London Fashion Week SS18, Backstage with Toga


Photography by Adele Baron

London Fashion Week SS18, Backstage with David Koma

 

Photography by Adele Baron

London Fashion Week SS18, Backstage with Antonio Berardi

 

Photography by Adele Baron

London Fashion Week SS18, Show with Ryan Lo

Photography Adele Baron

LFW SS18, Sunday 17th September, Day Three Highlights

     

Mary Katrantzou

To kick off Sunday off, an ‘idealised infancy’ was the theme running through Mary Katrantzou’s SS18 collection; a bright nostalgia trip that anyone from the 80s could understand. Colour-block panelling stood sharply against a backdrop of paint-by-number florals, iron-on Hama beads formed Katrantzou’s signature intricate digital designs and sequinned Lego block skirts matched perfectly with lace up jelly shoes. It was as if the she made her inner child to design this collection, only with the added feminine, athletic silhouettes.

Balloon hems and sleeves added volume to each piece, whereas sporty windbreakers, racer backs and scuba tops punctuated with toggles and go-faster stripes gave it that athleisure look and feel. In a world where we’re technology by tech, Katrantzou grounded herself in her childhood and revisited the building blocks that tasked her creativity.

Lizzie Griffin

 

     

Chalayan

Living in today’s digital age, everyone is entitled – the notion of self worth has become a concept directed by the opinion of others. Blank post-it notes were dotted on dresses and models circled the space wearing sheer veils and sunglasses – a reflection of how consumers miss out on the exchange of digital information.

As with every season, Chalayan’s SS18 collection was all about clean lines and linear silhouettes. Master of tailoring, this collection had asymmetric folds, abstract construction and a nod to the 80s power shoulder, only smoother for the modern age. This neutral show had splashes of sunshine yellow and demanding red; on the back of the checked blazers the fabric darted out like a cape, a playful way to add some volume. Ditching the runway, this felt more like an artistic exhibition; a breath of fresh air and a sideways step from commerciality.

Lizzie Griffin

 

      

Emporio Armani

For the reopening of the Emporio Armani Store in New Bond Street, London, only a spectacular show would do. Walking down the runway in a soft palette of purple, pink and blue, sheer pastels, this season’s show was a total celebration of femininity. Models stormed down clad in sea life prints in candy-striped colours, which transcended to a heritage series of tight blazers and loose tailored trousers with a sports-luxe feel – the outfit we’ll be styling into next season. Punctuated metallic trousers and devoré tops, this playful collection undoubtedly got everybody’s heart racing. Thoughts? It kind of felt like we inhaled a pastel explosion, oh and the checked out two-pieces were the things that every cast member of Clueless would thank you for.

Lizzie Griffin

 

Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell did was she does best and this season focused on proportion, bringing imagination and styling to the most humble of clothing. This contemporary collection was slightly reminiscent of school children’s uniforms, taking inspiration from utilitarian pieces and proving that fashion should equal functionally. With hair and makeup like blank canvases, models strode the runway in checked shirts, knee length of course, and black buckled shoes. The silhouette was simple with boxy-sleeved shirts worn under lightweight duffle coats, just with a sporadic oversized collar or wide trouser leg that attracted the eye as if breaking the school dress code. The collection was monochromatic apart from the flash of khaki that coloured the intermittent showing of socks and light knitted tops. However the reintroduction of boxers and bermuda shorts paired with navy blazers were worn by both men and women, blurring the boy-girl-boy format that you used to find in school.

Sarah Barnes

 

TOPSHOP

There was an undeniable party mood dancing around in the air at the SS18 TOPSHOP show. Inspired by the brands muse Kate Moss (who sat front row) and 90’s nightlife, each piece in the collection clashed in a truly fantastic way. Retro sliver mini dresses were styled with not much else, while snake print tops sat undress yellow lemon suits- right out for a music video. Texture played a hefty role as the models were draped in faux fur coats and pink satin bomber jackets. Leather trousers in shades of blue cleverly contradicted beaded tops and burgundy ruffled dresses, somehow all expected on the dance floor. The show closed with a glamorous parade of double denim, each model with a spray painted t-shirts with their name. This season’s concept of personalisation is available with the brands ‘see now buy now’ ethos at flagship stores, so we can all finally dress like we are in a modern day remake of clueless.

Sarah Barnes

 

Versus

Donatella Versace took to the archives to inspire millennials this season at the Versus show, with an eclectic mash up of western boots, frayed jackets and bucket hats. The female models black eyeliner was rebelliously smudged and the men carried over sized bags with graphic logos printed in an unavoidable font. Sharp black matching suits were lined with red piping and low-slung trousers resurfaced with cowboy style belts. The print of the season was a thin tartan that covered tight mini skirts and shorts, only to be interrupted by the interjection of hot lime green that coated bags and shoes, creating a wardrobe for stylist rebels everywhere.

Sarah Barnes

 

FAULT Weekly Playlist: elkkle

Melbourne artist elkkle is making waves there’s no dying that. The burgeoning artist has recently closed out a tour supporting Golden Vessel along to run alongside a feature on the fellow Australian’s single “Shoulders.” With all of this under his belt, elkkle is an artist that’s starting to bubble over the surface.

In anticipation of his debut solo EP, elkke has released a new single “Fails,” a track about the relationship between mental and physical health. Your ears and imagination will conjure up images of fragility, yet leave you feeling empowered with his strength of conviction.

We asked elkkle to put together a playlist of his current favorite tracks, and it’s clear that he has a wide range of influences. Check out his selections below and fall into a deep, deep groove that will carry you into the weekend.

Noname – Shadow Man

“This song is pure existential bliss. I love the thought of all these fantastic musicians sitting around the studio sharing their thoughts and experiences of death, and trying to paint their own cool picture of the afterlife and the world they leave behind. Makes me all warm and fuzzy and humbled.”

Lonelyspeck – Settle

“It would be understatement to say I love the music of Lonelyspeck. I’m really inspired by everything in here – the kick placements that toy with your expectations, the delicate vocals and thoughtful lyric of self-realization, the incredible sound design. Most of all what I love is that it all just sounds fearless.”

Aphir – Can’t Comfort

“Aphir is making some of the most unique music coming out of Australia. Her soft vocals bring a sensitivity made powerful by bold production.”

Apollo – Nobody (ft Jay Cooper)

“There’s something happening in LA, stirring and hidden, and this is the first glimpse.
Not much more to say. This track is huge.”

Galimatias – Won’t Forget

“I’ve never heard a song climax like this. Not to mention the journey that comes afterwards. It’s hard to stop this track from putting you right where it wants you – nostalgic, thinking about your crush and wishing they were there to dance with you.”

Leftenent – We Can Do Better

“I remember I was on a train in Sydney to a friend’s house (who happens to also be on this list) when I first heard this. The profound feeling I experienced was something I’d never had happen before.

Leftenent’s music conjures up imagery of vast spaces and vivid colors, yet somehow feels restrained – like it wants to let you down easy, and make you understand.”

Lupa J – Keep Back

“Lupa J’s esoteric sound is one you cannot find in any other artist.
She’s pushing song writing somewhere gritty and honest, while retaining pop undertones. Her blistering production that’s always striking to hear. All self-produced!

I’ve seen her live, too, and that is something special indeed.”

htmlFlowers – Chrome Halo

“htmlFlowers is making music that gives a voice to those that rarely get a chance to. Without putting him up on a pedestal, I just think it’s straight-up important listening. Besides that the lyrics are thoughtful and honest and the beats are as just as heavy.

Banoffee’s vocals hit that spot Banoffee is best at hitting: Standoffish, charming and unapologetic.”

Nico Niquo – In A Silent Way

“Silence is a part of music often misunderstood by artists and listeners as empty time. No sound, no meaning, nothing said. But oh boy does this piece say a lot with its silence, careful pacing and movement. Nico is an artist worthy of the tunneled eyes of history.”

Golden Vessel – Shoulders ft. elkkle & Mallrat

“Golden Vessel is one of the sharpest producers out there, creating sounds that are immediately relatable and fun to listen to, while still having enough bite and intrigue to keep lovers of sound design on their toes. He’s probably going to change the game altogether pretty soon. This track was so much fun to work on. It came together so naturally which is a testament to GV as a collaborator. Keep an eye out for his name in the credits of your next favourite car-trip track; ‘cause everything he touches turns golden (eyyyyyy lmao).

Mallrat is already changing the game, to be honest. A super talented writer and vocalist, she’s ahead of her time in many ways. Also has the best fan base I’ve seen.”

elkke Socials:
Facebook
Twitter
Soundcloud

LFW SS18, Saturday 16th September, Day Two Highlights

JW Anderson

For his eponymous SS18 collection, JW Anderson drifted away from the rigid format of his usual shows and turned to a setting that went back to basics. The guests sat on chairs coiled around a stripped-back rustic installation that translated through to the tone of the clothes too. This collection was a stark contrast to JW Anderson’s previous, more abstract shows, instead, this season everything was so much more simple and wearable.

They came in the form of towel-textured dresses, minimalist two-pieces, deep V-necks and peek-a-boo detailing that reflected a state of undress. As well as cropped bardots, bralettes molded around the breasts – a decon-recon look that portrayed the plainest form of the art of construction. Keeping in line with this earthy palette, stripes ran vertically down the body ensuring this was the designer’s most wearable collection yet. And what was held under each models’ arm? Oh, next season’s ‘it’ bag, of course.

Lizzie Griffin

Markus Lupfer

Maybe the city actually takes a snooze whilst the girl never sleeps, ever thought of it like that? Markus Lupfer has. This collection was made for the woman addicted to her social life; too busy to sleep and with enough off-kilter glamour to practically be a part of old-Hollywood. Bold pinks, popping blues and jungle greens, psychedelic 3D florals, rainbows, butterflies and prints of monkeys swinging from tree to tree – it really was a collection to get lost in.

Living every minute in HD, models donned print-heavy blouses tucked into poolside hot pants and black sheer acted as an outer layer over skirts to add a slice of naughtiness. Hems were cropped to the calf to show off ballet-wrapped ankles, and models reclined on print-packed chairs donning huge sunglasses as if they were about to catch a tan – in their hedonistic-fuelled lives perhaps this was the only moment they could rest their eyes. With the world constantly shifting around us, Markus Lupfer’s girls were the only ones who can truly keep up with it all.

Lizzie Griffin

 

 

Jasper Conran

This season Jasper Conran looked to the outdoors for inspiration, designing a collection that had a fashionable practically. The focus- primary colours of blue and yellow with injections of bright greens, ripe oranges and frosty pinks as the clothes played with texture and silhouette. There was an undeniable athleisure element as models sauntered the runway in colour clashing sandals. Layering was key as translucent tops were worn under boxy bomber jackets and paired with cropped knee length crepe trousers. Sunny yellow camisoles and slip dressed were kept warm under toggled rain macs in shades of forest green and aquatic blue. Straying from the loose shapes, co-ord sets and fitted dresses in light knits featured diamond patterns and linear stripes that enhanced the figure, altogether achieving the hard balancing game of smart-casual. So what has this collection taught us? Colour blocking is back and should adorn the clothing of stylish Londoners who don’t mind getting caught in the rain.

Sarah Barnes

 

Simone Rocha

Another season, another stand out collection, as Simone Rocha’s SS18 show was like watching eclectically dressed dolls walk the runway. White satin dresses were toughened up with chunky pointed brogues, showing us how to be stylishly feminine yet masculine simultaneously. Deconstructed lace skirts were contradicted by shoulder-padded jackets that belted tight at the waist, all monochromatic but simply made colourful by texture. Simone’s love of sheerness sneaked in as garments featured netted panels exposing delicate skin on the models legs but off set by chunky earrings and hair clips. We cannot fail to mention the display of dark florals that floated down the runway. Whether it be the large scattered black flowers that adored dresses or the micro florals in buttery yellows and raw reds that covered sleeves, it is the newest trend to wear- topped off with a oversized laced collar so that you are truly one of Simone Rocha’s real life dolls.

Sarah Barnes

 

Ports 1961

Ports is well known for its sleek cuts and low key palette that is all wrapped up in a sharp cosmopolitan style. This season experimented with fringing and stripes in a collection that made us want to update our office wear instantly. Ports approached suiting in a serious manner, offering up an emerald green three-piece that showed off tailoring off to its best. Pleated skirts in crisp whites and yellows were styled with colour-coordinated tops and over sized pointed collars that pulled attention to the models necklines. T-shirt dresses were neatly covered in Mondrian style stripes in hues of yellow and blue, while the white office skirt was reborn in sheer fabric with thick checked fringing. Proving that what you wear to the office can be relaxed yet smart and that you cant go wrong with a pair of bold tasselled flats.

Sarah Barnes

London Fashion Week SS18, Backstage with Nicopanda

 

Photography by Adele Baron