FAULT issue 10 stars Far East Movement release new track: ‘Grimey Thirsty’

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Remember when the airwaves were dominated by ‘Like a G6‘? FAULT Issue 10 stars Far East Movement, the group behind the aforementioned 2010 Billboard Hot 100 hit, have just dropped a new song from their upcoming KTown Riot EP.

The track, ‘Grimey Thirsty‘, a trap-heavy party anthem, features a high-energy verse by YG. When asked about the recording process for the song, Far East Movement member Kevin Nish said, “When we were in the studio with Rell [Central-American EDM producer] working on the Murder Was The Bass project, we were just messing around and slowing down all the 150bpm trap tracks we had to 100bpm. The drums snapped in a different way that reminded us of some old school MOP energy that our fans could really rock with.”

The group has started to slowly unveil the tracklist for KTOWN Riot with previous releases such as ‘Bang It To The Curb’ and ‘The Illest’, which featured Riff Raff.

Can’t wait for the full EP? You’re in luck; the wait isn’t too long. KTOWN Riot has an official release date of October 28th. The group is currently on their Rager Nation tour and recently played for eager fans in Australia.

Words: Vanessa Willoughby

“Children of the State” – EXCLUSIVE EDITORIAL FOR FAULT ONLINE

 

Coat: Lulu Liu Swimsuit: Bordelle Shoes: Sam Edelman Earrings: Noemi Klein

Coat: Lulu Liu
Swimsuit: Bordelle
Shoes: Sam Edelman
Earrings: Noemi Klein

Dress: Boudicca

Dress: Boudicca

Left Top: Lulu Liu Shorts:  Stylestalker  Shoes: Sam Edelman Nose Piece: Olga Noronha  Ring: Noemi Klein  Left: Jacket: Boudicca  Bra: Elle Macpherson Intimates macphersonintimates.com.

Left
Top: Lulu Liu
Shorts: Stylestalker
Shoes: Sam Edelman
Nose Piece: Olga Noronha
Ring: Noemi Klein
Right
Jacket: Boudicca
Bra: Elle Macpherson Intimates

Top: Lulu Liu

Top: Lulu Liu

Top: William Wilde Skirt: James Lakeland Earrings: Noemi Klein

Top: William Wilde
Skirt: James Lakeland
Earrings: Noemi Klein

Jacket: Boudicca Bra: Elle Macpherson Intimates Shoes: Gina Rings: Noemi Klein  Ear Cuff: Yael Saloman

Jacket: Boudicca
Bra: Elle Macpherson Intimates
Shoes: Gina
Rings: Noemi Klein
Ear Cuff: Yael Saloman

Left: Dress: Vivienne Westwood Anglomania  Cape: Boudicca  Shoes: Gina  Earrings: Vivienne Westwood  Right Coat: Katherine Hooker Bikini top: Bordelle  Skirt: Boudicca Belt: Boudicca Shoes: Gina Earrings: Noemi Klein Right Ring: Noemi Klein Left Ring:  Sonal Whiplash Ankle Highs: Wolford

Left:
Dress: Vivienne Westwood Anglomania
Cape: Boudicca
Shoes: Gina
Earrings: Vivienne Westwood
Right
Coat: Katherine Hooker
Bikini top: Bordelle
Skirt: Boudicca
Belt: Boudicca
Shoes: Gina
Earrings: Noemi Klein
Right Ring: Noemi Klein
Left Ring: Sonal Whiplash
Ankle Highs: Wolford

 

Photographer: Phil Hewitt

Styling and Creative Direction: Michael Miller

Hair: Andrea Martinelli using Alterna

Make­up: Maria Vittoria Bortolussi using Nars

Production: Ross Forsythe

Models:

Sienna King @ Tess Management

India Tuersley @ Tess Management

Megan @ Models 1

Emma S @ Models 1

THE MADDEN BROTHERS – TASTER FROM OUR EXCLUSIVE SHOOT FOR FAULT ISSUE 19

 

 

The Madden Brothers were shot in London by photographer Miles Holder exclusively for FAULT Issue 20 Click here to order your copy of this issue!

The Madden Brothers were shot in London by photographer Miles Holder exclusively for FAULT Issue 19
Click here to order your copy of this issue!

 

FAULT Magazine Issue 19the Millions Issue will feature instantly recognisable rock siblings the Madden Brothers inside its Men’s section. Fresh from their reincarnation as a double act after their successes as founding members of Good Charlotte, Benji and Joel have released a new album – Greetings from California – under their own name.

FAULT: Why have you decided to fully focus on the Madden Brothers project?

Benji: I think it was a natural progression… it would be easy to sit back and say “we can go around the world and get paid just doing stuff we’ve done for years “– but it’s not fulfilling. I want to make something new and relevant to now, and that was where the real desire was – that’s what we set out to do with this record.

Joel: [When we started Good Charlotte, aged 16] we were kids making music about shit we were going through. Well, we’re not going through that any more – I’m married with two kids and we’re living life… We’re full-grown so we have to make music which is relevant to our lives now.

 

Miles Holder

Interview by Kevin Lyster

 

FAULT: What direction do you see Madden Brothers going in with Greetings from California and beyond?

Benji: When people heard ‘We Are Done’, most said, “Who is this?!” It doesn’t sound like anything we’ve ever released. It can go anywhere we want it to – we were talking about it recently, one of the things we’ve always loved doing is harmonies – it’s one of the things people remembered about Good Charlotte – so we decided we were going to do it properly. We worked a lot with Pharrell on the record – we wrote two songs on the record with him – he really gets the vision and supports it. Three years ago, when we decided to do this Madden Brothers thing, we told him how we wanted it to be and he was like, “Yeah the Eagles, I can see that shit.” He’s a visionary and then we started writing songs [together].

Joel: We listened to The Beach Boys, The Eagles and then, as teenagers, Sublime and then Dre’s Chronic and all these hip hop records – we’ve been in California for 10 years and while we are from the East Coast, it was [always] our dream to get to California.

Miles Holder

 

FAULT: What brought you to the decision to split the album into two sides?

Joel: The thing that brings both sides together is that California vibe. Whereas one side is more Phil SpectorBrian Wilson, the other side feels like The Eagles, Steely Dan, Steve Miller Band – it’s a trip but it oddly works!

 

The Madden Brothers’ debut single ‘We Are Done’ and album ‘Greetings From California’ are both out now on Capitol Records.

FAULT MAGAZINE ISSUE 19 – THE MILLIONS ISSUE – IS AVAILABLE TO PRE-ORDER NOW

 *FAULT MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE FOR DELIVERY WORLDWIDE*

…Or get your copy digitally via Zinio! 1 year’s subscription = just £14.40

Meet The Dove & The Wolf

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By Corrina Gramma

The Dove and The Wolf are two French girlfriends who started to play music together at age 14. They came to FAULT’s attention through Nowness that recently shared Lou + Paloma’s The Words You Said music video directed by Zack Spiger and featuring models and actors Paul Boche and Jessamine Bliss Bell. A special thanks to Paloma’s mother for matching these two souls together and to fashion designer Gaby Basora + singer Rachael Yamagata who sort of boosted up their music career… Meet the dove, Paloma Gil, and the wolf, Louise Hayat-Camard.

FAULT : Louise, Paloma, who are you ?

Paloma : We are both twenty-four and were full-time students up until 6 months ago – as we were offered to go on a 7 week long US and Canada tour, we both decided to drop out of school. I was studying cinema.

Louise : And I was studying architecture.

FAULT : School is out of mind, forever ?

Paloma : We’ll see. For now we’re taking the year off to focus on music, because that’s what we really want to do.

FAULT : How did you two connect ? Tell us how it all started please.

Louise : We actually met online, ten years ago, at age 14. I was living in Martinique and I met Paloma’s mother IRL, at a dinner party. We had a very long talk and I guess I somehow reminded her of Paloma so she thought it’d be fantastic to meet. But because I lived across the Atlantic, that had to happen on MSN messenger!

Paloma : Yes, we were only talking about music. We met two months later, in April 2004, when Lou was visiting her father in Paris.

FAULT : Where does this passion for music come from ?

Paloma : I don’t really know… I started playing the viola when I was 4, and then I got into playing the guitar when I was 13. I enjoyed it more cause I could sing along.

Louise : I started with the piano, and played it for years – I was taking lessons but I smoothly stopped as I was not really into reading music sheets… So at 13, I swapped the piano for the guitar. The first guitar I played was my birth’s gift from my father.

FAULT :  How would you describe your musical genre ?

Paloma : A friend of ours once described us as a ‘ambient pop-folk’ band, and I liked it. I think it is pretty accurate.

Louise : It is a tricky one. We don’t really have a specific genre – it is a mix of 1960’s harmonies and modern sounds.

FAULT : Where do your respective musical influences meet ?

Paloma : We listen to the same music. I mean, we first became friends because we were listening to the same bands…

Louise : And we spend almost all of our time together, so our references are very similar. We used to listen to a lot of British bands but most of the music we listen to now, is american. We listen to everything… From Boyz II Men to Grizzly Bear, Sharon Van Etten, James Blake.

Paloma : And Beyoncé !

FAULT : What is on your mind at the moment ?

Louise : I recently went to see Phox live – they gave such a generous performance, it was magical !

Paloma : Blake Mills’s new record just came out and I have been listening to it a lot… We also went to see Lauryn Hill a few days ago. It felt amazing to immerse ourselves in her music again.

FAULT : Why did you pick an English name for your French band ?

Paloma : Lou woke up one day and said she had a dream about us being called The Dove and The Wolf. It felt right.

Louise : Paloma is Spanish for « dove » and people call me « Lou » which is almost « Loup », « wolf » in French.

FAULT : And do you think it suits both of you in the end? Paloma being the dove and Louise, the wolf…

Paloma : I think there is a little bit of both in each of us.

FAULT :  Woodstock, NY vs. Paris : was it more inspiring to record in NY ?

Louise : I’m not sure whether or not it was more inspiring to record in NY, it was just a very different experience. One thing is for sure, we enjoy recording in houses surrounded by the woods! We recorded our first EP (4 tracks) two years ago in the countryside two hours away from Paris. We packed the car with a bunch of instruments and recording equipment that we borrowed from friends and we locked ourselves in for ten days to make music. And six months ago, we went up to Woodstock, NY, to record a full album. It was such an incredible experience. We’re only releasing two of the songs we recorded because right now we do everything ourselves, from A to Z, and it would’ve been difficult to mix, master and press a full record all by ourselves. It will be our first full album and we want to do it the right way. We’re hoping to release it with the help of a label ; we will see after touring with Rachael Yamagata what is next for us.

FAULT :  How did you meet Rachael Yamagata?

Paloma : We met Rachael two years ago after she played in Paris and we had a mutual crush on each other. We kept in touch and she invited us to sing with her in NYC a few times when we were visiting. When she heard that we were going to record an album in Nashville, she said there was no way we’d go there and that we were to record in her home studio in Woodstock, NY. No question asked! So we did, and it was amazing!

FAULT : I read a piece about you and your very first video Springtime through the New York Times blog. Nice for a young French duo…

Paloma : We collabotared with Gaby Basora, the fashion designer for Tucker, for our Springtime video. The deal was to make a promotional video for her new collection and in exchange we’d have a music video for our new track. It was shot at Far Rockaway, in Queens. It was a lot of fun. The director had planned that I would be driving a car in the video. Except that I didn’t have my licence! So in the video, when you see me arriving in a legit 1968 Mustang, I am actually being pushed by the team not to take any risks: the owner of the car was on set! (Laughs) Anyways, It was a fantastic experience.

Louise : The director, Yelena Yemchuk, is a wonderful artist. I feel very lucky we got to work with her. She also paints and does photography ; she has directed music videos for The Smashing Pumpkins before… So the combo of the indie New Yorker fashion designer + the young french duo + the artist/director caught the eye of the New York Times and they wrote a piece about it.

FAULT : And this post led you to acclaimed photographer Sebastian Kim.

Louise : It was an incredible experience to work with Sebastian. It was so easy to pose for him. We stayed in touch since ; the cover of our new record is actually an illustration by Corinna Gramma based on one of the photographs he took for the New York Times.

FAULT : Since your early beginnings, what are the best encounters you’ve made ?

Paloma : The Swedish singer Isabel Sörling who sang on two of our former tracks and the singer/guitar player of the band The Shivers. I saw him play at a house show in Brooklyn ; we talked and kept in touch. We asked him to play on our new album because he is just so fucking talented…

FAULT : You seem to be surrounded by a cool crowd of friends… Can you tell us more about your collaboration with Zack Spiger please ?

Louise : A friend, who works with Zack told me about him. I started watching all of his videos and I literally fell in love with his work. He has a very unique way to film music, I’m not sure how he does it but it is magic! And I find it so amazing that he uses film only. We both really support that.

Paloma : About a year ago, we met up and started talking about working together. When we got back from Woodstock, we played him the rough mixes, and he picked The Words You Said.

FAULT : How do you two write and compose ?

Louise : We write and compose together. Paloma sometimes comes up with a chord progression and I find a melody to go with it or vice-versa. It’s a bit like in our daily routine when we finish each other’s sentences… For the most part we write the music first and the words come along.

FAULT : And the words naturally come in English…

Louise : To be honest, we don’t really know how to write songs in French!

Paloma : And besides the fact that we both speak english a lot on a regular basis, our musical background is mostly American, so writing in English feels more natural to us.

FAULT : Can you tell us about your Sofar Sounds experience please ?

Louise : I first heard about this series of gigs through friends. Our mutual friend Sophie attended a gig and she thought it would be awesome to have us performing at the next session so she introduced us to the Parisian organizer and he contacted us. We played in a beautiful apartment at les Abbesses. I had never experienced that before. An acoustic set can be very tricky but playing for people who were being very attentive, with no glasses being broken or doors being slammed, that was amazing.

Paloma : We had played at the Bus Palladium the night before so it was definitely different! And even if the audience didn’t know us at all, they were really listening to our music. Makes playing and singing a lot easier!

Louise : And when we played our sing-along song and they sang with us. It was a lot of fun.

FAULT : What if music wears you out one day… ?

Paloma :  It won’t ever happen !

Louise : For the moment we have no other aspirations than to share our music and I hope it will stay that way.

FAULT : What is your FAULT ?

Louise + Paloma : We are too cool for school !

 

Tour dates US & Canada, with Rachael Yamagata, October 2nd – November 18th.

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LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (3) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

 

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
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Preen went all kinds of sportswear on us this season, and by god, that’s definitely something we didn’t know we wanted. When we say sportswear, though, we don’t mean throw on your joggers and lets go for a hike, we mean good old, classic, American sportswear, where everything is clean and classic and simple, but still effortlessly chic and on the forefront of everyone’s mind. Heavy on the stripes that moved with the boy as opposed to ruining it (don’t worry, Thornton and Bregazzi wouldn’t steer you wrong with a stripe), and even heavier on the colours (black and white permeated, whilst hints of red, ochre, pale blue, and floral prints weaved in and out), the offerings from Preen for the new season have an element of seaside-courtside-tribal cultism about them, but in the most lust-worthy way possible. A mix of silhouettes, from body-con to billowingly repellant, has proved just how much Preen continues to develop since the brand was brought back to London. And what a perfect decision that was, right?

 

Mulberry SS15

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The second collection since the departure of its former creative director Emma Hill, Mulberry’s theme for this year was the English garden. The prints were inspired by delphinium, cow parsley and cornflower, making the pallet of the show rather subdue. Accentuated with leather, the collection seemed commercial with the design team clearly having their customer in mind and taking the words of “Ready to wear” to heart. The pieces were pretty and wearable though the overall impression was rather prim with a luxury feel.

Recently the brand seems to have been banking on the pull of celebrities, with Cara Delevigne designing a range of bags, a move away from previous Mulberrydarling Alexa Chung. And while the move to it girl Delevgine was certainly a logical one, it remains unclear whether this has really helped the brand move forward. It is easy to imagine someone like Kate Middleton in the new collection, however with Mulberry’s ever increasing prices one cannot help but wonder whether they are moving further and further away from their original customer. The Mulberry woman has certainly undergone a kind of transformation and it will be interesting to see how the brand develops once a new creative director has been appointed.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Sophia Webster
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Have any of you been into Cyberdog? If not look it up. Sophia Webster has created the ultimate clubbing inspired collection. The collection draws bits from different cultures. The bikini clad models held fear inducing poses while decorated with kabuki like eyes and white face paint. Bantu knots, dreads and box braids give off an African feel. The accessories on show were charming and colourful, speech bubble clutch bags with slogans on them and fruit printed fans. As well as net vests goggles and bright utility belts, the shoes on display included extreme knee high strappy boots, aztec heels, cut out boots and fruit decorated sliders.

 

-Deborah Ajia

 

Richard Nicholl

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Nicholl’s latest collection opened with a slip dress illuminated by fibre optics, which was an interesting start to what felt like an elevated sportswear collection infused with some casual dresses that could double as eveningwear for the right woman. Greys, whites, duck egg blue tones, a few blush pink tones and lots of metallic further pushed the sportswear aspects of the collection before moving into navy and blacks for the more elegant looks of the show. Transparency played a major role with Nicholl for SS15, which lend for a certain airiness to the collection. The evening wear Nicholl showed us this season was beautiful and had a simple elegance about them, which worked well with the more day-centric looks at the beginning of the show.

Overall, the collection had a wonderful range of pieces and Nicholl managed to dress his woman from day to night, somehow always making her look chic. SS15 felt very much in Nicholls’s comfort zone in terms of his choice of colours and cut, however the use of metallic was certainly a step forward for the designer. His ability to give us beautifully crafted and sharp tailoring never fails to make us smile.

-Charlotte Natter

 

 Marios Schwab 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Greco-Austrian Central St Martins MA graduate Marios Schwab is famed for his seductive little dresses featuring sheer fabric panels and form fitting shapes. His SS15 collection certainly featured his trademark dress but also easy tailored separates that epitomised summer in the city. Trench coats, sleeveless jackets, loose shift dresses and asymmetric hems in block colours of beige, white, teal and blue sat alongside monochrome blurred prints and cut out shirts to create a fresh and highly wearable collection.

Spaghetti strap dresses were layered over asymmetric long skirts, crop jackets with long coat tails and simple sheath strapless dresses with tie fastenings gave a stripped back look. The statement sheer gowns were still there, featuring heavily embroidered graphic panels, vibrant colour pops and metallic detailing but were an elegant feature alongside the tailored pieces.

Jenny Slungaard

 

Matthew Williamson

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

With a collection going back to the brand’s roots, the Spring Summer 2015 show from Matthew Williamson heavily featured floral prints, a bold colour palette, flowing gowns and sumptuous fabrics.

Inspired by photographs of Marie Helvin in David Bailey’s book Chasing Rainbows, the collection was reminiscent of 1970’s Palm Springs. Lounge suits sat amongst flowing gowns, shirt dresses alongside long sleeved cocktail dresses, silk shirts paired with sheer lace skirts and flirty crop tops with asymmetric hem mini skirts, creating elegant silhouettes.

Heavily embellished dresses featured shimmering sequins, vibrant embroidered hibiscus flowers, billowing fabric and luxe ostrich feather trims. A striking colour palette of oxblood, coral, teal, emerald green, sky blue and neon pops had the Matthew Williamson DNA all over it, proving to be a gorgeous, cohesive collection which will likely feature heavily across magazine covers next season.

Jenny Slungaard 

 

Temperley

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For SS15 Alice Temperley from Temperley London really stepped away from what the brand was previously known for, namely evening wear, and showed us a range of beautifully tailored separates and dresses. This is the second collection for Temperley since she fused her two brands (Temperley and Alice byTemperley) about a year ago and the designer’s collection certainly combines her two previous women seamlessly. Temperley’s woman does seem to enjoy power dressing with an androgynous edge, as we saw a range of suits in different colours ranging from grey to ivory tones and made out of various different fabrics come down the runway.

The inspiration for the newest collection, Temperley revealed in the supporting statement, came from the Japanses shunga paintings. This came to light in airy kimono jackets in intricate yet bold prints as well as the stencilled out layers visible under some of the jackets. The collection has a certain carefree, airy youthfulness to it, which made the collection feel like a breeze of fresh air for our summer wardrobes. The Temperley woman is certainly a sharp and confident dresser who likes to look glamorous without trying too hard. The sharp tailoring and attention to details in the collection were proof of that.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Paul Smith
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Professional and chic as always, Paul Smith brings his new collection to the catwalk with a bang. Fringes surprisingly pop up on tees, vests and shirts, these clean and smart outfits feature blazers, shirts, midi skirts, culottes, vests and trousers. They come in an array of prints and designs, from striped to plain and shiny to matte. The traditional colours of corporate wear are used with a dash of unconventional colours; blues, greys, reds and browns meet pale tones, oranges and greens. Sliders, heels and brogues are incorporated into many of the outfits. Shopper bags in a mix of leather and suede combine with the simple bracelets accompany the looks.

- Deborah Ajia 

 

Jonathan Saunders

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The first thought that came to mind when looking at the opening pieces ofJonathan Saunders’ newest collection was “Matisse”. His opening coat and trousers were adorned with cut-out pieces of leaves and bows which certainly set the tone for the rest of the collection by moving from much darker colours to a much more light palette as the show progressed.

Set to the rather eerie soundtrack of Under the skin Saunders’ woman was wearing a mix of no-nonsense pieces to much more abstract pieces later in the show, keeping the leaf inspiration throughout. The colours Saunders presented us with were quite traditional summer colours of tan tones, white and blues in different shades. And while many pieces reflected a certain masculinity, the tailored trousers and jackets, managed to keep a feminine aspect to them which Saunders expressed through the use of oversized bows and ruffles.

-Charlotte Natter

 

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LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (2) SS15

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

Lulu & Co 

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This youthful and adventurous collection brings the best of colour and pattern to the fashion medium. Exuberant and mischievous graphic prints are splurged over casual tees, shorts, dresses, tailored trousers, skirts and cute jackets. The shapes incorporated into the surface decoration include spots, lines, splodges and planetary symbols. The eye of Horus also pops up from time to time. Who doesn’t want the ancient Egyptian sign of royal power on their threads? No one, that’s who.

Models pose, their apparel exudes a sporty but flirty vibe, with items ranging from tight and sassy to baggy and potent. Oranges, purples, blues, greens, reds and yellows dominate the majority of the garments on display. This blend of pattern, tone, colour and print is challenged through the use and combination of the lot, each melts into one another and creates one solid and quirky surface design.  One major summer trend is monochrome and Lulu and Co have not left this out of their latest compilation, one of the most feminine pieces in the lot is an enticing low neck dress with an a-line skirt.

-Deborah Ajia

Markus Lupfer 

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We arrived at Bondi Beach for Markus Lupfer’s spring/summer 15 presentation. Of course not literally Bondi Beach – a studio space near King’s Cross on a cloudy London day in fact – but inside, the sun was shining.

Models danced, chatted and smiled around a VW camper van in shining metallics in vibrant purple and orange fluoro. Amongst the palm trees a beach bar was set up and the all-blonde model cast pouted playfully for cameras through their colourful, mirrored sports shades.

Further sporty touches were added with exposed zips running down tops and dresses and jewel embellished jelly shoes completed the fun-time looks. Wrap around, asymmetrical mini-skirts and loose, half buttoned down shirts were as relaxed as their beachy, free-flowing hair.

Let the good times roll!

-Olivia Pinnock

Sibling

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For SS15 the trio behind Sibling showed us a collection very much true to their quirky yet recognisable sense of style. The oversized boys atop their models sleep hair and a hint of red lipstick accentuated the collection’s playful and innocent side. Known for their knitwear Sibling presented us with some bold coloured graphic prints, flirty frills and the way to unusual evening wear. Of course there were some fantastic knitwear pieces in the midst of the collection but characterised by their delicateness and lightness. The collection was every street style woman’s dream being intricate, bold and yet super wearable. Brogue flats included.

-Charlotte Natter

Hunter

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When you think of the quintessentially British brand Hunter, you immediately think of boots, camping and festivals, key parts of a traditional British summer. This compilation of outfits is an extension of such and takes inspiration from the army, using dusky greens, greys and browns on masculine silhouettes. It’s a truly unisex collection with a mature feel. When bright lilacs are introduced to the collection, this is where it really gets interesting. The macs, waterproofs and shorts become much more engaging in style and colour. Graphic prints of black, silver and blue bring an almost 80’s feel to the otherwise drab styling presented. The final piece caught my eye the most; a psychedelic waterproof poncho dress.

-Deborah Ajia

 

Holly Fulton

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

The queen of ladylike prints didn’t disappoint at London Fashion Week as she opted for Mosaic-like flower shapes in strong black on white, grey and yellow. Far from flat, the collection also featured the strong print shapes in embellished beads for a touch of shine mixed with PVC strips and crop tops.

Mid-length skirts and thick crossover straps were elegant. Folky without being bohemian, the luxe wool and silk fabrics demonstrated great quality pieces that feel great to wear while the Eastern vibe of the shapes incorporated traditional elements with international appeal.

Block heel sandals and round sunglasses tapped into current trends with the styling but the womanly outlines made this a collection to last.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Antipodium

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Jean-Luc Brouard

Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Jean-Luc Brouard

There’s legitimately something refreshing when a brand showcases it’s new collection that encapsulates the idea of “ready-to-wear” – if your clothes have to be put in to stores in six months because of tweaking, it’s not exactly ready to wear, is it? Trust Antipodium, then, to present something that you could most definitely wear, right out of the presentation should you wish! It was an easy affair, the offerings for the new season; pastel shades of sorbet colours and citrus-y brights dominated, injected with the staple black and whites that every good collection needs. The silhouette, whilst minimal, was definitely for today’s girl – fresh lines, cool styling a quirks (see: shirts tucked in to waistbands and unbuttoned all the way, buckled collars under crisp shirt collars, and so on), and the unmistakably grungy way everything stayed together. Maybe it’s a new approach for Antipodium, and it’s an approach that paid off – from the dishevelled hair down to the sports sandals, everything about this girl said that she was powerful. And you don’t mess with a powerful girl – after all, if she’s a part of the Antipodium gang, she’s definitely going to kick you ass.

-Colin Dawidziuk

 

J.W. Anderson

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

J.W. Anderson’s collection for SS15 was certainly a step away from his previous rather dark collections and showed us a much lighter take on fashion. Layering dominated much of the collection in combination with wide-brimmed floppy hats made entirely out of black leather. The collection had a certain nautical feel to it withAnderson using navy, whites, and leathers (in black and tan) as well as showcasing stripes and gold buttons in several of his pieces. The use of leather in soft, tailor tops and waistcoats as well as the perfectly tailored trousers the designer send down the catwalk are a reminder of Andersons beginnings in men’s wear and his signature “Things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man.” This was maybe one of Anderson’s most wearable collections, however he continues to push and challenge his creativity and continues his exploration of fashion.

-Charlotte Natter

 

Nasir Mazhar
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The Nasir Mazhar show was a real step-up for the designer. The logomania for which he has made his name was treated with more subtlety than before (…it’s relative), woven into drapery, hung in panels and fixed in metallic inserts, whilst the colour scheme was rich with Byzantine jewel tones, flashes of neon and glitch-effect prints.
This cyber-luxe theme took hold across the collection, almost superseding the streetwear influence always so present in Mazhar‘s work. Models were styled with graphic make-up and headgear, with a vibe that hit somewhere between manga-videogame-empress and a techy Princess Leia.
The cut of the clothes took the collection to the next level and the drapery added a visual layer without losing the effortlessness and street influence of the beand. The simple crop tops of previous collections were embellished this season with corset detailing and structure, levelled by Lycra trains and stretch-inserts. By balancing the cheek of East London with nods to a more luxe aesthetic, Mazhar has given us a preview of how far his label can go.

 

House of Holland
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One of the problems with SS15 is that it is unleashed upon the city just as the seasons are changing, and as summer is becoming a distant memory. All signs point towards winter and yet, the collections are often designed with the beach in mind. Henry Holland seemed aware of this balancing act with his House ofHolland collection this season, presenting a vision of summer that overlaid hippie prints and colour schemes with clean, preppy silhouettes and separates. This was a show that spoke of a more appropriate (and relatable) vision ofspring/summer, somewhere between the East Coast-quirk of the Hamptons and a Seventies-based Indian Summer.
The prints were decorative and enchanting, with paisley and Eastern motifs amongst neon geometric prints that had a hint of Bridget Riley. There was a touch of Wes Anderson and his iconic Margot Tenenbaum in the candy-coloured striped polo shirts, Seventies vibe, side partings and kohl-lined eyes. Flashes of metallic added little to the collection but the blending of prints was refreshing and playful.
Holland does wearable well, and his prints are even better. With this collection, he once again knocked it out of the park.

 

 

Lucas Nascimento 
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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

Graduating from his usual spot at Rio Fashion Week, NEWGEN recipient Lucas Nascimento made a sophisticated arrival at London Fashion Week. Saharan minimalism for SS15 came in the form of clean cut silhouettes in bright sunset hues of orange, sky blue, navy and yellow. Soft leather made a regular appearance in loose shift dresses and collarless jackets. Off-centre folds revealed flashes of contrasting colours from the inside of garments and half-leg skirts layered over trousers contributed to the trend for asymmetry in this collection. Sheer palazzo trousers and draped tops made us dream of lounging in the hareem but modern detailing including drawstring toggles and cut-away sleeves made the show ultimately about crisp and contemporary fashion.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

 MARCHESA
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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Led by Georgia May Jagger, Marchesa served up a fairytale of stunning embroidered detail, luxe embellishment and frothy, whimsical seventies-inspired shapes. The house, focused on what they do best – high-end craftsmanship presented in a highly wearable red carpet dress.
With slightly oversized shapes, loose cuts and soft silhouettes, the Marchesa woman this season was a relaxed flower child, heavily embellished, with nature-inspired embroidered print and breathtaking beading that glimmered along the runway.
Looks of note were a short forest green embroidered dress, which although oversized made a uniquely flattering cut. Then a whisper of a delicately sheer, rose petal pink dress, plunging at the neckline yet demure on the bottom half. Expect fashion editors to be fighting over this one.

 

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Meet New Yorker contrabassist Aakaash Israni, DoM.

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Qasim Naqvi, Amino Belyamani and Aakaash Israni

I remember when I first found out about them. It was during the Winter Jazz Festival 2014 in New York city at Le Poisson Rouge. I was primiraly coming to see perform my friend Keren Ann for a little hour, where I unexpectedly met the French couturier Maxime Simoens and his Press officer Tomek Kolarski. We chatted for a bit until the next band… Red stripe done, I was totally washed out and went to the exit when I got curious about three guys playing new sounds in the pitch dark room with tiny blue spots lighting their instruments. I wanted to listen more so I stayed and I got trapped into their lawless universe… I rushed to the NYC Law School, a few doors down from Le Poisson Rouge, to buy their record and I played it five times in a row before sleeping. The New York Times, NPR Music, Pitchfork, The New Yorker, BBC 3 recently raved about them and now FAULT invites you to take a minute and listen to their haunting -perverse in a good way- music. Meet New Yorker contrabassist Aakaash Israni of the promising band Dawn Of Midi.

 

FAULT : Who are you, Aakaash Israni ?

Aakaash: I was born in India and raised in California. I never felt quite right anywhere until moving to New York at age 29. I started music in 3rd grade, mesmerized by Beethoven’s 5th symphony and Paco de Lucia as a child…. I grew up in San Diego, which is 2 hours south of LA.

FAULT : How did you connect with Amino and Qasim –the pianist and the drummer of the band respectively?

Aakaash : We met at CalArts as friends before we ever thought of playing music together. Amino and Qasim were in a trio with an excellent bassist named Sam Minaie already, so instead we played tennis.

FAULT : Who were your mentor(s) at school ?

Aakaash : The great bassist and composer Mark Dresser and the Master Ghanaian drummer Alfred Ladzekpo.

FAULT : What does DoM mean ?

Aakaash : Dawn of Midi was a phrase Qasim spoke once describing the music of the classical composers of the early 1980’s. It was sort of a non-sequiter in relation to the music we were making at the time (Our debut album First), which was freely improvised and sort of avant-garde. It made no sense. We had no idea we would make an album years later (Dysnomia) that would make the band name appear deliberate.

When we started we only made completely improvised music, so obviously there was no leader. Dysnomia, which leans heavily on the knowledge of African rhythmic concepts, has shifted this dynamic a bit. The album was composed by Amino and myself. Both Amino and I studied in Paris, but at different times. He was at the conservatoire for piano before leaving for CalArts, whereas I left CalArts to go to Paris and study music composition.

FAULT : Can you share with us an anecdote when writing/composing for Dysnomia, please ?

Aakaash : There was a lot of tension, Qasim was losing his father to cancer and was being given these incredibly challenging drum parts to learn and we had about 150 rehearsals before we went to the studio. By the time the album was recorded, our girlfriends had all left us, Qasim’s father was gone, and the hard times were only just beginning!

FAULT : Why creating/performing in darkness ?

Aakaash : This began at CalArts when we first met. I’ve always enjoyed closing my eyes at concerts and have always wanted to give concerts in complete darkness. I think vision dominates our perception and removing it enhances our experience of sound so when we first began improvising together I suggested we do so in the dark.

FAULT : What kind of music do you listen to ?

Aakaash : A lot of African drumming music -from Ghana and Morocco. Also a lot of pop music. I like to try and understand what makes pop music work on the ear the way it does. It is extremely efficient, it has to make you fall in love in three minutes.

FAULT : What are your latest findings in music ?

Aakaash : Shing Kee by Carl Stone.

FAULT : What is your dream collaboration ?

Aakaash : A music video with dancer Marquese Scott directed by David Lynch.

FAULT : What is your FAULT ?

Aakaash : I care too much

 

Dysnomia

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LFW SEPTEMBER ’15: DAY (1) SS15

 

This season, FAULT Magazine is out en-force at London Fashion Week (September ’14) to line up the new season Collections for review. Stay updated with the FAULT team via Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and FAULT Online to see the latest and up to date Fashion Trends for Spring ’15, live, as they happen.

 

J. JS Lee

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

Opening London Fashion Week, Korean designer JJS Lee gave us the modern woman’s office wardrobe for SS15 with her signature architectural minimalism. Exaggerated, peaked cuffs, high-low hemlines and stiff pleats meant serious business while sickly sweet buttercream orange and green colours avoided it becoming overly masculine.

Her first foray into prints were created from pressed flowers which were scanned and manipulated to make scattered, abstract petal shapes in deep blue that will appeal to easy-going style lovers.

The real stars of the show though were the bags. Square grab bags with acrylic picture frames crossing over the leather to create the handle were utterly desirable and yet understated. Perfectly complementing the strong lines of the collection, they gave the outfits impact and a futuristic attitude.

JJS Lee always manages to make androgynous look empowering without being intimidating or overtly sexy and SS15 promises more of the same to fill our wardrobes with wear-and-go pieces that still get noticed.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

Faustine Steinmetz
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The Faustine Steinmetz show, presented at the ICA, was a beautifully fragile collection; pale and ethereal shades of blue, mint, lilac and heather purple, and fabrics treated with a sumptuous subtlety. Fringing, texture and fraying thread meshed together to convey a frail and tragic-feminine aesthetic- Ophelia drowning in the water covered in old flowers and moss.
Yet there was also a clarity and contemporary twist to the collection; with trouser suits, masculine-tailoring and references to the Nineties revival that has now lasted so long with white tank tops, wet hair and a sensual androgyny. Denim was incorporated with incredible skill, contributing to the modernity of the show yet appearing almost as velvet in its shimmer and fringing.
There was an incredible biomorphic quality to the pieces presented, from the organic textures to the fragile suspension of the fringing and the natural roughness of the frayed denim. Faustine used this collection to showcase her promise as a designer and she came through, allowing us enough to piece together an aesthetic and be excited for her future.

-Will Ballantyne-Reid

 

Felder and Felder

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Nigel Pacquette

Nature’s the thing when it comes to this collection; a mix of popping prints and blank white canvases. Felder and Felder’s latest collection is aimed at the flourishing young woman without a care. Think holiday wear, Rivera holidays and beach cruises. Loose but structured garments make up this collection which include crop tops, short dresses and funky summer coats.

The first set of looks all feature tie dye like printing or metallic bottoms. The tie dye prints are reminiscent of leopard or snakeskin. Free flowing dresses are also thrown into the mix, some even merge different fabrics together: sheer white paneling connects with vibrantly decorated material. Natural shapes and patterns embrace flowing fabrics and long legs.

The light must always give way to dark shades, leather jackets, textured co-ords and elegant netting present themselves on the runway. Some elements scream cowboy; such as fringing on jackets, leather skirts and bold leather boots.

Glittering embellishments and garments soon take center stage. Shimmering dresses and skirts hug hips. Overall the collection mixes earthy tones such as brown, red, green and yellow with fun and comfy garms. The bohemian like freshness of this assortment of garments truly captures the true spirit of young summer.

-Deborah Ajia

 

Daks

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

This dream like collection uses pale and sheer tones to create an almost ethereal look on the female form. Intermixed with more casual and work wear based looks, some of the collection outshines these plain pieces. These very looks are quite contemporary, adult, smart and prim, but this elaborate and appealing use of organza and other sheer fabrics create a near futuristic look. Pussybow shirts that create an umbrella of material over the wearer’s crown. Leather and other shiny fabrics also arise throughout the show.

Blues, whites, purples and grays make up the sublime palette, most of the hues used are quite saturated and almost flow from one garment to the next like an alternate colour wheel.

Asymmetric tops, shirts, tailored trousers and midi dresses also featured in this collection. There is a delicious mac in a pearlescent white with a curved cape piece, which is definitely the showstopper of this show.

-Deborah Ajia

 

 

Eudon Choi 

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Prairie dresses and ditsy Laura Ashley-style prints gave Eudon Choi’s SS15 show a girlish, country feel. Cuffed trousers, frilled hems and billowing trench coats added to this vibe but true to the designer’s more structured tendencies, deep-V suit jackets and cigarette trousers toughened up the looks.

Some pieces mixed the pastel florals with stark contrast black features such as the backs of trousers or sleeves for something that drew a little more intrigue. Pinafore straps and buttoned up backs were also nice touches of detail.

Closing the show, oversized plain white and black shirt dresses down to the ankle gave the ‘pyjama style’ trend a new twist and with a little more styling could probably avoid making someone look like they were on day release from the asylum.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

 

Fyodor Golan 

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Miles Holder

Fashion and tech have always had their little parities. Not necessarily in the sense that clothes are one day going to be made of nuts and bolts, but then again, the Fyodor Golan brand might change that. Bringing back the heavy tech laden fascinations of the 90s in the form of vibrant neons and prints that you wouldn’t necessarily see in a collection (red poppies, perhaps; American football players adorned in orange uniforms in a scrum, perhaps not), the duo atFyodor Golan were certainly willing to show a new version of the Fyodor Golangirl, and, briefly, the boy, thanks to those his n hers looks. With kitschy-neo-rave pieces that really stood out – think metallic co-ords for the guys and gals, long strands of fabric skewing to the side in a fish tail effect adorned with neon strips of colour, and the various shimmering printed stripes – it was apt that the huge inverted pyramid behind the models was projecting a distorted, glitched live stream, which reflected the colour blocking reminiscent of those blocked standby screens on televisions in horror films; all of these little techno features made the awkward yet still intriguing silhouettes that shot away from the body as if repelled by some odd magnetic force even more pleasing. However, that’s not to say there is wearability – after all, this is a ready-to-wear collection. Maybe it’s time to take out the glow sticks – anyone for a rave?

-Colin Dawidziuk

 

Christopher Raeburn

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Photographed exclusively for FAULT Magazine by Chris Yates

The site of a plane crash in the jungle may not seem like it translates well as inspiration for a new fashion collection but Christopher Raeburn spun out another edgy and interesting show using exactly that..

Despite the repetition of styles – bomber jackets, loose Bermuda shorts, shirt dresses with sheer hems, structural parker coats and backpacks – each look had its own distinct personality.

The entangled ladder strips, hinting at ropes and vines, in bright khaki and black gave curves and texture to the sporty collection. Prints of maps and faded jungle leaves were muted to fit in with the military colour scheme of stone, black, and khaki but drew you in to observe them further. Square heat transfers that were jumbled on dresses and tops referenced plane control boards to complete the story.

A highly narrative set, preluded by overhead aeroplane noises, complemented Raeburn’s SS15 menswear collection presented this June to complete the story with a twist on womenswear that feels incredibly in touch with the current zeitgeist.

-Olivia Pinnock

 

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