Get behind the scenes of Studio Eclumes’ ‘Tribals’ shoot – exclusively for FAULT Issue 14: The Taste Issue. ‘Tribals’ was shot by Damien Krisl and styled by Rebekah Roy.
FAULT: Tell us about the inspiration behind your Fall/Winter 2013 collection.
Tadashi: The Fall/Winter 2013 collection tells a tale of exiled nobility, inspired by the splendor of the Russian Empire and the eventual fall of imperial Rule. I recently visited St. Petersburg, Russia, and was most impressed by the city itself, shrouded in the darkness of winter. The resplendent Winter Palace shone brilliantly against the shadowy backdrop of a darkened sky. It was a time fraught with turbulence. Exiled royalty exiled to Siberia, disguised in peasant clothing. Inspired by this escape, this collection marries aristocratic style with folkloric details.
What are your best moments and biggest achievements in the last 30 years? What moments were more challenging?
The first time I showed at New York Fashion Week in 2007 was a challenging yet proud moment. I felt that showing in New York would raise the brand image as well as expose us to international customers and editors, which is important to our growth. Another special moment was seeing Best Supporting Actress nominee Octavia Spencer in my dress at last year’s Academy Awards red carpet – and at the podium when she won the Oscar!
What inspired and motivated you to release this capsule collection? What do these looks mean to you?
We reissued and modernised six iconic dresses from the archives. These dresses were carefully chosen and hand-picked to be reproduced as they define a signature look: the tiered dress. I still use this technique to this day in my designs, and women appreciate the way the lines drape over and flatter the body. I wanted the capsule collection to represent colours from the current Spring 2013 collection but in silhouettes that span the past 30 years.
*FAULT MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE FOR DELIVERY WORLDWIDE*
Photographer: Jenny Brough
Stylist: Victoria Sekrier
Model: Flo Dron @ Select Model Management
Make Up: Marco Antonio using Dermalogica Skin Care and Mac Pro makeup
Hair: Paul Donovan using Bumble and Bumble
Retoucher: Monica Chamorro
Stylist Assistant: Vanessa Assogba
Lighting equipment from The Flash Centre & Elinchrom – theflashcentre.com
‘PAPER DREAMS’: An exclusive menswear editorial produced by FAULT, featuring standout pieces from the Issey Miyake Men Spring/Summer 2013 collection.
Editorial teaser and fashion film follow:
All clothing exclusively from Issey Miyake Men Spring Summer 13 Collection
Photographer: James D Kelly
Stylist: Kristine Kilty
Film Director: Julian Ruiz
Grooming: Stephen Hamilton using MAC & Paul Mitchell
Set Design: Charmaine Dresser
Fashion Assistant: Arndt Stobba
Photography Assistants: Aidan Porter & Dieter Brandenburg
Filming Assistant: Ricardo Mcleary-Campbell
Set Design Assistant: Bethan Smith
Models: Chris Arundel @ Storm, Ben Palmer @ Select
*FAULT MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE FOR DELIVERY WORLDWIDE*
Video courtesy of Killer Pixel Films
Music: ‘Slow Burning Bliss’ by Dead Times
From Vogue to Playboy and from Chanel to Agent Provocateur, it seems that there isn’t a magazine cover or fashion campaign in the world that has not, at one time or another, featured the remarkable Daisy Lowe. She is, arguably, as close to a genuine supermodel as this decade has ever truly known. Up until now, at least, with Cara Delevigne currently enjoying the fickle focus of the fashion world. Daisy’s enduring popularity, however, makes the majority of today’s ‘bright young things’ seem as transient as sunshine during a British Spring. Still only 24, the plain-spoken North Londoner can already boast a CV to match the best there has ever been. What’s more, she can still claim to be at the very top of her game, as recent work for the likes of Stephen Webster and Tommy Hilfiger attests.
FAULT: What has been your favourite experience so far?
Daisy: Working with Pat McGrath for the first time was an amazing milestone, as was shooting Italian Vogue with Steven Klein. He is such a genius with a complete heart of gold. I was 17 when I first started shooting with him and he really made me feel very comfortable in my own skin and celebrated my curves.
Walking for Vivienne Westwood for the first time was massive too. It was her first show back in London after years of being in Paris. She walked in when they were doing the makeup and just went, “What’s going on here? They need to look more, more, more something” , and then just said, “Can I take your pallet?” to this poor little assistant and just grabbed it, dug her hands into it and came over to me and put it all over my face!
You often speak about having a healthy body image. What would be your key piece of advice to people struggling with this?
I think a healthy body image is really important. It’s really difficult because there’s so much pressure to be really skinny. My advice to young girls would always be this: if, when you look in the mirror, you can’t see anything you like, make yourself [like it]. Make yourself self-love. That’s the only way you can actually be happy. I had to start very small going, ‘Well, I quite like my feet’, and then everyday I had to find something else. Women are extraordinary creatures, and everyone should be celebrated for who they are.
*FAULT MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE FOR DELIVERY WORLDWIDE*
What kinds of people are your designs aimed at?
They’re generally aimed at all different types of women, often in the creative industry and the entertainment industry. I’m also starting to sell to brides, so it’s a combination of different people. I don’t want to say it’s exclusive because it’s for everybody, but it’s not really for the high street. We do get a lot of women in the music industries that come forward. My designs can be extravagant but there’s the ready-to-wear stuff, and then people think that’s extravagant! I don’t like to limit myself but at the same time I like to keep my standards quite high. I’m trying to keep it versatile. At the end of the day you never know who’s going to come forward; you’ve got to keep it open.
Is there anyone in particular you would like to see wearing your designs?
Oh yeah definitely, I would love to see Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Daphne Guinness… In the music industry I’ve had Lady Gaga borrow stuff, the stylist borrowed the stuff but it didn’t get worn in the end. Then Kim Kardashian has also been seen recently.
If you could sum up your S/S 2013 ‘Florilegium’ collection in 3 words what would you say?
Kew Gardens… 3-dimensional flower… and I would say earth colour. That’s a little more than 3, but I can’t sum it up in just 3 words!
What would you say was the main source of inspiration behind ‘Florilegium’?
It’s Latin for floral gathering basically. It’s something I always wanted to do. I love Kew Gardens and I wanted to experiment with nature, looking at the different plants and flowers 3-dimensionally. It was very challenging so I had to think and look at the shape. You have to be careful with things like that because it can be overdone. So it has to be done in a way that is appealing to the eye. Initially the inspiration came from the flower, palm leaves and just nature in general. I wanted to take that and use it in the design. I went into the Darwin archive and read about his scientific studies on the flower. At certain times of the day its growth is affected by the sun. It’s really fascinating. The natural light and the way it affects the colour, the growth and the change of that plant is very interesting. Then I was looking at Makoto Muryama’s blueprints, almost like a DNA, and it was incredible what he was doing with the flowers.
Were there any particular flower shapes that you wanted to recreate?
Not really, I left my mind open. I looked at colours and I looked at the inside of flowers around the stamen and the stain on the petals. It’s amazing how nature can create that. It goes down to shape and the delicateness of the plant and putting it all into one.
How have you maintained your signature structured styles within the collection when the nature of the concept is so feminine and serene?
Everyone was doing this draped, very simple kind of dress, garment, blouse, whatever… and for me, I like to throw in a shape to it. I think that I’m always going to have a twist to the clothes, there is always going to be something that’s different to it as opposed to it just being straight. And you’ll see that with all my work. Even with the smaller A/W collection there is volume and shape to the garment because when I see things I see them 3-dimensionally. Tailoring is very important because the garment needs to fit beautifully. All the pieces are tailored to the body. Every designer has a signature style, but it’s important to keep the flow because if you change it dramatically then it throws people off.
Do you have any favourite pieces from that collection?
I pretty much liked all of it, there were criticisms but you know what, in nature you get all different types of plants and flowers and it depends on personal preference. All things that grow in nature have their own unique beauty and energy. A lot of people liked this dress here:
For this blouse here I took inspiration from the mushroom.
If you turn a mushroom upside down, you have all those intricate beautiful pleats. They covered it up and I wish they didn’t!
And then I love this, it’s dip-dye.
Talk us through the styling and make up…
It was almost like a pollen stain you know, like if you get some pollen and rub it on your arm it leaves like an orangey stain. So that’s what we did. Then the hair was a bit wild to keep with the nature theme.
How have your designs and practice developed from your debut winning collection from Fashion Fringe 2010?
I think it’s developed tremendously. The main focus is the wearability of the garments but also the beauty of the cut as well as the fabric choice. I think it has become more modern.
You have been referred to as Vivienne Westwood’s protégé because you worked for her for 6 years…
Yeah I know, that is so not true. I love how people label designers, like you work for a designer then all of a sudden your stuff is exactly like theirs. No, it’s not. Vivienne has her aesthetic, Alexander McQueen had his aesthetic, I’ve got my own and I’ve got my own vision. We are all very individual and have our own unique cutting skills and draping. We all have our own unique approach as designers and dressmakers.
What other things can we expect to see from you this year? Is there anything you’re looking forward to?
I just won a bridal show in the dress category so we are starting to look at the bridal market because it’s a huge industry. But at the same time I’m continuing working on my business. I am planning to do something for London Fashion Week, but I can’t reveal what I’m planning yet. It is something different from the previous collections, so it’s moving on and progressing. It’s getting more modern and adapting to the environment and industry, without moving away too much from what I do, keeping the same aesthetic. That’s it so far, unless something else pops up and you never know.
Words by Joelle Thurston
Photography: Benjamin Johnson
Styling: Rivkie Baum
Make Up: Harriet Hadfield
Hair: Kazuki Fujiwara
Designer: Corrie Nielsen
We are pleased to announce that FAULT Issue 14 – The Taste Issue – is now available to pre-order.
Official release: 30/04/13
FAULT Magazine - the Taste Issue - proudly presents exclusive shoots and interviews with:
Issey Miyake Men S/S ’13 Collection
Rachael Leigh Cook
Plus a FAULTless selection of the best Film, Fashion, Music & Photography that reflects our own senses and sensibilities, our own style and taste and – most importantly – all of our very own FAULTs.
FAULT was established in London and that forms a core part of our aesthetic. To reflect this, the fashion content for this issue was specially curated by British style expert Tallulah Harlech.
As an international publication, however, we are delighted to feature some of the most highly regarded designers in the world today. In addition to an exclusive interview with Japanese born American designer Tadashi Shoji, we also showcase a unique presentation of Issey Miyake Men’s S/S 13 collection in our exclusive editorial, ‘Paper Dreams’.
This is your FAULT