independent. Ring: Antipearle.

Hooded cape: Jiri Kalfar Swimsuit: Tereza Vu Necklace: Antipearle

Hooded cape: Jiri Kalfar
Swimsuit: Tereza Vu Necklace: Antipearle

Swimsuit: Žaneta Malénková.  Shoes: Michael Kors. Necklace & Bracelet: Zorya.  Sunglasses: Italia Independent.

Swimsuit: Žaneta Malénková.
Shoes: Michael Kors. Necklace & Bracelet: Zorya.
Sunglasses: Italia Independent.

Swimsuit: Agent Provocateur Bracelet: Zorya. Cap, stylists own.

Swimsuit: Agent Provocateur
Bracelet: Zorya. Cap, stylists own.


Photography: Simian Coates
Stylist: Veronika Metz
Hair & Make Up: Marta Korousová
Model: Maja Hriníková @ 2W Scout

FAULT Magazine Exclusive Online Editorial – Kia Hartelius’ FAULT

Dress: Rachael Cassar Belts: Melamed Shoes: Greymer

Dress: Rachael Cassar
Belts: Melamed
Shoes: Greymer

Top: alice McCALL Sunglasses: Anne et Valentin Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Top: alice McCALL
Sunglasses: Anne et Valentin
Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Top: alice McCALL Pants: vintage Sunglasses: Anne et Valentin Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Top: alice McCALL
Pants: vintage
Sunglasses: Anne et Valentin
Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Black top: alice McCALL  Skirt: Adrianna Papell  Shoes: Greymer  Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Black top: alice McCALL
Skirt: Adrianna Papell
Shoes: Greymer
Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Black pants: J. Loren Jacket: Elisabetta Franchi  Body suit: Elisabetta Franchi  Shoes: Alberto Guardini  Sunglasses: Cutler and Gross from Montana Eyes

Black pants: J. Loren
Jacket: Elisabetta Franchi
Body suit: Elisabetta Franchi
Shoes: Alberto Guardini
Sunglasses: Cutler and Gross from Montana Eyes

Beige & black dress: Adrianna Papell  Black knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz  Shoes: Trooper Boots by ASKA  Necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Beige & black dress: Adrianna Papell
Black knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz
Shoes: Trooper Boots by ASKA
Necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Black top: Amabelle Aguiluz Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

Black top: Amabelle Aguiluz
Gold necklace: Gabriela Artigas

White button down: Lafayette 148 White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz  Pants: Elisabetta Franchi Shoes: Alberto Guardini Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes

White button down: Lafayette 148
White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz
Pants: Elisabetta Franchi
Shoes: Alberto Guardini
Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes

White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz  White button down: Lafayette 148 Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes

White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz
White button down: Lafayette 148
Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes

White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz White button down: Lafayette 148 Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes

White knit top: Amabelle Aguiluz
White button down: Lafayette 148
Glasses: RetroSpecs from Montana Eyes


Photography: Kia Hartelius
Make-up/hair: Kirstine Engell
Stylist: Natalie Hemmati
Model: Dallas @ FordModels LA
















Credit: Vic Lentaigne


As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.


Anya Hindmarch


After the notoriety of her last few seasons, all eyes were on Anya Hindmarch to see what wild reinvention she’d come up with next. And she didn’t disappoint; after the fashion revival of Kellogg’s, and the chic transformation of road signs, Hindmarch turned her attention to the great British high street for her SS16 offering.

Hindmarch has shown inimitable skill in tapping into nostalgia, and the show space was agog today as high street favourites were reinvented for high fashion purposes. Tessellation also played a key theme, with logos and lines cleverly spaced, and models performing gymnastic moves in the mirrored set to kaleidoscopic effect.

But on to the pieces; John Lewis’ famous diagonal stripes were emblazoned across coats, jumpers and leotards in muted shades of burgundy, charcoal, teal and of course, forest green, with ‘John’ printed across the front of handbags too. Mothercare’s and Nationwide’s blue logos got the same treatment; printed onto swing coats and knee-high boots for a gloriously retro 60s vibe. WHSmith’s garishly 1970s logo was big and bold on vinyl coats and bags, burning bright in shades of burnt orange, rust and umber.

But the piece de resistance? Boots’ classic logo, printed on to… boots. Turning a high-street chemist into a high fashion holy grail – Anya Hindmarch, we salute you.

Laura Hudson


Amanda Wakeley


Amanda Wakeley is one of those brands that I am excited to see season after season. It’s not the kind of brand that goes out of it’s way to shock or make a statement, it is just one of those brands that consistently delivers each time.

This season, Wakeley felt drawn to the inspiring and gravity defying work of Santiago Calatrava. Calatrava is a Spanish-born architect, originally trained, as a structural engineer who used his training and design skills to create works of art. The strength and delicacy of his work is what Wakeley has attempted to convey in her SS16 collection.

What worked really well in this collection was the use of colour. Using dark tones with a pastel pink and white, didn’t deter from the silhouette yet was strong enough to hold its ground. Let’s not forget the beautiful print that used lines and tone to create in depth structures within the garment. It truly reflected the modern and structural approach of Calatrava.
The silhouette for the collection was overall quite soft. Long lengths of chiffon flowed in the models’ wake, beautifully minimilatist jackets were belted at the waist and thick oversized sweaters with sheer panelled backs.

This season marked a milestone birthday for the brand, 25 years young and still with so much more to give. Amanda Wakeley has built her brand on the ideals of a strong and independent woman. This woman shines through in each collection and I can’t wait to see to what heights she reaches next.

Emma Ellen




Credit: Nigel Pacquette

Toga revealed its SS16 collection on the final day of Fashion Week and boy, was it a show to remember! Described as “Petals, Minerals, Squiggles”, designer Yasuko Furuta studied her “complex woman” through themes based on the natural elements.

A clay backdrop and a trio of trees set the backdrop for a collection inspired by nature and weather. Trans-seasonal daywear kicked off the show, with pieces perfect for the chaotic weather both in London and in the designer’s home city of Japan; the white mesh coat, nude ruffles and gingham and vinyl dresses weren’t exactly practical, but so chic.

Detailing featured heavily throughout the collection, with layers of tiny bronze fish-scale sequins and multi-coloured ruffles catching the eye as each model sashayed down the runway. This attention to detail and over-exaggeration of some pieces sometimes made for a chaotic look, but what is nature if not a bit wild?!

Laura Hudson




Sequins, sequins and more sequins are all you should ever expect at an Ashish show.
This brand is like no other – Ashish Gupta’s Indian heritage often comes into play influencing the texture, print and colour of a collection, but there is also this punk attitude of the 1980s London that always seems to sneak its way into the brands style. Garments are known for being sequined and studded, and sexy yet dominating. This unique balance of juxtaposition means that there is never a dull moment at an Ashish show.
This season celebrated the label having shown their collections at London Fashion Week for 10 years. Such a milestone can only be celebrated with excessive amounts of glitter and jewels. However, this was surprisingly not the direction the brand went. Instead, the collection was fun and bright. Some models walked the runway, others glided on skateboards. This youthful approach had girls and boys in loose fitting shorts, shirts and shift dresses – some of which were sheer, but all were adorned it a brilliant rainbow of sequins, Ashish style.
In a youthful celebration, where girls were boys and boys were girls, the brand instilled the idea that whilst 10 years have come and gone, this label has still so much to give and so many more fashion weeks to make their own.

Emma Ellen

FAULT Magazine Exclusive Editorial – Heiko Laschitzki’s FAULT

Pullover : Cheap Monday Salopettes : Reserved Shoes : New Balance

Pullover : Cheap Monday
Salopettes : Reserved
Shoes : New Balance

Dress : Antonia Goy Shoes : Feja

Dress : Antonia Goy
Shoes : Feja

Sweatshirt : G-Star Skirt : Zara Shoes : Adidas

Sweatshirt : G-Star
Skirt : Zara
Shoes : Adidas

Sweatshirt : G-Star Skirt : Zara Shoes : Adidas

Sweatshirt : G-Star
Skirt : Zara
Shoes : Adidas

Shirt : Mavi Skirt : Reserved Shoes : Clarks

Shirt : Mavi
Skirt : Reserved
Shoes : Clarks

Top : Only Trousers : Franziska Michael

Top : Only
Trousers : Franziska Michael

Top : Augustin Teboul Trousers : Bobby Kolade

Top : Augustin Teboul
Trousers : Bobby Kolade


Photography : Heiko Laschitzki

Hair & Make Up : Latisha Nicholson using MAC products

models : 

Bayana @ Iconic mgmt

Lotte @ Iconic mgmt

Kristina @ Iconic mgmt

Thea @ Iconic mgmt

Maria @ Viva models

Tia @ Modelfabrik


As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.


Phoebe English


The Phoebe English SS16 presentation was a dark and dramatic collection; a heavily monochrome collection in stark, sharp shapes dominated, with a mix of soft and structured fabrics, all with an unfinished edge.

Models presented oversized black dresses, cut in slouchy shapes with slashes, or layers of sheer fabric adding texture and drama. Dresses also featured woven panels overlaid with unravelling edges, creating an undone look that sat well alongside the models’ bedhead hairstyles.

Other pieces seemed to be inspired by traditional workwear, with pinafore-style dresses in hardy natural linen, uneven edges and loose ribbon ties. White shirts were fashioned into ruffly dresses with the woven panels making a second appearance, while edges were left raw and unfinished. The entire collection left us feeling a little uneasy beside the polished perfection of other collections this season, but we get the feeling that perhaps that was the whole point.

Laura Hudson


Paul Smith


When a brand has such a strong aesthetic as Paul Smith, it’s a certainty that the show won’t disappoint. Paul Smith’s SS16 show was a welcome explosion of colour, with shades of teal and tangerine featuring heavily throughout.

The collection paid homage to Smith’s latest menswear collection, with oversized tailoring and masculine shapes making their mark on the runway. Shapes were slouchy yet sophisticated; the fashion editor’s dream! Double-breasted suit jackets were worn buttoned up and belted, while oversized blazers hung over similarly loose trousers. Models showcased culottes and oversized smocks in bright colours and clashing prints, while the tailoring element was kept sleek in shades of neutral navy, teal, grey and white.

We especially loved the oversized orange satin coat – a tangerine dream! – and the mannish blazers that would toughen up any number of feminine dresses when Spring rolls around. A classic collection, perfect for those who love Paul Smith’s minimalist vibe.

Laura Hudson


Margaret Howell


Suitably sporty and a little bit bookish, Margaret Howell’s SS16 collection was pared-back and perfectly Parisian. Howell’s style staples were all present and correct for this season, with an array of crisp shirts and paper-bag tailored trousers, in classic monochrome with a chic shot of scarlet.

Pointed Peter Pan collars, co-ords and sheer rain macs added a subtle 60s flair to the collection; we can just see Howell’s collection being worn playing tennis in the Tuileries, scanning the shelves of the Sorbonne library, or having a picnic on the banks of the Seine.

Sleek, simple shapes made up the majority of the collection; it felt completely wearable and looked effortlessly elegant – typically Margaret Howell, of course.

One thing’s for sure, we’re definitely going to be pairing black socks with white loafers next Spring if it looks this good!

Laura Hudson


Mary Katrantzou


An astronomical phenomenon swept through fashion week on day three. A celestial display of shimmering fabrics, star cluster prints and midnight jewel tones. Mary Katrantzou stuck to the desirable, never tasteless, party dresses that she does best with a cosmological theme. 

Above-the-knee skirts were balanced out with high necklines, many in a racer front cut. Styled with thick ribbed tights and multi-buckle, pointed ankle boots, these party girls are cool and confident.
Of course it wouldn’t be a Mary Katrantzou collection without some print. As well as dotted, swirling constellations, Asian influences were also present. Curved lines framed the body and separated panels of clashing prints inspired by nature akin to a Persian rug.
We’re on board for a magic carpet ride to the stars next season!

Olivia Pinnock




Celebrating its 200th anniversary, Pringle of Scotland is of course one of Britain’s most revered brands, and we were all keen to see what contemporary vision this ever-developing company would bring to the catwalk for SS16.
Employing traditional knitting techniques to stunningly modern effect is always a key element of Pringle of Scotland’s shows, and this season was no different. Macramé and crochet featured heavily in the latest collection for an innovative twist on the traditional, with emphasis placed on contrasting textures. Macramé bralets were teamed with silk, while baby-soft sweaters were paired with hardy cut-out leather.
Sticking mostly to a stark monochrome colour palette, flashes of contemporary metallics were used to great effect too, with fluid silver silk and glimmers of gold adding a feminine feel to the collection. Loose, open knits and slouchy shapes gave Pringle a gorgeously grungy vibe too.
Printed chiffon and shirting were also prevalent in this latest collection, with a 3D effect print causing waves on the front now, while asymmetric proportions, cold shoulders and crochet applique added a hint of sensuality.

Laura Hudson


Claire Barrow


As you walked into the Claire Barrow SS16 presentation, you got the sense that you had reached a post-apocalyptic parallel universe. Models were sprawled over a black satin canvas, although it looked more like they had submerged themselves in a swamp of oil. The confronting image was the exact point Barrows wanted to make. She wanted to have her audiences confront their reality and in turn question their future. The idea behind her collection was what kind of world would we live in without technology?

Barrows is well known for incorporating political messages in her work, often drawing inspiring images and messages on her garments. This season was no exception to that rule. The feeling of vulnerability was perfectly displayed in the use of basic undergarments. Not one to waste any canvas space, Barrow’s also used tights and leather underpants to convey her message. Dresses were layered and ruffled, leather trousers were ass-less and suits were beautifully tailored.

Barrow’s confronting dystopia was exactly was this season’s fashion week needed. It’s the experience of seeing brilliantly hand crafted garments but also having your own ideas and values challenged.

Emma Ellen


Zoe Jordan


Presentations have always offered designers a new approach at displaying work to an audience. More like an art show than a parade, it invites the audience to get involved and be much more intimate with a collection. But as technology advances and many industries start taking that digital plunge, designers must continue finding new platforms to best present their collections each season.
Zoë Jordan is one of those few designers taking a step in the direction of film. For her SS16 collection ‘Archipelago’ she decide to use KCD’s online –only runway platform, one that allows her to reach a much bigger international audience. With regards to the new digital platform she states that it ‘has facilitated insightful and interesting conversations with my audience’ allowing her to understand what it is ‘what they want, wear and stand for.’

The presentation is set against a rock and sand covered area; it’s tranquil but also feels quite remote. This made me pose the question; if I were stuck on an island what would I take? The Zoë Jordan SS16 collection of course. The pieces in this collection exude strength whilst remaining practical. Wide legged trousers, shift dresses and shirts provide this comfort but it is the beautiful tailoring in the jackets and detailed construction of the hooded jumpers that provide the strength. But it is the fabrications – everything from the mesh to the print design that makes this collection what it is.

An interesting way of presenting her collection, Jordan deserves recognition for taking a risk. Many are not cottoning on to this trend, but I’m sure as time goes by many will be jumping on board.

Emma Ellen


MM6 Maison Margiela


If the stars of Ziggy Stardust and Mick Jagger were to collide, MM6 Maison Margiela SS16 collection would be the result. With Galliano directing the diffused brand’s design team you can only hope for something electric and extraordinary.

Electric is definitely how you would define this collection. Inspired by London and the brand’s creative community, this season seemed to depict what a futuristic East London may potentially look like.

Yet it can only be said that this was the brand’s own “glam metal” squad as the roughness of the jeans and t-shirt look was glamorised by the constant use of sequins (from gloves to a bum bag being used as a bandeau top). Out of all the looks, the strongest would have to be the brown sequined suit. Double breasted with an exaggerated collar and worn with a scarf that swept the floor, no other look felt as strong as this did. Yet out of all of the garment details, a personal favourite would have to be the use of the bow collar. This exaggerated neckline is quite soft; therefore I felt it toned down the harshness and brightness of the collection. The collars were worn well over deconstructed jackets and sleeveless sweaters. I felt that this made the collection a more wearable option for the MM6 follower.

The point of this collection was to represent the creative individuals who inspire all forms of art; from those that are thrown together, to the structurally intricate, from the dark to the dazzling. With that being said it is no doubt that the brand hit its mark.

Emma Ellen




There is only word to describe the Belstaff SS16 collection and that is tranquil.

Everything from the garments to the atmosphere of the show embodied this peaceful mood. But to say it was a show is simply not enough; an experience is more befitting. As you entered the room, the soothing sound of waves craves filled the air, as models posed against a backdrop of ocean views.

The beauty that manifests in power inspired Belstaff’s most recent collection. It is forces such as the thrust of a wave to the movement of the wind that influence this strength and beauty.
Water is identified as being nature’s most powerful element and force. It is this kind of energy; in particular that of the sea that influences the overall style. It has influenced the play on tones – lighter shades reflect the shallows whereas darker tones signify the depths of the ocean, the energy and movement of water can be felt in the texture of the fabrics and silhouettes of the garments. Soft delicate silks, hung from the body providing contrast to the leather and suede jackets.

The Belstaff woman is a force to be reckoned with; something the brand has truly emulated through this collection. She exudes true femininity, which is where true beauty meets with great power.

Emma Ellen




Osman’s SS16 collection was an ode to artist, Frida Kahlo. Inspired by the love letters written by Kahlo to her husband Diego Rivera, the collection explores the passionate emotion that consumed her.

Kahlo always felt a sense of pressure, between dressing like a traditional Mexican woman would and more like the modern she was. This caused anguish and uncertainty, for she just wanted to be loved.

The collections open in tones of black and white. Keeping it simple but also traditional. Shirts are white and crisp, adorned with traditional ties and heavy black leather belts. The looks are quite androgynous which seems representational of Kahlo’s painting Self-portrait with cropped hair. The collection then moves into tones of red, where designs shift between suits and frilled dresses, really playing on Kahlo’s own gender confusion. In beautiful Osman form, the garments transpired into beautiful artworks themselves- once blank canvases; the fabric was now decoratively detailed with sweeping brush strokes.

Yet it is the motif of a tree, its roots anchored deep into the garments that really bring this collection home. The first tree we see is embellished onto the garment, long thing roots race down the body in a deep blood red. The next and final garment shows the same tree, but this time the tree has grown and is full of life. Kahlo has a painting entitled Tree of Hope, a self portrait that sees her holding a flag that bares the phrase ‘tree of hope remain strong.’ Kahlo found life to be a challenge, including her relationship with Diego. The tree is a representation of the strength and hope that things can only get better.

The beauty of this collection is that it did not try too hard. Many designs get lost in the moment of what was rather than what is. This modern take on someone who was once considered a modern woman, is a befitting and colourful tribute.

Emma Ellen


David Koma


Credit: Nigel Pacquette

If one word were to define the David Koma SS16 collection it would be ‘woman’. It was a strong and mature collection, defined by its figure hugging silhouettes and classic colour palette. As far from the “girlish and pretty” cliché you could get, its style depicted the new modern femininity needed both in fashion and society.

For a young designer, Koma has already shaped his brands style identity- something that can take designers years to establish. Drawn to the ultra body-contouring silhouette, Koma has been able to craft pieces that truly define the female form. His ability to use contrasting panels, create intricate design lines within the garment and refine its shape is what has allowed him to jump so far ahead in the fashion game.

The SS16 show was a prime example of how he has been able to do all of the above within one stunning collection. He has been able to accentuate the female form through the use of corsets, belts and transparent contrast panelling. To achieve the “feminine” look, the shape of the garment needs to exaggerate the shoulders and hips and give the appearance of a nipped in waist. Koma has been able to achieve this look with the use of a dropped shoulder and bell sleeve, and swing skirts. ?The colour palette of this collection is of classic tones- black and white, a nude pink and tones of blue. In keeping with simple colour choices, Koma has been able to focus on the silhouette and of course the small details, such as the embellishments.

As Koma is so young and already with a brand that knows its place within the industry, it will be interesting to see where it goes, but also how the David Koma woman will grow and evolve.

Emma Ellen




Credit: Nigel Pacquette

What isn’t there to say about the KTZ SS16 Womenswear collection? It was fierce, it was strong and it was leather clad.
The idea behind the collection was that “everything is possible”, exposing the KTZ woman’s determination, sensuality and her imagination. Designer Marjan Pejoski drew inspiration from cultural references, which allowed him to combine the styles of 80’s post-punk icon Siouxsie Sioux, the African Mursi tribe and the futuristic film Blade Runner. All of these influences allowed Pejoski to create a style ‘that knows its past, anticipates the future, but is firmly grounded in the present.’
The garments in this collection were reminiscent of body armour. Shift dresses and loosely tailored coats allowed the attention to be all on the texture and details of the garments. In true KTZ fashion leather, PVC and mesh all made their way into the collection, where they were combined and layered. Silver coins were used to embellish the garments, from the fringing on the hemlines to its entire surface; it accentuated the armour-like image of these KTZ warriors. The monochrome tones of the collection moved onto tones of sand brown, where creased coats and boxy skirts and jackets appeared to be made of boxes and paper bags. This provided a nice transition in tone and texture, for models then came in shift dresses splattered in primary paint colours. This ‘art attack’ was visually and texturally alluring, as you just wanted to go up and feel the garments.
That’s what I love about a KTZ collection – you can look and you most certainly want to touch. Their ability to arouse all the senses with their powerful and dominating looks, is what makes this brand’s future so right now.

Emma Ellen




‘Because it’s just joyous – and it should be! It should be wearable, it should be fresh – and ultimately, [be] clothes to make girls feel good.’ These are the words of Alice Temperley, the mind behind her visionary label Temperley.

These words not only describe the mood of the collection, but how fashion should be in general. Temperley wins point not just for creating a collection that makes you want jump on the next plane to Cuba, but for setting realistic standards in fashion.

For the spring/summer season, Temperley set her sights on the sultry and decadent Havana. ‘The romance and decadence of Cuba and [a] bygone era… Making fashion that is ultimately wearable and also transports you at the same time.’
The eye-popping collection was a refreshing change from the general look of the week, but still kept in line with the brand’s bohemian aesthetic. Dresses of cotton and silk seemed to float around the models as they glided down the catwalk, beautifully embroidered and appliqued with tropical flower and bold palm leaf motifs. The same motifs were used as print on many garments, in brilliant shades of blue, green and yellow.

Overall the collection was easy. It felt relaxed and comfortable, which is something every single woman looks for. Temperley have been able to deliver by combining style and comfort, which is something that is not easily or often done.

Emma Ellen


Holly Fulton backstage 01





Holly Fulton backstage 03


As London Fashion Week rolls into town, FAULT are reporting from the key shows you need to know for SS16. Read our curated guide to the season here on the blog and Follow FAULT Magazine on Instagram and Twitter for live updates.


Fashion East


Fashion East celebrated a huge milestone this season; the graduate initiative launched by Lulu Kennedy turned 15! And they celebrated in style, with three eclectic collections from designers Caitlin Price, Richard Malone and This Is The Uniform.

Price’s collection was inspired by that age-old quandary of what to wear when dressing up to go out. The collection blended the boundaries of day-to-night dressing, with 90s-inspired tracksuits and cargo pants placed beside ballgowns in matching shades of pastel pinks and blues. Full silk skirts were paired with bandeau crop tops, bomber jackets and crisp white trainers for Price’s signature edgy take on formalwear, with an undeniable 90s girlband feel.

This Is The Uniform, from Jenna Young, gave us a presentation inspired by Young’s Blackpool upbringing, in a youth club set-up with models tucking into McDonalds and chocolate bars and playing ping-pong throughout. The collection was heavily inspired by sportswear and offered up sleek, simple shapes in a clean colour palette of crisp white and crimson, mixing sheer fabrics with shiny satins and even a few string vests!

Conversely, stripes and frills in a zingy citrus colour palette were the order of the day for Malone’s collection. His presentation showcased a range of distinctive, oversized silhouettes, with gargantuan frills in monochrome stripes throughout. Malone cited Argos uniforms and aprons as his inspiration, with tabard-like pinafore dresses and wide-cut shirts in shades of orange and navy making their mark in the presentation.

Laura Hudson




Palmer-Harding served up a stunning sophisticated collection for SS16, dominated by the directional shirts that the brand is renowned for. This womenswear presentation saw the humble shirt expanded and moulded into an exciting and contemporary collection, filled with interesting shapes and stunning details.

Sleeves of classic white shirts were slashed and cuffs and collars were oversized for emphasis, while some shapes were lengthened and extended into sleek but structured shirt dresses in cotton and linen, with Swarovski crystal embellishment and sheer panels thrown into the mix too. Shirts were paired with silver-gilded leather skirts in powder pink and burgundy, or with leather jackets slung over the shoulders, complete with slashed open sleeves and brass hardware.

Palmer-Harding’s show was inspired by the work of artist Nathan Peter and his idea of distilling materials into their purest form; linens and cottons were dethreaded for a stunning tasselled effect, to form stripes lifted from the fabric, rather than woven into it, while leather garments were gilded by hand. The show was described as a “celebration of the human touched, crafted and artisanal skill”, which it delivered in typically elegant fashion.

Laura Hudson


Mother of Pearl


Mother of Pearl served up a whimsical collection packed with nostalgic touches for SS16, mixing cutesy vintage influences with the modern sports luxe vibe that the brand is so well known for.

The collection offered up a subtle, sophisticated colour palette of navy, white, sky blue and blush, with splashes of vibrant mustard, punchy coral-red and sleek monochrome throughout. Models showcased a collection filled with contemporary twists on retro favourites; pie-crust collars, straw boaters, Victoriana vibes and ruffles and frills aplenty blended with sleek, slimline shapes to create a collection that reminded us at times of Pippy Longstocking and Mary Poppins, with some Barbarella boots thrown in for good measure.

We loved the schoolgirl pinafores in sky blue and gingham, while the pale colour palette screamed sunny days in spring, all blue sky and blossom. As for standout pieces, we can see the simple blush pink coat becoming a season staple come 2016!

Laura Hudson


Julien Macdonald


Credit: Nigel Pacquette

If we can say one thing about Julien Macdonald, it’s that you’re always guaranteed a real show. And the notoriously decadent designer did not disappoint with his SS16 collection, as he presented a typically lavish women’s collection, as well as sending men down the runway for the first time.

Macdonald’s womenswear collection was inspired by the idea of a futuristic warrior woman, with a metallic colour palette and intricate beading acting as their armour. There was also a touch of the Grecian goddess about it, with gladiator sandals and draping shapes aplenty. Laser-cut printed silks added a welcome explosion of colour to the collection, with dashes of buttery yellow, cobalt and purple making their mark among the khaki and charcoal looks sashaying down the runway.

No Julien Macdonald show is complete without a showstopping ballgown, and Macdonald provided us with several; although we particularly loved the finale outfit, an embellished white jumpsuit/ballgown hybrid. And Macdonald’s menswear debut didn’t disappoint either, with a similarly Grecian warrior theme for the boys; printed silks and slashed knits were paired with those gladiator sandals – and navy toenail polish!

Laura Hudson


Markus Lupfer


A ‘natural’ progression from AW15, Markus Lupfer transformed last fashion week’s ‘enchanted forest’ models into a meadow of flowers with a hint of Mexicana for SS16. Floral, black lace tank tops and boxy blouses were matched with black organza dresses and bomber jackets with embroidered wild flowers for a less girlie take on the stereotypical spring/summer trend. The designer’s signature cheekiness was present in a comic book style illustrated print of a Mexican wrestler on peg trousers and t-shirts. Youthful, casual silhouettes of skater dresses, spaghetti strap vest tops and capris paired with starry eyed sunglasses were full of fun and flirtiness but the Markus Lupfer girl is never naïve or quaint.

Olivia Pinnock


Holly Fulton


Sitting on the benches of the catwalk space and waiting for the Holly Fulton show to start at London Fashion Week’s new home in a Soho car park, we sparked a conversation about why the designer has perhaps not enjoyed the same level of growth as some of her peers. Maybe it’s a lack of funding opportunities, maybe it’s the handcrafted nature of a lot of her work that is harder to scale up but in a packed room that was buzzing with excitement, it was clear that Holly Fulton is an absolute gem to the London fashion crowd. As the show got under way, we were still filled with butterflies at the sight of a truly beautiful collection that Holly has so consistently offered since she debuted with Fashion East six years ago.
Fitted hourglass silhouettes were modernised with bursts of volume at the hem and elbow of dresses, classic blouses took creative office wear to new heights with heavily jewelled collars and a feminine colour palette of teal, purple and pink was punked up with a few select pieces in neon green.
The prints, of course, were a highlight. Collages of pinwheels, diamonds, starfish, tidal waves and flowers made the mainstay denim flares and jacket original and pencil dresses with glittering front panels that bit more special.
Taking inspiration from another feisty, beatnik female, this season Holly looked at the work of surrealist artist Eileen Agar to create her prints as well as the attitude of playfulness that’s matched with a strong will. Stomping down the catwalk in their Louboutin collaboration wedges, looking like non-conformist secretaries in their cat eye glasses, it summed up Holly’s desire to dress women as the most empowered and feminine versions of themselves and that’s what make her a quietly assured British fashion darling.

Olivia Pinnock




What I love about a Sibling collection is its energy. They have this ability to create a style that is fun and sexy, but never in a cliché way. Focusing on their SS16 collection, one that oozes grunge and glam, designers Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery found inspiration in the likes of Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin.

The collection itself was a take on classic silhouettes, which allowed the designers to focus on texture and print. Having built their aesthetic on the use of knitwear, it was no surprise when models donned brightly striped knitted and crocheted swimwear. What did provide a great contrast was the use of vinyl. Smooth compared to the rough texture of the knits, it added a sleek and sexy feel the collection much needed. Models wore leopard print slips, ponchos and one-pieces, which added that “Sibling” touch to the collection. As described by the brand, leopard print motifs and vibrant colours play an important role in their identity. However, it’s the hand crocheted poncho and maxi dress, with panels made to look like records that deserves the credit. Fun and edgy pieces, these are the kinds of garments that you turn to Sibling for.

This is a brand that continues to push the conventional boundaries of fashion. They create pieces that are exciting and challenging, always testing what we think we know. Which is the reason they have every single one of us coming back each season for more.

Emma Ellen


Faustine Steinmetz



The idea behind Faustine Steinmetz collection was distortion. Inspired by artists Joseph Kosuth and Salvador Dali, Steinmetz was drawn to their ability to distort the form and meaning of their object beyond its classic form. Whilst Dali physically distorted the form of his object, Kosuth would re-imagine his pieces, challenging the viewer to question their original meaning.

As a brand, Faustine Steinmetz focuses on creating a sustainable product that is spun, dyed and woven all by hand. They are known for reimagining staple pieces that everyone has, taking the garments original form yet, revolutionising its concept and transforming it into something that is unique.

Her ability to create contemporary everyday pieces is the reason why Faustine Steinmetz’s presentation is must each season. With regards to her SS16 collection, she stated that she ‘wanted to make the ordinary precious’, a vision that seems relevant to the brands identity. Models broke through walls in garments that had been stretched, pulled, melted and knotted, honing the idea of deconstruction. The starting point of the collection was denim, where we saw trousers and jackets intricately embroidered with green ivy, birds of paradise and gypsophila flowers. Then the collection transformed – we started to see the breakdown of this beauty. Denim became frayed and faded, and tracksuits made from ethically sourced cotton were frayed to a gossamer-like thinness.

To say that this collection was a mix of jeans and tracksuits is an understatement. Faustine Steinmetz has revolutionised the way we see everyday fashion, by allowing us to bare witness to a collection of intricate and timeless pieces that will stand the test of time.

Emma Ellen


Emilia Wickstead


Emilia Wickstead is the definition of modern femininity. Everything from her choice of silhouette to colour, transforms each collection that this brand creates.

The inspiration for this season’s collection came from George Cukor’s The Women, a film that explores the roles of strong, defiant and confident women. In Wickstead’s own words, it’s “the modern woman’s no nonsense approach to life” that she aims to represent.

The kind of woman we saw portrayed on the catwalk was the kind who plays on classic looks. She is confident and smart, but she’s not afraid to take risks. But more importantly what we saw in this collection was femininity with a little bit of zest added to it. Models wore voluminous skirts, flared trousers and tops with billowing sleeves. In true feminist form, the female figure was accentuated with the garments silhouette – slimming pencil skirts, dresses and coats nipped in at the waist. But what set this collection a part from others was the use of colour. Tones of golden yellow and pastel peach opened the show adding sass and providing a refreshing take on the classic style. The yellow and purple geometric print also provided the modern twist the collection would need. From the yellows, came the usual tones of pink, lilac and green, finishing off with a saturated floral print that screamed ‘I am woman, hear me roar.’

When you go to a Wickstead show, you know what you’re in for – a refreshing vision of what makes the modern woman who she is. Wickstead has refined this woman and the brands identity so much so that each collection is a beautiful spectacular to watch.

Emma Ellen


Fyodor Golan


Credit: Nigel Pacquette

Fyodor Golan’s SS16 collection took its cue from the world of Transformers, models of which lined the seats of the front row. The collection reflected this, but not in the way one might have expected. Instead, the clothes seemed to speak of the cyber-world, with digital flower prints in neon shades that popped against black and metallic backgrounds, rendered in duplicate as if copied and pasted from a Tumblr dashboard. The tailoring was experimental, with asymmetrical hemlines, cross-cut skirts, off-centre halternecks and scissored sleeves. It was this detailing that set the collection apart, taking the Internet influences (which can always feel slightly overdone) and breathing new life into them.

Will Ballantyne